: loss of power overheating issues HELP



lathe2nd
08-09-08, 10:19 PM
Ok, I know the answer is pobably somewhere on this site, but I can't seem to find it... hopefully you guys can provide me with some help.

'97 ETC 161,000 miles - problem started as follows. Car started to overheat on long drives on highway trips when I would "get on it" so I babied it home and flushed the system, replaced the thermostat - that seemed to solve the problem, but not for long... she overheated and blew a hose, fixed the hose thinking the overheating may have been due to a small leak in same hose, shortly after heatercore gave out. (easy fix with great directions found here) Seemed to do well, but then I started blowing more hoses one at a time. (i know should of replaced all of them, but money was tight at the time) Ultimatey replaced ever hose everything seemed fine, power was great, but gas mileage seemed lower than normal. Slowed down for a light and noticed car got a little warmer than normal - not overheated. I took off from the light and noticed the car seemed to have no power at all, the more pedal I gave the less power I got... I fast Idled for a little while hoping that it would cool off and clear itself up - no such luck the temp gauge took a dive towards the red, I pulled over let her cool down and was able to make it a few more miles before she started getting hot again, I shut it off, towed it home and topped off the fluid. It doesn't overheat, but has no power at all, no leaks that I can find, no water in the oil or coming out the exhaust. Did I fry my engine or is it in camel mode? how does it come out of camel mode? How do you test the purge line? (remove it and blow through it?) Ok any advice would be greatl appreciated. sorry for the book just wanted to give as much info as possible.

Thanks

Ranger
08-09-08, 10:38 PM
You didn't fry it. It was in the camel mode, 4unning on 4 cylinders. It will come out of camel mode when it cools down. Do a search for purge line. I just finished explaining it in the previous thread. Get the coolant tested for the presence of exhaust gases.

lathe2nd
08-10-08, 08:26 AM
Just checked the purge line - it is flowing. The engine is cool and still has no power. I just pulled the codes and am going to look them up now. Any other suggestions? Not sure where I can get my coolant tested for exhaust gas.

I just pulled the codes - p0101 Mass air flow sensor. It makes sense based on how its running now, could this have caused the car to run hotter on it's most recent bout with overheating?

Also I just looked up some info on the sensor, apparently if you use a K+N air filter, it's possible that over oiling the filter can cause the sensor to get oil on it. I am going to pull it and clean it before replacing it. (although it ran good for quite some time since I last reoiled the filter)

Submariner409
08-10-08, 10:38 AM
Use throttlebody cleaner, not choke cleaner (different chemicals) and get rid of the K&N filter. Do some searching and you'll find out they're more trouble than they're worth. Use a WIX panel filter which has more surface area (pleats) than Fram or ACDelco.

If you have fooled with the MAF and tried to modify it, there's a good chance that your air/fuel ratios are wrong.

........but, the low power thing after overheating is a mystery.......as Ranger says, the system comes out of camel mode when the temps return to close to normal.

lathe2nd
09-09-08, 09:24 PM
ok, sorry it took me so long to get back in here, been very busy with work and finally had time to try fixing my car.
I did try cleaning it - used MAF cleaner, it didn't look dirty, but not sure what it takes to mess one up... didn't solve the problem. I replaced it and still same problem. Upon initial start it runs decent temp is normal... if you rev it slightly it seems fine, but if you gun it, it bogs down then idles rough. Not sure what else to do at this point. Any other help would be greatly appreciated.

Larry

misfit6794
09-09-08, 10:10 PM
Definetly test the coolant for exhaust gases, there is a test kit at napa, $50 bucks. Are you losing any coolant? You can also check the tail pipes for coolant.

It sounds like its stuck in camel mode, maybe try disconnecting the battery overnight.

Have you ever changed the plugs? Might be time.

lathe2nd
09-10-08, 12:14 AM
plugs aren't that old but will check them just in case, gonna disconnect the battery right now... will try the exhaust gas kit next if i'm still stumped. honestly it acts like camel mode to me, but previous posts seem to indicate it would come out of it on its own... but it is getting a little older ('97) maybe it did get "stuck"

Thanks

zonie77
09-10-08, 10:49 AM
What plugs did you install?

Ranger
09-10-08, 12:06 PM
ok, sorry it took me so long to get back in here, been very busy with work and finally had time to try fixing my car.
I did try cleaning it - used MAF cleaner, it didn't look dirty, but not sure what it takes to mess one up... didn't solve the problem. I replaced it and still same problem. Upon initial start it runs decent temp is normal... if you rev it slightly it seems fine, but if you gun it, it bogs down then idles rough. Not sure what else to do at this point. Any other help would be greatly appreciated.

Larry
Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and see what happens when you do this. Tape it to the windshield and take it for a rid and get on it. If the fuel pressure drops when you put your foot in it, the pump is dying.

lathe2nd
05-12-09, 12:10 PM
ok this has been on the back burner all winter and I finally got around to putting a fuel guage on it. at idle it is 48 psi. the guage I borrowed isn't long enough to tape to the windshield but when revving it up in park, it goes up to about 50 and stays about 48. I disconnected the FPR vac line and had the pressure go up to 60.
I think that is a normal pressure - can someone confirm?
Pulled the plugs, I used Bosch Platinums they were ashy looking and the odd thing is they have a little thin wire protruding from the elctrode now, they don't have many miles on them, but I am gonna throw a new set in and see what happens.

thanks for any help...

Ranger
05-12-09, 01:11 PM
Your fuel pressure is normal. DO NOT use Bosch plugs. Use A/C Delco 41-950's

lathe2nd
05-12-09, 01:22 PM
Ranger,
Thanks for the fuel info... Advance replaced the plugs free... I just finished putting in all 8 and it may be a slight improvement but stillhas a slower than normal rev-up and bogs down when I try to open it up. Seemed like the odd # plugs (near firewall) were more fouled looking (black residue on them) than the even numbered plugs. Once I get to the bottom of this I will replace the plugs with the 41/950's, although I don't think the bosch plugs are causing the current issue since the car ran great on them initially. I have never been this stumped...
The odd thing is the first 2 plugs I pulled were the only two that had the defective electrodes. gonna see if it pulls up any new codes.

lathe2nd
05-12-09, 02:49 PM
Pulled these codes as current:
P0101 MAF Preformance - I had replaced this sensor and had no improvement or change, so went back to the old one.
0300 Misfire detected - this is new, now why couldn't it tell me which cylinder?
IPC U1255 Serial line data malfunction....
I am going to clear them and see if they come back. any suggestions?

Ranger
05-12-09, 06:41 PM
still has a slower than normal rev-up and bogs down when I try to open it up
Clogged CAT?

lathe2nd
05-12-09, 07:07 PM
I'm leaning towards the cat too... going to repace the fuel filter for good measure, which almost makes no sense since the fuel pressure is good. I've checked every plug for spark and they all are firing, one bit me through my rubber glove. (ouch)
I really want to get this thing figured out - i'll post results later tonight.

lathe2nd
05-12-09, 10:39 PM
ok, new fuel filter, new plugs... only code it's pulling is the 0300 for engine misfire. it is running smooth at idle revs up a little better to 2300 rpm them bogs down if i push it beyond 2300rpm it will stall. tomorrow i am going to test the cat for being plugged by removing the o2 sensor and running it a little with the purpose mage exhaust leak and see if it runs better... if not anyone looking for parts? i've also got a 94 sls as well.

Ranger
05-12-09, 11:17 PM
tomorrow i am going to test the cat for being plugged by removing the o2 sensor and running it a little with the purpose mage exhaust leak and see if it runs better.
I'm not sure if that will work. You could remove the O2 sensor and install an exhaust back pressure gauge or disconnect the exhaust prior to the CAT and see it if runs any better.

lathe2nd
09-26-09, 12:10 AM
:bouncy:
Hi guys! Great news... it's been a busy summer but I finally had time to work on the caddy...
I disconnected the cat and tried to run it with open exhaust to see if it would run any better - turned out that what it was!

Fortunately I live in western PA where we don't have emissions testing, so I took the cat out used a pipe to smash out the honeycomb - with a new gasket, bolts, 2 clamps and a coupler from advance, I'm back on the road for $12.00
Even better 28 - 29 mpg on the highway if I drive the speed limit on level road... but thats not easy to do in an ETC, lol

Thanks to all of you for your suggestions.