: I put some subs in my Seville this weekend



Lowtrac
08-25-08, 11:09 AM
It's a pair of JL 10's powered by a Kenwood amp. The amp has speaker level inputs with a gain control so I wired it straight up to the wires going to the Bose subwoofer, which I unhooked. Ground wire goes to an upper shock mount bolt, and power comes from the tap next to the fuse block. Remote power comes from fuse #12. Here's some pics:

http://picasaweb.google.com/lowtrac/CadillacSubs

Renew82
08-26-08, 09:55 PM
Very nice. I just bought a 03 seville sts last week and was wanting to add a sub as I find the factory system weak in the bass dept. Question, does the factory sub have the amp on top of it or is it somewhere else in the car? For the wiring on the factory sub, which wire is + and which is -

Thanks.

Sean

Lowtrac
08-29-08, 12:40 PM
The amp is seperate from the factory sub. As far as wiring color, I noticed a small red dot on the plug on the factory sub and assumed that was the + side. It's the wire on the driver's side of the car as it's plugged in. I'm not 100% positive that's correct, but the subs sound fine so I guess it is.

still_walkin
08-29-08, 08:29 PM
Look good just two questions is that fuse you plugged your remote wire up to does it still have juice when the car is off and does you amp stay on when the car is off. And did you fuse your amps power wire other than that looks nice I bet it thumps

Lowtrac
09-03-08, 09:07 PM
Look good just two questions is that fuse you plugged your remote wire up to does it still have juice when the car is off and does you amp stay on when the car is off. And did you fuse your amps power wire other than that looks nice I bet it thumps

There's only power on that circuit when the switch is on, so no, the amp doesn't stay on all the time. I did fuse the power wire to the amp. There's a 50 amp fuse inline. You just can't see it in the pictures.

wachuku
09-05-08, 02:30 AM
Looks nice and clean (same for the car). I'm a little concerned about grounding to the top bolt of the shock though. Is the ground connection primarily to the body or the shock? Is the connection clean (e.g. sanded through paint and primer)?

chizniz16
10-28-08, 02:30 AM
Hey new here and new to Caddys but about to have my car sitting most of the winter so im begining my install now. 99 sts loaded with bose. I plan on doing the same setup the thread poster mentioned, just a few questions..

1) like the person above me, best place for the ground, would it be the bolt of the shock liek you used or better off drilling a hole somewhere and inserting good conducting screw and washer?

2) I see you used the sub's direct wires to run to ur amp, I heard it was better to use the rear speakers, any truth to this? Would it be better just to use the sub's wires so you can control it easy with the bose radio upfront, I will be doing a LOC it appears since I dont have any speaker lvl imputs.

Alpine 12V 1000W mono/2 channel. 2 kicker 2004 4 ohm comp vr 10" in dual ported subzone box.

still_walkin
10-28-08, 02:37 AM
I wouldn't hook it up to the rear speaker for the reason being is that if you want to turn your subs off your rears will go out too. And the grounding issue you can use a strut or find the biggest piece of metal in the trunk you can find. If you are mounting the amp in the interior don't use the seatbelt as a ground . Good luck post anymore questions you may have

wachuku
11-01-08, 08:13 PM
I still think grounding to the shock bolt is questionable. First, I believe there is a rubber gasket beneath the car to separate the shock from the sheet metal acoustically, so the electrical path for return current is minimal. If you do use the shock bolt, I'd sand around the bolt -- and I'd only use that location if there is a sufficient amount of flat sheet metal immediately surrounding the hole.

Isn't the battery in the back anyways? Why not consider positioning the amp so both the B+ and ground leads can be connected directly to the battery?

As for connecting the sub to rear-speakers versus sub channel, maybe the rear channels allow the sub to play more "high bass". Personally, I think the sub should be on the sub channel because I don't like anything above 40-80 Hz out of a sub, depending on what the speakers can handle in the midbass.

SPreston2001
12-16-08, 08:09 PM
Hey can anybody futher explain how to tap into the sub wires for my amps inputs? All the amps I have use RCA inputs so how would I tap into the subwoofer wires with RCA cables? Ive always had aftermarket HU's with RCA inputs on all my other cars so excuse my ignorance on this subject.

still_walkin
12-16-08, 08:41 PM
Your amp has speaker wire outputs which means your amp either is 1 or 2 channels and its marked pos/neg that's how you wire your subs to your amp . If you need a wiring diagram email me at still.walkin@gmail.com and ill make u one make sure to include what you are using so its easy to read

CadillacSTS42005
12-16-08, 08:43 PM
you need an LOC
line out converter

SPreston2001
12-16-08, 11:15 PM
Ok thanks guys. I will send you a email shortly still.walkin.

ac02sls
12-16-08, 11:27 PM
Did you use both Sub channels into your amp. I looked at mine the other day and saw that the Sub is a Dual voice coil type and has 4 speaker wires going to the plug (2 wires per coil). What if I use 1 pair of wires to the amp and leave the other connected to the sub. And if I leave 1 pair to continue to run the factory Sub, what if I run 2 more wires (in parallel) from the pair I leave and re-connect them to the open wires opened up from running that pair to the sub. This should make the factory Sub see 1 ohm and will the factory Sub be able to handle 1 ohm ?
Thanks

wachuku
12-18-08, 02:35 AM
SPreston2001 I second the motion of CadillacSTS2003: go to BestBuy or some similar place and tell a car audio sales associate that you want a "LOC" for interfacing an aftermarket sub with an OEM speaker. The associate should be able to show you the part and help explain how to use it for your particular vehicle.

ac02sls if you want to leave your OEM sub running (a questionable endeavor IMO) why not just leave all factory wires and run an additional pair to your amp in parallel from one of the sub voicecoils (each coil should see what is essentially the same audio signal). I'm assuming your amp has speaker level inputs, otherwise you'll need a LOC. In either case, neither amp speaker level inputs nor LOC should present a load that is significant relative to the low impedance load of the subwoofer coils. And by the way, it's not the factory sub that would "see 1 ohm" in your wiring scenario, but rather the factory amp, which may not be able to handle it. Also, some dual voice coil subs will be damaged if only a single coil is powered.

cadillacdriver25
08-15-09, 09:36 PM
so i did it today :)

now my bose system has a better deep bass :yup:

i used the same positive connection from the fuse block. the negative connection i used the same like the batterie, was for me safer than to search for a negative con. in the trunk.

i use now both the OEM sub and the sub with the new amp. the sub works only with ign on so i can also listen to music when the ign is off and it dont need to much power from the batt.:o

i needed only about 40 minutes to do all the stuff. its really good that the batt is under the backseats :)
make it a lot easier and faster...

now my question
the new amp has 380 watt RMS would that be ok for the generator?? i guess yes?!

thx

SPreston2001
08-23-09, 08:48 PM
the new amp has 380 watt RMS would that be ok for the generator??

Yeah you should be ok.

jcresciSTS
08-23-09, 11:40 PM
How bad is your rear deck rattle?

Mine is pretty annoying on most bass notes.

Also, I removed my Bose sub so that more air could enter the cabin. With only 500true rms I can feel the air hit me.

Slowy
10-20-09, 11:01 PM
How bad is your rear deck rattle?
Mine is pretty annoying on most bass notes.
Also, I removed my Bose sub so that more air could enter the cabin. With only 500true rms I can feel the air hit me.

i was wondering about this as well. my back deck rattles with just the factory sub and I'm about to move the amp from one car to the next.