: CD Changer to MP3 Player



kakjea
12-30-08, 12:21 PM
Hi, I have a 99 STS with the Bose system and a 6 Disc CD changer in the arm rest. I was wondering if there was an easy way to take out the Changer and get some sort of adapter to make that into a audio jack to use with an MP3 Player. I think that the changer on stereo would just be an auxilary sound input?? Not really sure about all this. If someone has any insight it would be great.

Thank you very much

CadillacSTS42005
12-30-08, 12:25 PM
only if your looking to connect an ipod

kakjea
12-30-08, 12:41 PM
What would i need to do that?

N*Caddy
12-30-08, 10:31 PM
What would i need to do that?

The easiest way to do an AUX input in you setup is to insert a jack on the audio signal between the HU and the RIM. It will cost you around $15 and about 1-2 hours of work.
You need one of those 3.5’ female jack connectors that switches the signal (i.e. when you plug the mail jack the signal between input and output is disconnected and the signal from the male jack is sent on the output. How can you tell is a switching jack or just a regular one: well a stereo jack has 3 pins (COM, Left and Right Channel). The one that switch has 5 pins: COM, Left In, Left Out, Right In, Right Out. With no male jack inserted the Left Out and Left In are connected together same thing on the right channel.
Inserting the Male Jack into the female connector will disconnect Left In from Left Out and Right In from Right Out and will connect the Left channel from the male jack to the Left Out of the female connector and the same for the Right Channel.
The final result, with no AUX jack inserted you can hear the radio or the HU CD, with the AUX jack inserted you hear your MP3 player of whatever audio device you connect. Switching to CD Changer you will hear the CD changer regardless. In order to hear the AUX input you need to be on Radio or in dash CD or Tape (if you have one). Also you will have control over the volume from the HU/Steering wheel controls and MP3 player.

Here is what you need:

1. One female Jack Connector with switching capabilities. Come to think you will need one with two more additional switches: 2 for the L/R audio signal and 2 for the return (since your unit has separate returns (although you can connect them together, but better get the proper Jack). This jack you can find it at any electronics parts store for around $1.5. Again you need one that switches and has two additional switches. Tell the guy you need one female 3.5’ jack for headphone the one that when you plug the headphones in mutes the speakers (and should have 2 more switches). Is a very, very common part and should have 9 pins underneath: Audio COM, Left IN, Left OUT, Right IN, Right OUT, SW1 COM, SW1 NO, SW1 NC, SW2 COM SW2 NO, SW2 NC.
2. One 32 Pins Female connector (Identical with the one that connects in the back of your HU).
3. One 32 Pins Male connector (identical with the one in the back of the HU)

Use the two 32 pin connectors to make a small extension cable between the car harness and the back of your HU.
Run wires between the following pins of the two connectors (one to one connection)

E1-E1
E4-E4
E5-E5
E6-E6
E14-E14
E15-E15
E16-E16
F1-F1
F3-F3
F5-F5
F6-F6
F11-F11
F12-F12
F13-F13

Now using 2 shielded audio signal 2 channels cables (like the one connecting your audio signal from the DVD player to the AV port of your TV, the ones with white and red RCA connectors) you have to connect the female Jack connector to the extension cable as fallow:
- Pin E12 on the female 32-pin connector from your extension cable to Left IN on the Jack connector.
- Pin E13 on the female 32-pin connector from your extension cable to SW1 COM on the Jack connector.
- Pin F15 on the female 32-pin connector from your extension cable to Right IN on the Jack connector.
- Pin E14 on the female 32-pin connector from your extension cable to SW2 COM on the Jack connector.
- Pin E12 on the male 32-pin connector from your extension cable to Left OUT on the Jack connector.
- Pin E13 on the male 32-pin connector from your extension cable to SW1 NC on the Jack connector.
- Pin F15 on the male 32-pin connector from your extension cable to Right OUT on the Jack connector.
- Pin E14 on the male 32-pin connector from your extension cable to SW2 NC on the Jack connector.
On the Female Jack Connector also connect audio COM pin with SW1 NO and SW2 NO pins.
You might want to mount the Female Jack Connector on a small PCB and place it somewhere behind a plastic panel leaving just a round opening to insert the AUX jack in.

How to detect witch pin is what on that female jack connector:
The pin in the middle right under the connector opening is Audio COM (using a meter you see 0 Ohms between the ring around the opening and the pin)
For the SW1/SW2 (located on the opposite end of the Audio COM) is a pair of 6 pins (3 for SW1 and 3 for SW2). Using a meter identify witch pair of pins are in short. Insert a male jack connector in and determine witch of the pins of each pair is now in short with the 3-rd pin form SW1 and SW2 (needless to say the pair now have on more contact with the connector inserted). The common pins (usually in the middle) are the SW1 COM and SW2 COM. The one that was making contact with the SW1 COM with no Jack In is the SW1 NC and the third pin is SW1 NO (same for SW2). Important none of the SW1 and SW2 pins are in contact in any situation (jack in, jack out). If they do make contact then you mixed out the pins, start allover.
Then you have left 4 more pins grouped in pairs one on each side of the connector (towards the middle on the long axis of the female jack). With no jack the two pins of each pair are in contact. Inserting the male jack the contact on both pairs is broken. Now Identify witch one makes contact with the male jack connector. The pin making contact with the male Jack pin from the Left channel is the Left OUT (and the other one is Left IN) same story for the Right Channel.

Here is the diagram of a male and female jack connector (just ignore the chip part of the drawing). Also keep in mind the female connector will need to have 2 more switches that work in synchrony with the insertion/removal of the male jack connector (again very common part, I have 2-3 of those lying in my electronics parts box).


http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31585&d=1180897094 (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-audio-video-security-systems/108708-auxiliary-input-seville-deville-catera-direct.html)
Click on the image to see the original thread also with an actual picture of the female jack connector (is wrapped in black tape but you get the idea). Also is a picture with my placement of the jack connector on a PCB in the ash tray area.

Also you can always use a regular Jack Female Connector (or even RCA) and use micro-relays to do the switching (you need 4 switches in total thus 2 micro-relays with dual contacts). In this case you will add a button to do the actual switch.

That’s it you have hard wired AUX input on your BOSE sound system, and you keep the CD changer too.

CadillacSTS42005
12-30-08, 11:01 PM
ipod2car
GM version

kakjea
12-31-08, 11:09 AM
Thank you both very much!

Buick225
02-06-09, 02:48 PM
First of all a very big thanks to N*Caddy for this tutorial :2thumbs:

But do somebody know where I can get these 32 Pin male and female connectors? I dont want to destroy my original cable.

Thanks in advance

Buick225

N*Caddy
02-06-09, 07:14 PM
Wal-Mart
The Auto section has a small shelf for car electronics. Over there you can find the aftermarket connectors for GM. If it has 32 pins (2x16) and is male says GM '96-up then that's what you need (should be ~$10). Here is how it looks (http://cgi.ebay.ca/98-99-CADILLAC-DEVILLE-SEVILLE-RADIO-CD-CASSETTE-PLAY_W0QQitemZ200307105153QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_A udio_Video?hash=item200307105153&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1215%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318#ebayphotohosting) (check rear view picture)..
As for the female connector, Wal-Mart might not have-it but you can go to any wreck yard around you, find a Cadillac (any ‘96-’04) and cut the end of the harness that goes to the stereo. Also you can buy it already removed from this guy (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200286269659&ssPageName=MERC_VI_RCRX_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT&refitem=200307105153&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=active_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget&_trksid=p284.m184&_trkparms=algo%3DCRX%26its%3DS%252BI%252BSS%26itu% 3DISS%252BUCI%252BSI%26otn%3D4#ebayphotohosting) for $6 (I am not affiliated with him by the way).
You will probably need to relocate some pins (they come easily using a needle (after removing the plastic stoppers).

jhorner
06-29-09, 03:44 PM
Nice this is what I was looking for. My Cd player just stopped working which causes an error that does not allow for me to piggy back my MP3 on the cd players wires anymore. Thanks alot for this it is a much better set up than I had.

N*Caddy
06-29-09, 09:42 PM
Use two micro-relays (2 NC/NO). One for common and one for L+ and R+ and for control power use the power antenna signal.
I made a small PCB in a box on the harness, here are the pictures:



http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4138/1605091848.jpg (http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=5291&sort=1&cat=3&page=2)

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4091/1605091849.jpg (http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=5291&sort=1&cat=3&page=2)


Finally somebody understands me! :)

jhorner
06-30-09, 10:32 AM
When you say "On the Female Jack Connector also connect audio COM pin with SW1 NO and SW2 NO pins." do you mean to wire them together on the jack connector? I am also having some significant trouble with the female jack. I can't find it, do you have any part numbers?

N*Caddy
06-30-09, 09:05 PM
You can do that, or as I mentioned before use a relay with 2 COM, 2 NC and 2 NO (basically a double switch).
Here is the diagram:


http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/7703/auxin.jpg

If you don't like spending ~$10 on two microrelays you can do-it from the Jack female connector/switch (providing it has 2 additional switches - I have some like that). But that will make your audio path from HU to RIM longer (I rather avoid that no matter how good is shielded). You can also connect the COM together (is no problem) but is not as “professional”.

Female connector...Junk yard any '96-'03 Cadillac (not sure about CTS), also E-bay (but E-Bay is more for the Male connector due to the aftermarket HU demand)

jhorner
07-01-09, 09:47 AM
I did not think about the length of the cable that I am using is unsheilded.

Sorry not sure if i explained correctly I have the connectors that go into the HU male and female. I was looking for the connector that the headphone would plug into. The electronics places around here just stare at me and bring me standard stereo jacks one place had a switching connection but all others not so much.

Since you pointed out the benefits of using the relays I am now not sure which route I will go.

I need to make a choice soon as i do not have an MP3 player in my car. :(

N*Caddy
07-01-09, 11:09 AM
Here is exactly what you need in terms of female jack 3.5mm connector:


http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2f0j00OWTQHMUPRaRoM/Audio-Connector-3-5mm-Phone-Jack-CK-3-5-307B2-.jpg

I mean EXACTLY THIS ONE, this is the one I use (I have a bag of them in my tool box – fairly common device on your local electronics parts supplier).
Notice it has 5 audio pins (the wider ones) and on the back 6 more?
Well theoretically this can replace your relays completely but I rather use the relays.
So the wider pin in center is the AUX COM, then the outer most left pin is OUT L and the inner left pin is IN L. Then on the other side the right outer pin is OUT R while the inner right pin is IN R.
Then the 6 pins in the back, the two in the middle are SW:COM while the 2 left pins are NO while the 2 in the right are NC. Basically between the 6 pins in the back you have 2 switches 2NO and 2NC).
These switches are the ones to use as AUX in sensing signal. So connect as follows:

OUT R to AUX:R+
OUT L to AUX:L+
AUX COM to AUX:COM

Then to be on the safe side (in case one of the two switches fails in time) connect the two SW:COM together and to the POWER ANT control wire witch is ON as long as the HU is ON and you only need AUX with the radio ON). You can go ahead and connect the SW:COM pins to ANY permanent +12V wire but if you turn OFF the car and you leave the AUX jack from your mp3 player (or what ever device) plugged in the relays will be energized drawing ~35mA constantly, i.e. you will drain the battery in about … 4-5 months (is not like will ever happen to leave your car off for 5 moths but is let’s just say - not professional, not to mention the Power antenna signal is also so easily accessible).
Then the 2 NO pins are to be connected together and to the AUX IN.

N*Caddy
07-01-09, 11:25 AM
Since a picture worth 1000 words here is your “IKEA” simple diagram:


http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7703/auxin.jpg

jhorner
07-01-09, 12:20 PM
:D

Thanks was about to ask if it is better to use a button or to use the switching jack. But that pic took care of that. I appreciate your help on this can send a pic when I am done.

Kyle_STS_96
11-12-09, 10:18 AM
anybody in the Providence, RI area trying to make a quick buck. i'd pay 200 bucks for someone to do this

Dallas_danco
06-15-10, 12:22 AM
This is Awesome. Quick Question if the car is not equiped with a Cd changer is their a wasy to hook the MP3 player to the aux input?


Would this avoid all the relays and stuff?

Dan

jhorner
06-15-10, 11:22 AM
It would depend on your car and if you have the wiring already set up in your car. Some have the wiring already in place for a cd changer. Look for that first.

The relays are only required if you wire it between your head unit and the amp. I think that set up only works with a specific combination

N*Caddy
06-15-10, 09:24 PM
People please FORGET about the CD Changer connector, you can not use it UNLES you have a CD Changer attached. Then is the inconvenience your AUX input is only available in CD Changer mode.
The best option is the audio line between HU and AMP (a.k.a. RIM in some cars).
You make your own harness and relay box (this is the hard part) then is a matter of 2 minutes in a Deville and ~30min in Seville/Eldorado to actually connect the harness.
REGARDLESS you need the relays!

^Tom^
07-23-10, 08:03 AM
hi all

to find the connectors in switzerland is hard stuff.
can anybody send me the connectors?
i can't write privates messages, so i have to write here to ask.

thanks

tom

lewandowski_jacek
07-29-10, 02:49 PM
hey!
what about these kind of mp3 disc changer adapters: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/285040778/Car_Digital_Music_Changer_USB_SD.html ? anyone tried this kind of thing?

consigliori
07-30-10, 11:28 AM
This is kinda being a bitch to find...

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/220908453/Earphone_Jack.html

this it?

A good tip would be to add "PCB" to your searches for this...

lewandowski_jacek
09-05-10, 08:04 AM
It would depend on your car and if you have the wiring already set up in your car. Some have the wiring already in place for a cd changer. Look for that first.

The relays are only required if you wire it between your head unit and the amp. I think that set up only works with a specific combination

Hi guys,
So I have in my 99 Seville with stock audio a disc changer, which gives me "disc changer error", it's not playing anything. Can I just plug this female jack connector in between cables leading to the disc changer and use other device plugged instead of the changer?

N*Caddy
09-06-10, 12:22 AM
Hi guys,
So I have in my 99 Seville with stock audio a disc changer, which gives me "disc changer error", it's not playing anything. Can I just plug this female jack connector in between cables leading to the disc changer and use other device plugged instead of the changer?

NO
Just clean up the lens, check the mechanical integrity of the CD changer mechanism (load/spin). If no joy a new (to you) unit of e-bay is well below $100.

cpetro45
07-08-11, 07:12 PM
Hey N*Caddy,
I've been reading this thread on the audio aux input. I have a 99 SLS with Bose. I ordered this 3.5mm female jack with 11 pins, you can look at the data sheet here Edit: search for st-3100-11c, can't post links as I'm a new user) I believe it's the right one.

I have a few clarification questions:

1) Why can't I just extend the 32 Pin cable myself and put the relays / 3.5mm female inbetween the original cable?
2) Do you really think sound quality would degrade without using the relays?
3) What does RIM stand for?
4) Do you have a link to the specific micro-relays I should order?

I'm comfortable with soldering/splicing, etc. I feel like this does not seem too bad. I just need a bit of help finding the micro-relays. I'd really like to get this done and appreciate the great information you have provided.

Please let me know if you could provide a link for the relays or any other pointers.

Thanks!
Chris

darryl _ jf
11-17-11, 10:39 PM
2. One 32 Pins Female connector (Identical with the one that connects in the back of your HU).
3. One 32 Pins Male connector (identical with the one in the back of the HU)
[/B]

Hi N*,
This is the connector I found at Walmart (see attached image). It includes both a 32 pin and 24 pin connector...is this what I want (ie. only use the 32 pin?). Or will I need to swap?

Also, where did you get the female jack connector...couldn't find one at 'the source'.

I don't have much of an electrical background, but I'd like to give this a try!

Darryl

N*Caddy
11-17-11, 11:33 PM
The 24-pin connector is useless unless the pins are identical with the ones in the 32-pin because in the 32-pin connector you only have about 10 wires, the remaining pins are empty, you need more pins than supplied. So if the 24 pin is not usable (for pin harvesting) then you need one more 32-pin connector. Then you need one 32 pin female connector (a junkyard is your best option, OEM quality is far superior to aftermarket). If you are in the Mississauga area Cooksville now has 2 cars with the connector you need. But you also need the jack connector, some project box, some PCB and microrelays. The parts can be sourced from Sayal (various locations in the GTA).

darryl _ jf
11-19-11, 04:00 PM
Thanks for the help so far N*. So Cooksville Wreckers is closed on the weekend...I'll give them a call on Monday and try to get that 32 pin connector. As for the rest of the supplies, I visited Sayal and picked up the jack connector. Can you give me more details on the PCB, project box and micro relays (size, type, etc)? I've attached a few pictures.
I'm not electrically savvy by any means, but really want to attempt this. One other thing, how do you make the connections on the jack connector? Thx.

Jack connector (on my finger for scale...didn't realize how tiny this was going to be!)
82886
82887
82888

N*Caddy
11-19-11, 10:23 PM
The Jack connector is EXACTLY what you need, good job finding it!
The microrelays are $5 and should be 12V with 2 pairs of contacts NC/NO/COM (total of 8 pins).
This is a picture of the microrelays mounted in the box:
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4091/1605091849.jpg

Since you have a Deville you can fit the connector right on the frame around the HU like I did in this picture:

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/7093/auxdeville.jpg

As for Cooksville they are open Saturday up to 1:00PM. They won't know about the connector, you have to go and locate the silver '99 Deville and the green '97 STS they have, the STS is a BOSE system while the Deville is base. You can get the HU connector and some pigtail harness from any of the two cars (but the easiest one is the Deville).
As you (almost) see in the picture, I cut a small portion of the PCB exactly the size of the connector and soldered the wires (22 AWG) to it. I also used the PCB to solder some solid wires that are embedded (melted) in the back of the plastic frame (that's what holds the connector). It is very precise work to drill the exact size hole and embed the wires in the plastic deep enough to hold but not too deep to break on the other side. I guess you can use epoxy for extra strength.
Here is a picture with a finished AUX input box (the loose wires suppose to be connected to the AUX input jack).
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5703/auxbose.jpg

This is the suggested PCB layout (see the relay footprint):
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5798/auxbox.png
Very, very small thing to work on (is designed for the box pictured above)

Seamaster_007
12-28-12, 02:42 AM
The Jack connector is EXACTLY what you need, good job finding it!
The microrelays are $5 and should be 12V with 2 pairs of contacts NC/NO/COM (total of 8 pins).
This is a picture of the microrelays mounted in the box:
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4091/1605091849.jpg

Since you have a Deville you can fit the connector right on the frame around the HU like I did in this picture:

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/7093/auxdeville.jpg

As for Cooksville they are open Saturday up to 1:00PM. They won't know about the connector, you have to go and locate the silver '99 Deville and the green '97 STS they have, the STS is a BOSE system while the Deville is base. You can get the HU connector and some pigtail harness from any of the two cars (but the easiest one is the Deville).
As you (almost) see in the picture, I cut a small portion of the PCB exactly the size of the connector and soldered the wires (22 AWG) to it. I also used the PCB to solder some solid wires that are embedded (melted) in the back of the plastic frame (that's what holds the connector). It is very precise work to drill the exact size hole and embed the wires in the plastic deep enough to hold but not too deep to break on the other side. I guess you can use epoxy for extra strength.
Here is a picture with a finished AUX input box (the loose wires suppose to be connected to the AUX input jack).
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5703/auxbose.jpg

This is the suggested PCB layout (see the relay footprint):
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/5798/auxbox.png
Very, very small thing to work on (is designed for the box pictured above)

Hey N*,

I'm having some difficulties locating all of the components required for this project... After researching several of your threads regarding this project, I've compiled a list of all the required components, let me know if I've missed anything.

Components:

-1 female radio connector (junkyard is best)
-1 male radio connector (aftermarket)
-2 micro relays (8 pin, each has 2 normally open and 2 normally closed switches)
-3.5mm audio jack (5 pin, switching)
-Project box, exact size unknown
-PCB, exact size unknown
-Shielded wiring, guage unsure

As stated above, there are a few aspects I could use clarification with:

1) How many pins do we require in the female/male connectors? I assume the female radio connector would have the correct amount of pins required, but the aftermarket may not.

2) Can you provide us with the dimensions of the project box you used?

3) What gauge of shielded wiring should one use for the entirety of this harness? I see you used 22 AWG for your Deville 3.5mm jack to radio harness, but perhaps you did so as space was tight behind the plastic frame. I'd like to keep my wiring the same as the factory harness, what's best to use?

Also, if you happen to have some free time, could you perhaps link me to some of the components via DigiKey or other? I've been looking somewhat, but I'm trying to compare the photos of what you have used to the photos of the products they carry. Sometimes they don't give an appropriate view, and most of the time they mention photo may not be representative of the actual product. I'm unsure of the the technical specifications of each of the components, the microrelays and the 3.5mm female audio jack are giving me the most problem.

Thanks!!

N*Caddy
12-29-12, 12:12 PM
- Relays: 2 pcs Omron 6GA-274P-SR-US (you can use any equivalent 12V DC relay)
- PCB dimensions: Note the standard 0.1' (2.54mm) standard grid I pictured on the PCB layout. Counting them you get 17x11 grid. Add half the standard 1/2 of the grid spacing on each side as a border and you get 12x18, in inch is 1.2'x1.8'.
- Project box dimensions: large enough to fit a 1.2'x1.8' PCB (height ~0.5')
- The male aftermarket connector won't have enough pins so you need to purchase 2 identical connectors (harvest the extra pins you need from the second connector).
- In the HU harness the standard (audio) wire size is 22 AWG, the standard power wire size is 18 AWG.
- The Jack connector appears to be made by MULTICOMP (formerly SPC) and I can't find the P#, I found few P# for the base connector:SPC21348, SPC21349, SPC24110 but all are missing the extension attached to the back (a pair of COM/NC/NO contacts). This snaps onto the back of the connectors I mentioned, I can't find the P# with the extension or the extension's P#. You can substitute it with a switch.
Check this link (http://www.newark.com/multicomp-formerly-from-spc/spc21348/connector-rca-phono-jack-3way/dp/11M0543) (is just the base part of the connector, no attachment, maybe you have better luck finding it).
Look at the pictures for the P# I provided and this below:
http://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00OWTQHMUPRaRo/Audio-Connector-3-5mm-Phone-Jack-CK-3-5-307B2-.jpg.
Note the extension that snaps in the back of the connector...you need that (or add a switch).

Seamaster_007
12-29-12, 07:34 PM
Thanks for the reply N*!

How do these components look?

Relays:
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G6A-274P-ST-US-DC24/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs8I5ltipPMALqkCEz7N6XW

-These seem to be "ST" instead of "SR" as you mentioned, hopefully no issues with that.

Enclosure:
http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1551FBK/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsrGrAVj6eTvYX51yoKJu3MKDjbVWtKm%2fo% 3d

-Checking the specs given on the supplied data sheet (http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1551F.pdf), the measurements you provided are very, very close to those given for the maximum PCB size. Same as you used? I don't want to go any bigger than necessary, but I'm thinking of going slightly larger as your PCB layout is so tight! I'm also unsure if you etched your own PCB or used one like this:

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vector/8015-1/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuwe2fyn7eX63XZVL%2fF%2f4d%252bocsHIE MGVUY%3d

No luck on any of the 3.5mm jacks with the switching contacts yet..any chance you have any of these components in your tool box? It would sure save me a lot of time having to look for them :thepan:

EDIT: found these, but quality seems to be lacking...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-1-8-3-5mm-Stereo-Socket-Headphone-Jack-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-w-Switch-/330845012356?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item4d07e64184

And these, but I'm not willing to purchase 100 when I only need one!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100PCS-11-PIN-1-8-3-5mm-Stereo-jack-Headphones-Socket-With-switch-Panel-Mount-/320812488374?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ab1ea16b6

N*Caddy
12-30-12, 11:26 AM
The relays are NOT correct!!!!! Note the specs: "Coil Voltage: 24 VDC" - you need 12VDC coil: THIS ONE (http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Omron-Electronics/G6A-274P-ST-US-DC12/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt%2fATQILEa77Tn5VDYYLXzoGi%252bJ6Jxc udo%3d).
The Hammond Enclosure is EXACTLY the one I used.
I am etching my own PCBs, but if you don't know how to do that you can use the generic PCB and solder the pattern between the eyelets (not very professional looking but will get the job done).
For the JACK connector, you need the BEST quality one you can find as is the ware point in the system (plug and unplug the AUX cable many times).
Both connectors you found seem to be correct (I like the second one better).

Seamaster_007
12-31-12, 02:42 AM
Thanks again N*,

I have etched PCB's once before (I'm in my fourth year studying Biomedical Electrical Engineering at the University of Manitoba), but I don't have any of the supplies at home.

Would you consider etching one for me?

I'm totally confident in completing this project, but I'd like this to be a permanent solution and thus the highest quality possible.

I was also thinking about the quality of the jacks last night, and for my application I currently have the AUX cable mounted mostly behind the dash with just the 3.5mm male end coming through the small gap near the lighter and ash tray. I'd like to mount that 3.5mm female jack somewhere permanently as the current vehicles do, but I'm also opposed to drilling any holes anywhere! Anyways, the point of this is that the 3.5mm female jack no longer is the wear point, but instead the male end of the AUX cable. Perhaps I can get away with a lesser quality jack in this instance if I cannot find anything better, I really don't want to have a manual switch..

Here is what I mean:

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3134/img20120731192618.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/img20120731192618.jpg/)

N*Caddy
12-31-12, 10:19 AM
The whole point of the AUX connector with a integrated switch is to SWITCH on HU when the male jack connector is plugged in. So you can't leave the cable inserted in the AUX connector and just plug it or unplug it from your device as the sound system will be permanently on AUX input. Your female connector IS the ware point in the system.
As for etching the PCB, like I mentioned you can use the generic board, is not that bad, you can use a fine file to smooth the soldering and make it look quite decent.
Etching PCB can be done the simplest way by using one of those Etch Resistant pens (they look like a Sharpie permanent marker) and cost about $8 to $10 each (I know the damn thing are pricey!). One should be enough for one or 2 PCB of this size. You need to make 2 PCBs as the AUX connector mounts on one. Buy a FINE tip one
http://shop.rabtron.co.za/catalog/images/etching%20pen.jpg (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=etch%20resistant%20pen&_sop=15)
Click on the picture for ebay items.
Just go to your local electronic parts supplier and ask for etching solution, etch resistant pen and a blank single side PCB. Should cost you about $35-$40 in total (if you go with the etching solution).
You can use any flat plastic tray you have, like one of those food containers or chocolate cases like the one below (eat the chocolate and etch a PCB :) ):
http://prayagaindustries.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/500_ml_Chocolate_Box.321154442_std.JPG
Obviously do not use it for anything else once you are done etching :)
As for the placement of the AUX input...I used the ash tray as well (see here the PCB) (http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-audio-video-security-systems/157429-ipod-hook-up-2002-dts-nav-3.html)
The reason, if I change my mind I can always find another ashtray and replace it.
Another place where you can install it is on the side of the center console (like left or right of the climate control using a project box that you cover with carpet so is just like a small bulge on the side of the center console.
GM installs it in the center console in the new cars. The center console insert is fairly easy to find and replace if you screw it up or change your mind.

Seamaster_007
01-03-13, 11:54 PM
Hey N*, I understand now, this alters my plans somewhat though as I was hoping not to have to drill any holes anywhere. Oh well, wishful thinking, but I do like the idea of having the female input jack permanently mounted as in the newer GM vehicles. Besides, having the cable on my car as it is now requires some "finessing" to get it to go back behind the dash when you pull it out.

So this pushes back my plans somewhat, as I will now begin to search for another ash tray surround (black plastic) as well as the other components. Mine is still like absolute brand new, so I'd hate to drill a hole in that one. I'll save mine and drill a hole in another one.

Thanks again for all your help N*, I now hope to have this project ready to install by the time summer rolls around, I'll probably have a few more questions for you along the way.

Regards.

Weezy1121
04-06-13, 01:38 AM
Use two micro-relays (2 NC/NO). One for common and one for L+ and R+ and for control power use the power antenna signal.
I made a small PCB in a box on the harness, here are the pictures:



http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4138/1605091848.jpg (http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=5291&sort=1&cat=3&page=2)

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4091/1605091849.jpg (http://www.cadillacforums.com/cadillac-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=5291&sort=1&cat=3&page=2)


Finally somebody understands me! :)


Wow that's allot of work adding relays and all that, but honestly you don't need to wire in relays that's just more work that you don't need to do, not sure if anyone has realized it yet or not but the 3.5 mm female jack that you have pictured and your telling every one the must use for this project will do the same work of the 2 relays with out needing them. If you wire the 3.5 mm female jack in properly it will do all the switching for you. Think about it you have an Ipod, Mp3 player radio anything that has speakers built in and a head phone jack what happens when you plug head phones into the jack? The sound cuts out from the speakers right? Well it's the headphone jack that does all the work. The pins on the jack, there are 2 pins that are a left and right audio input and 2 that are an left and right audio out and then the common pin, for example if you were to use the cd changer input as our AUX input you commonly have 3 wires coming from the changer to the HU and 1 wire that's the common if you cut the 3 wires in half and you hook the 3 wires from the changer to the correct 3 pins on the headphone jack, then take the other end of those wires which go to the HU and connect them to the other 3 pins on the headphone jack then you have your AUX and your relays right there the jack acts as your relay you plug your ipod or mp3 what ever into the jack now it will cut out the sound from the changer, tape deck what ever you put the jack in the middle of and will now take the input from the 3.5 wire, when you unplug your 3.5 wire then it reconnects the circuit and you get the sound from the changer, tape deck ect just as normal gain you pug in your 3.5 wire to the jack it disconects the signal from the changer or what ever and takes the signal from the 3.5 again disconect the 3.5 wire and it reconnects your circuit from what ever you wired it from. I hope this makes sence lol I'm not the best at explaining things sometimes. just keep in mind that 3.5 jack does the same thing as the 2 relays our wiring in there.

N*Caddy
04-06-13, 10:37 PM
Except with w/o the 2 relay you can't put a small delay when connecting/disconnecting the AUX jack connector (eliminates some noise, didn't mention of the 555 timer and such, and a small amplifier), is a Cadillac not a Ford. Also if the connector goes bust…your relay will keep the HU connected to the RIM/AMP while with just the connector you may have no tunes. The solution is a bit more than just what it looks like. :)