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14K views 30 replies 14 participants last post by  Colt D 
#1 ·
:cool: Just purchased an HEI for my 69 Caddy hearse with a 472 and regular points setup. Gonna install it soon and thought I would post hear and ask if anyone has ever done such a change over and the proper procedure to do so. Here's the description and picture of the dist. I bought. Don't see a single wire coming from it so where do I hook the lead to the dist.?CADDILAC - OEM - HEI - fits 472c.i. and 500 c.i. engines - 1 wire hookup - New Performance Distributor Cap + New Rotor, New Coil. - New Adjustable Vacum advance unit -- ignition module has been tested Good -- Very Good Cond. - *Complete* - used-

 
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#6 ·
Depends on if you bypass the resistor wire when your at it. Even if you do, don't go quite as wide as .060 but you can increase it from stock (due to the higher coil voltage)
 
#7 ·
the more power you can sent to the plug wider the gap can be. big hot spark will ignite the fuel better and more evenly. some times with the older points systems you could blow out the spark like a candle
 
#8 ·
Wow funny to see this thread come back. It''s almost been a year since I posted. Still haven't installed my HEI dist. yet. The car has been running great and felt if it aint broke don't fix it. I do want to eventually install the HEI though. Had other things to do and can't seem to get to it. Never done one before but checking the links and talking with people seems like it shouldn't be that hard.
 
#12 ·
Just a few questions as to how your install went...

First off, how did you manage to remove the old distributor? I can see a 1/2" nut that looks to be holding down the distributor, but it's tucked down in there so far that I can't get a socket on it at a proper angle, and the A/C compressor is in the way so I can't get a wrench on it either...

Secondly, which wire is resistive? The pink one going from the steering column to the firewall harness, or the clear braided-looking one that goes from the firewall up to the coil?

Third... Plug wires. Can I still use the same 7mm wires I'm using with my points setup?

Other information:
I've got an Accel Billetproof Distributor and an Accel Super Coil (PN #140001) for my '69 Coupe deVille with the factory 472. Is this really considered HEI, even though the coil isn't on the cap?
 
#13 ·
I have done this conversion on my '70 Fleetwood.

It is pretty starightforward, really.

Remove the old distributor, wires, coil and colil bracket. But before you yank out the old dist, referance the rotor so that you can install the new dist in the same place. You will notice that as you pull out the dist, the rotor will turn. Take this into account so that when you install the new dist, the rotor will turn back, and properly engage the oil pump drive and drop right into place. If you do not do it this way, the dist will drop in one tooth behind, making it all but impossible to time properly, and you will have to revert to the time consuming method of setting the engine to #1 cylinder .....

It is not necessary to replace or by-pass the resistor wire. I have done many of these conversions, and have never done this. Add an extension to the wire that went to the + on the old coil with a female spade terminal. If you can score the original type connector, all the better. Install this to the Batt terminal on the distributor.

You will need to replace the old wires with 8mm silicon wires. I have always spec'd out Delco wires from a 1977-79 deVille 425. They are a perfect fit.

Also, you will notice a very tight clearance between the compressor/PS belts. That is OK unless they actually rub. The belts may touch the cap at times, but never enough to cause any worries. I have rub marks on the cap of mine, and it has been that way for almost 10 years!

I installed Rapid Fire #3's on mine, gapped to 0.060", but you can also use AC/Delco R44XLS6's gapped at 0.060".

Set base timing to 10 BTDC and hook the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum. This will give a noticeable improvment in response and power over hooking the advance to ported vacuum. But, the use of premium fuel is a must. The improvement in power, response and fuel economy will more than make up for the cost if you were getting by with regular before.

Mike
 
#14 ·
Sorry, I posted before I answered all your questions.

Unless it is the coil in cap, it is not considered HEI. HEI is generally referred to the OEM electronic distributors that GM began using in 1974. The aftermarket systems are variations on the old set ups, but with an electronic triggering mechanism replacing the points. An example would be the Pertronix conversions.

You will need to use a long extension and a flex socket to remove the distributor hold down nut. Be carefull not to drop the hold down and nut into the black hole in the front of the engine when you get it loose. This is where good manual dexterity becomes important!

Mike
 
#15 ·
guidematic said:
It is not necessary to replace or by-pass the resistor wire. I have done many of these conversions, and have never done this.

Mike
The reason that the resistance wire can be left in place with an H.E.I. conversion is that the more modern setup with it's short coil primary ignition coil pulses will draw a whole lot less current than the coil and points. Less current draw = less Voltage drop across the resistor.
 
#19 ·
Definately replace the resistance wire. HEI's have an electronic module in them to run the ignition that is designed to run on 12V. Lots of people have had problems after a HEI conversion due to not replacing the resistance wire. If you've gotten away with not doing it, I'd say you're lucky, but you probably aren't getting the full benefit of electronic ignition.

Also, don't go to 0.060" gap unless you've got an aftermarket coil and module in there that tells you to. The factory stock gap for HEI is 0.045". That's 50% more than the gap for a points distributor. That extra gap, and the fact that HEI changes the dwell based on RPM should give you more than enough gains.

Oh, and the distributor hold-down nut is 9/16" IIRC. Yeah, it is in a PITA location - even my distributor wrench doesn't reach it well.
 
#20 ·
Theroetically, with a significantly reduced load it wouldnt be a problem. However, in practice, I can't say for sure wether or not the load is dropped to the point that leaving the wire affects it or not. Checking is easy enough, With the motor running, measure the voltage at the BAT terminal of the HEI connected through the resistor wire. If you see full voltage, your good to go. I just suspect that you wouldn't. Even the old points styles had the resistor bypass for that extra "kick in the arse" during cranking. It's easy enough to bypass too, IIRC the wiper feed works well on '68s (I think thats what I used...) Looked at the diagram, and it was hot during cranking as well as run.
 
#22 ·
If you measured 6 Volts then there must have been a Voltage drop in the resistor. In order for a resistor to drop Voltage, there has to be a load. I=V/R.
Your measurement was probably taken with the points closed and current flowing through the coil primary. You should have measured very close to battery Voltage without a load.
 
#24 ·
You are a dumbass ***. 1st of all why put an HEI in a 1969 Cadillac instead of buying a breakerless ignition kit that fits right inside the distributor for a stock appearance and a higher voltage ignition coil??? :confused: You reduced the value big time. :D 2ndly you have no respect for the dead people that once rode in the hearse to put a skull gas cap, breather and an Edelbrock air filter and other junk like a wierd power steering pump and god knows what else. :helpless: Then on top of that you're a general idiot that dont know shit about cars, when you modify any car it reduces the value badly and that is what you did. Edelbrock is for racing cars not classic's you dumbass. What have you been smoking and drinking huh??? :drinker Humanoid bastards like you make me sick. :rant2: Bye butt pirate.
 
#25 ·
Smoking Tire said:
You are a dumbass ***. 1st of all why put an HEI in a 1969 Cadillac instead of buying a breakerless ignition kit that fits right inside the distributor for a stock appearance and a higher voltage ignition coil??? :confused: You reduced the value big time. :D 2ndly you have no respect for the dead people that once rode in the hearse to put a skull gas cap, breather and an Edelbrock air filter and other junk like a wierd power steering pump and god knows what else. :helpless: Then on top of that you're a general idiot that dont know shit about cars, when you modify any car it reduces the value badly and that is what you did. Edelbrock is for racing cars not classic's you dumbass. What have you been smoking and drinking huh??? :drinker Humanoid bastards like you make me sick. :rant2: Bye butt pirate.
Troll......:cookoo:
BTW, someone correct me if I'm incorrect but isn't that power steering pump original to a hearse and used somehow with the suspension? If I am correct, it would seem that it's Smoking Tire that's "a general idiot that dont know shit about cars".:rolleyes2
 
#26 ·
I think his name should be smoking pole. That is not a power steering pump dumbass it's a hydraulic pump for the stock leveling system in the car. Why buy a "kit " for my dist. When I can have the real thing. Anytime you wanna meet up I'll be more than happy to stomp a hole in your ass. Go back to playing with your hotwheels.
 
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