: Where is oil filter?



tfisher7621
10-08-08, 11:38 AM
I own a 2001 Cadillac Seville and am tired of paying $65 for an oil change every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Please tell me where the access is to my oil filter.

Submariner409
10-08-08, 12:35 PM
Jack up the car using a hydraulic floor jack under the center of the front engine cradle rail. Be very careful to set the jack pad so it does not slip off the cradle rail as the car lifts: the jack arm travels in an arc and will tend to roll the car forward slightly as it lifts the car. Place jackstands under the outer pads at the front corners of the engine cradle, carefully set the car, and remove the jack.

The oil filter is in front of the engine, toward the passenger side, and hangs straight down. When you go to a large parts house for the oil and filter (7.5 quarts of a good brand 5W-30 and a WIX 51522 filter) also pick up a dedicated socket cup which fits the flutes on the filter base. It will make your life much easier.

Drain the oil (plug is a 5/8" (?) maybe 15mm, hex head in the center rear of the oil pan) into a large dishpan and let it drip, warm, for 10 minutes. Then move the pan under the oil filter area and loosen the filter a few turns. A cup or so of oil will drain down from the filter adapter and oil cooler passages. Let that drip for a while.

Clean everything up, make sure the drain plug is tight, and if the spirit moves you, prefill the filter, wet the gasket ring with clean oil and install it. Tighten it about 2/3 - 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the filter adapter flange. You want it tight, but don't get carried away or you'll ruin the filter gasket ring. (Carefully move the pan full of oil out from under the car. Dump it in jugs or an oil carrier jug and dispose of it in a recycling center.) Install the floor jack, raise the car, pull the jackstands and carefully lower the car. Pour in the remainder of the 7.5 quarts of oil (if you prefilled the filter). Start the engine and pay attention to the oil pressure icon in the DIC. It should go out almost immediately. With the engine running look under the front/radiator and make sure there are no leaks. Let the engine run for 5 minutes while you clean up the area. Shut down and let the oil drain back to the pan for a few minutes. Check the dipstick and bring the oil level to halfway up the hashmark or a tad more. If you fill to the top or over the hashmark, a Northstar will burn off that extra half quart in a hurry. Reset the oil life monitor by bringing it up in the DIC and hold down the INFO RESET button for 6 seconds. (Transmission life should read 100% or maybe 99% forever unless you overheat the transmission.)

Piece of cake. You could be done in the time it takes me to hunt and peck this post........;) AND your 2001 Seville will easily go 7,500 miles between oil changes with modern oil and filters.

Playdrv4me
10-08-08, 02:40 PM
You shouldn't have to change the oil that frequently. The Oil Life Monitor on your car is designed with several parameters to determine the best change interval for your car based on things like temperature, engine revolutions and miles driven. It is a waste to change the oil on these cars so frequently as the OLM is not just some afterthought. 3-4k Oil change intervals are acceptable if you live in a very dusty area however.

tfisher7621
10-08-08, 03:01 PM
Submariner409 and Playdrv4me:

I'm sure that info has been posted before. Nevertheless, I really do appreciate you guys taking the time to post that.

BTW, I tried to send this via "private message" but, instead, got a nag message saying I hadn't been a member long enough.

Tom Fisher

Submariner409
10-08-08, 04:34 PM
tfish.......Not to worry: with a 2001 Seville to play with you'll build up your post count quickly. Click on your username and update your personal data with your car, model, and year, like my login ^^^. Makes later answers quicker when those who have the same car get on board......and remember that a forum such as these condenses the problems and forgets the good times, so it all looks pretty negative once in a while.

codewize
10-09-08, 12:30 PM
Ok not to get into this again BUT changing the oil every 3000 miles is actually worse for the car.

It's been proven many a times that oil is actually at it's prime protection level right around that point. There's a reason, actually several reason why the recommended change interval is 10,000 miles.

If you drive the car a little hard like I do I shoot for every 7000.

Don't waste the time and money on such frequency. Also I'd like to add that an oil and filter change on the N* is pretty darn easy compared to some other cars I've done

tfisher7621
10-09-08, 04:08 PM
Ok not to get into this again BUT changing the oil every 3000 miles is actually worse for the car.

It's been proven many a times that oil is actually at it's prime protection level right around that point. There's a reason, actually several reason why the recommended change interval is 10,000 miles.

Thanks. That explains why the oil life monitor in the DIC has always indicated that I have a lot more life left after only 3,000 to 4,000 miles.

Submariner409
10-09-08, 05:07 PM
Like Code says, shoot for 7,000 - 8,000 miles or 1 year between oil/filter changes. Under normal driving conditions, with a fair amount of commuting or road use, the oil life monitor will read about 25% at that mileage. Don't get anal over oil brands, dino or synthetic. Use a name brand of whatever floats your boat in the recommended viscosity - 5W-30 - for your engine. Fill to halfway up the dipstick hashmark. I like WIX 51522 filters.....stay away from Fram or PartsMaster oil filters. Purolator is also good. Google "knize oil filter study".

Once in a while, on a clear highway, drop down to 10 mph, put the stick in 2, and floor it. Let the car shift at 1-2 redline and run up to just about 2 redline (if you overshoot, the car will shift to 3: it will NOT break itself), flip your foot off the gas and let the engine pull the car back down to 10 mph. Lots of smoke and crap on the first run ?? Do it again. It's called a WOT (Wide Open Throttle) run and allows the rings to work loose and rotate as well as blowing the carbon out of the (thin) piston top quench area. Read up on it up in the black area at the top of the main page, in Cadillac Technical Archives. Read the whole Archive......