: Therma Gasket Fixed My Head Leak



prosin
07-08-08, 01:20 PM
I successfully used Thermagasket by RxAuto to fix a leaking head- after an overheating due to broken water pump belt there was a block and or head leak into the engine valley under the intake plenum. After 15k miles its still good - only problem is that to reduce the expansion and contraction I need to know how to rewire the fans to maintain a more even temperature. Regular antifreeze is no longer viable - must use Sierra antifreeze - as a south Florida resident it is no big deal but the July heat is killing me - I would swear by the Thermagasket

CadillacSTS42005
07-08-08, 01:41 PM
my repair in a bottle worked
but i gotta wire my fans to run at all times and use strictly water to keep it cool...

sounds like an awesome fix to me...

Submariner409
07-08-08, 05:23 PM
Wiring the fans to run constantly or at a temperature inconsistent with the thermostat or engine control system programming will accomplish nothing. Removing the thermostat will guarantee that the engine never enters closed loop operation, with subsequent gas mileage decrease (a lot) and increased emissions. The system is purposely designed to run at 206 - 220 degrees. Even with the a/c on, the engine will still run at 206 - 220. If it does not, then you have problems which fans won't cure.

Thermagasket or no, you're living on borrowed time........fix the thing correctly.

prosin
07-09-08, 11:00 AM
I appreciate your input- Unfortunately as much as love the care a 1993 Allante with 170k on it is not worth it - what I am trying to accomplish is this - in southern Florida the summer is brutal - 90% of the time the temp gauge is straight up at the 12 oclock position - in traffic it will creep up to the 2 oclock spot - the high speed fan kicks on and it returns to the 12 oclock spot -it's this fluctulation that I am trying to minimize with the understanding that by reducing the expansion and contraction I might prolong its life.

Ur7x
07-09-08, 04:56 PM
A 1993 Allante with bad head gaskets?

What color? Red?

I had a 1990.5 Red with black interior... Best car I ever drove...

I'll give ya $1,500 for the car!

We all understand your desire to try the miracle in a bottle...

If you do a search you will find DOZENS of forum members who tried this...
Zero success. Most got a few weeks of satisfaction and then they were back at square one with an overheating car... Those are the lucky ones... The unlucky ones now had an overheating car with the bonus of a clogged heater core and a gummed up water pump too...

These miracles in a can DO NOT work... Do not rewire the car...
your cheapest option will be to have a local indpendant garage swap in a wrecker motor for about $700-$1000.

tateos
07-09-08, 07:31 PM
I don't believe Thermagasket could repair the head gasket problem for 1K, never mind 15K. I believe you - I know that you used it and you are still trouble free, but if the problem you had was really a head gasket and/or pulled bolts, the Thermagasket could not repair it for longer than a very short while, at best. I have done the repair and seen the problem, and nothing in a bottle would cure it.

That said, if you want to hard wire the fans on, I don't think it will really do any harm. They are on all the time when the AC is on anyway.

RM



I successfully used Thermagasket by RxAuto to fix a leaking head- after an overheating due to broken water pump belt there was a block and or head leak into the engine valley under the intake plenum. After 15k miles its still good - only problem is that to reduce the expansion and contraction I need to know how to rewire the fans to maintain a more even temperature. Regular antifreeze is no longer viable - must use Sierra antifreeze - as a south Florida resident it is no big deal but the July heat is killing me - I would swear by the Thermagasket

ewill3rd
07-10-08, 08:09 AM
"Fixed" is not a term I would use.
"Temporarily handled" would be more like it.

The temp cycling and the fans would be the way it is going to work, only way to minimize it is to leave it parked in the driveway.
Staring at the temperature gage is not what I would refer to as "fixed".
;)

acklac7
07-15-08, 03:52 AM
Thermagasket isn't going to hold...You might get a few months out of it but sooner or later your going to be overheating again.

And I live in Naples and will GLADLY take the Allante off your hands. If/when you decide to let her go please let me know via PM how much your want for her. Always wanted a 93' 'Lantae

prosin
07-15-08, 07:24 PM
Is there a way to trick the high speed cooling fan to come on sooner - I appreciate all the input but there are a couple facts - 1. I don't stare at the temp gauge.2. Logic would dictate that if it maintained a more even temp that could only help the expansion / contraction cycles. 3. It really has gone 10k with therma gasket. 4. I think the overheating from the broken water pump belt caused an external crack- that's why it WAS leaking heavily into the engine valley- perhaps therma gasket works on this type of repair better. 4. I don't lie.

antichip
07-15-08, 07:43 PM
Hmmm. I'll bet my guitar against you bad gasket you have a check somewhere with the manufacturer of thermowhatevers name on it. I have a 97 deville with a similar problem, and despite running seal-a-meal thru it twice I still have a radiator full of exhaust. If I could get the water pump drive pully off the cam I would investigate further as it is number six that isn't firing. (in front) I wish something in a bottle would fix this, and if someone can come to kent washington and show me, I would be a very happy man.

Is it normally just the gasket on a 4.6? I got water in my oil and oil in my water, but it did stop putting dexcool in orbit. No more smoke sceen, no more leak. Replaced the water pump and actually drove it a bit. didn't even get hot, but its running on 7.

tateos
07-15-08, 08:13 PM
Is there a way to trick the high speed cooling fan to come on sooner - I appreciate all the input but there are a couple facts - 1. I don't stare at the temp gauge.2. Logic would dictate that if it maintained a more even temp that could only help the expansion / contraction cycles. 3. It really has gone 10k with therma gasket. 4. I think the overheating from the broken water pump belt caused an external crack- that's why it WAS leaking heavily into the engine valley- perhaps therma gasket works on this type of repair better. 4. I don't lie.

Right - we never said you lied and maybe thermawhatever can fix a conventional leak OUT of the cooling system, just not a head gasket leak that has combustion exhaust blowing INTO the cooling system, like many of us have experienced.

prosin
07-15-08, 09:20 PM
Well back to my goal - getting the high speed fan to kick in when perhaps the temp gauge just went a little past the 1/2 mark, like half a hash mark; currently it goes to the second hash mark past the 1/2 way point before the high speed fan kicks in- once it kicks in it cools down quickly to the 1/2 mark, its my everyday car and my only car - I rack 60 miles a day on it in 90 degree weather- never got oil in the antifreeze or antifreeze in the oil - no fouled plugs and it still runs good and I still kick it around - I am just wanting another 30k miles out of it. And no - I am not getting a check from therma whoever - I just know I was teary eyed thinking it was a toasted car and on its way to the Allante junkyard in West Palm Beach.....I assure you I would have bet my vital organ the bottle fix wasnt gonna work and almost a year later its still my every day car- I just am convinced by minimizing the natural temperature swings a bit HAS to help - I've read here that the expansion/contraction slowly works on pulling the bolts out of the heads - there is also no room for an auxilary fan in front of the radiator - and if I was to remove the two fans behind the radiator I would probably get all sorts of codes and check engine lights.....

Ur7x
07-17-08, 02:00 PM
I was teary eyed thinking it was a toasted car and on its way to the Allante junkyard in West Palm Beach.

Wrecker NO! My offer of $1500 still stands...
Sight unseen and I'll tow it half way across the continent to get it home.

And the fan coming on at the just past half way tick... Is completely normal...
If it holds pressure and no longer over heats... drive and enjoy the car

prosin
07-18-08, 12:38 PM
Its actually the second hash mark past halfway- my only goal is to keep it AT the halfway mark but that seems impossible to wire it that way.

MisterBlue
07-20-08, 08:25 AM
Okay, here's my take. Getting both fans to run is easy, just wire them together (I actually did this on my '87 IROC-Z). The worst thing to happen woud be that the breaker of fuse won't handle the load (though it did on my Z), and then you'd have to go to a heavier fuse or breaker. Keep in mind the additional and constant load on your battery and alternator may shorten their life...slightly. (Those two fans take a lotta amps.)

Now, all that said, most all of the expansion/contraction in an engine takes place from ambient to operating. That is, when it goes from "cold" (90 degrees?) to the "normal" (215 degrees) because that total amount of change is well over 100 degrees. The aditional expansion experienced when the temp goes another 25 degrees (from 215 degrees to 240 degrees) is really, really minimal. Also, I suspect your radiator isn't in the best shape. If it was, that car would idle through traffic all day long on a 90 degree day without the temperature guage even moving.

patterson
07-22-08, 11:57 PM
Hey all! My 95 Eldorado with 131K over heated twice this month for the first times since I've had it; one year. The car has been really smooth otherwise. A shop in Phoenix said it's the hg after doing a co2 test of the coolant. I had it towed on a flat-bed home to Tucson (100mi) and checked it out today. I have no water in my oil, no water in my exhaust, still idles nice and runs good (no missing or rough idle). Also, the cooling system passed a pressure test by a Goodyear shop today. I had them flush the system and burp it real good.

Q: Can exhaust fumes enter the coolant any other way, say through the throttle body gaskets instead of the head gaskets?

Car's running good for now, staying cool in the Tucson heat, right around 225F

Any thoughts?

Ranger
07-23-08, 07:07 PM
If there are exhaust gases in the coolant, it's the head gasket.

misfit6794
07-23-08, 08:11 PM
Yup, the only way co2 gets in the coolant, is if the headgasket is shot, hope you've got $3500 laying around.

Submariner409
07-23-08, 08:56 PM
Most people posting in these threads concerning Northstar head gasket failures do not have the big picture. Several who have rebuilt their own engines and have posted their findings and discoveries know the problem: Water in the oil/oil in the water is not the problem because the head gasket is not "blown". The problem is that the head bolts have lost clamping pressure and allow combustion gasses to blow past the head gasket into the water jacket upon some undefined conditions, leading to overpressurized coolant sytems and subsequent coolant loss which then overheats the engine. To compound the problem, the gasket generally doesn't leak "in reverse": coolant into one or more cylinders. (Yes, once in a while, the cause of the startup rough idle for 10 seconds.....) Engine heating and cooling has practically nothing to do with the head gasket problem: it all has to do with sealing pressures. A rather poignant example is the low temperature O-ring failure which destroyed the Shuttle CHALLENGER. Same principle. No seal, disaster.

dkozloski
07-24-08, 01:18 AM
Most people posting in these threads concerning Northstar head gasket failures do not have the big picture. Several who have rebuilt their own engines and have posted their findings and discoveries know the problem: Water in the oil/oil in the water is not the problem because the head gasket is not "blown". The problem is that the head bolts have lost clamping pressure and allow combustion gasses to blow past the head gasket into the water jacket upon some undefined conditions, leading to overpressurized coolant sytems and subsequent coolant loss which then overheats the engine. To compound the problem, the gasket generally doesn't leak "in reverse": coolant into one or more cylinders. (Yes, once in a while, the cause of the startup rough idle for 10 seconds.....) Engine heating and cooling has practically nothing to do with the head gasket problem: it all has to do with sealing pressures. A rather poignant example is the low temperature O-ring failure which destroyed the Shuttle CHALLENGER. Same principle. No seal, disaster.
What's not generally known was that the root cause of the O-ring failure in the Challenger was the prohibition of the use of a particular brand of zinc-chromate paste along with the O-ring because it contained asbestos. In previous launches the paste was sufficient to supplement the sealing properties of the O-ring gasket and they worked together as a sealing system. The use of asbestos in a NASA launch vehicle was not politically correct, thus it's prohibition. The blame went to cold weather because that was God's fault and he didn't have a spokesperson present at the finger pointing.

Ur7x
07-24-08, 05:27 PM
While it is true that no one know for 100% certain... why the gaskets fail (or if the do GM lawyers have a gag order on them)...

But we do know
1) Short fine pitched bolts (Quad4 style) from 93-99 are most (~88%) of the problem
2) Long fine pitched bolts from 2000-2003 are a few (~12% ) of the problem and
3) Long coarse pitch (LSx style) bolts from 2004 on rarely fail.

As was noted this is NOT really a gasket failure... this is a HEAD BOLT failure.

The head are physically lifting off of the block...

No miracle in a can will help... If it did then you have some other problem...
On my 2002 I was sure my head bolts were toast... Nope... water pump cover was leaking... $50 later and I've been good for almost 2 years.

ewill3rd
07-24-08, 08:58 PM
The bolts are an issue, they pull out, when the heads pull, the gasket is done.
It is true that on THIS engine usually the combustion gas leaks into the water jacket causing overheat issues.

The man problem is the gasses in the cooling system do not work on the t-stat the way fluid does, it can also cause disruptions in the flow of the coolant. That can cause overheat and make the condition worse.

Regardless of the details, the solution is the same, the gaskets must be replaced and the bolt holes must be repaired and I think the bolts have to be replaced.... ?

Ranger
07-24-08, 09:06 PM
The bolts are an issue, they pull out, when the heads pull, the gasket is done.
It is true that on THIS engine usually the combustion gas leaks into the water jacket causing overheat issues.

The man problem is the gasses in the cooling system do not work on the t-stat the way fluid does, it can also cause disruptions in the flow of the coolant. That can cause overheat and make the condition worse.

Regardless of the details, the solution is the same, the gaskets must be replaced and the bolt holes must be repaired and I think the bolts have to be replaced.... ?
That has always been my understanding.

patterson
07-25-08, 04:18 AM
Wiring the fans to run constantly or at a temperature inconsistent with the thermostat or engine control system programming will accomplish nothing. Removing the thermostat will guarantee that the engine never enters closed loop operation, with subsequent gas mileage decrease (a lot) and increased emissions. The system is purposely designed to run at 206 - 220 degrees. Even with the a/c on, the engine will still run at 206 - 220. If it does not, then you have problems which fans won't cure.

Thermagasket or no, you're living on borrowed time........fix the thing correctly.

SubMariner, If I could pick your brain, What exactly is "fixing the thing correctly?" for a FWD '95 N* with a slow burning HG?

The engine has to be hoisted out of the car and the block drilled nicely in 20 places to receive the inserts for head bolts. Then all 20 inserts have to grab like a Mf'er. The aluminium block has to be top notch, sounds like one had to get a good engine block from the foundry in the first place.

100k miles is getting to be the norm on these late 90's N* s so what about installing a 2000+ N* motor into a late 90's Eldo or STS? More expensive than replacing a hg I'm sure, but since you have the access, why not extrude hone the exhaust manifolds and port and polish the interior head surfaces. Then put big exhaust and better air intake. I'll have a fire breathing dragon
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s222/hotpotatapie/pooty.jpg

Submariner409
07-25-08, 09:05 AM
patterson, You're on the right track to "fix the thing correctly": Lift the car off the engine and cradle and Norm's insert all 20 bolt holes. Clean everything to make it all look new again. I hate to install a filthy rebuild job. Just looks sloppy.

While the 2000+ engines have some mechanical changes (roller cam followers for one), they also have a different ignition and management system, so there are connector, electronic, and PCM changes too. AJ or eWill3rd know the ins and outs of later engine swaps into earlier cars.

Other than cleaning up some weld flash and port/gasket matching there's not a whole lot to be done to the exhaust side. The crossover is pretty well maxed out in size as-is, and the manifolds are not bad, either. Your best bet there would be a custom s/s system patterned after the CORSA, but don't go over 3" for the main pipe or you'll introduce a low-midrange bog in the throttle response.

The air intake is good from the filter box to the TB as-is. Change to a WIX panel filter: more pleats = much more surface area. I did a slew of running on both the stock and a JET MAF last year and this spring and the throttle response, mileage, and power band is much better stock. From the bottom of the air box, enlarge the existing inlet and rig a length of 4" flexible aluminum dryer hose down to the lower grille area. I use a Scan Gauge electronic monitor (www.scangauge.com) to watch inlet air temps, and that intake modification rig keeps air at about 5-12 degrees over ambient on the road. Slow, in town, nothing on earth will keep air temps from going to 15-40 degrees over ambient, but as soon as you open the throttle butterfly, temps drop fast. (60 mph, highway, throttle runs at 7% open. That's not much airflow, because the engine doesn't need it.) Go crazy with air intakes and you also introduce a midrange bog. The intake and exhaust are pretty well balanced as-is.

You can do some minor head port polishing, but be careful with the aluminum....there are a couple of places where the water jacket is real close, thickness-wise, to the exhaust port wall. Also those lumps and ridges are there to assist chamber fill and flow turbulence.

The trick is to keep the engine "streetable", not to build something that only runs well at 5,900 RPM. Hard shot to call with a Northstar.

Hmmmmmm........Is a '95 OBD-I or -II? That makes a real difference in engine management and ScanGauge.

tateos
07-25-08, 07:27 PM
While it is true that no one know for 100% certain... why the gaskets fail (or if the do GM lawyers have a gag order on them)...

But we do know
1) Short fine pitched bolts (Quad4 style) from 93-99 are most (~88%) of the problem
2) Long fine pitched bolts from 2000-2003 are a few (~12% ) of the problem and
3) Long coarse pitch (LSx style) bolts from 2004 on rarely fail.

As was noted this is NOT really a gasket failure... this is a HEAD BOLT failure.

The head are physically lifting off of the block...

No miracle in a can will help... If it did then you have some other problem...
On my 2002 I was sure my head bolts were toast... Nope... water pump cover was leaking... $50 later and I've been good for almost 2 years.


As someone that has done a HG job on a '97 N*, I would like to offer my opinion that the head gasket may fail slightly, allow coolant and corrosive exhaust gases into the threaded head bolt hole in the block, which then degrades the aluminum threads over time, and then the bolts let go and you get massive overheating.

When I did my HG job, I had some wet holes with loose bolts that the block threads had definitely failed on, and then some other holes on the other bank that were wet and did not snap when loosened, but they were still tight. I never came across a hole with failed threads that was dry. My block had solid aluminum - noe of the powdery stuff AJ has warned us about.

patterson
07-26-08, 03:24 AM
Submariner, thanks for the wealth of info. in your post. The funny thing is just before the overheating trouble I had plans for this car but now they seem trite. I have a 1/8” thick sheet of moldable plastic to make a custom CAI, similar to the dryer hose you mentioned. Since my car is running fine for now I will still mold it up and install it this week. I just bought a K&N hi-flow air filter ($70.00, washable) Do you think the WIX better?
I believe OBD I applies to all 1995 and earlier N*s.
As far as thermamagik is concerned, the relative success is probably all in the way you apply it. If the system is pressurized with the therm-seal stuff pushing its way into the nooks and crannies, of which the largest might be your engine’s breach, and it cures and expands like an epoxy but under pressure (36 hrs), then maybe it can get a N* by for a year but wouldn’t trust it on road trips. Also, before I fill it with a coolant mix again (Zerex G-05/distilled water) I’d want to flush out all the thermapoop that didn’t take. Hopefully I won’t do any of this. Rather buy a newer Eldorado to drive around and take some time rebuilding Sadie into a beast as mentioned earlier. 2000+ N* in a 95' Eldorado with killer exhaust! Would require AJ's help for sure! Am I the only one who knows what you can do with your GF and the lift-away center console in pre 96 models??
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s222/hotpotatapie/CaddyrearwidenedforCadiforum.jpg
Sadie

Submariner409
07-26-08, 09:50 AM
:sneaky: patterson........Your last sentence hurts my back ! :D

Get with STS2003 concerning ETC's from various year groups. Your car looks like it's in mint condition, cosmetically at least, so you might consider doing a rebuild of a complete engine/trans unit from a same-year pullout, cradle and all. Many feel that the mid-90's Northstar, inserted, has more balls than the later ones, primarily due to intake cams, electronics, and engine management.

Destroyer
07-26-08, 10:01 AM
I should have tried fixing my H/G problem on my '98 with duct tape. Shoulda, coulda, woulda, damnit!. :cookoo:

Submariner409
07-26-08, 10:06 AM
Yeah, but the problem with (good) duct tape is that, once the engine gets to 215 degrees, the adhesive gets soft, runs into the cylinders, and slows the pistons down so you lose power and the gas mileage goes down. Better to use Saran Wrap and 5-minute Epoxy.

Ur7x
07-26-08, 03:32 PM
As someone that has done a HG job on a '97 N*, I would like to offer my opinion that the head gasket may fail slightly, allow coolant and corrosive exhaust gases into the threaded head bolt hole in the block, which then degrades the aluminum threads over time, and then the bolts let go and you get massive overheating.

When I did my HG job, I had some wet holes with loose bolts that the block threads had definitely failed on, and then some other holes on the other bank that were wet and did not snap when loosened, but they were still tight. I never came across a hole with failed threads that was dry. My block had solid aluminum - noe of the powdery stuff AJ has warned us about.

This seems to be a "chicken and egg" thing... Did the gaskets fail and this lead to damaged threads around the bolts or did the bolts fail which caused the gaskets to allow coolant into the bolts holes...

I was a firm believer that this was a coolant maintenance and gasket problem... Until the poll on this forum started to prove otherwise... If it was a gasket problem (the chicken) then we would see a nice "bell curve" of failures that would slowly "creep" forward in time as the newer model years age... But that's not what we see... what the poll shows is a dramatic change in the number of gasket problems between MY 1999 and MY 2000. The main change between 1999 and 2000 are longer head-bolts (the egg).

The clincher for me... I know lots of LS1 and LS2 guys who seem to swap heads weekly.. They have never time/norm serted anything... Why do we have to make this fix and they don't? Could it be that their headbolts are the coarse thread kind that GM used on the Northstar in 2004? You know the Northstar engines that rarely have a Headgasket leak problem...

"Chicken or the Egg"... We will never know...
But on the Northstar.. "Gasket or Bolts" My bet is the bolts.

Ranger
07-26-08, 04:54 PM
I believe it is the threads that pull first.

dkozloski
07-26-08, 08:38 PM
Bbob said that the colant goes bad from neglect. The metal core in the gasket corrodes and relieves the clamping force on the gasket causing leaks. The block has had a metalurgy problem with intergranular corrosion. Coolant leaks into the bolt recesses. The block thread metal, due to the metalurgy defect, takes on the consistancy of wet cardboard and the threads strip. When the engine is disasembled the threads look like mud and when they dry out look like dust. The factory has made adjustments to the blockmetal composition, heat treatment of the cast blocks, headbolt length, and thread pitch.

tateos
07-28-08, 02:29 PM
Bbob said that the colant goes bad from neglect. The metal core in the gasket corrodes and relieves the clamping force on the gasket causing leaks. The block has had a metalurgy problem with intergranular corrosion. Coolant leaks into the bolt recesses. The block thread metal, due to the metalurgy defect, takes on the consistancy of wet cardboard and the threads strip. When the engine is disasembled the threads look like mud and when they dry out look like dust. The factory has made adjustments to the blockmetal composition, heat treatment of the cast blocks, headbolt length, and thread pitch.

I was not around this site when Bbob was active, but his assessment agrees with my experience. I had some wet and muddy holes (actually, it looked and felt very similar to anti-sieze compound) with totally stripped threads, and also some wet holes where the threads were not noticeably compromised - I think they had just not been wet long enough for the threads to disintegrate.

The interesting thing is: the fixes which you bring up in your last sentence are all designed to make the threads more durable, just as inserting does for those of us that have had the pleasure. I think AJ has implied that the closed deck of the RWD Northstars may be the only true fix. What I have wondered is: are the head gaskets on recent FWD Northstars still leaking and the threads are still getting wet? Maybe they are just able to sustain this state due to the longer, stronger block threads?
I also wonder if, 50-75-100K miles from now my replacement head gaskets will begin to leak again, except now the steel bolt will be in contact with the steel Norm's insert.

Ranger
07-28-08, 11:58 PM
What I have wondered is: are the head gaskets on recent FWD Northstars still leaking and the threads are still getting wet? Maybe they are just able to sustain this state due to the longer, stronger block threads?
I don't think so. If the gaskets where the problem, the problem would be much more prevalent in all engines and all makes and models.


I also wonder if, 50-75-100K miles from now my replacement head gaskets will begin to leak again, except now the steel bolt will be in contact with the steel Norm's insert.
I don't think so. I think you are good for as long as the rest of the car will last.

patterson
07-29-08, 03:25 AM
Most people posting in these threads concerning Northstar head gasket failures do not have the big picture. Several who have rebuilt their own engines and have posted their findings and discoveries know the problem: Water in the oil/oil in the water is not the problem because the head gasket is not "blown". The problem is that the head bolts have lost clamping pressure and allow combustion gasses to blow past the head gasket into the water jacket upon some undefined conditions, leading to overpressurized coolant sytems and subsequent coolant loss which then overheats the engine.




I think my car is in the state above, head gasket intact but at least one head bolt pulls up upon applying substantial load to the enigine and allows combustion gas to peer across the gasket and super heat the coolant. Temp rises fast with pressure and blows coolant past the cap and out the expansion tank.

On Sunday I pulled the thermostat and found all the rubber flap inside was bunched up to one side and torn up. Replaced that and drove it today 30 mins each way to work and it stayed in the temp range, 208-230. I'm just trying to squeeze a little time here by "playing it cool". :kittyball:

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s222/hotpotatapie/Cadiatdadsfront.jpg
Keep it cool, pv=nrt

welshlad
07-10-09, 01:36 AM
so my 96 sts was losing coolant at a slow rate, about a litre every 2 days, well, slow for a head gasket leak. then i got lazy and didnt top it off one day and it overheated to the point where the computer told me to stop engine. im an idiot for not stopping but it was heavy traffic and i was half a block from home. so i replaced the oil, refilled the coolant, and 15 minutes later its overheating fast.

its gone from a minor problem to a major headgasket problem, im sure...

has anyone had any success with a major leak like this with thermagasket? at this point if it doesnt work the car will be scrapped anyways, and id like to get it fixed temporarily to at least sell it or trade it in. i know, i know, im a prick. anyone with any incredible success stories?

Krashed989
07-10-09, 04:18 AM
I made my 94 eldo drive 85 miles a day round trip 5 days a week for a year (to and from college) with bad headgaskets. I had 8 gallons of water in my trunk, a towel, and I hotwired my fans to toggle switches. Any time the temperature got over 135 degrees F I knew I had to pull over, use the towel to open the cap, then let the thing boil over for a little bit. After that I would take some water from my reserves and refill the thing. Hotwiring the fans made it so it lasted longer between pit stops (I only had to stop once or twice vs. the 4 or 5 times without it). I was usually the first one to class in the morning because of it though. I would always leave about an hour earlier than normal to make room for "just in case".

Then I changed the engine/tranny/PCM with ones from a rear ended STS and now my car runs good.

Submariner409
07-10-09, 09:21 AM
welshlad, The temporary gasket and block sealers do not work in this case because the head-to-gasket-to-block seal is compromised in a fashion which allows combustion gas to blow OUT of the cylinder into the coolant as opposed to coolant (carrying the sealant) leaking into a cylinder. The sealant cannot work as intended.

MindyMaucelli
09-22-10, 12:54 PM
I just ordered THERMAGASKET for my 2000 Cadillac Seville SLS on September 20, 2010. I will use it as soon as it arrives. It cost me a total of $265.90 for the kit; which I thought was a little steep. I am a female, and will be doing the flush and fill myself. I will keep everyone updated on how it works. I am NOW just waiting for them to send me a tracking number for the stuff I bought. They claim to have a 100% guarantee that it will work and fix my problem. My Cadillac would be fine when driving a short distance but as soon as the temp gauge would get to 12 o'clock and then about 5-10 minutes at 12 o'clock it would start to work it's way to the 1 o'clock position. (and then keep going) If I would pull over and sit for a few minutes the gauge would slowly go back down. I checked on other sealants like Bar Stop Leak (3 part system) the 1st part is a cooling system and prep cleaner, the 2nd part is a head gasket and block sealant, and the 3rd part is a head gasket and block treatment. I tried to find this product at my local auto parts store and they did not carry it. I checked others as well (CRC 401232 Permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair with Nanotechnology) which I found for about $19.99 at the local auto parts store. (I did not buy it but it says it is compatible with the Northstar engine. I love my car and have owned MANY Cadillacs and will continue to BUY Cadillacs. I live in Kansas City, MO and the winters are sometimes brutal, and if you don't have a 4 wheel drive, you need a Cadillac. BEST CARS EVER! I will keep everyone updated on the progress. I am ALSO very skeptical of this 'Miracle Cure' and my mechanic laughed at me... But hey, it's worth trying. If anyone wants to contact me via email I would be more than happy to respond.

MindyMaucelli
09-22-10, 12:55 PM
my email is at gmail and just use my full name

MindyMaucelli
09-24-10, 09:37 PM
I just ordered THERMAGASKET for my 2000 Cadillac Seville SLS on September 20, 2010. I will use it as soon as it arrives. It cost me a total of $265.90 for the kit; which I thought was a little steep. I am a female, and will be doing the flush and fill myself. I will keep everyone updated on how it works. I am NOW just waiting for them to send me a tracking number for the stuff I bought. They claim to have a 100% guarantee that it will work and fix my problem. My Cadillac would be fine when driving a short distance but as soon as the temp gauge would get to 12 o'clock and then about 5-10 minutes at 12 o'clock it would start to work it's way to the 1 o'clock position. (and then keep going) If I would pull over and sit for a few minutes the gauge would slowly go back down. I checked on other sealants like Bar Stop Leak (3 part system) the 1st part is a cooling system and prep cleaner, the 2nd part is a head gasket and block sealant, and the 3rd part is a head gasket and block treatment. I tried to find this product at my local auto parts store and they did not carry it. I checked others as well (CRC 401232 Permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair with Nanotechnology) which I found for about $19.99 at the local auto parts store. (I did not buy it but it says it is compatible with the Northstar engine. I love my car and have owned MANY Cadillacs and will continue to BUY Cadillacs. I live in Kansas City, MO and the winters are sometimes brutal, and if you don't have a 4 wheel drive, you need a Cadillac. BEST CARS EVER! I will keep everyone updated on the progress. I am ALSO very skeptical of this 'Miracle Cure' and my mechanic laughed at me... But hey, it's worth trying. If anyone wants to contact me via email I would be more than happy to respond.

Okay, here's the update.. It's September 24th, it arrived on my birthday (September 23) I read the instructions several times before I went to attempt it. Now I am a female..47 years old, and if I can do it..ANYONE CAN!
I cut a section from the upper radiator hose, cut the piece in place, tightened it down with breeze clamps, attached the other hose to the surge tank hose..(which I also had to splice) I took a measuring cup out with me and I measures 8 ounces of one, poured it in then measured 4 ounces of the other stuff, and poured it in) Put the cap back on and took her on the highway. I kept it in 3 rd gear so it would run about 2500-3000 RPM's..(and it was rush hour so a couple times I had to drop it down to 2nd gear) Ran it down the highway, turned around headed back and my temp gauge started to creep over to the one o"clock position then it would go back down to the 12 o'clock position.. It did this several times (which scared me) I drove home, sat in my driveway and just put it in Neutral and revved my engine to about 3000 rpm's for another 10 minutes.. I went inside, called Robert (whom was AWESOME through this whole process) I told him that it kept creeping over to the 1 o'clock position. He asked if I could take a photo of the set up and email it to him...I did that. Later on I had not heard from him so I called his cell phone (which he had given me in the beginning) He told me that I had put the bleeder kit on backwards.. I reversed it, took it out again and voila...12 o'clock the whole time..No more creeping over. So today was the real test. I had to drive to work and back.. 70 miles round trip. NO PROBLEM WHAT SO EVER! I even drove to visit my mechanic to show him. He said the resolution that they gave me mad perfect sense. (I have known my mechanic for 30 years) Anyway, I will continue to update as I go through the next couple of weeks. But SO FAR I am pleased with Thermagasket. We'll see how it hold up in the long run. So far I'm convinced.... I am not an easy sell either. I will definitely keep everyone posted. I was worried I would have to replace a head gasket. But it seems that isn't the problem that you're having.. Not for sure, but I spoke to Robert for at least an hour last night to tell him that turning it around made all the difference in the world. I then picked his brain because I was STILL not convinced as to WHY Cadillac would make a faulty coolant system. He explained it to me in layman's terms and it made perfect sense WHY CADILLAC WILL NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Now I understand.. He ALSO gave me some VERY VALUABLE 'money saving, and car saving' tips regarding the Cadillac Northstar engine. I will keep everyone posted when I know more. :yup:

MindyMaucelli
11-13-10, 03:41 AM
I use dit and it fixed my 2000 Cadillac Seville. My mechanic said the same thing, and he laughed at me for even considering using the product... Well guess what.. He was so convinced after mine was fixed that he recently bought some for a friend who had a blown head gasket on his truck.. IT WORKED. Te guy actually drive from Kansas City, MO to St. Louis, MO just after they used it. GREAT PRODUCT!

I would recommend it to ANYONE! (and now my mechanic would too) He has a very large auto repair shop, he is a very honest and wonderful man. I love all his guys who work for him and have known him since I was 15.. I am now 47.
He recently told me that he was so convinced that he was buying a large quantity to keep in the shop..

So there you have it!!!
BUY IT if you need it. You will not EVER regret the purchase.
It's a little pricey, $265.00 for the Cadillac because they require you to purchase a bleeder kit. (not sure if that is necessary but I got it anyway)
It's a bargain compared to buying a new engine..

I have already driven THOUSANDS of miles and not once has it gone past the 12 o'clock (straight up) position on the temp gauge.
Oh, if I have an issue with it you can bet your bottom dollar I will be coming back here and telling everyone. (and I'm pretty sure others would also do the same) Not to mention, their 'Better Business Bureau' rating is almost flawless..
1 negative mark.. That's pretty impressive.

I do not work for them, nor do I personally know them.
I welcome ANYONE to email me if they have a question.
My email address is my username at gmail dot com.
mindymaucelli@gmail.com


I don't believe Thermagasket could repair the head gasket problem for 1K, never mind 15K. I believe you - I know that you used it and you are still trouble free, but if the problem you had was really a head gasket and/or pulled bolts, the Thermagasket could not repair it for longer than a very short while, at best. I have done the repair and seen the problem, and nothing in a bottle would cure it.

That said, if you want to hard wire the fans on, I don't think it will really do any harm. They are on all the time when the AC is on anyway.

RM

MindyMaucelli
11-13-10, 03:46 AM
Still running like a charm.. No problems and I have driven THOUSANDS of miles..
Any questions, feel free to email me. I have already had one guy email me to ask if it worked for me. He has already ordered his and is waiting for it to arrive. He lives in Colorado. I am sure he will be as pleased as I have been. THERMAGASKET DOES WORK!!!



Okay, here's the update.. It's September 24th, it arrived on my birthday (September 23) I read the instructions several times before I went to attempt it. Now I am a female..47 years old, and if I can do it..ANYONE CAN!
I cut a section from the upper radiator hose, cut the piece in place, tightened it down with breeze clamps, attached the other hose to the surge tank hose..(which I also had to splice) I took a measuring cup out with me and I measures 8 ounces of one, poured it in then measured 4 ounces of the other stuff, and poured it in) Put the cap back on and took her on the highway. I kept it in 3 rd gear so it would run about 2500-3000 RPM's..(and it was rush hour so a couple times I had to drop it down to 2nd gear) Ran it down the highway, turned around headed back and my temp gauge started to creep over to the one o"clock position then it would go back down to the 12 o'clock position.. It did this several times (which scared me) I drove home, sat in my driveway and just put it in Neutral and revved my engine to about 3000 rpm's for another 10 minutes.. I went inside, called Robert (whom was AWESOME through this whole process) I told him that it kept creeping over to the 1 o'clock position. He asked if I could take a photo of the set up and email it to him...I did that. Later on I had not heard from him so I called his cell phone (which he had given me in the beginning) He told me that I had put the bleeder kit on backwards.. I reversed it, took it out again and voila...12 o'clock the whole time..No more creeping over. So today was the real test. I had to drive to work and back.. 70 miles round trip. NO PROBLEM WHAT SO EVER! I even drove to visit my mechanic to show him. He said the resolution that they gave me mad perfect sense. (I have known my mechanic for 30 years) Anyway, I will continue to update as I go through the next couple of weeks. But SO FAR I am pleased with Thermagasket. We'll see how it hold up in the long run. So far I'm convinced.... I am not an easy sell either. I will definitely keep everyone posted. I was worried I would have to replace a head gasket. But it seems that isn't the problem that you're having.. Not for sure, but I spoke to Robert for at least an hour last night to tell him that turning it around made all the difference in the world. I then picked his brain because I was STILL not convinced as to WHY Cadillac would make a faulty coolant system. He explained it to me in layman's terms and it made perfect sense WHY CADILLAC WILL NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Now I understand.. He ALSO gave me some VERY VALUABLE 'money saving, and car saving' tips regarding the Cadillac Northstar engine. I will keep everyone posted when I know more. :yup:

rzacc
04-08-11, 03:25 PM
greetings. I saw yoru posts on the Cadillac site and thought Id ask a question.... I have a 97 Eldorado, and found a 2008 motor. Do you know if the problems have been fixed on the later motors? Am I correct in assuming tht the motors will intechange, as the dealer has told me?
Thanks
Ron Z
rzacc@centurytel.net

jimsbox
04-08-11, 06:10 PM
Not interchangable without a LOT of modification. See the sticky at the top of the page at his following link. It is the first sticky.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/northstar-performance-technical-discussion

vincentm
04-08-11, 06:29 PM
Liquid solution for HG? Sorry but i'll remain skeptical..

jimsbox
04-08-11, 06:40 PM
In this case I think skepticism is a sure sign of wisdom.