12-01-08, 01:47 PM
Having sealed the heater core with Bar's aluminium, car came back last night with low water and stood in a big puddle.:canttalk:
I'm about to change the pump or the seals, don't know which yet.
I've done a quick search, and it doesn't sound like a walk in the park from what people have said in the past.
Water pouring over the distributor or whatever they call it these days.
Any advice. 95 5.7 ltr FWB
Help! this car's winning against me...next is a steering leak. Rob
I don't have much experience with the cooling system. But you might be able to temporarily get around the power steering leak by putting in some Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak.
12-10-08, 11:13 AM
The water pump isn't hard to change. A little more complicated if you don't have the dual electrics, but certainly in the realm of the "Shadetree" mechanic. You have to get the air pump stuff off the driver's side, then there are six bolts that hold the pump on. Just drop the lower rad hose to get the coolant out. Take off the bolts, then a quick tap with a soft mallet will get the pump off. Clean up the gasket surfaces with a razor scraper and some cleaner. Transfer your fittings to your new (rebuilt is fine) pump, glue your gaskets on the pump. While that is setting up, clean the bolts, and apply sealer: a couple go into the water jacket. Hold the pump in place, and get the bolts started. Snug them all down (don't know the torque value, and I just tightened mine even though I have an FSM). Reinstall your air pump stuff. Connect all your hoses. Refill your rad. Bleed coolant once full using the little fitting on top of the thermostat housing.
What's the problem with the steering? It is likely caused by the leaking water pump. The pump leaks on the belt, then the belt slips on the steering pump. Fix the water pump, and ta da! the steering is fixed (unless your steering pump is actually leaking, of course...)
LMK if you have more questions...
12-10-08, 03:22 PM
Thanks for that, Yep I'm hoping that it was the water making the steering seem like it was failing.
All done, then the heater core failed again:(
Bar's tec help said forget the aluminum and put in the old brown tablets. I crunched them up and put some straight into the core. The rest into the top hose...all in liquid form.
Touch wood...so far, so good.
12-10-08, 06:33 PM
You need to get all that gunk out of there. Those tablets are terrible for clogging up the system. Drop the hose off the pump, flush out the rad, disconnect the heater core, flush out the hoses, and replace the heater core.
12-11-08, 12:29 AM
Wouldn't you think? Years I wouldn't have dreamed of putting stuff like that into my rad, but having owned an SLS, this site seemed to be dictating an absolute need to put Bar's into even new N* engines.
Anyway, as my other thread shows, I'm still backs against the wall trying to keep up with things failing on this old bus.
Now it's the brakes feeling soft...total rebuild a year ago, they were just another job I put out to someone else. Should'a known.