: Stubborn Water Pump Removal



jsw5620
01-01-09, 05:40 PM
Guys, just wanted to give you a heads up. I did a search on here and tried to find any tricks to removing a water pump that had corroded and stuck to the housing. I read the thread about using an impact but I didnt have one. I first soaked it in PB Blaster and let it sit, only after breaking one of the "teeth" off of the rented tool from Autozone. Still I couldn't get it to budge. I had tried so much that I rounded off the teeth somewhat and made grooves in the old water pump to where it wouldn't catch to remove it. The strap for the socket mentioned in another thread would have come in very handy. I finally got this thing loose with a breaker bar and a pry bar (I used the pry bar to keep the removal tool engaged fully by using the engine mount as leverage). The flanges on the water pump where it contacts the housing are "raised" a little on the "tightening" side and doesn't sit flush with the housing like it does on the "loosening" side and you can get a lot better grip with the socket on this side. How I got it out was luckily my water pump wasn't fully seated against the stops and I turned it like I was tightening it (counter-clockwise) until it broke free. Due to the socket getting a better "grip" this way it was a lot easier. I was then able to loosen the water pump (clockwise) with no problems. I hope this helps someone who's pump is stuck like mine so they won't spend 3 hours trying to remove a stuck water pump.

Ranger
01-01-09, 06:51 PM
What year car is this?

Too bad you did not have an impact. A few short bursts goes a lot farther than simply increasing torque.

jsw5620
01-01-09, 07:30 PM
It's a 97 STS. I really don't think that I over torqued it. The tangs weren't fully seated against the stop. I could have easily kept "tightening" it and removed it that way as the the tangs are easily bendable and the grooves aren't tapered but I just moved it enough to free it. Just trying to help out those like me who don't have pneumatic tools and such at the house. I was at my wits end because I had already F'd up the old pump trying to break it free because the socket kept jumping off of it. I don't think that an impact would have even helped due to the old pump tabs being screwed. Not enough left there for the tool to grab.

Necrosan
01-02-09, 06:03 AM
I did the exact same thing to break mine free.
So glad I have the dog bone torque struts. :)

stngh8r
01-02-09, 10:43 AM
The difference is in the tool.

I bought a Lisle brand tool from O'Reilly's and it stunk. I spend hours working on that stupid thing with no success. I had a extra pair of hands from my dad, pry bars, cheater bars, you name it. After breaking a couple of teeth off the tool, I went to an acquaintance of mine who works at a dealer and asked if I could please borrow his N* water pump tool? He obliged, we compared the tools side by side and the Lisle was slightly the wrong size to start with and not nearly the overall quality.

-I returned the Lisle and got my money back. With the loaned GM dealer tool and the water pump was off and the new on in a short and drama free few moments.

-It was an easy job once I got the right tool, but impossible without.

jsw5620
01-02-09, 06:12 PM
I agree with the ones from autoparts stores being poor quality. I even bent the "teeth" out a little to try to get a better grip and repaired the rounded edges with a file before i used it. There was no way it was going to break it free without doing what I stated above.

Ranger
01-02-09, 06:55 PM
Yeah, those Lisle sockets are stamped steel. That's why they are so cheap ($20 vs $80) and why I made my own.