: Escalade Oil Change w/photos



Patrick7997
10-18-08, 10:19 AM
Admittedly, for some of you, you know how to do this, and it would be a waste of time.

For others, I'm sure you are perfectly happy paying people to do these things.

You guys can move on.

However, if there is anyone here who would like to change his/her own oil, and doesn't know how, and was afraid to ask, keep reading....

Keep in mind, the pictures and descriptions are of a 2004 Escalade AWD, 6.0 liter V8, Vin N... If you're not sure, the 8th character in your Vin is your Engine code.

Now, for me personally, I am capable of sliding under the truck and doing this in the garage. If you feel you need the front of the truck on ramps, by all means, feel free to do that. I did this service and took the pictures with the truck on level ground in my garage. To be honest, the worst part is sliding under the running boards. After you get under there, there's plenty of room. Is it easier on ramps?? Yes. Necessary? Not really.

A few things you will need:

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07879.jpg

This is looking from the front passenger side into the engine bay. You will see the oil cap. Remove it. You will also need a 15mm wrench, get that handy now too.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07880.jpg

You will also need an oil filter wrench (the round thing in the picture), an AC PF46 Oil Filter, and a 3/8ths drive to turn the oil filter wrench.

A note about the oil filter: my owners manual states PF44. However, the AC Website says PF 46. Also, the dealership I bought this from had a PF 46 on it. I presume the PF 44 has been superceded by the PF46. I went with the PF 46. If I'm wrong, please correct me, before I ruin my truck.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07889.jpg

You will also need this, 6 quarts of 5w30. I use Mobil One. This is not the time to start another oil thread, so if you want to substitute Amsoil, Rotella 5w40 synthetic, Royal Purple, Wal Mart Super Tech, whatever, feel free.

You also need some kind of oil drain pan. Everyone has their own preferences, and they can be bought in a myriad of designs at auto parts stores. Some prefer a big yellow radiator pan. Bigger is usually better. You can decide that for yourself.

Note, I prefer to do this when the truck is warm. You get better oil drainage. Not that you HAVE to do it warm, but I prefer to...

Now then, lets slide under the truck, I usually go right under the driver's door, and move in. Start looking right down the middle of the truck, somewhat towards the front... You are looking for something like this:

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07881.jpg

I am basically under my driver's seat, looking towards the front of the truck, and towards the centerline of the truck. You can see there your oil plug, and your oil filter. Don't panic, we're going to get the wrench out now...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07882.jpg

Again, that's a 15mm wrench, you can see it there on the drain bolt...

Another quick note: if idiot techs (or more likely, the previous owner) have bunged up, damaged, rounded out, or otherwise abused your oil drain bolt, you may want to get a new one NOW, before you start... That way, when it's time to replace the bolt, you can throw your new one on there.

Some people think that vise grips are what you use to remove the oil drain bolt. NOT true!!! Do the world a favor and use the right size wrench...

Remove that bolt. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove.

Oil will begin draining. Initially, the flow will be very strong, position your drain pan accordingly...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07883.jpg

As you can see, that's a gusher....

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07884.jpg

The flow will slow as the crankcase drains... You may have to move your drain pan, to stay under the flow of oil, so be prepared to do that if necessary.... unless you like oil slicks in your garage...

The flow will eventually be just a trickle or slow drip. If you wait forever, or get a phone call while it's draining, you may actually see it stop completely, although that's not really necessary... When it slows to a trickle, replace your drain bolt.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07885.jpg

Now we will replace the filter. You obviously saw the blue thing in the previous pictures... that's your oil filter. If you take your PF 46 out of the box, you will see, that's the blue thing.

In that photo, I have placed the oil filter wrench over the end of it. Ahh, those come in a myriad of sizes. While you are at the parts place buying your oil filter, go ahead and try the ones they are selling on your oil filter, to make sure you're buying the right one, if necessary. They will not care. Everybody does that.

Also, you will see that I have attached the 3/8ths drive to the square end of that. There's also a "six-sided" bolt style thing on the bottom of some... you can do it that way too. I prefer the ratchet handle.

Crank the oil filter off, again, turning counter clockwise. Your pan should be under that. Oil will start coming out when you do this....

It will get loose after a turn or so, and you can finish by hand if you like.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07886.jpg

Filter is off. See that metal area above, it's circular?? Where the filter gasket meets the metal?? Make sure that's clean. Also, make sure that the rubber gasket did not "stick" to that... It's rare, but can happen. If it's stuck there, and you spin a new filter on, you will have the dreaded "double gasket", which is to be avoided. That will leak HEAVILY when you start the truck....

It's rare... But it can happen. If yours looks like this picture, you are fine.

Spin the new filter on. When it's hand tight, use the filter wrench again to crank it on maybe another 1/2 turn or so, maybe as much as 7/8ths of a turn, depending on how strong your hands are, and how tight "hand tight" means to you. You are NOT cranking this on until it won't turn. What you are trying to do is seat that rubber gasket, and compress it some. Friends of mine are very cabable of doing it by hand only. When my hands are slippery with oil, I can't do it, I use the wrench. A decent guideline is when the gasket is fully in contact with the mating surface, go 7/8ths to 1 turn from there...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07887.jpg

New filter in place. Nice. Make sure it's wiped nice and clean like this, so that if it does leak, you can see that right away...

To review, we have drained the oil and replaced the drain plug. We have replaced the filter, and it is now on tight.

Congrats!! You're getting close. Let's go back up topside.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07888.jpg

I like to use a decent size funnel... You can see it there, in the oil fill tube....

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07890.jpg

Pour your 6 quarts of oil in there....

Remove the funnel, replace the oil cap, start the truck.

Run the truck for 30 seconds or so, and while it's running, check for leaks. You are looking carefully at the oil plug, and the oil filter. You will probably see no leaks.

Shut the truck off and check the oil. For mine, 6 quarts was perfecto, right at the full mark on the dipstick.

Hey, guess what?? You're done!!

This may have taken awhile, and that's fine. After you do it a few times, this can easily be done in 40 minutes...

Now, find some way to enjoy all the money you just saved.

urbanski
10-18-08, 10:37 AM
sweet :)

jcmendo01
10-18-08, 04:46 PM
Do we have to do anything with resetting the oil change me back to 100%?

JD001249
10-18-08, 04:48 PM
Awesome. Thanks for the info! I may just have to try this myself, $70+ for an oil change is getting obnoxious!

Lu Scola
10-18-08, 05:32 PM
I change my own oil also. Walmart has the best prices on oil. I buy the 5 quart bottles for 15 and an extra quart for 2.35. The oil filter is under 3.00.

Synthetic is 20 at walmart. I have the Valvoline (SYN Power) Fully Synthetic. My oil changes cost me 25 bucks and 20 minutes of my time.

When done the oil change you can reset the oil life meter by using the buttons on your steering wheel. Its very easy.

Great write up Patrick!

Patrick7997
10-18-08, 06:51 PM
Thanks...

That was a good question about the oil life index.

I don't have it in front of me, but press the buttons to bring up the oil life index. If I change mine at 3000 miles, I generally have 50% to 60% oil life remaining....

With the oil life on the screen, press and hold the "return" key, the one with the arrow on it. Same one that resets the average miles per gallon. It's in the lower right of the steering wheel.

Keep holding it. It takes a few seconds, but then the 55% number (or whatever) will turn into "XXX", and sit there.

Some things might start dinging.... the wrench symbol might light up on the dash... I haven't really payed super close attention, but a lot seems to be happening on the dash while this happens. I'm usually just watching the XXX number, waiting for it to be 100...

Don't panic.

As you keep holding that button, eventually the oil life number will become "100%" again... Now you can let go of the button.

And it's reset!

Forgot to mention that, sorry.

Spittin Game
10-18-08, 07:37 PM
Great write up!

dstinson
10-18-08, 10:21 PM
o my... a tutorial on how to change your oil??? (very detailed by the way) What can i expect next, how to change a tire? If you cannot change your oil, I believe we need to start revoking man cards.

ESCALADOR
10-18-08, 10:37 PM
o my... a tutorial on how to change your oil??? (very detailed by the way) What can i expect next, how to change a tire? If you cannot change your oil, I believe we need to start revoking man cards.

lol!! I agree, I have never had anyone change my oil in my cars/trucks...Well exept when my boy worked for Goodyear and would slide it in for free!!:thumbsup:

Bart
10-18-08, 11:12 PM
lol!! I agree, I have never had anyone change my oil in my cars/trucks...Well exept when my boy worked for Goodyear and would slide it in for free!!:thumbsup:

Thats a Roger...Roger.

Here is my oil change tutorial....loosen bolt that looks like oil plug, let drain, remove thing that looks like an oil filter...fill new one with oil...put it on...replace drain plug...fill with oil. 5 minutes later...you are done. :beat:

Patrick7997
10-20-08, 09:04 AM
Didn't I say at the beginning, if you already know how to do this, you could skip it??

Everyone has a different level of expertise.... Everyone has had different life experiences... Let's not flame people who aren't ASE Certifed Masters...

bigksone
10-20-08, 09:26 AM
Didn't I say at the beginning, if you already know how to do this, you could skip it??

Everyone has a different level of expertise.... Everyone has had different life experiences... Let's not flame people who aren't ASE Certifed Masters...

Putting that disclaimer at the beginning was a good idea. I've been changing my own oil for a long time, but I still chose to read the post. I think you did a very good job. The info and pictures should be enough to help a first timer get the job done.:thumbsup:

ml05
10-20-08, 10:27 AM
Yes thanks for the post very detailed information! As I have always had guys do my oil change for me I will have to try myself to change my own oil!
Melissa

fierodough
10-20-08, 10:47 AM
Why are people knocking this guy's post?? :hmm:

He took the time to take pictures and give detailed instructions. Time he is not getting paid for. If you already know how to change your oil, then good for you. Some people don't and appreciate the effort.

Will you complain if this person works his way up to replacing a head gasket?? Maybe you will need his pictures and how to then.

anyhow, that's my opinion. Thank for your hard work, we appreciate it. :)

hcvone
10-20-08, 11:46 AM
Patrick, nice post for the owners who change their own oil, making this a sticky

JOHNNYRENO
10-22-08, 02:47 PM
nice write up , there is one trhing you forgot, you must coat the new oil filters rubber gasket with fresh oil, this is very important to prevent leaks. not bashing though.

stilez
10-23-08, 10:36 AM
Awesome post! Thank you.

Ra0035
10-31-08, 09:22 PM
What do you do with the old oil?

JOHNNYRENO
11-03-08, 09:04 PM
mix the old oil with vaseline. :alchi:

Patrick7997
11-05-08, 09:05 AM
Funny you should ask.... my environmentally concious girlfriend says the other day "you should have said what you do with the old oil."

The old oil should be disposed of properly.

Heh heh. Seriously, I have several 5-gallon gas cans that I pour the waste oil into, from the drain pan. When the 5-gallon jugs are full of waste oil, I take them to my village "recycling center" (some of us used to call that a dump, but whatever), and they have a large tank you can pour waste oil into.

Also, in Wisconsin, I am told that it's the law that oil change places and service garages MUST take the waste oil from you. Now, law or not, if you go in and ask nicely, they'll take it. They get paid something for waste oil, I am told, or at the very least, the companies come and pick it up for free....

Don't put waste oil in empty milk cartons!!! The plastic will break down, and you will have a spill.... I'm speaking from experience here.

Seriously though, I've seen people drive the car up to a storm drain and pull the oil plug.... don't do that. I've seen people throwing waste oil in dumpsters.... don't do that. It takes such a microscopic effort to do the right thing... and you'll feel infinitely better about yourself....

8ball
12-24-08, 10:01 AM
Great post, had one question? Do you have to tighten the oil drain plug to a certain torqe spec?

KrazyKeith
01-10-09, 03:00 PM
Thanks for this thread, I agree its common sense, BUT, every car/truck/suv IS different, Nice to have photos and the what not to have a clue diggin in for the 1'st time (on the escalade)

Got my 1'st oil change none no problem other then spilling some of the old oil on myself (LOL)
Even got the oil life % reset 1-2-3!

Love this forum!

:)

hcvone
01-15-09, 01:58 PM
Great post, had one question? Do you have to tighten the oil drain plug to a certain torqe spec?

There is a torque spec of 18 ft lbs, but I have always just made it tight, and not overtight

8ball
02-01-09, 03:34 PM
There is a torque spec of 18 ft lbs, but I have always just made it tight, and not overtight


Thanks!

petercoolz
02-05-09, 04:51 PM
Thanks for the post. I've never changed oil before, and I'll refer to this when for the next time my car needs it.

Qhammer37
02-13-09, 03:32 AM
Admittedly, for some of you, you know how to do this, and it would be a waste of time.

For others, I'm sure you are perfectly happy paying people to do these things.

You guys can move on.

However, if there is anyone here who would like to change his/her own oil, and doesn't know how, and was afraid to ask, keep reading....

Keep in mind, the pictures and descriptions are of a 2004 Escalade AWD, 6.0 liter V8, Vin N... If you're not sure, the 8th character in your Vin is your Engine code.

Now, for me personally, I am capable of sliding under the truck and doing this in the garage. If you feel you need the front of the truck on ramps, by all means, feel free to do that. I did this service and took the pictures with the truck on level ground in my garage. To be honest, the worst part is sliding under the running boards. After you get under there, there's plenty of room. Is it easier on ramps?? Yes. Necessary? Not really.

A few things you will need:

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07879.jpg

This is looking from the front passenger side into the engine bay. You will see the oil cap. Remove it. You will also need a 15mm wrench, get that handy now too.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07880.jpg

You will also need an oil filter wrench (the round thing in the picture), an AC PF46 Oil Filter, and a 3/8ths drive to turn the oil filter wrench.

A note about the oil filter: my owners manual states PF44. However, the AC Website says PF 46. Also, the dealership I bought this from had a PF 46 on it. I presume the PF 44 has been superceded by the PF46. I went with the PF 46. If I'm wrong, please correct me, before I ruin my truck.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07889.jpg

You will also need this, 6 quarts of 5w30. I use Mobil One. This is not the time to start another oil thread, so if you want to substitute Amsoil, Rotella 5w40 synthetic, Royal Purple, Wal Mart Super Tech, whatever, feel free.

You also need some kind of oil drain pan. Everyone has their own preferences, and they can be bought in a myriad of designs at auto parts stores. Some prefer a big yellow radiator pan. Bigger is usually better. You can decide that for yourself.

Note, I prefer to do this when the truck is warm. You get better oil drainage. Not that you HAVE to do it warm, but I prefer to...

Now then, lets slide under the truck, I usually go right under the driver's door, and move in. Start looking right down the middle of the truck, somewhat towards the front... You are looking for something like this:

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07881.jpg

I am basically under my driver's seat, looking towards the front of the truck, and towards the centerline of the truck. You can see there your oil plug, and your oil filter. Don't panic, we're going to get the wrench out now...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07882.jpg

Again, that's a 15mm wrench, you can see it there on the drain bolt...

Another quick note: if idiot techs (or more likely, the previous owner) have bunged up, damaged, rounded out, or otherwise abused your oil drain bolt, you may want to get a new one NOW, before you start... That way, when it's time to replace the bolt, you can throw your new one on there.

Some people think that vise grips are what you use to remove the oil drain bolt. NOT true!!! Do the world a favor and use the right size wrench...

Remove that bolt. Turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove.

Oil will begin draining. Initially, the flow will be very strong, position your drain pan accordingly...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07883.jpg

As you can see, that's a gusher....

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07884.jpg

The flow will slow as the crankcase drains... You may have to move your drain pan, to stay under the flow of oil, so be prepared to do that if necessary.... unless you like oil slicks in your garage...

The flow will eventually be just a trickle or slow drip. If you wait forever, or get a phone call while it's draining, you may actually see it stop completely, although that's not really necessary... When it slows to a trickle, replace your drain bolt.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07885.jpg

Now we will replace the filter. You obviously saw the blue thing in the previous pictures... that's your oil filter. If you take your PF 46 out of the box, you will see, that's the blue thing.

In that photo, I have placed the oil filter wrench over the end of it. Ahh, those come in a myriad of sizes. While you are at the parts place buying your oil filter, go ahead and try the ones they are selling on your oil filter, to make sure you're buying the right one, if necessary. They will not care. Everybody does that.

Also, you will see that I have attached the 3/8ths drive to the square end of that. There's also a "six-sided" bolt style thing on the bottom of some... you can do it that way too. I prefer the ratchet handle.

Crank the oil filter off, again, turning counter clockwise. Your pan should be under that. Oil will start coming out when you do this....

It will get loose after a turn or so, and you can finish by hand if you like.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07886.jpg

Filter is off. See that metal area above, it's circular?? Where the filter gasket meets the metal?? Make sure that's clean. Also, make sure that the rubber gasket did not "stick" to that... It's rare, but can happen. If it's stuck there, and you spin a new filter on, you will have the dreaded "double gasket", which is to be avoided. That will leak HEAVILY when you start the truck....

It's rare... But it can happen. If yours looks like this picture, you are fine.

Spin the new filter on. When it's hand tight, use the filter wrench again to crank it on maybe another 1/2 turn or so, maybe as much as 7/8ths of a turn, depending on how strong your hands are, and how tight "hand tight" means to you. You are NOT cranking this on until it won't turn. What you are trying to do is seat that rubber gasket, and compress it some. Friends of mine are very cabable of doing it by hand only. When my hands are slippery with oil, I can't do it, I use the wrench. A decent guideline is when the gasket is fully in contact with the mating surface, go 7/8ths to 1 turn from there...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07887.jpg

New filter in place. Nice. Make sure it's wiped nice and clean like this, so that if it does leak, you can see that right away...

To review, we have drained the oil and replaced the drain plug. We have replaced the filter, and it is now on tight.

Congrats!! You're getting close. Let's go back up topside.

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07888.jpg

I like to use a decent size funnel... You can see it there, in the oil fill tube....

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m118/Patrick7997/DSC07890.jpg

Pour your 6 quarts of oil in there....

Remove the funnel, replace the oil cap, start the truck.

Run the truck for 30 seconds or so, and while it's running, check for leaks. You are looking carefully at the oil plug, and the oil filter. You will probably see no leaks.

Shut the truck off and check the oil. For mine, 6 quarts was perfecto, right at the full mark on the dipstick.

Hey, guess what?? You're done!!

This may have taken awhile, and that's fine. After you do it a few times, this can easily be done in 40 minutes...

Now, find some way to enjoy all the money you just saved.

Thank you! I saved $80 and can use that for a present for my wife on valentines day!!:D

bummy54130
02-24-09, 12:56 PM
I already know how to do it. But let me tell you how many people are crazy happy for this. The pictures and write ups are great. I wish that there were more people like you.

OCESCALADE
03-09-09, 10:21 PM
Great post! I have been changing my oil on my cars for 25 years. The oiling the gasket on the new filter is a must and I always use Latex gloves which helps against dirty hands and also helps you to hand tighten the oil filter. Never use a filter wrench or any tool too tighten an oil filter period. In California you have to buy oil catch basins which Parts stores sells and are a good idea as they can usually hold about 4 oil changes. Places that accept used oil will not accept oil in plastic milk jugs or radiator jugs only the approved catch basins. Also since i do use a jack to lift my car always use jack stands and I always leave the jack holding some pressure of the car just in case a jack stand fails or shoots out as extra insurance. :):):)

LuvMyTJ
03-12-09, 11:55 PM
Someone asked about resetting the oil life meter. I turned my key to the "on" position and stepped on the gas pedal 3 times. Thats it, it will go back to 100% life.

PS - why the heck is the oil filter so damn small? A 6 quart engine should have a minimum of a 1/2 quart filter, preferably a full quart filter. Once that teeny tiny filter plugs up, the dirty oil go through the bypass right back into your motor completely unfiltered.

wahine
04-15-09, 01:41 PM
THAT WAS AWESOME!!!! i learned so much. the details are stupendous, and humorous. i needed them. Thank YOU. im a woman without a teacher and i will be looking to all your posts for more wealth. aloha.

cd24747
04-22-09, 02:45 PM
This is an excellent post. Thank you so much. Don't listen to anyone who critisizes you for helping others out (especially at no cost). I am always looking to learn how to work on my vehicles because I enjoy it and it saves alot of money. If you know how to do other things please post them. I imagin that you have helped alot of people out. Thank you again.

Reg23
11-27-09, 10:19 PM
Appreciate the guide!

RiceEaterZ
03-01-10, 01:32 AM
the pf44 was indeed superseded by the pf46. I am aware this thread is a few years old, Good write up; The pf46 is the same filter used on my camaro, It's fine to use on the 6.0 lq9 since its designed after the ls1 but imo it wouldn't be a bad idea to take advantage of the deeper oil pan on the lac' and use a larger oil filter, something like a napa gold (wix) 1522(fits gm 5.3,5.7,6.0 etc), the ac delco equiv. would prob. be a pf59 but those are very hard to find since they were phased out and are being substituted by gm with the pf46 lol.

pcguy760
03-21-10, 02:57 AM
Hey guys did anyone try Castrol Edge? Apparently it suppose to be THE BEST motor oil lol - at almost $8 a qt...


http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp153/greenaccord02/1.jpg


And no I do not work for Castrol and am not a oil whore either lol.

agapeEscalade
09-10-10, 07:05 PM
Great Post.
Thank you

fernandito7
11-17-10, 07:18 PM
Do you have to replace the oil drain plug gasket as well? When i had my 07 tahoe i used to change the oil myself and would tighten the drain plug very well but occasionally it would leak very and i mean very small drips of oil every now and then. Should the gasket be changed or replace the drain plug with a new one every time?

LACbaby
12-31-10, 09:23 PM
Someone asked about resetting the oil life meter. I turned my key to the "on" position and stepped on the gas pedal 3 times. Thats it, it will go back to 100% life.

.


I did this and now I have 5 blinking "oil changes" it does NOT reset! What did I do? And what is my 2002 Lac telling me? I do not have a oil life meter in my truck to reset. ANY HELP? Thank you!

isaacroda
03-07-11, 03:42 PM
I know this is an old thread at this point, but just so you know I found it very helpful a year and a half after it was posted. Thank you!

ESV_Platinum
03-28-11, 08:37 PM
I just bought a lot of Pennzoil 10W-40 to replace the oil in my escalade, should I go return it for the 5W-30??


edit: just read through the manual, 10W-40 is NOT recommended for the 2004 Escalade ESV....taking it back and replacing with either 5W-30

ESV_Platinum
03-29-11, 07:09 PM
anyone have an idea what the oil filter torque should be?

jnrsesv
04-08-11, 01:10 PM
anyone have an idea what the oil filter torque should be?

One full twist after filter gasket makes contact with engine block.

zogg
06-19-11, 09:40 AM
Great write up....I just bought an 06 Escalade, and I always to all the work on my vehicles....just do not trust some of those so-called mechanics. NOw I can proceed to the 1st oil change with confidence, the right filter and the correct tools....saved me at least three times of crawling under the truck. Thanks
Dave

cpmet200
07-12-11, 11:10 PM
thank you for sharing!

Rigger33
08-07-11, 09:14 AM
New guy here, Thanks!

TRosell14843
09-19-11, 01:41 AM
Can wait to do it myself. I have done them before on another car but thank you VERY much for the pictures! Helps me as a lade newbie.

Tim 06 platinum esv . ie. the beast in the east.

openbottle
12-16-11, 09:19 AM
Compliments to Patrick for an excellent job. I also have done my own and some neighbors oil changes for years but still respect the effort Patrick put forth to help others. To all those with criticism if they are so smart why were they on here looking up information.

Stewmeistr
11-21-12, 11:03 AM
Ok, sorry if a dumb addition here. Just got an 04 ESV... I have an 06 CTS V with the 6.0L and it calls for 7 qrts? Soooo, The Escalade calls for only 6 with a deep truck pan? Just don't want to assume anything.
Thanks,
Rob

jnrsesv
11-21-12, 11:32 AM
Escalade only requires 6 quarts! You can refer to the owners manual as well for capacities.

Cheko
04-06-13, 12:40 AM
Maybe I missed it, but I just looked under my 2010 ESV Platinum and I saw the oil filter but I did not see the oil drain plug. Is it in a different place from the one in the write-up? -thanks

the cadillac man
04-06-13, 12:47 AM
Maybe I missed it, but I just looked under my 2010 ESV Platinum and I saw the oil filter but I did not see the oil drain plug. Is it in a different place from the one in the write-up? -thanks

It may be different due to the different engine ask a dealer to see where it's at

MrHolland
04-06-13, 01:43 AM
Maybe I missed it, but I just looked under my 2010 ESV Platinum and I saw the oil filter but I did not see the oil drain plug. Is it in a different place from the one in the write-up? -thanks
Welcome to the forum!! You're actually in the wrong section for a 2010. Nonetheless, your drain plug is on the passenger side of the oil pan. Keep your drain pan close to the passenger tire. Good luck and welcome to the forum.

Cheko
04-18-13, 05:15 PM
Thanks for the replies. Your replies and this thread were very helpful. I found this thread using search and didn't realize I had strayed to the wrong section. Duly noted.

NutzAboutBolts
07-08-13, 06:10 AM
Here's a video on how to change your 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade! :) Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlc8qN1MfmM

boge
10-18-13, 07:05 AM
Ive been shopping for oil filters for my 04 escalade I'm seeing pf46e and pf46f are these the same replacements can I use them?

chazman62
10-18-13, 12:00 PM
I've been using PF46E for years now with no problem.

rfishoutofwater
10-18-13, 03:14 PM
Been using K&N oil filter hp-1007. It's the best to use as it has a nut on end and is easy to replace.