ok so i opened the trunk using the keyless entry remote, and it open fine and the motor raise the striker, then i closed it and it latched but didnt pull into "closed" position, and there is a switch that activates the light facing you when you open the trunk, the switch lights the light when it is in the latched position, but when it is open like if you were getting something, the light is out, its backwards, but it goes out if i disconnect the trunk pull down motor harness from the motor. is the motor the cause? because now the remote release wont work and neither will the release in the glovebox, you can only open the trunk with the key....has this happened to anyone else? is it the motor? or the release? anyone have a motor for it? thanks.

ttt

well we tested the trunk motor and it works perfectly both ways, up and down. so i has to be something else...anyone???

It's the latch on the trunk lid touching the loop on the motor that makes it start moving, like that's what gives it power. Maybe there's a broken wire somewhere or a bad ground that's causing it. That would probably also explain why the light ison't working properly.

It's the latch on the trunk lid touching the loop on the motor that makes it start moving, like that's what gives it power. Maybe there's a broken wire somewhere or a bad ground that's causing it. That would probably also explain why the light ison't working properly.
is that why its not pulling the lid down? its the actual release unit thats broken? why doesnt the remote trunk pop work and the pull down doesnt work either?

I have found a broken ground in loom next to left trunk hinge on 3, 94 fleetwoods that caused this problem.

I JUST EXPERIENCED THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 95' FLEETWOOD. CHECK THE THE WIRES THAT ARE ALONG THE HING OF THE TRUNK LID. I FOUND THAT THE SOMEHOW THE TRUNK HING CUT THE GROUND WIRE, AT LEAST THAT'S WHAT I THINK. THIS SHOULD FIX THE PROBLEM.:bouncy:

Same problem on my '93 nearly two years ago....went into the store, came out and opened the trunk with they key, closed it, and it wouldn't "suck" down. Kept trying it, and nothing, so just drove home with it latched but "up".

Worked intermittantly once or twice at home, but we just disabled the motor and manually "wound down" the striker by spinning the gears inside. Doesn't bother me, as I always thought it was one of the stupidest inventions ever.....you already CLOSED it 99% of the way, WHY do you need an extra motor and wires to "finish" the last inch of latch? :nono:

It is about the dumbest possible option ever!

Mine had this problem with the previous owner and he found a broken wire right by the left trunk hinge and repaired it.

I found out (he told me about it, so I knew there was an issue once) when his repair broke, and it, of course, was raining that day. I found this splice and just twisted the wires together and it was fine. Sounds like GM had a bad wiring harness from the wiring harness supplier.

Sounds like GM had a bad wiring harness from the wiring harness supplier.


GM?
Bad wiring?

Noooo.



I am kidding man, I used to have a 94 before it threw a rod on me @ 105K. Now I drive Civic. Whoopie!! :bighead: