: Like my N* but



SupRNatural
01-19-09, 08:59 AM
:thehand: Before the veterans start their rant of look at the stickies just listen.

I enjoy my N*. It had a few quirks when I purchased it, and by giving it some minor adjustments and some old school tricks of the trade it is running like a champ that it was intended to be.

First I have an oil leak. I have not put it on a lift as yet. What I have seen is the frontal valve cover hose seems to pull out of the valve cover. You push it in it pushes out :confused: I have given it many WOTS since I purchased it. The SES light has been out for a while now. I did notice the black puff when punching it from the dig, and carbon on the exhaust tips (car was owned by an older gent). Maybe a touch of oil too. I have the smell of oil after stopping at a light so I know it is leaking .

I believe my TB needs a cleaning but have not as of yet. My consumption is about a qt every 800-1000 miles of which some must be from leaking. If you were I, where would you begin to look? I changed the pcv valve, and it looks dry inside. Engine all over looks dry too under the intake cover.

I did change to 10/30 synthetic oil, but will change back because that may intensify my issue. Where I live mechanics are criminals with tool boxes. Not too helpful.:rant2: I will solve these issues myself because I believe its not the end for my car.:thumbsup: Any positive thoughts??:)

chubbyranger
01-19-09, 09:38 AM
Put the year of your car in your header - pre- or post- 2000 can make a difference. Your oil leak may be the half case seal - a tough DIY job because step 1 is "remove engine from car." There are other leak sources of course, camshaft cover gaskets, oil pressure switch, etc. You won't know until you get underneath and even then it will be a job because there's probably oil and grime blown around everywhere.

Ranger
01-19-09, 06:09 PM
Common leak points are halfcase and oil pan on older models, but like Chubby said, it's cheaper and easier to just feed it oil. Also check the oil cooler lines, oil filter adapter and oil pressure switch.

chazglenn3
01-20-09, 09:32 AM
Putting synthetic oil in an older car that has been using regular oil is virtually guaranteed to cause an oil leak. The deposits and such that have settled into cracks and crevices and have been holding the oil in get neatly cleaned away by the synthetic oil and the leaks appear in various places almost instantly. Switching back to dino oil may get the leaks to stop, but it will take time. Sorry. However, that said, one quart per 800-1000 miles is considered normal usage for the Northstar. The burning oil smell is annoying, I agree.

SupRNatural
01-24-09, 12:34 PM
I will look in to these issues. My 1996 Eldorado actually runs very strong now considering when I bought it had some carbon knock. I don't hear it any longer. Only 106k on the clock. I hope it's not the half case seal, and I can repair it with the other fixes, when I can get it on a lift.:hmm:

SupRNatural
01-27-09, 11:49 AM
This am I went to the bank drive up window. While car is idling poof shuts off. Won't start. I cycle ignition twice, and she starts. Ok I pull to the parking lot. Turn it off, start it again having a rough time. I cycle the key about 4-5 times (Check Ignition system comes on)-> DIS. Starts up and off we go. I want to install a set of the MSD replacement coils. 39.95 ea. on Summit. Good idea? or?:hmm: OH! I almost forgot, The check engine light went out before I left the bank. :bonkers::hmm::ohthedrama:

Part deaux: NEXT- I come home open hood look around. I believe It may be leaking at the oil pan but not sure. I noticed quite a few drops of oil on the snow. Look like its coming from the front of the engine. I must get her up in the air and figure out where the seepage is coming from. Also I noticed when I gas the throttle the car is running rich (ignition system not 100%) Otherwise I love this car. I know in my heart that I can get this baby to run well. BTW what are all the blue toppers for on all the engine fasteners? Is that from the factory, or?

Ranger
01-27-09, 02:29 PM
I want to install a set of the MSD replacement coils. 39.95 ea.
Why? If you coils are working why replace them? You won't get any gains if that is what you're thinking.

Also I noticed when I gas the throttle the car is running rich
Check the FPR for a leak.

BTW what are all the blue toppers for on all the engine fasteners? Is that from the factory, or?
:confused: Blue toppers?

Submariner409
01-27-09, 02:29 PM
If you think the problem is coils instead of the ICM under the coils, buy whatever set is cheaper.....MSD or ACDelco/Delphi. Might as well do the plug wires at the same time unless the present set is new. Make very sure the plug wires are connected to the coils as shown.

Did someone put cutesy blue plastic caps on the bolt heads ??

BTW..............a stall as described is not coils.

SupRNatural
01-27-09, 03:02 PM
:confused: Blue toppers?

Yes like small plastic washers on the all the exposed engine fasteners, not Bling, looks like from factory :hmm:

I don't believe its fuel related. It keeps flashing an Ignition Check DIS every once and a while.

SupRNatural
01-27-09, 03:08 PM
Thanks Sub: If it flashed check ignition, would I be able to get a replacement icm without killing my bank account? I'm not content with being a parts changer mechanic. The local wrenchs think they are curing cancer when you ask for a diagnosis :helpless:. The car runs smooth with no misses or stumbling. Actually sometimes it wants to fry the tires :sneaky:.:hmm:



If you think the problem is coils instead of the ICM under the coils, buy whatever set is cheaper.....MSD or ACDelco/Delphi. Might as well do the plug wires at the same time unless the present set is new. Make very sure the plug wires are connected to the coils as shown.

Did someone put cutesy blue plastic caps on the bolt heads ??

BTW..............a stall as described is not coils.

Submariner409
01-27-09, 04:03 PM
With a full stall and hard restart, the system has to be setting trouble codes. Get into your diagnostic mode and write down all the codes, and whether they're Current or History. You probably have OBD-I or a crossover variant (late 1996) so the code stickys at the top of these thread pages will work for your car, too. It's a DIY thing.....you don't need a scanner....all built in. The codes will tell you where to start diagnosis.

Don't throw any money at it until you find the problem.....electronic ignition can get expensive in a hurry.

SupRNatural
01-27-09, 04:16 PM
Sub: My car is built 01/96 Can that help?

Caddyshack100
01-30-09, 08:56 PM
Your Car as it stands is OBD2 on the engine electronics, but some of the other systems are the older style, such as ABS etc, when you run those codes, one which should come up is P1599 Stall or near stall detected, probably the most obvious code GM has ever written. Good luck

SupRNatural
01-30-09, 09:51 PM
Yes the 1599 was there. I need to service ignition system so it says. Where do I begin? Anyone have a good ICM they want to sell? :rolling:

Submariner409
01-30-09, 09:55 PM
Yep..........01/96 is halfway through the 96 model year, so most of the running OBD-II changes are in. For an ICM, look at www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) or RockAuto. If no joy, try the folks at www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com), www.gmotors.com (http://www.gmotors.com), or Luke in parts at Lindsay Cadillac, over there ----->

BEFORE going to the ICM, when was the last plug/wire change??? Who did it ?? Are your plug wires connected as shown ? Have you replaced one or more coils ?

SupRNatural
01-31-09, 12:43 AM
Yep..........01/96 is halfway through the 96 model year, so most of the running OBD-II changes are in. For an ICM, look at www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) or RockAuto. If no joy, try the folks at www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com), www.gmotors.com (http://www.gmotors.com), or Luke in parts at Lindsay Cadillac, over there ----->

[QUOTE=submariner409;1752273]BEFORE going to the ICM, when was the last plug/wire change??? Who did it ?? Are your plug wires connected as shown ? Have you replaced one or more coils ?

I really don't know. The wires look pretty new. Don't know who did it (Theme from Dragnet playing in the background) I will check wires in the Am. The coils are still the same, but I want to change them as soon as I can. The engine is still smooth, and acting fine but has a gremlin that needs a beating..

SupRNatural
02-07-09, 08:27 PM
Well, I installed the #3 O2 sensor from the code flashed on the DIS. Upon removal it took the threads with it on the way out:banghead: I had to tap a new thread so that the new sensor would fit properly :annoyed: It's all buttoned up again. My biggest complaint about this car is not the ignition or ses light but the lousy oil leak that I can 't seem to find. The oil loss is a qt. every 700-800 miles. I'm running 10-30 what else can I put in there to slow it down? :ill:I checked the pan bolts and they were tight..It's wet in the front near oil filter,oil switch, oil pan is wet,trans pan,and oil flys back under chassis.:nono::helpless:

chubbyranger
02-08-09, 06:36 AM
Possibly the case half seal? Hopefully not because that's a drop the motor to fix job. I don't think you can add anything to the oil to slow the leak that would not have other harmful side effects.

Submariner409
02-08-09, 08:04 AM
The oil filter adapter is sealed to the block by two O-rings. Time, heat and vibration may have taken their toll. Changing the O-rings is a piece of cake, especially during an oil change up on a hoist. Try that route.

BIG ERN
02-08-09, 10:32 AM
:)a quart every 7-800 miles is not all that uncommon on these cars.

SupRNatural
02-09-09, 09:14 PM
Subster, can these o-rings be had in a Napa, or Autozone Or dealer only?






The oil filter adapter is sealed to the block by two O-rings. Time, heat and vibration may have taken their toll. Changing the O-rings is a piece of cake, especially during an oil change up on a hoist. Try that route.

chubbyranger
02-09-09, 11:36 PM
Subster, can these o-rings be had in a Napa, or Autozone Or dealer only?

For the likely small relative cost difference I'd try the dealer first. Much better probability that you'll get good quality and the correct size. Napa or AZ will likely sell you a generic O-ring that's the same size.

Submariner409
02-10-09, 08:18 AM
^^^^ True words. Some things are best bought from only The Great Parts Bin in The Sky.

SupRNatural
02-25-09, 08:47 PM
I see some minute oil smoke at idle from rear of engine (hood open). While underneath looking up its wet in front, maybe its just blowing back there after I drive?:suspense: :annoyed: BTW my exhaust tips have carbon on them. It's not very oily I can wipe it off fairly easily without much residue.:suspect: