: '05 Escalade NO HEAT!



scott367
10-28-08, 05:50 PM
Yesterday The heat went out in my '05 escalade. No air blows when the heat or AC is on. If you start driving fast hot a little hot air will be blown through the heater core into the car, but not enough to heat the car. Looks like the fan is bad. Any suggestions? I checked the fuse marked "Blower" it is good - is that even the fuse that goes to the fan?

umoms
01-12-09, 10:49 AM
i have a similar problem. Did you ever figure this out?

scott367
01-12-09, 10:52 AM
I did figure it out. First off, check the rear heat. Mine worked fine, it is a seperate blower motor. Then I pulled the blower motor out, it's very easy to do. And I hooked it up to the battery and it worked fine, after that I found that the blower motor control unit was bad.

umoms
01-12-09, 11:20 AM
My rear works fine..What do you mean by control unit? The control in the dash? Or do you mean the resistor? Where is that located

scott367
01-12-09, 11:26 AM
I have no idea how mch it would cost to get the dealer to replace it. I went to the dealer and paid $120 for the part. It goes under the passenger side dash. Pretty easy to get to.

redsoxnation5
01-18-09, 02:35 AM
I have a similar problem, except there's no heat in the rear as well. So where's the blower motor and how can I get it out?
:worship:

scott367
01-19-09, 09:47 AM
Your problem is different, there are two seperate blower motors. It is highly unlikely that they both went bad. Try to turn the rear heat on from the front, then try to turn the rear heat on from the beack seat. If those don't work, I don't know, it might be an HVAC control unit.

scott367
01-19-09, 09:55 AM
UMOMS - There are no resistors in the system, there is the HVAC control unit, that is the thing with the display in the dash that you turn the air on from. It is possible that is bad. Then there is also a Blower Motor control unit which is mounted right by the fan. It is a little black box that controls the speed of the fan. The escalade is a lot more complicated then a typical car that just has power comming out and resistors to adjust the speed of the fan.

smartmoney
01-21-09, 12:05 PM
My 04 has had the blower fan stop for both the heat and AC. I removed the black panel under the glove box and have tapped the blower motor with a rubber mallet as suggested in other posts regarding this issue, however this doesn't work.

When I turn on the heat there is a constant clicking coming from the blower motor like its trying to open the vent or something but I've had no luck.

Any suggestions?

scott367
01-21-09, 12:08 PM
Pull the fan out, it is very easy to do. I think there is one screw holding it in. Then you just twist the whole fan and it comes out. Then hook the fan directly up to the battery. See if the fan spins. Carefull doing this though, make sure your holding the fan tight while you apply power. I tried this with the fan sitting on the engine and when the fan started to spin it shot across the engine.

smartmoney
01-21-09, 06:29 PM
I got the fan out, there actually was no screws. I also removed the small black rectangle with the two small silver plates coming out of it that is connected by two wires (purple and black).

I cut those wires (leaving room to resplice them) and connected each lead from the connector on the fan to the battery and the fan worked fine.

Is the small black rectangle with the two leads what needs to be replaced?

Thank-you.

smartmoney
01-22-09, 02:14 PM
Thank-you for your help. I replaced the little black rectangular module next to the blower and now everything is back in good running order.

I found it online for $60.00 plus shipping, called the local Cadillac dealer, they wanted $120.00 and wouldn't reduce the price, called the local GMAC dealer and they gave it to me for $90.00 including tax.

Also found in this forum how to shut up the voice that says "phone Unavailable". I just unplugged everything in the Onstar module behind the glove box (4 Connections) and now she's gone. Everything else still works fine.

Great Forum ! Glad I fixed it myself. Thanks again.:cool2:

scott367
01-22-09, 02:35 PM
Glad my problem could help, I got the part from my local dealer for $120, I found it online for $90 but it was used. It is a common part that goes bad, so I figured just get it right away and pay $30 more.

This whole fix could have easily been 2 hours trouble shooting + 1 hour to replace the part + $120 for the part. You probably saved yourself 3 - $400.

satorifound
01-22-09, 08:56 PM
Mine blows, but takes FOREVER to heat up. The rear heat blows too, but takes forever to heat up, if at all. Is it just slow when it is cold? I can warm the car for 20 minutes and it is still freezing when I get in.

scott367
01-23-09, 09:58 AM
You have a completely different problem. I would try to drain all the coolant, then run the car with the coolant flush stuff in it. Then fill it back up with coolant. If that doesn't work, maybe the heater core is bad.

After the car is running for 20 min what does the temp gage read? It might just be the whole engine is not heating up because the thermostat is stuck open.

satorifound
01-23-09, 06:07 PM
You have a completely different problem. I would try to drain all the coolant, then run the car with the coolant flush stuff in it. Then fill it back up with coolant. If that doesn't work, maybe the heater core is bad.

After the car is running for 20 min what does the temp gage read? It might just be the whole engine is not heating up because the thermostat is stuck open.

The temp on the left side reads cold, the temp of what I think is oil, reads warm.

scott367
01-26-09, 09:40 AM
The temp on the left with the little pictuer of the gear is the transmission temp. The temp gauge on the bottom right is the engine, it should warm up to about 240 degrees and stay there.

redsoxnation5
01-26-09, 12:13 PM
Scott367 or smartmoney, do you by any chance have a picture of this black box you're talking about?

redsoxnation5
01-28-09, 01:47 PM
That's the part for less than $60 from amazon:
Amazon.com: ACDelco 15-80567 Control Module Kit: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016IMSB4)
:cloud9:

satorifound
01-28-09, 05:23 PM
You have a completely different problem. I would try to drain all the coolant, then run the car with the coolant flush stuff in it. Then fill it back up with coolant. If that doesn't work, maybe the heater core is bad.

After the car is running for 20 min what does the temp gage read? It might just be the whole engine is not heating up because the thermostat is stuck open.


It does read warm after 20 mins, but the air is cold. We can't drain it right now with all the stinkin' snow out. DH was thinking of bringing it to work and putting it up on a rack.

The new thing is that it blows, then stops blowing, then blows, then stops. Sounds like a loose wire???

jedidiah012
11-10-11, 08:28 PM
So I realize this post is 2 years old, but I have some issues with the rear heat on my 05 Escalade.

The front and rear blower motors work fine, the front heat works well and the coolant temp is normal.

The issue is there is only cold air coming from the rear, no matter how long I wait for it to warm up. Any thoughts? Could this be a stuck flap or bad relay?

Thanks

the cadillac man
11-11-11, 02:02 AM
sounds like a actuator motor is bad cause the front and rear are inline with each other with the rear getting the hottest of the coolant from the engine.

no1tmorrow
01-21-12, 04:43 PM
My cold was not working in the back. I turned everything to cold, front and rear. Unplugged the battery for a few hows. Now my heat works great in the back. The engine did take a little bit to run normal again, that was scary.. But all is great with the rear.

My front however take about 10-20 minutes to blow heat. Anyone have thoughts on that?

the cadillac man
01-22-12, 12:32 AM
Pull the fan out, it is very easy to do. I think there is one screw holding it in. Then you just twist the whole fan and it comes out. Then hook the fan directly up to the battery. See if the fan spins. Carefull doing this though, make sure your holding the fan tight while you apply power. I tried this with the fan sitting on the engine and when the fan started to spin it shot across the engine.i'd love to have seen that it sounds funny and it made me laugh but it does prove the point of holding on to the blower before powering it up.

----------


My cold was not working in the back. I turned everything to cold, front and rear. Unplugged the battery for a few hows. Now my heat works great in the back. The engine did take a little bit to run normal again, that was scary.. But all is great with the rear.

My front however take about 10-20 minutes to blow heat. Anyone have thoughts on that?what you did was recalbrite both front and rear hvac systems when you removed the battery along with erasing the idle position in the engine computer hence the engine having to relearn it's idle which takes about five mins to fully relearn now as far as the front blower taking it's time to work it can be either the module or the blower try to bench test the blower and see if it works if yes then you have to replace the control module that works the blower should right next to the blower.