: How to change pulley



egheorghe
07-14-08, 11:36 PM
How difficult is to change the lower pulley? Is the biggest one, when i look at the serpentine belt from the passenger's side, the one in the bottom on the left side. It jiggles a bit and i have to go in a 1500 mi trip. I'm guessing that is not safe to drive it like that for so many miles.
Thank you!

Krashed989
07-15-08, 04:05 AM
Are you talking about the crankshaft pulley?.....

egheorghe
07-15-08, 11:51 AM
I don't know the name of it. Is the one hightlighted in red.
Is that Cramkshaft pulley? How difficult is to change it?

Submariner409
07-15-08, 12:29 PM
That's the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer. If the rubber/polymer damper joint between the core and balance ring - ribbed pulley has come loose it must be replaced ASAP. If the entire unit is loose (center bolt has loosened) then it must be retorqued to 37 ft/lb + 120 degrees of rotation.

Remove the wheel and fender inner liner with the car up on jackstands. A full morning's DIY work.

Mostly hand tools, but also a good torque wrench, and you'll need to lock the engine from rotating while torqueing: I think that requires removal of the intake manifold and starter motor in order to insert a special fixture to lock the flywheel......A GM Tech or one of our recent rebuilders can comment on that.

egheorghe
07-15-08, 01:11 PM
Thank you Submariner!
Do I need to lock the engine even if I only have to retorque it?

tateos
07-15-08, 01:39 PM
The locking mechanism is inserted from underneath - you have to remove the brace between the trans and the oil pan and also the sheet metal torque converter inspection cover.

That tool is pretty expensive - more than $100, so when I did my HG job, I did remove the starter and lock the flywheel by inserting a long bolt through the starter hole into the torque converter. The crankshaft pulley bolt was nearly impossible to remove - I had to put a pipe on the end of a long breaker bar to get enough torque to break it loose. I did end up bending the bolt I had inserted in the torque converter and slightly marred the starter hole slightly, but it did get the job done.

What I should have done is what I would do in the future, and what I have always done in the past. It has been suggested to me, since I did the project, to put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt positioned so that once the starter is engaged and "bumped, it will do all the work and break the bolt loose. I don't know why I didn't do that in the first place this time, but I must have had a good reason at the time...

egheorghe
07-15-08, 03:51 PM
This is what i found on Autozone's website. Is it accurate? Here it looks easier than probably is.
I got a quote for $ 160. I don't think is too bad considering that the part is $35 and the tools (flywheel holder, puller tool, pilot tool) about $100.
Maybe i should have it done at the shop. Is there anyone that done it without any complications?
Thank you guys for sharing the information!

Ranger
07-15-08, 04:52 PM
I have never done it, but keep in mind that it MUST be torqued tight as Sub said. It drives you oil pump and if it is not torqued correctly, you'll loose oil pressure.

STSj90
07-15-08, 08:01 PM
I notice myne is jiggling a bit while the car is running...WTF? I dont know what caused this. I guess oldness. Either way it needs to be fixed. Thats what balances the engine. Are the same steps used on my car as well?

Ranger
07-15-08, 10:25 PM
Both Northstars. Same procedure.

NHRATA01
07-15-08, 11:36 PM
What I should have done is what I would do in the future, and what I have always done in the past. It has been suggested to me, since I did the project, to put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt positioned so that once the starter is engaged and "bumped, it will do all the work and break the bolt loose. I don't know why I didn't do that in the first place this time, but I must have had a good reason at the time...

I wouldn't do that, I think you stand a good chance of something bad happening, either overheating the starter, stripping the pinion gear on it, or worst of all cracking the mounting points on the aluminum block (seen it happen on a few LS1s - essentially trashing the block).

egheorghe
07-15-08, 11:53 PM
I notice myne is jiggling a bit while the car is running...WTF?(STSj90) Did you try to rev a bit? When i accelerate it doesn't look like it jiggles anymore. What if I have to change only the balanser/dorman, without touching the bolts? Isn't this supposed to be simple than the procedure attached?

tateos
07-16-08, 05:49 PM
I wouldn't do that, I think you stand a good chance of something bad happening, either overheating the starter, stripping the pinion gear on it, or worst of all cracking the mounting points on the aluminum block (seen it happen on a few LS1s - essentially trashing the block).

Never had a problem - someone suggested it to me that had done it on a N* with success - I had the block out of the car at that point. You don't crank the starter for long - just a fraction of a second. It puts no extra stress on anything - maybe less actually. I would do it any day - I just forgot until too late this time

NHRATA01
07-16-08, 06:05 PM
Never had a problem - someone suggested it to me that had done it on a N* with success - I had the block out of the car at that point. You don't crank the starter for long - just a fraction of a second. It puts no extra stress on anything - maybe less actually. I would do it any day - I just forgot until too late this time

If you have the block out of the car already, then use a proper tool. The starter wasn't made to break loose the crank bolt. You may get away with it once, but the next time you may trash the starter or flywheel.