: Newbie needs help



lblj558
06-28-04, 09:47 AM
Have a 95 seville sls 4.6L. Ran over something on the road and it cracked the oil pan. Got the vehicle home by putting in oil every mile. The stop engine light only came on only once and I pulled over and refilled with oil. I understand the only way to remove the pan is the take out the engine, so I patched the pan with epoxy. let it dry 24 hrs refilled with oil, new oil filter and everthing was ok. Drove to the gas station turned off the engine and when i turned it back on the low pressure light came on and the engine sounded like it wasn't getting any oil. I'm thinking its the oil pump, how can I check for sure without removing it and how difficult is it to remove. Is it behind the cover behind the belt or is it in the oil pan? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

zonie77
06-28-04, 11:10 AM
The pump is behind the front cover.

I'd put a mechanical oil gauge on temporarily to see what the pressure really is. Possibly the bearings got wiped out.

Anthony Cipriano
06-28-04, 12:32 PM
When the oil pan was cracked it likely generated some small chunks of debris inside the pan. If a small chunk got picked up by the pump it could have stuck the oil pump pressure control/relief valve open so that the pump will not prime.

Usually this is a simple fix. Put in 8 extra quarts of oil. The pump is up on the crankshaft at the front of the engine so the idea here is to put in enough extra oil to raise the oil level to the oil pump so that it is forced to prime. With the extra oil in the engine, start it and it should have oil pressure. Rev it up to 4500 or so once you are sure it has primed and has oil pressure to open the pressure relief valve to blow the debris out. It will be fine after that. Drain the oil back to the proper level and carry on.

This may be an ongoing problem with the situation you described if the pan was cracked seriously. The pan is diecast aluminum which is not very ductile so it cracks and makes chunks when bent. Possibly you would want to drain the oil and flush some solvent in and out of the drain plug port to try and get as much debris out as possible. Keep some extra quarts of oil with you so in case it happens again you can over fill it and force it to prime.

That type of repair with epoxy is a bit touchy. I've seen repairs like that last quite awhile and others fall or flake off suddenly. If you got the surface nice and clean and let the epoxy cure (and used some strong epoxy like the JB Weld stuff) before putting oil back into the pan then it might last awhile for ya.

furluvcats
06-28-04, 03:53 PM
Would an epoxy coating also fix an oil leak? I am just letting mine leak rather than pay the $$$$ to fix it.

Brian

Anthony Cipriano
06-28-04, 09:22 PM
Would an epoxy coating also fix an oil leak? I am just letting mine leak rather than pay the $$$$ to fix it.

Brian


If the leak is through the casting due to a crack or porosity then it might be repairable with epoxy but this type of oil leak is a rarity, really. If the leak is from a gasketed surface forget the idea of an epoxy or other quick fix. You can goop up the leak spot and the leak will just follow the gasket line around the goop and leak on either side. Not really something that's very effective.

lblj558
07-01-04, 10:21 AM
Thanks for all the advice Anthony. You are a genius. I used a clear epoxy to fill the cracks, covered that with jb weld and then applied squidgee epoxy(designed to seal cracks in foundations holds pressure well not sure about heat). Added the extra oil and ran for 10 seconds, ran very rough and smoke came out the muffler. Drained excess oil and the car has been running great so far. It's been 3 days and 130 miles since. Great advice. Thanks again.

Anthony Cipriano
07-01-04, 12:07 PM
Thanks for all the advice Anthony. You are a genius. I used a clear epoxy to fill the cracks, covered that with jb weld and then applied squidgee epoxy(designed to seal cracks in foundations holds pressure well not sure about heat). Added the extra oil and ran for 10 seconds, ran very rough and smoke came out the muffler. Drained excess oil and the car has been running great so far. It's been 3 days and 130 miles since. Great advice. Thanks again.
Anytime! :bouncy: And thank you for the follow-up. :) Be sure and check on the condition of the epoxy, occasionally, though, lest it start to crack and peel off with time and temp and oil seeping into the gaps. Epoxy can hold pretty good but it's better to be safe than sorry. :)

97Deville
07-02-04, 12:10 AM
I had a Plymouth Mini van once. The oil pan rusted out, no idea how they were able to engineer something that contains oil, to rust out.

I used 3 min epoxy and a few pennys to plug the perferation holes. Out lasted the vehicle, and a lot less than the cost of a new oil pan. Pennys LOL

lblj558
07-02-04, 09:50 AM
4 days 160 miles and going strong. Guess I got three years to beat. Very encouraging stories. I didn't think of beer cans or pennies, I used a piece of gasket material as my base. Dodged a bullet on this one. Good idea about carrying an epoxy kit, ya never know.