: Blew my LS6?! See Video



Kmajecki
06-14-08, 11:27 PM
Hey guys, i know long time no post for me.. I've been lurking around for a while though. Many of you helped my through my maggie days and hope you will do so once again.

So i'm driving from a light in this Texas heat, shift from first to 2nd and hear something. I assume it's the pos next to me, but apparently i had the pos (for the moment). I roll into a neighborhood and still dont know what went wrong. Fortunately just about every tool i own happened to be in the trunk. I start taking things apart hoping maybe one side of the ignition coils somehow came unplugged. No such luck.

My current mods are:
227/231 cam
Kooks headers
UUC Shifter
UUC Flywheel
Cutouts

When i did the cam swap, they left the stock rods in telling me if something went wrong they would likely break before causing too much damage. This is my hope for the moment. I'm great with bolt ons, did my maggie several times by myself, shifter, cutouts etc.. But when it comes to internals i leave that to the pros. Anyone have some thoughts as to what this could be? It will "run" but not well and i assume that ticking is possibly a cylinder hitting a valve maybe? The video is short, i didnt want to let it run very long for obvious reasons. I had it towed to Quality Motorsports but they wont be in until Monday and i cant wait that long for a diagnosis. Thanks for any ideas!! :worship:

UIEGb5tMnVk

heavymetals
06-14-08, 11:43 PM
Sounds like your gonna have to pull the valve covers off to see if anything is broken or bent.

Rey
06-14-08, 11:44 PM
Doesn't sound "rod-like" to me. The sound appears from high in the motor, like a broken valve spring, rocker or pushrod.

groverdill
06-14-08, 11:45 PM
top end is my guess.

and I do mean guess!

Kmajecki
06-14-08, 11:54 PM
Well those all sound relatively inexpensive! I had the camera sitting on the windshield wiper shroud. When i had the cam done they replaced the springs, but left the stock pushrods, so hopefully it isn't too bad. The only thing that worries me is i had the oil changed not too long ago and they convinced me to do an engine flush. Essentially they drain the oil, fill it back up with some "detergent" oil, run it for 10 mins, then drain and refill with mobil 1. They assured me no damage would be done to my rings or any seals/gaskets. I was still hesitant as i am not sure how qualified the guys at kwik karr are. I was/am worried some of that detergent crap was still in there and broke down the mobil 1 way early. I would think this could cause something pretty bad to happen.

CIWS
06-15-08, 12:16 AM
Hi Ken, welcome back ! Hope things are able to get worked out for you. :)

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 12:18 AM
Thanks man! Sucks as i was really going to try to make it out tomorrow. Hopefully all will be well be the next meet

CIWS
06-15-08, 12:20 AM
You can still come and check things out. I should be there, I have to leave to go into work in about 30 min for a few hours. Just got an exhaust put on today myself.

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 12:26 AM
And no video yet?! Oh probably in the "other" V forum. I talked to Patrick a few mins ago, he's going to be able to take a look at my car tomorrow so i'll probably either be there or at my dads. Not sure what i'll be driving tomorrow and i need to figure out what i'll be driving until my car is fixed, but if things work out i may stop by. Around 3pm right?

CIWS
06-15-08, 12:32 AM
And no video yet?! Oh probably in the "other" V forum. I talked to Patrick a few mins ago, he's going to be able to take a look at my car tomorrow so i'll probably either be there or at my dads. Not sure what i'll be driving tomorrow and i need to figure out what i'll be driving until my car is fixed, but if things work out i may stop by. Around 3pm right?

Yeah it's from 2-5, so 3 works. What time are you going to Quality ?

I've got static (sitting still idle/rev) videos of the exhaust, but I want some driving / passing by as well before I post it.

Here's a pic though.


http://www.ciws.net/stsv/stsvexhaust1.jpg

jweymar
06-15-08, 12:35 AM
Just wondering why you got rid of the maggie originally and what you changed to? And sorry about your probs, I know it sucks as my maggie just died after only having it on for 7days

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 12:52 AM
Oh i loved the maggie, i was just too expensive and unreliable, for me at least. I prob sold it just when i got all the bugs worked out too! I took the car to a track event with the maggie and for some reason my throttle body went bad and i broke my driveshaft. Just one of the many times i've had to trailer/tow my V, including tonight! As far as i know the buyer of my maggie is very pleased and without issue though so i prob should have kept it. I do get significantly more looks with the cam, headers, and open cutouts than i did with the maggie and i enjoy the low end power, but 3rd gear with the maggie is a hard feeling to beat! I do consider myself relatively lucky though. I've been able to experience stock, maggie, headers and cam all within the first year! Now all thats left is getting her stroked or leasing an 09

Apex Driving Academy Video (took it down for a while. State Farm saw it and called me threatening to drop me!): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4f4lcprqgc

Cam/Flywheel Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6OoHhSniVg

Albertan
06-15-08, 01:52 AM
I'm sorry to tell you it is a spun rod bearing. Last summer my son's 2.4 litre Cavalier made the same noise. Sounded like from up top. Finally did a you tube search and found the exact same sound. Crawled underneath and could hear it very well. It ovaled the throw and I had to replace the crank and rod.
It happened just after he had some work done on the motor.
I think I'd go back to the flush people and show them what happened. See if they want to take any responsibility. I would never do an oil flush.

SLPR 6.0L
06-15-08, 02:05 AM
Top end. Thats what my 92 corrado sounded like when the valves needed adjustment.

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 02:05 AM
Just when i thought i was going to be able to sleep tonight! Well i assume if the crank is bad i might as well go for the 408... Cant imagine it being much more expensive. Patrick said he'll be able to take a look tomorrow, so i guess we'll see. I really hope it's just a spring/pushrod though! Keeping my fingers crossed! Thanks for the input, at least i'll be somewhat prepared for it if thats the case

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 02:07 AM
Top end. Thats what my 92 corrado sounded like when the valves needed adjustment.

It really sounds like it's coming from the driver side near the firewall, just above the spark plugs. I hope this is the case

JonCR96Z
06-15-08, 02:28 AM
Maybe a broke spring? And when you say stock rods, I have to assume that means pushrods, maybe you just bent one and it's not really a big deal.

nikon
06-15-08, 03:49 AM
sounds like a playing card going up against one of my bicycle spokes from when I was younger....did someone stick a playing card on your crank????

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 10:23 AM
Maybe a broke spring? And when you say stock rods, I have to assume that means pushrods, maybe you just bent one and it's not really a big deal.

Yea i meant pushrods. I asked about getting hardened ones and they told me if something happened, like accidentally hitting 1st instead of third, that the stock pushrods would bend or break and not cause as much damage. Fortunately this never happened.

And as far as i know there's no playing cards under my valve covers or on my crank! Should have looked there first i guess!

Howsitgoing
06-15-08, 10:53 AM
I agree. Sounds valetrain related; busted spring, collapsed lifter, bent/cracked pushrod.

CIWS
06-15-08, 11:02 AM
Too much beer in the oil..... :alchi:

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 11:21 AM
Too much beer in the oil..... :alchi:

Damn the juice!

Well thanks for all the thoughts guys, hopefully it turns out to not be that bad after all.

whisler151
06-15-08, 11:28 AM
Good luck! Hope Pat fixes you up good as new!

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 11:41 AM
Thanks, hopefully if it's not that bad he can make it better than new! If it turns out not to be something terrible i may have him upgrade the pushrods and i'm thinking about roller rockers. I'll see what he says about the benefits of those and go from there.

rand49er
06-15-08, 02:45 PM
For cryin' out loud! Pop that driver-side valve cover already!

The suspense is killin' me! :suspense:

I, too, think it's valvetrain related. Something just came loose from the cam job. Yup, somebody didn't torque something down properly ... a rocker arm possibly ... anyway, that's my $0.02.

Albertan
06-15-08, 04:38 PM
Just did a you tube search for spun rod bearings. There are lots of samples.
My son's motor sounded like a really bad lifter or broken spring. I really hope that's what it is but listen to the attached and see if it sounds the same.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=pvm-tfF9Nd4&feature=related

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 08:22 PM
That did sound kinda similar. It's in the parking lot at Quality Motorsports, i would go pop off that cover now... Hmm wonder if that'd take more than 15mins... I'm going try, i'll let ya'll know

rand49er
06-15-08, 09:27 PM
:food-snacking:

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 09:48 PM
For cryin' out loud! Pop that driver-side valve cover already!

The suspense is killin' me! :suspense:

I, too, think it's valvetrain related. Something just came loose from the cam job. Yup, somebody didn't torque something down properly ... a rocker arm possibly ... anyway, that's my $0.02.

Ok so i drove out there and pulled it all apart in the parking lot. As i'm pulling up on the valve cover i realize i've never been so hopeful i would find something broken! So i pull the cover off and find a broken valve spring! I hope this is all that is wrong of course. Hopefully it just wore out after 9 months. In the last pic you can see some metal has fallen back in there. I'd guess a magnet would do the trick, i hope there's not any pieces i cant see.

So at this point i would assume it'd be best to replace all the valve springs right? I wouldnt imagine they sell individual springs anyway. While he's doing that, what are everyone's thoughts on roller rockers? Should i upgrade to those?

Oh and thanks for pushing me Rand, otherwise i'd be stressing until tomorrow!

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r246/Kmajecki/Photo_061508_001.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r246/Kmajecki/Photo_061508_003.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r246/Kmajecki/Photo_061508_005.jpg

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 09:59 PM
Hey i just noticed the green paint on the side of the broken spring, looks like the others have it too. That's not indicative of a stock valve spring is it?!

JonCR96Z
06-15-08, 10:13 PM
Those don't look like dual springs, and with the size of your cam I'd say it wouldn't hurt to go that route. And get some chromoly push rods to help keep the weight down.

Stockers rockers have come apart in the past and spewed needle bearings everywhere (not saying it will happen, as there were only a few cases). Some do rockers, some don't. Its just preference. New rockers will reduce some friction loss with the roller tip and stockers may flex under a heavy load, but we're talking about .001% hp gain from that and they guarantee that you don't scatter bearings through out the engine. They will however add some weight on the valve train which could aid in valve float issues, but with strong springs and the lightweight LS6 valves it should never be an issue. Yella Terra-Ultra Lites are the considered by many to be the best. Mostly due to weight and strength. So they would be the ones to get, if you did (check eBay).

Jon

JonCR96Z
06-15-08, 10:15 PM
Hey i just noticed the green paint on the side of the broken spring, looks like the others have it too. That's not indicative of a stock valve spring is it?!

LS6 springs are yellow, not sure what you have.

Jon

Edit: Just checked, some LS6 may have green. So might want to ask whoever did your cam swap. Stock springs are only good to .550 lift and I'm sure you're well above that, which may be the reason for the break.

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 10:22 PM
Cool thanks for all the info man! I was told the springs were upgraded when the cam swap was done, just wanted to make sure. I've had the stock cam put back in once and wouldnt think they would put the stock springs back in at that time. Well maybe i'll just keep it simple and just replace the broken spring/springs. I was told the chromoly push rods could cause some damage if something went wrong, but if it'll make a hp difference i'll get them done. It already revs up fast, but i'm always interested in ways to make it rev up faster, so lightening things up should help.

Kmajecki
06-15-08, 10:27 PM
some LS6 may have green.

The guy fixing it is the guy that did the cam swap, so he should know what springs are in there. It lasted 9 months with this configuration, so if they were stock springs i would think they would have broken sooner. I can't imagine this guy making a mistake like that, he's pretty thorough! I'm just glad it's not something worse!

Albertan
06-16-08, 12:16 AM
Glad I was wrong. I don't think I have said that before!

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 01:27 AM
Cool thanks for all the info man! I was told the springs were upgraded when the cam swap was done, just wanted to make sure. I've had the stock cam put back in once and wouldnt think they would put the stock springs back in at that time. Well maybe i'll just keep it simple and just replace the broken spring/springs. I was told the chromoly push rods could cause some damage if something went wrong, but if it'll make a hp difference i'll get them done. It already revs up fast, but i'm always interested in ways to make it rev up faster, so lightening things up should help.

You're like one of a handful that doesn't have a hardened push rod with a cam. As far as hp gain it would be like the rockers, stockers may flex resulting in less lift from the cam, but very small difference. Stockers would be closer to there limit however with bigger cam lobes and stronger valve springs.

Here's a good quote from LS1tech:

The pushrods were not designed to be a fusible link in the valvetrain. If you want to protect your engine, run a valvetrain that can handle the rpm AND learn to shift properly dammit. If one is over revving their engine on a regular basis, the answer is not get stock pushrods so they can bend. The answer lies in the driver and to a small extent his link to the car via the shifter, the stick and the knob.

To keep that valve train safe run springs that won't float in the upper rpm. Get pushrods that won't bend under high rpm load. Simple as that.

Jon

Twitch
06-16-08, 10:03 AM
That's a car guy for sure.:thumbsup: The car's already at the shop. But he can't wait one day, and takes it apart in the parking lot himself.
Glad its not a big deal.

Tony

rand49er
06-16-08, 10:09 AM
Glad I was wrong. I don't think I have said that before!Years ago, my dad had a problem with a 283 Chevy motor with a loose rod cap. Wasn't the same thing, I know, but all dad had to do was pop the pan and tighten it up. Thank goodness Ken's wasn't a spun bearing ... that would have been a little more involved especially if it had galled the crank journal.

Hey, Ken, I was going to say that a couple of guys (ronr for one, I believe) have had broken stock springs, but I won't say that now that you've learned that yours were upgraded with the cam swap. :canttalk:

Glad this was such a minor deal and not a major teardown.

Kmajecki
06-16-08, 10:26 AM
Thanks for all the help guys! I will update once i get the official word from the shop.

That was a great quote about the push rods. I haven't hit a wrong gear yet, so maybe i should go ahead and make the upgrade. I won't deny i occasional hit some pretty high rpms, so maybe shifting a bit earlier and getting the pushrods would do me some good.

Albertan, i too am glad you were wrong but i do appreciate your input. At least i was somewhat preparing myself for a worst case scenario.

So swapping out a spring looks pretty easy right? One bolt? Hoping i can get my daily driver back soon!

STAGEUP
06-16-08, 12:00 PM
Looks like its going to be an easy fix! Just pray the piston wasnt slapping the valve.

Kmajecki
06-16-08, 12:52 PM
Just talked to Quality Motorsports! It's been almost a year on this cam swap and he's still standing behind his work. Said he'd fix that spring for free, or if i wanted I could pay cost on a new set of 16 springs and he'd do the labor for free. Sounds more than fair to me! My worries of paying for an engine rebuild just turned into $150ish for new springs :bouncy:

Apparently the springs in there now are comp 918's. Not a dual spring but they are upgrades form stock and good for up to .625. Is there really a noticeable benefit going to a dual spring?

Albertan
06-16-08, 01:49 PM
Looks like its going to be an easy fix! Just pray the piston wasnt slapping the valve.
Gee, that reminds me of a friend of mine. Years ago, like 1969 he had a COPO 69 Camaro. He used to take it to the strip. About every second outing he would float the valves and bend them. I think he got quite good at removing the heads! I lost track of him, I hope he kept it. It would be his retirement nest egg.

lawfive
06-16-08, 02:23 PM
did someone stick a playing card on your crank????


as far as i know there's no playing cards on my crank! Should have looked there first i guess!


You're like one of a handful that doesn't have a hardened rod.


slapping

LOL, and they wonder why guys like cars.

CIWS
06-16-08, 02:31 PM
Just talked to Quality Motorsports! Said he'd fix that spring for free, or if i wanted I could pay cost on a new set of 16 springs and he'd do the labor for free. Sounds more than fair to me!

Glad to hear dude. I was hoping it wasn't too serious. :thumbsup:

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 02:34 PM
LOL, and they wonder why guys like cars.

Seriously though, who doesn't like a handful of hardened rod?

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 02:39 PM
Apparently the springs in there now are comp 918's. Not a dual spring but they are upgrades form stock and good for up to .625. Is there really a noticeable benefit going to a dual spring?

It would just be extra insurance for you. They wouldn't weaken as quickly and do better against valve float. There's no downside other than price.

Jon

Leeman
06-16-08, 02:40 PM
Hope you didn't bend a valve.

-- Lee

trukk
06-16-08, 02:50 PM
Just talked to Quality Motorsports! It's been almost a year on this cam swap and he's still standing behind his work. Said he'd fix that spring for free, or if i wanted I could pay cost on a new set of 16 springs and he'd do the labor for free. Sounds more than fair to me! My worries of paying for an engine rebuild just turned into $150ish for new springs :bouncy:

Apparently the springs in there now are comp 918's. Not a dual spring but they are upgrades form stock and good for up to .625. Is there really a noticeable benefit going to a dual spring?

You might want to have him check with Comp regarding the 918's, they had a bad batch about a year ago, and you might get them to swap out all 16 for free if they fall in the bad range (assuming your builder still has the order/serial numbers). If they do that, perhaps they'd swing some kind of deal on the 921 duals?

I went with the Patriot Gold Extreme Dual spring valves, for just this reason. You broke a spring and got lucky not to drop a valve, and really fubar something. With the duals you can snap one, and the 2nd is still there to help limp the car to a safe stop. You should be able to hear the failure, but it should be enought protection to prevent catastophe. They are good up to .660 lift. Running a cam that has a lot lower lift (like mine at max of .609), will just extend the life of the valve springs, and prevent almost all valve float issues.

I went with hardened chromoly PR's, Yella Terra Ultra lite rockers, and the Dual springs, to have a nice and stable valve train, to (hopefully) prevent these kind of issues. Thus far I have about 3 months and 4k miles on the cam install. No issues so far (knock on wood).

Ultralites run about $400
Pushrods were a about $130
Springs (w/ Ti retainers, and Super7 locks) were about $280

Good luck.

-Chris

heavymetals
06-16-08, 03:26 PM
.609 is not a "low lift" :sneaky:

I put in Comp Cams:

Dual springs, Ti retainers, #1500 shaft mount rockers and pushrods.

Rule of thumb is on any motor work (cams, blower, nitrous) change the springs bare minimum.

Kmajecki
06-16-08, 03:52 PM
LOL, and they wonder why guys like cars.

And now i remember what i missed most about this forum. Nice compilation of quotes there! :histeric:

I think he already started on it so it's prob too late to do a dual spring. With all 16 being new it should last me a while, at least until the new V comes out and i live in a cardboard box to get one!

I just called and they have started but stepped out for a bit. I forgot to tell him about that chunk of broken spring you can see in that last pic i posted. If he hasn't already picked up some new springs or started installing some i'll see if i can switch to dual springs, they dont sound terribly more expensive. Thanks Trukk!

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 04:00 PM
Blah blah blah...like mine at max of .609. Blah blah.

Good luck.

-Chris

I'm sure you posted it, but your cam was ground exactly as speced? No variance anywhere?

Jon

trukk
06-16-08, 04:26 PM
I'm sure you posted it, but your cam was ground exactly as speced? No variance anywhere?

Jon

It was pretty dead nutz on.

Spec:
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/2919/camspecspatgoe1.jpg

Delivered product (adcole report):
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/4210/adcoleqg4.jpg



http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2004/139034-cam-results-57-rwhp-45-rwtq.html

EDIT: For everyone playing along at home, actual lift is determined by the "max lift" numbers multimplied by the rocker ratio (in this case 1.7).
BTW, Jon...why do you ask?


-Chris

trukk
06-16-08, 04:35 PM
.609 is not a "low lift" :sneaky:

I put in Comp Cams:

Dual springs, Ti retainers, #1500 shaft mount rockers and pushrods.

Rule of thumb is on any motor work (cams, blower, nitrous) change the springs bare minimum.


HM,

I was refering to the difference between my max lift of .609 vs. max supported lift from my springs .660.

Also there are so many people out there now getting 23* duration and .61*-.64* lift cams, that a .609/.588 doesn't seem that *BIG* anymore.

What springs did you go with? 921's?

-Chris

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 04:51 PM
Well I've been messing around with some cams lately and when you stated that .609 above I just glanced and your post and thought about the 224/228 that was speced to you and knowing that you're anal about the details, I figure that you would have put the real numbers in the sig. (that sentence might need some more punctuation?)

Also, since my cam was on the same lobes as yours, and none of my numbers were the same. Some bigger, some smaller:hmm:? PatG even told me that they would be.

And technically by averaging your lobes you are really at 0.6100875"/0.58745625". Might want to change your sig so you won't mislead anyone.

Jon

Kmajecki
06-16-08, 05:06 PM
Huh?

Man that is a lot of info! So what does the LSA mean? The lower the rougher right? Mine is a .113 and with the idle at 1000 i still have some issues running it for the first 30-45 seconds. Between the cam and the lightweight flywheel it's almost too easy to stall! Still love it though, almost wish i had gone .112

trukk
06-16-08, 05:07 PM
And technically by averaging your lobes you are really at 0.6100875"/0.58745625". Might want to change your sig so you won't mislead anyone.

Jon

LOL, I'm already at my 500 character sig limit, and I've been to lazy to gif-i-fy it.

223.8625/228.4125 111.00375 + 0.084285714285714285714285714285714 0.6100875"/0.58745625 does have a nice ring to it though.

-Chris

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 05:18 PM
Huh?

Man that is a lot of info! So what does the LSA mean? The lower the rougher right? Mine is a .113 and with the idle at 1000 i still have some issues running it for the first 30-45 seconds. Between the cam and the lightweight flywheel it's almost too easy to stall! Still love it though, almost wish i had gone .112

LSA stand for Lobe Separation Angle. It's the measured angle between the Intake Center Line (ICL) and the Exhaust Center Line (ECL) for the given cylinder. Or in other words the angle between the highest point of the intake and exhaust lobe. Less LSA means more overlap, which is necessary for high rpm power but not so good for idle/low-end.

Usually means worse idle, given the same duration. With a 113 on a 227/231 shouldn't be that bad, and moving to a 112 would probably be unnoticeable at best.

Your post makes me feel good about my big cam/light flywheel combo. I can't wait! Just when I thought I couldn't drive any worse.

Jon

JonCR96Z
06-16-08, 05:20 PM
LOL, I'm already at my 500 character sig limit, and I've been to lazy to gif-i-fy it.

223.8625/228.4125 111.00375 + 0.084285714285714285714285714285714 0.6100875"/0.58745625 does have a nice ring to it though.

-Chris

No need to skimp on the details. Is your timing set retarded 0.084285714285714285714285714285714 degrees? You might be giving up some top end there if it's not.

Kmajecki
06-16-08, 07:56 PM
So it was too good to be true.... They used and endoscope to look at the valve, and apparently it got bent slighty, 3-4degrees. The revised cost of repairs will now determine whether i do a dual spring or not. May still be able to get her back tomorrow though, yay!

heavymetals
06-16-08, 08:11 PM
HM,

I was refering to the difference between my max lift of .609 vs. max supported lift from my springs .660.

Also there are so many people out there now getting 23* duration and .61*-.64* lift cams, that a .609/.588 doesn't seem that *BIG* anymore.

What springs did you go with? 921's?

-Chris

I believe so, it has been so long though I really don't remember.

I just have to much in my motor to be cheapo on springs.

As for lift, I realize that max lift can get pretty insane, especially if you flycut.

rand49er
06-16-08, 11:30 PM
So it was too good to be true.... They used and endoscope to look at the valve, and apparently it got bent slighty, 3-4degrees. The revised cost of repairs will now determine whether i do a dual spring or not. May still be able to get her back tomorrow though, yay!Rats! Probably happened when you did the YouTube vid. :banghead:

Poppin' the head is a much bigger deal ... you know, gaskets and all.

Glad they checked. Sounds like a good shop. :thumbsup:

heavymetals
06-16-08, 11:59 PM
Head removal is not that bad.

Just make sure you get the right bolt set for it (they are not reuseable).

REPLACE ALL THE SPRINGS!

CIWS
06-17-08, 12:51 AM
So it was too good to be true.... They used and endoscope to look at the valve, and apparently it got bent slighty, 3-4degrees.



AARRRRRRR !!! :pir8:

Kmajecki
06-17-08, 12:04 PM
Well we're up on the cost now :crying2:

I am getting the dual springs, new gasket/bolts for the head, new valve and some machining on the head, oil change, radiator fluid, etc

Good news is it will be done today though. Towing and all (+oil change, dual spring upgrade, new bolts etc..) this will cost me almost $1k, still better than the spun rod bearing costs i'm sure.

When did mods start costing more money? :hmm:

CIWS
06-17-08, 12:15 PM
When did mods start costing more money? :hmm:


http://www.ciws.net/images/rodserling.jpg

urbanski
06-17-08, 12:52 PM
lol @ C