: Finally Getting a Rebuild 5.7
01-21-09, 11:16 PM
Hey guys, been awhile,
Just thought I'd let y'all know I'm getting my 5.7 rebuilt whithin the next couple months. I've had some bottom-end rattle, and since my mechanic told me to put heavier oil in, and it has been cold out, I have been getting all sorts of rattle. I'm also getting to the point where I don't feel like I can depend on my car for long rides.
After chatting with the selected rebuilder, we decided to remain with stock heads, since going with even used Vortec parts would almost double the cost of the rebuild. He said he could put in a towing cam, which would responsibly boost power. His business is building performance vehicles, and I feel comfortable that he knows what he's doing. I mentioned that if there were any inexpensive tweaks that could be done to improve reliability/power, then we should definitely discuss them.
So I cannot wait until the project gets under weigh. I will be nice to not have to worry about my wife driving the car or breaking down for a change. I'm also having the break lines and wiper motor replaced. I also need a new A/C compressor, but this might put us over budget. I have the new accumulator and associated parts installed, but compressors are a bit pricey. Maybe some of you parts gurus can hook me up??? It's not so much the price, but I have to stick to necessitites.
Anyway, wish me luck!
Good luck with all you are trying to accomplish. I am with you on the tight budget constraints. However, you might try ACKITS.COM for your A/C needs. I purchased a compressor from them for my 75 for about $140 including shipping. It is nothing to put one on then you can take it to your mechanic to have it flushed and charged.
01-22-09, 11:07 AM
Before commiting to your rebuild, I would look at the price of GM crate engines. Check a place like Scoggin Dickey. I think you will find that the brand new, warrantied choice from GM will be very competitive.
For example, check out THIS (http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/crateengines/GMPerformanceParts350ci290hpEconomyEngine.aspx) nice crate 350. 290 hp @ 5100 rpm and a solid 326 lb. -ft. of torque. $1950! There are cheaper ones, too.
"The 350/290 HP crate engine from GM Performance Parts delivers so much power and value that everyone should be able to afford a high quality GM V-8 without going broke. The 350/290 is an answer to those car crafters who demand maximum return on their money. But, just because it's affordable, don't think that it's a stone. The 350/290 delivers 290 hp @ 5100 rpm and a solid 326 lb. -ft. of torque at 3750 rpm. With those kinds of numbers, it's the perfect replacement engine for the millions of GM vehicles that shipped with a small-block."
Keep us posted....
01-22-09, 10:13 PM
Right! So, I'm guessing the crate engine comes with everything from the heads down? Would I have to worry about the intake or throttle body parts working with it, or would I be getting another L05?
01-23-09, 10:05 AM
They have everything from short blocks (re-use your heads/intake), to long blocks (include heads but not intake) to complete engines (carb/FI to pan fully dressed with all accessories). For you, I would suggest a long block and re-using your intake/TBI, and accessories. Just call them, tell them what you have, and see what the suggest. The one I posted should work, you just have to make sure that the intake bolt holes are the right version (straight, not angled). You can also try an aftermarket rebuilder like Jasper.
01-23-09, 05:58 PM
The crate engine mentioned has a flat tappet camshaft. I do not believe you will be able to use your knock sensor with this type of cam. You may have to purchase a knock sensor designed for flat tappet cams. They are totally different frequencies.
01-23-09, 07:12 PM
Great catch! I did notice that they do offer a roller 350 when I was looking at the choices...
01-24-09, 11:57 AM
I thought about getting one of those crate engines, but I decided to rebuild my own though. Roller cams have their advantages. Not to mention the roller cam crates are pricy.
02-16-09, 09:57 PM
Alright, re-build has commenced. We found some other things that had to be addressed. The oil-cooling lines were totally rotted and spewing oil, in addition to new brake lines, I needed front calipers and pads. The tranny modulator was apparently missing the center pin or something like that, and the front shocks are gone. But after that, the engine will either be getting rebuilt or replaced, depending on the condition of the old one. We were going to throw in a towing cam for more power, however, we decided for budget and fuel economy purposes to go stock. I can't wait to get it back. I've been driving around a '91 Accord, which is driving my wife and I crazy. At any rate, it will be great to finally have my car in tip-top shape.
02-16-09, 10:29 PM
Cool man, Good luck with it! Keep us posted!
03-11-09, 06:11 PM
Update: Ok, the car is basically done, rebuilt motor, new brakes, all that. Catch is, I still do not have it back after almost a month. The guy told me he could do it in a week, and he still has it. I'm getting really peeved about the situation. He PROMISED that I would have it today, but so far nothing. I don't know what the problem is. I have the money ready to give to him. GRRRR:rant2::rant2::rant2:
03-13-09, 12:28 AM
Alright, finally got the car back....sorta. I have to bring it back because something is screwy and I am getting pinging, and a strange zipping noise lasting about a second under moderate acceleration, followed by the check engine light, which gives code 43. I believe that is for the knock sensor.
Also, there were some section of brake lines that were supposed to be replaced that weren't. SO....It's all very frustrating.
03-13-09, 04:57 PM
lol, isn't it fun? I went through all the same stuff when I had my Cutlass' engine rebuilt. Then he screwed up the head gaskets somehow, so now they leak. Hope yours gets straightened out soon. :)
03-13-09, 09:30 PM
Sorry to here that, mine got a code 43 too. Cant think of what the zipping noise is. How is it at idle
03-15-09, 01:06 PM
I had him replace the knock sensor and re-adjust the timing, and the car seems to run fine. A bit rough at idle, but I'm going to run it a week and see what happens. I have a year warrantee on the motor. He couldn't fix the Turbo 350 tranny, as it has a shift kit in it, so shifting out of 1st is still rough. He estimated about $1200 to rebuild, so I'm probably just going to run it into the ground and buy an overdrive tranny. Didn't they make a TH-400 with overdrive that will bolt on? Brakes work much better since he replaced the calpiers/rotors. I am not sure if the brakes had been bled properly previous to my purchasing the car. At any rate, I'm pretty happy, and looking foward to the next 200k miles.
03-25-09, 07:14 PM
Alright, just an update. I had him look at the car again, and he said that the fuel pressure regulator is probably going, and that's why the car still hesitates. We thought the radiator was leaking, but I think we just had some overlow onto the radiator, causing steam. We are getting about 15MPG around town, which is what we used to get on the highway. I can't wait to see what we actually get on the highway. The car is running great. I had it loaded with people over the weekend, and it didn't bog down at all.