: installing aftermarket sub and amp in my 01 Deville

02-09-09, 11:19 PM
I just bought a 01 Deville and its my first cadillac, i like the sound of the current delco system and sub but i need more kick. So i am going to buy maybe 1 10" or 12" sub in a box and aftermarket amp from craigslist or something. I have never installed or changed any audio things before so i have some beginner questions, i have done the search thing and think i have figured out how to do it and just want to get some imput on whether i have got it right or not.

So it seams like the easiest thing to do in this car is tap into the speaker wire that is going to the factory sub with a line output conector, and i only need a 2 way one if i have read the posts right, my question about this is, if there is a certain LOC that would work better or sound better than another, and suggenstions would be appreciated. Also will this LOC work as the remote wire for the amp telling it when to turn on and off?

using the loc will turn the speaker wires into RCA wires to plug into the amp, is that correct?

after doing that the only other thing i will need to do is run the power wire from the positive port on the battery under the back seat to the amp and wire a ground from the amp to the metal part of the body in the trunk.

any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.


02-10-09, 08:53 AM
Well you got the basics down...Yes, you're completely right about the LOC and it would best be placed tapped into the stock sub wires. Yes, use at least an 8 gauge power wire depending on the amps wattage rating, and run it to the positive battery terminal under the seat. At least an 8 gauge for the ground too and I would suggest fastening it to the bolt holding your back seat down seeing how everything thing else is painted. As far as the remote wire goes, I just stuck mine into one side of the ignition fuse located in the fuse box under the seat as well(I have a Seville so it might not be there), triggers the amp when ACC is on.

list of things you will need
-Line-Out Converter(LOC)
-at least a 3-foot RCA cord
-speaker wire
-power wire
-ground wire
-remote wire

hope this helps and good luck! It really isn't a difficult job in these cars thanks to the battery being where it is.

02-10-09, 11:30 AM
thanks thats helpful, I am buying everything today after work and going to attempt the install tonight.

when you say run the ground wire to fuse do you mean remove a fuse and put the wire in the slot then put the fuse back in holding the wire in there?

the amp i am getting is a 200 watt alpine v12 single channel, do you this 8 guage would be best for that or would 10 guage be enough?

02-10-09, 12:47 PM
Yes, that's what I mean. Pull out the fuse, stick the wire in, and plug the fuse back in on top of it. It has to be a fuse that is ignition related so the amp knows when you turn the car on. That was for the REMOTE WIRE though NOT the ground. The ground wire should be fastened under the bolt holding the back seat down, or the seat belt bolt works too. As far as the power wire is concerned, if you're only getting a 200w amp than I would think a 10 gauge wire would work just fine...

02-10-09, 04:01 PM
ok great thanks for your help

02-10-09, 07:19 PM
not a problem...let me know how it goes

02-11-09, 01:03 AM
Make sure to look at the rms ratings of the subs and not the max power. Find an amp that can handle the subs rms. Alpine is kind of costly, you could find a cheaper amp that is just as a good.

02-11-09, 10:29 AM
well it was a long night but everything seams to working as it should except for the remote wire, I put it in fuse position number 29 it's a 15 amp and the chart says IGN SW, when I turn the car off the amp stays on, is there a better fuse to use that will turn it Off when the car goes off?

Also I am returning the LOC I got from best buy cause everytime I restart the car I have to jiggle the wires to it to make sound go to the sub, any idea why that would happen?

02-11-09, 01:09 PM
I know a few people who like these LOCs.


There are also the JL cleansweep line, but those may be a bit more than needed for just a sub install.

02-11-09, 02:51 PM

I figured out the corret fuse to use for the remote wire now it turns on and off as it should, it was IGN 3 fuse.

Still frustrated with the LOC, it is the $25 deal from best buy grey cylinder with 6 wires, 2 of which arent in use i believe they are ground wires.

here is what it does, i turn on the car and the amp is on but no audio is pushed to the sub, i pop the trunk and the jolt from that makes it start working, the wire connections are all tight and taped up, if the trunk is already open to get it to start recieveing i have to tap the loc converter a few times and it starts working and works fine til i turn the car off again.

can anyone help with this, anyone experienced this before.

i do have the converter up next to the factory sub that is now unhooked from the stereo, is it possible that being that close tot he speaker magnet it messing up the LOC????

any imput i woul d appreciate,


02-12-09, 01:49 AM
What exact model amp are you using? Also, I don't think I'd use a LOC that best buy had. It's probably the same grade quality as their audio installs. I know someone who had one of their LOCs in a camry and it was crazy like that too.

02-12-09, 11:40 AM
get a new LOC and see what happens, the ones from best buy are usually junk

02-12-09, 12:10 PM
i bought on elast night from circuit city and it did the same thing also bought on from wal mart with the same result.

is it possible that the factory system wont work with the cheaper LOC's like that?

here is what it is doing everytime

if the car is off and i hook up the converter, when i turn the car on i get no sound from the woofer the amp is on and ready to go but no sound, and while the stereo is on if i unsplice and resplice the wires it works...but when i turn the car off and back on i get nothing. it has done this exact same thing with each one i have used.

maybe i'll try a car audio shop and see what LOCS they have

02-12-09, 01:59 PM
hmmm...i used to have my system hooked up with a LOC before I got my Alpine HU and it worked just fine. Have you tried just using one pair of pos/neg wires? You'll only need the one channel with your mono amp anyways. Wondering if maybe the slight surge of power at start up is causing it to short...

02-12-09, 05:00 PM
when you used your LOC did you comlpetely disconnect the factory woofer or just tap into the lines and the factory one still worked?

cause i completly disconnected it and i think not having that factory sub connected is messing it up.

02-13-09, 03:27 PM
well it works great now, the problem was that I completely disconnected the factory sub instead of leaving it connected and tapping the wires, I guess if the factory amp doesn't detect the factory sub then it just doesn't send the subwoofer the signal. So probably a rookie mistake and definately didn't think it would take me 3 days to get it right.

Oldman Cadillac
02-14-09, 07:28 PM
This is GREAT. I just installed my amp and sub. I had everything working and then had the exact same problem. I thought it was the overly priced best buy junk too. :) I knew this forum would come in handy. Thank you capital10 and others for the leg work.

02-24-09, 08:45 AM
i wonna do the same on my DTS 2004

but i dont no the ride box form my car?

and i wonna put a navigation in my car! i have the XM radio in my car.

sorry for my bad english im from europa Austria

02-26-09, 05:16 AM
I just installed Fusion 300d amp and MTX sledgehammer (thunder 8500) and it works fine but in the driver and front passenger seat you cannot really feel it at all, but you can see the mirror going nuts and sitting in the back seat you feel it a lot.
I used to have the system in a 95 cutlass coupe so i know what settings are needed on the amp to make it hit hard without going past the limits of the sub.
I have pushed the settings past my old settings on the cutlass and still barely felt in the driver seat but very prominent in the back seats.
Any ideas why this is? It also causes Auto Volume Control to increase volume drastically while sitting still.
2002 Deville DTS
Factory Bose Navigation

Qball Customs
02-28-09, 08:24 AM
well it works great now, the problem was that I completely disconnected the factory sub instead of leaving it connected and tapping the wires, I guess if the factory amp doesn't detect the factory sub then it just doesn't send the subwoofer the signal. So probably a rookie mistake and definately didn't think it would take me 3 days to get it right.

another thing you can do is put resistors in the wires and completely disconnect the factory sub. The resistors will make the amp think the sub is still connected.

03-06-09, 07:08 PM
One way to wire the remote wire is if you can get the factory stereo out. Splice the remote wire and that shoud work fine

03-08-09, 02:27 PM
o.k i may be dumb but how many wires go to the factory sub? if you hook up line converter? do you only hook up 1 side? left or right and which to amp? i have the same 2001 deville thanks

01-28-13, 03:20 AM
where the factory amp location, I need to remove it becaue it keeps distorting my door speakers and stock subwoofer

02-03-13, 04:43 PM
I set my subs and amp and try Errol for a minute but I think it shuts off when I turn the bass up too high. What could be happening? And when I turn the car off and back on it works again. I hooked em up with the stock stereo. And only have one set o wires tapped into the stock sub. Any suggestions? And also my CD player doesn't work any more after hooking them up, I have a 2001 deville