: Help! V1 hard wire mirror install

08-03-08, 08:41 PM
ok, First of all I already went to FAQ and I follow the instructions from there.
It states " that in the rear view mirror there is a Pink wire that has no delay to turn off (after car is been turn off). and then there is a Black wire with a white strip the is the ground"
Second I brought a direct hard wire from ebay for the V1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=350082002331

Bottom line it didnt work, so now I dont know.
Up to my believe it may be the wires (wrong color).

So does any one used one of these???
and/or has anyone done the direct mirror power thing???
if so are the wires correct??? what wires did you used??
Lastly is there a power tester that tests the wires without having to strip them???

Any input will be a great help.

08-03-08, 09:28 PM
Just did mine last week. You have the right color code. I used the Hardwire Adapter that came with my V1. I tapped into the Pink Wire with the supplied wire tapper and bought another wire tapper and tapped into the black and grey wire for ground. You may want to check your connection but You are for sure using the correct wires on the mirror. Does your Hardwire adapter have fuses in it?

08-03-08, 09:38 PM
I just looked at the cable that you purchased via ebay. That cable is not the same as the one that came with the V1 from valentine but you would think that it works.

I also want to correct myself. The Black with the White is ground.

08-03-08, 10:54 PM
I cut the cigarette lighter end off the cord and wired mine straight up with an inline fuse on my last car. Worked for 4 years.

Looks like the same deal here. Should work if you have the wires right. Check the fuse. Even tho it is new, never know.

08-03-08, 11:35 PM
your "tap" may not actually be penetrating the metal cable inside the wire. Test with a DMM for +12V between ground.

08-03-08, 11:58 PM
your "tap" may not actually be penetrating the metal cable inside the wire. Test with a DMM for +12V between ground.

That's my guess too....Mine works fine wired this way.

08-04-08, 08:24 AM
Many people refuse to use the commonly available wire taps because they view them as unreliable. The lack of reliability is often associated both with initial connections and/or long term connections. I have use them extensively and have never had any problems.

The most likely cause of problems with wire taps is a result of using the wrong size tap. If a too-small tap is used it can cut the metallic part if the wire too much causing failures. A too-large tap might not make proper contact with the metallic part of wire. In both cases, failures with both initial and long term connections can result.

I have always used the taps for wire sizes within the range specified on the tap. In some cases it can be be difficult to determine what wire size is tapped, but using the correct tap with the correct wire size will usually produce good results both in the initial connection and the long term connectiom.

08-04-08, 09:16 AM
Actually, after looking at what the OP actually bought it looks like these don't even "tap" the line like we have been discussing. These are just strong-tipped wire probes that you jam into the sockets where the stock wires are located. These can be hit-or-miss depending on if you get them in the right spot.

My guess is that you're still not properly tapped and that testing the +12V connection with a DMM will yield the same result.

Either that, or your V1 is dead...

08-04-08, 01:33 PM
I used this type of tap and an inline fuse. The wire is simply telephone wire using 2 of the 4 wires(I looked online to see which ones, don't remember). Worked well off the pink wire and black/wht.

Tedmiller is right about using the right size tap. This is the type of tap I used>>

I have had problems using this type tap in the past>>