View Full Version : 01 SLS Problems

12-16-08, 12:30 PM
Hello, I am new to this forum as far as a poster but have been reading for several months, and I really enjoy reading about all the info. Then, my 01 SLS started acting up so I then started reading more, but i can't really seem to pinpoint my issues.
First off, I am getting a noise in the engine that is somewhere between a knock and a tick. It sounds like the handle end of a screwdriver tapping on a wooden bench. It is more pronounced when it is cold, but it never goes totally away. From what I can gather on here, it sounds like carbon on the top of the pistons. The car only has 46,000 mi. on it and the last owners were in their 70's. The car was primarily driven by the lady of the house so I really don't know how many WOT's it had. I just bought the car in august with 43,000 miles on it.
Another issue is the fact that sometimes when I get in the car to start it, it will not crank at all. But, if I play with it for a little while it will kick over.
these are just a couple of things, but I would greatly appreciate any info I can get

12-16-08, 12:42 PM
Problem 1 sounds like carbon knock - harmless. For problem 2, look at the battery cables/connections to the battery, maybe?

12-16-08, 01:47 PM
Just replaced battery in Oct. On the positive side, the threaded lead portion had actually come loose from the battery. So I thought, well there's the problem, so I replaced the battery thinking this would cure it and it did for about 2 weeks and then it started again. At the time, all the connections looked good and clean.

12-16-08, 02:46 PM
The '00-03 Seville series had a TSB and warranty fix for faulty ignition switches. Same symptom as you describe: "Occasional no-start condition".

If you have both key fobs (You should have 2 black keys, one gray valet key, and 2 RKE fobs marked 1 & 2), lock and unlock the car with both. Read the owner's manual section on personalization and key recall settings. Now go through the personalization for your key fob number. Start and stop the car to make sure the settings work as entered. Now go through the same drill with the second driver/fob. Have that driver start and stop the car.

You may find that your occasional "no start" has disappeared. If it has not, read the sticky threads at the top of this, Deville, and Northstar Performance to learn how to pull your own Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) from the instrument panel (DIC). You do not need an aftermarket scanner/reader: It's all built in. Read the entire "Cadillac Technical Archive" at the top of the page, black bar.

12-18-08, 09:40 AM
Thanks Sub.... I haven't had a chance to try this yet, but I intend to this weekend. I really appreciate the info. What do you think about the motor noise?

ted tcb
12-18-08, 11:39 AM
Problem 1 sounds like carbon knock - harmless.

What He Said!

Little 'ol lady wouldn't have dropped her into 2nd gear, floored it to
over 6000rpm, let off just before upshift, and allowed engine breaking
to burn off carbon deposits.

Pick a nice, straight, empty stretch of road and perform repeated
WOT's .... I always filled my 2001 STS up with 94 Sunoco octane
when I'd be doing WOT's ... the car definitely had more jump to it.

I'm betting that knocking sound will be history in no time.

12-18-08, 02:56 PM
mdp1970, Go up to the Cadillac Technical Archive, in the black bar ^^^.

Read the whole thing, but for this question, read "Occasional full throttle is good for your engine" (or something close to that...), 4/5 of the way down the list of titles.

I modify the procedure by choosing a long straight stretch of quiet road and begin the WOT with the stick in 2 from a 10 mph rolling start. Put your foot in the firewall and leave it there. The transmission will start in 1 and shift to 2 at redline, and continue toward the 2 - 3 shift point. Just before that, release the gas pedal and let the engine braking pull the car down to the 2 - 1 downshift, then down to about 15 mph. (Don't worry if you miss the 2 - 3 shift: the transmission will upshift anyway, regardless of where the stick is......it won't let you break anything.) Lots of black smoke ? Do it again. As in the Tech Archive, this procedure places maximum heat and load on the engine during acceleration which burns the carbon in the combustion chamber quench area, and then unloads everything during engine braking, allowing the piston rings to rotate and shed carbon.

If you do the procedure, perform 1 with Traction Control ON and the next with it OFF. Notice anything different ??