View Full Version : Major Issues over 75,000 Miles?

11-09-08, 11:59 AM
Thanks for all the input on mmy other thread - 2003 escalage will not start. I had the starter replaced and fetl good about keeping the Escalade. However, a week later my check Engine comes on and the code says - system too lean. Took it to the dealer and they founf a vacuum leak due to crack in my manifold gasket. I am really considering getting rid of her -- has anyone else run into major issues like this around 75000? How about after 75000? Any insight would be appreciated.


11-09-08, 12:15 PM
I have a 136k on mine and it runs like it's got 20k.

11-09-08, 12:24 PM
What sort of repairs have you had to do to keep it running so well? Mine has had no issues until I hit 75000 -- I have spent over $1200 thisa year in repairs so am getting frustrated :)

11-09-08, 12:36 PM
My 2003 has only 90K miles and also runs perfect and I have never repaired anything. I did replace rear brake pads a few years ago - I'm sure the fronts are about due but are still the original pads. As long as decent maintenance is performed, and you don't do a lot of heavy towing, there is no reason the motor and trans should not last at least 200K miles. Many front diff's had bearing issues early on so that is always a potential repair and the transfer case might be another at some point. Both of those are the possible downsides of full time AWD.
I assume your leak was intake manifold gasket which would cause lean condition. It's possible that was just an odd fluke but also could be caused by over heating - has your's ever been over heated?

11-09-08, 12:50 PM
Thanks for the input. it has never been overheated and has always run great. Dealer said the gaskets just go sometimes. Between that and replacing the starter it has been an expensive last couple months... Did you have a thoough maintenance performed at 75000? If so did you use a dealer and what did that cost? The dealer claims that everything else looks great although they told me that a few weeks ago then the gasket blows :)

11-09-08, 08:41 PM
I do most of my maintenance myself, oil and other lube changes, although after about 50 years of doing it, laying on a concrete floor is not as fun as it used to be. I had a dealer do one or two trans fluid changes, and had the coolant and brake fluid flushed and filled about a year ago. I only use synthetic lubes in all of my cars, trucks and bikes.

11-10-08, 02:43 PM

I like your way of thinking, going synthetic with all lubes.

I bought my ESV used and planing on changing all the fluids.

Had read that it was important to change the transfer case oil, and was wondering when I saw this link if that is something others had also done. It had mentioned doing it at about the 75k miles due to the AWD. Any feedback?

Also thinking about changing the power steering fluid, it makes some noise when I turn. did you do that to yours and is so what did you use?


11-10-08, 03:33 PM
Synthetic oils are the only way to go, not only will they give you better fuel mileage, in many cases it will all your truck to perform better and last longer. Very important is to change the front and rear diff oil every 20k to 25k, that will help them last longer. I have many customers with well over 100k on their trucks and still going strong

11-10-08, 04:37 PM
Thanks for the input HC. Do you have a list of everything that should be checked replaced at 75000? I am pretty clueless with this stuff so just don't want the dealer to take advantage of me. From your experience should I be concerned that I had a starter and intake gasket go out already? Also, what brand of synthetic have you found to be the best. Again, I really appreciate your insight!!

11-10-08, 08:45 PM
Follow hcvone's advice - all the years I've been reading here he's had the good words. Any good quality synthetic oil or lube is well worth the money. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my Escalade and Corvettes. I build offshore race boat motors and use Redline Synthetic in all the boat motors and in my motorcycles. There is no best oil, as long as it's a quality brand it should be fine. Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Valvoline and many others are excellent lubes. Check with dealer on the transfer case - there are different GM spec lubes depending on the year vehicle and I don't remember which years are what.

Scott in Milwaukee
11-10-08, 10:44 PM
Well, I took "Super Big Pimpin" to the dealer this morning to have a few things checked as my 100,000-mile warranty is about to expire on my '03 ESV. I told the service writer that I detected a slight growl or hum at 40-45 mph as I would lightly decelerate and accelerate and I mean very lightly. I thought at first the sound was the radiator fan but the engine speed did not fluctuate as I rolled on and off of the throttle because the torque convertor was not being commanded to lock and unlock during my test. The verdict is in............new differential carrier is needed. Major repair indeed. I would definitely take any vehicle that is still under warranty to the dealer and complain of a noise at 40mph as you roll on and off of the throttle. Sounds like the front diff is weak or is outfitted with subpar bearings. Fluid changes every 20K sound good to me.

Engine and Trans - GM V8's are really bulletproof to 250-350K miles, IF maintained. I always changed the motor oil every 3K with regular oil and now every 5K with synthetic. Just don't overheat the motor. The RWD and FWD transmissions are the best on the market IMHO. Just change the fluid and filter every 50,000 or so. When towing heavier loads, the trans will tend to downshift as necessary going up hills. That should tell you to put the gear selector in D or 3rd gear. You may want to slow down a bit but your trans will run cooler because the torque convertor will stay locked up.

Flushing the brake fluid every 2 years can prevent the steel brake lines from rusting from the inside out.

Good luck out there. I'm psyched to have an ESV as my company car!!!!

11-11-08, 03:31 AM
The thing is, if your rig is paid for it doesn't matter if you dump $1,200 or even $5,000 into the car. It's cheaper than buying an new one and you're not blowing money on finance charges. Pay the car off, keep it maintained, have a coke and a smile and keep steppin' :)

Everything that has moving parts is a maintenance issue in your life. This is true for hot tubs, pools, cars, Xbox's, women, furnaces...it's all going to cost you money at one point or another. You just fix it and move on. And just like women, it's usually cheaper to fix the problem and keep 'it' around than to trade it in for a new model.

Lu Scola
11-11-08, 04:00 AM
Fix it and keep her!

11-11-08, 09:43 AM
Thanks for all the great input everyone!! I had everything fixed and now plan to have all the oil changed to synthetic based on all this input. Is 5K for oil changes w/synthetic the norm if the Escalade is my daily driver?

11-11-08, 02:24 PM
Thanks for all the great input everyone!! I had everything fixed and now plan to have all the oil changed to synthetic based on all this input. Is 5K for oil changes w/synthetic the norm if the Escalade is my daily driver?

They claim you can get 6k with synthetic. Meh...between 4-5k is my change interval.

11-11-08, 02:41 PM
I've got 80k miles on my 03 with no problems. I change my oil with synthetic every 3,000 miles. I also change my front diff with synthetic every year in June just before I drive to Florida for vacation.

Other than that I change all other gear boxes every other year with synthetic. Mine is also stored indoors which I think helps a lot with the lifespan of a vehicle.

07-12-10, 03:01 PM
Just about to turn 75,000 on my ticker. I am due for an oil change pretty badly and another rotation on my 24's to keep the tires wearing perfectly. I had the diffs flushed about 10k's ago so they are good. I am getting a weird creaking type sound from my front left brake when i am coming to a slow stop? Any ideas here? Anything else I need to be overly concerned with when I bring the truck into the dealer?

07-17-10, 10:30 AM
The big thing about synthetic fluid is that it doesn't 'break down' or lose viscosity like conventional fluid does. Conventional oil (if left in for too long) would eventually feel almost like water, whereas synthetic would still feel like oil is supposed to.