: 2001 STS motor mount?



speedydog
09-18-08, 10:17 PM
are there issues with motor mounts on these cars, i am noticing when i take off it seems like engine jumps i dont think it is trans cause it shifts fine and if it is mounts how harsd are they to replace?

CadillacSTS42005
09-18-08, 10:30 PM
a search would show yes its common to rip the mount as its the only thing holding the front of the engine down when you nail the gas

speedydog
09-19-08, 09:40 AM
a search would show yes its common to rip the mount as its the only thing holding the front of the engine down when you nail the gas

how hard to change the mount,how do i check to verify its the mount and how much do they cost?

tateos
09-19-08, 03:11 PM
Open the hood - get in the car, start the engine, step on the brake, put it into Drive, step on the gas a little, see if the engine lifts up.

I changed the mount on my 2000 DTS recently - I thought it was a PITA - some people have written that they think it is an easy job

FrankT
09-19-08, 03:21 PM
how hard to change the mount,how do i check to verify its the mount and how much do they cost?

I have to do one on my 99sts, the cost is about 100.00 from Napa or 200.00w/updated heat shield from the dealer.

How hard, not too, drop the front subframe, remove the top and bottom nuts, then remove the the top mount bracket. Then pull the mount out. The hardest thing about the whole job is laying on my acing back! Some say it PITA.

tateos
09-19-08, 03:32 PM
Good one Frank - I forgot about the heat shield. Look at the attached TSB for more info.

I thought finagling that bad boy out and back in place was PITA - like you said, on your back. Guess I'm getting old

codewize
09-19-08, 05:19 PM
It's the mount. You don't even have to check. These mounts are regular maintenance items. Plan on changing it every 20k or so. Even if you don't think it's bad then, trust me, it's starting to fail.

OR you could save yourself all those headaches and ask AJ to make you a solid mount, well worth the money and time.

FrankT
09-20-08, 09:01 PM
Good one Frank - I forgot about the heat shield. Look at the attached TSB for more info.

I thought finagling that bad boy out and back in place was PITA - like you said, on your back. Guess I'm getting old
Thanks for posting the TSB. Ya, I can relate to getting older too! When I was younger I used to live, eat, and sleep cars. Work for 10hrs at the dealership, then come home eat and do a side job or wrench on one of my classics, driver, or wife’s car. Whatever, if it wasn't fixing it was clean and polishing them. Now I'm a service engineer for 8hrs a day, not nearly as stressful as pulling a wrench for 10hrs. Only worry is with the auto industry on the decline, is do I have a job next week or next year? But, I still come home a do an occasional side job. Now, I don't feel much like working on my classics unless they absolutely need attention. And my poor caddy is dirty and needs a motor mount. Anyway, sorry for rambling on, take care.



codewize
OR you could save yourself all those headaches and ask AJ to make you a solid mount, well worth the money and time.

Remenber the days when we used to run a chain from the engine to the frame to keep the motor mount from breaking, after we added about 300hp to the stock engine. You would think a 50K+ car, the motor mounts would not be a regular maintenance item, Sezz, I'm on my 3rd one!

Ranger
09-20-08, 09:57 PM
Remember the days when we used to run a chain from the engine to the frame to keep the motor mount from breaking
I can remember Dealers doing that with steel rope cable on the 283's in the late 60's.

jeffrsmith
09-21-08, 06:02 PM
I had a '65 Chevy BelAire that had a wire rope on the motor mount.

msta293412
09-22-08, 09:33 AM
Even after I put a new one in my car...the engine rocks in there a little more than most cars.....

tateos
09-22-08, 02:58 PM
I just replaced the mount on my 2000, but I suppose I can expect to have it fail again. You guys that mentioned a cable or chain to hold the engine in place - I was thinking the same thing. Seems like you could easily wrap a cable around the cradle and the mount bracket and hold the engine from lifting. Has anyone tried that?

codewize
09-23-08, 12:46 AM
I don't think we done that with a transversely mounted engine. I have a feeling something may get broken.

Many moons ago when we had hi horsepower RWD cars with frames it was pretty easy to find something on the engine to bolt to and pull taunt to the frame rail or engine mount.

FrankT
09-23-08, 08:46 AM
I don't think we done that with a transversely mounted engine. I have a feeling something may get broken.

Many moons ago when we had hi horsepower RWD cars with frames it was pretty easy to find something on the engine to bolt to and pull taunt to the frame rail or engine mount.

True, so what if use one of those plastic coated cables and leave a little slack in it. Give the engine a little movement, but, not as much as the motor mount gives it. I'm thinking less movement is better than too much.

True, if you pull it taunt, you can end up with a vibration. And we all know how sensitive these cars are to harmonic vibrations.

Thoughts?
Reasons why we shouldn't do this?
What do you think the worse case scenario might be?
What do you think could break?


tateos
wrap a cable around the cradle Then bolt the other end to the upper motor mount brace?

It would be nice to extend the life of our motor mounts without causing damage to and or adding/intensifying a viberation to the vehicle.

Submariner409
09-23-08, 11:35 AM
With a bit of American wrenching ingenuity it is entirely possible to use any one of several flexible "engine hold-downs". The entire engine/transmission assembly rotates "back" toward the windshield when power is applied. Down under and in front of the assembly, over the removable splash shield, is the oil filter and next to it, the front motor mount bracket. There must be a way, and I fully intend to look, not now but sometime this fall, for a way to do a hold-down.

Any small to medium private airfield or sailboat rigging shop can quickly fabricate stainless cable with a variety of end fittings - eyes, clevis pins, ball studs. Chain is an alternative but may rattle. A good s/s turnbuckle is also an option. The engine is flex mounted to a cradle which is flex mounted to the underbody. A solid motor mount, while it immobilizes the front (radiator side) of the engine, does not tie the engine to the car body, only to the cradle, so vibration is minimal.

For the Sevilles without the dogbone struts there is precious little space or "meat" up on the engine top to tie anything up there to the front radiator crossbrace. The strut towers are cocked away from the engine at an odd angle, so no joy there either. You're stuck with tying the "front" of the engine down. You can't break anything......you're just applying torque directly to the cradle instead of twisting off motor mounts.

The ultimate trick would be to use 5/16" aircraft cable and tie the engine to the vehicle subframe, leaving just enough slack so as not to transmit vibration, but enough that the cable would tighten with just more than normal acceleration torque.