: Seville Filter
12-30-08, 01:49 PM
I have a 99 Seville.
Now i know there have been many discussions about all those modifications by removing the OEM filter and replacing it with a cheeper aftermarket one. But when it gets down to using the OEM filter to "enhance" sound and performance is my question. I bought the regular K&N filter (Box filter) and added it in. Works well, much better than the cheep aftermarket one with absolute no idle. Now i wanted to deepen the sound a bit so i removed the resonator and added a hard pvc pipe cap and used the clamp so its a perfect fit. Is there aything else to do? and does it harm anything engine wise?
12-30-08, 07:42 PM
Won't hurt a thing and won't be any faster. Might impress a ricer with fart-can muffler. Go to a WIX panel filter. Take a hard look at your existing airbox...easy without the resonator....and find the hole in the inner fender sheet metal, just beside the air box. Do some guesstimating and remove the airbox and cut a corresponding hole in the side, on the correct side of the panel filter. Now cut a 2" thick rectangular foam gasket to join your new airbox hole with the fender hole. You have just doubled your intake area and, yes, more noise. Not noisy enough ?? Remove the left headlight and airbox (for working room) and open and extend the original air duct down to behind the lower grille. On a WOT they'll hear you coming a half mile away.
12-31-08, 12:33 AM
Wow, i am definetly looking forward to doing just that.
If you can can you post some more pictures showing how it looks like then that would be great.
Im more of a look and do person than a follow instructions and do. haha
01-01-09, 10:38 PM
What if we went with this idea instead of the butt plug?
We use pvc piping so it is stable (using pvc cement for a perfect joint and no leakage). we juse need to make room to get around the metal and airbox. Then behind the grill will be an extra filter and will get nothing but cold air.
01-01-09, 11:04 PM
id say how on earth are you going to clear the rad cover and not smash it with the hood...
also your maf sensor is going to hate you for that
i see alot of idle issues, if it even can idle...
Look closely at the stock system. It already draws nothing but cold air and the stock filter won't pass as much dirt as the cone you are considering, ESPECIALLY where you want to put it (IF you could get it there).
01-01-09, 11:29 PM
Well one solution with the MAF sensor would be 2 things:
1) since the OEM Intake tubing is very flexable, we can turn it so the MAF sensor (should have a long enough line) and it would be out of the way and have clearance for tubing.
2) the "U" shape should be small enough for clearance from the hood, and i've already measured the filter and the space for the filter inbetween the grill and radiator should be enough (Im not talking about those gigantic cheap aftermarket filters pepboys sell)
Seville2003, how do you figure there will be any idle? I know there is idle from drawing the excessive heat just by putting in the chrome pipe and no heat shield.
Also Ranger im not figuring of just getting cold air, i want to double the amount of cold air the engine gets. And it wont be as much dirt and crap getting to the filter because one if there is rain, simply unscrew the filter, put a cap on and you are alright. Otherwise the splashguard should be covering under the filter, This is only a rough idea so i do not want to start an uproar, and i want to exclude the idea of drilling into the OEM box and metal like submariner suggessted.
01-01-09, 11:57 PM
pull the plug
and youll see
any air that enters the intake after the maf causes it to run lean and stall out
01-02-09, 12:05 AM
Is that the case?
I thought that if there is a leak no matter what the car will stall out and shut the computer off.
And wouldnt the new filter be sucking air in along with the OEM box therefor causing no stall?
Im not trying to relocate the filter if thats where you coming from.
....Also Ranger im not figuring of just getting cold air, i want to double the amount of cold air the engine gets.
You could double or triple or quadruple the (cold) air "available" to the intake system and not be able to measure a change in any engine performance parameter.
The OEM intake air plumbing is capable of supplying more cold air than the engine can pump at redline RPM. Where is the cost-effectiveness in doubling the volume of air available?
Ignore these comments if noise is what you are pursuing.
01-02-09, 12:13 AM
I understand that supplying more air will not give any performance gain. Yes, i am looking to making the sound louder and deeper, but in a way that will not harm the computer or engine. From the aftermarket cone intakes that come with the chrome piping and no protection from heat will kill the ECM and that i am avoiding too because it is exposed to everything
01-02-09, 12:19 AM
remove the upper and lower silencer as sub has displayed (i told him of the bottom one, he pioneered the top one ie cleanest set up yet imho)
and you will get that sucky noise you seek....
however the sucky noise of the S/C Cobra that just pulled along side you will not only laugh, but make quick work of you...
01-02-09, 12:27 AM
Where is the bottom silencer located?
The top silencer (big resonator) is the one that sub has shown in his picture with the "butt plug" correct?
also that cobra comment is not needed, im just looking for ways to make the intake sound deeper
01-02-09, 10:40 AM
DaveT90, The idea of running another line from the resonator hole will not work because the air leak created is after the MAF in the intake tract, so will totally mess up the sensed a/f ratio: the car will not run. (and the cutesy top hat filter does absolutely nothing except grant "Oh, gosh, look at that !" rights, as well as put money in someone else's pocket.) DO NOT get creative and try to remove the "screen" on the MAF: that is a 3/16" deep honeycomb flow straightener, exactly the same principle as a wind tunnel, used to assure a stable flow over the heated resistors on the MAF bridges.
The lower silencer is a U-shaped tube which runs from the bottom of the airbox to up behind the left headlight assembly....an OEM functional Cold Air Intake. The trick is to remove the U-tube, enlarge the hole, snip up and pop rivet a spigot, and extend the duct down behind the lower grille.
The original design panel filter (use a WIX), more than adequate, remains in place and still filters all the air entering the engine. As everyone opines, the panel filter is plenty large in the flow department. There is no metal cutting involved in modifying the airbox......it's all reinforced plastic work. If you don't like the work, get a replacement from www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) .
That tag on the water pump pulley shroud shows that the fuel tank pressure sensor recall was accomplished....its a campaign completion tag.
If you want to put to bed every rumor on intake air temperature, heat soak, chrome tubing, etc., etc., go to www.scangauge.com and spend $170. Bye, bye rumors. The intake tract heats up during city driving/idle periods and cools down during road running. Imagine that........and any form of so-called "cold air intake" will not change that physical fact one whit.
hey, sub, where can i find your post about the butt plug modification? i've been looking for some time and can't seem to get it. if you have a page with pics that would also be fancy. and, to do this mod, we are to modify both silencers?
01-05-09, 09:39 AM
The plug is a $2.50 rubber pipe cap, 2", from any hardware store or Home Depot type place. Note the relationship of the MAF to the air filter housing, loosen all 3 clamps, remove the MAF and adapter, then the convoluted intake duct. You'll find it easiest to pull it off the TB and snake it up and out around the purge line. Insert the plug flush as shown and mark the excess inside skirt with a Sharpie, pull it out and trim the skirt. Check it again. If this is as far as you go this time, replace the intake ducting and orient evrything properly, tighten the clamps. Using a dab of black gasket RTV sealer around the edge of the cap, slide it in and snug the clamp. Excess tightness will squash the cap/duct. Dig around in your tool box to come up with a proper machine screw/washer to secure the top of the airbox cover: the old Torx bolt and rubber cookie looks unfinished........
Anything further requires removal of the airbox and a session of measure and cut.......a Dremel tool is handy for this. Individual hole size - from the side to the fender (see the fender hole ??) - is up to you, as is the method of running the lower duct from the bottom of the box to the lower grille area.