: EXT broken I Need Help I Pulled codes Sensors

Lu Scola
06-14-08, 01:11 AM
I have a 2003 EXT and i had a used tranny installed 2 weeks ago. My engine light came on a week ago. Its not running right. The truck is consuming alot of gas. Its every other day riding rough, some days when I push the gas it seems to not pick up, then I step on the gas harder and it feels like Im in 2nd gear doing 70. I dont think its the trans, it seems ok. I pulled the codes and they are:

P0154B - Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit Insufficiant Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1

P0155 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 1

Anyone had this problem? I need a part number (s)

Where is this sensor located?

How hard a fix is it?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Lu Scola
06-15-08, 06:15 AM
Nobody Knows Huh???

Lu Scola
06-15-08, 06:17 AM
Anyone have any insight on this issue. I started the truck this morning, and it drove fine all day. I filled up my tank this evening, turned the truck back on then BAMMM its malfunctioning again,

06-15-08, 07:28 AM
dead O2 sensor or dead fuse to it. order new from Lindsay caddy -->

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Lu Scola
06-16-08, 12:48 AM
I started the truck today to check the fuses while running. The engine was running rough and visibly shaking. All the fuses are good. Would that bad O2 sensor affect the truck that bad or could it be another issue that the diagnostic machine didnt read. I didnt go to autozone for the check engine light. I used a $6,000 diagnostic tester that has bluetooth remote screen.

06-16-08, 06:34 AM
Make sure the O2 sensor wires were not damaged when the trans was put in, or maybe check the connectors to make sure that are snapped together good.

06-16-08, 08:28 AM
Those codes indicate to me that you could have a dying or lazy O2 sensor.
If the heater is bad then the O2 sensor will not warm up fast enough for proper closed loop operation.
If the codes set the computer should fall onto a backup fuel strategy which might reduce performance and mileage but it shouldn't be too noticeable.
The sensor will not affect cold engine operation but after about 2 minutes, depending on the failure it could cause poor running.

It should be properly diagnosed by checking the other data parameters and doing some specific tests.
I'd agree that the wiring could have been damaged during a transmission R&R, be sure to check that.
Going on codes only it does look like your bank 2 pre-cat sensor may need to be replaced. Check with Luke for pricing, post a parts request in the Lindsay Cadillac Vendor area and he'll get right to you.
The pre catalyst O2 is between the exhaust ports and the converter and bank 2 is the right side bank on Escalade.

Lu Scola
06-16-08, 09:53 PM
Thanks guys, Is this a easy fix. diagrams would be helpful or picture. I have a service shop at my lot, but we have been really busy and i havent had a chance to get it in yet. I get wholesale parts cheap, so I can get the part. Do I need a lift or could i use my ramps to pull it up on. Is this something I could lay under the truck to replace or are there parts in the way that need to be removed. I am more of a interior tech myself, I can fix anything inside a vehicle. I have not really much experience under the hood. i do Audio/ Video set ups and custom jobs, like installing 10 t.v's in a car, and other odd jobs like that. I looked up some on Auto zones website. There are some that say: Where is this sensor located??? Any pics?1. Located at the cataylic converter
2. Located After the cataylic converter
3. located before the catalyc converter.

Which one do i need? If someone has a minute to look up on AutoZone and verify the correct part number.
Also should I eventually replace all the O2 sensors, but I am foremost worried about the one I need to be fixed now.

2003 Cadillac Escalade EXT 6.0 engine AWD--- Bank 2 Sensor 1

Heres the codes again:

P0154B - Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit Insufficiant Activity Bank 2 Sensor 1

P0155 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Performance Bank 2 Sensor 1

Lastly i really appreciate your guys input, I trust your input more than some guy who works at any local parts store.

I drove the truck today with no problems, I only drove for about an hour though. Are you guys anywhere near Maryland. I will pay you to look at it. I can even come to you if your not too far away. I do not want to take it to the dealer

Lu Scola
06-17-08, 02:43 AM
You say "It should be properly diagnosed by checking the other data parameters and doing some specific tests"

Could you elaborate a little more on the other data parameters, and specific tests. I just want to know more info to know exactly what to do or what to have my mechanic to look for. He is a little old, so I want to be very direct when getting this resolved. i want to be able to have this truck back in great driving conditions without any more worries. I seemed to all happen right after I got an oil change. i dont know if they put the correct oil in. We have a big drum that has all the oil we use to change the cars on our lot.

What is the correct oil? I may do an oil change myself and buy the correct oil.

i really do appreciate your help

I have a mint condition 1994 Lexus SC400 that I havent ever had a problem with. I buy a 03 EXT and having trouble. I just want a reliable work truck.

Lu Scola
06-17-08, 02:53 AM
If possible could you call me after looking on the Autozone website and tell me the correct part number to get. I want to get the part on my way to work, and I may have to travel to whatever Autozone has it in stock, so I dont have to order it. They seem to have the lowest price on the Bank 2 Sensor 1 Oxygen sensors. Is this sensor located where?:

1. Located at the cataylic converter
2. Located After the cataylic converter
3. located before the catalyc converter.

My cell number is 443-806-7963 (Lu)

If I dont answer because of bad serivce area, please leave message telling me where the sensor is located, and possibly the Autozone part number.

I work 45 minutes away from home and there is like 7 Autozones near home, so if I call and find one I rather get it on the way in instead of leaving work and go back toward home to get it. I can send you a few dollars for your help via paypal. I greatly appreciate your knowledge.

06-17-08, 06:41 AM
Well I don't really have the time to go into detail, but as stated sensor one will be between the exhaust manifold and the converter. I'd get underneath to inspect the wiring.
Just follow the exhaust and you should see the sensor without much trouble. Follow the wires up the harness and be sure the sensor is plugged in and the wires are not damaged.
With a schematic in hand you should easily be able to check the heater circuits for power and ground.
From there I would look at the data list, watch the O2 sensor parameters and turn the key to run with the engine off. As the sensors heat up the values will drop from about 450 mV, the hotter they get the lower they should get since there is only air in the pipes. If one sensor doesn't drop that means the heater is not working.
If you have good power and ground to the sensor, the wires are not damaged, and the voltage doesn't change you likely need a sensor.
I always recommend OE sensors, aftermarket ones may work but they may be designed to fit in a few different cars. Delco sensors are calibrated for what you put them in. If you can get Delco sensors at your local parts house then get them, otherwise find a Delco supplier or go to a dealer.

Lu Scola
06-17-08, 04:33 PM
Thanks for all you help ewill3rd!!!:worship:
I just read this message when i got home. I went and got the original sensor made for my EXT. I put the truck on the lift and low and behold the guy forgot to plug the sensor in. I went ahead and replaced it with the new one since I had driven all the way to the dealer to pick it up. I ran the diagnostic machine again, and everything is good. NO Codes..NO Check Engine Light. Its running perfect again!!! Thanks for your time to share some info with me.

So if anybody needs a (Oxygen Sensor) O2 Sensor for Bank 2 Sensor 1, let me know I will sell it for 30 bucks. It is in excellent condition, and would have still worked perfect, if somebody would have remembered to plug it in!!!:highfive:

06-18-08, 09:02 AM
Well at least you got a fresh new sensor. You can keep it and use it if the other side fails.
Both pre-cats are the same part number.

Yeah, most electrical parts have to be plugged in to work. :lol:

Seriously though... glad to hear it is all better.

Lu Scola
06-18-08, 05:53 PM
LOL Thanks!!! Yeah I think I will keep it I didnt know they were the same. What would the other side be specified as in the computer. Like this was diagnosed as Bank 2 sensor 1, so the opossite side would be?

06-18-08, 10:55 PM
It is fairly simple really.
Bank 1 is the bank with cylinder 1 on it, bank 2 has ... you guessed it... cylinder 2.
GM numbers banks odd and even so it is easy, it actually has to do with the way the rods are connected to the crankshaft, if the engine is upside down you just count from front to back.

Sensor 1 is pre cat, and you just go back, on most modern cars you have 1 pre cat and 1 post cat for each bank.
Some older models were more complicated. There was a sensor 2 in a collector pre cat and the post cat was sensor 3, etc.
On that one it is pretty simple. Sensor 1 is pre and sensor 2 is post.
They are usually the same part number from bank to bank for the pre cats and the same for the post cats.
Easier on production that way.
That should make it easy.. if I just said it right :lol:

Lu Scola
06-18-08, 11:43 PM
Thanks for the info. i have one other question.
Ok I had a used trans put in. Now when I drive I cant rememver if its 2nd or 3rd gear but its a little windey. It seem to take a sec to switch into gear. Do you think its needs some kind of ajustment, maybe a solanoid, or should I get another trans? The used trans has 101 day warranty. I just want the truck to run smooth and normal. I havent had my mechanic drive it yet. We have a used car lot and our mechanics work on a wide variety of used mid-to-high end vehicles. We usually buy good low milage cars from the auction so we rarely do any trans work, or anything major. Most of the stuff we do is post state inspection repairs to get them to pass the inspection. Thanks for your time. Let me know what you think I should do.

No check engine lights are on. No codes in the diagnostic.

06-19-08, 07:16 AM
Usually when you rebuild or replace a transmission you need to clear the shift adapts.
The computer might be compensating for a problem that your old transmission had.
It should eventually relearn the shift patterns, but if you know someone with a scan tool that can reset the shift adapts that would be a good place to start.
Otherwise it is hard to say you need another one based on your description.
If you are nervous have someone else drive it. Heck some tranny shops will even road test it for free to tell you what they think.

Lu Scola
06-24-08, 04:29 PM
Well today I am riving about 70mph on Interstate 95 and all a sudden I lost gears and had to drift into the shoulder. I have NO gears at all No Reverse, Drive, 1, 2, or 3. The gear shifter is very easy when I go up and down thru gear selections. You know how when you pull down on the gear shifter it has some tension going into each gear, well this you can just go up and down very easy. I had it towed but it probably wont get looked at until friday. Ive had the tranny only a few weeks. It was used and came with a 101 day warranty. When I put in gear it just reves the RPM's with absolutly no movement, its like being in nuetral revving the engine. No check engine light came on.... I am very frustrated with this truck. I just had all this aftermarket work done, then I have to get another tranny, now its broken again. The only positive out of this is I am saving gas money by not driving it!

Could this be some cable broke or slipped or something?

Is this a easy fix and how long?

Should I replace the trans again?

Lu Scola
06-26-08, 12:13 AM
ewill3rd any clue whats going on or a guess?

06-26-08, 06:25 AM
Something like that requires an actual inspection for any real determination.
It could be something as basic as a loss of fluid (leak) to an internal part failure.
Did the installer offer any kind of warranty, labor or otherwise?
Check the basics, inspect the linkage and make sure it is still connected to the transmission properly, check the fluid level (idling in park) hot if you can.

If those things are okay then you probalby need to have it looked at by a trans shop or call the place that installed it for you.

Lu Scola
06-26-08, 11:03 PM
Hopefully tommorrow (friday) it will get looked at. I work for a dealership at home part time. The truck was a trade-in and I bought it wholesale for whAT it was traded in for. The shop we have put the trans in for free. The tranny was bought from a place with used parts. they offer a 101 day warranty on the transmission itself. The labor will be free again, buy i hope its not some other part ouside the trans itself. If so i will have to buy more parts. I dont really know what all comes with a trans. I just seen the big tuba like part and i left the lot and picked up the truck the following day. When I did pick uo the truck after the replacement. The gear shifter was really tight and hard to put in gear. They did someting to loosen it up some. It was also leaking a little trans fluid drips from bottom. They stopped that supposably. It was a little off like I told you before and you were saying about clearing shift patern or something like that. The it just went out on me while driving and the gear shifter is really easy to move up and down the shift gear selections. there is no reverse, or any other gear it just revvs like in nuetral. I hope it was just a belt slipped or something easy. i just want my truck back and running the way it should. I am paying a truck payment that I have not been able to enjoy yet. I apppreciate your input.

06-27-08, 06:24 AM
Transmissions are full of all kinds of stuff. Usually if it is a clutch, gear, or other hard part failure it is not hard to distinguish as there will be lots of noise and you won't really wonder what is wrong.
Fluid loss or internal leakage are harder to diagnose (sort of).
It really could be a lot of things, they just need to check it over. Do you know if they flushed the transmission cooler? A mistake a lot of folks used to make is leaving the metal contaminated fluid in the lines and trans cooler, then putting a new/replacement one in and sucking all the metal and what have you right back into the new tranny. As you can imagine this can certainly create issues.

Lu Scola
07-01-08, 12:11 PM
Im thinking its the linkage. I dont think there is park gear either.

07-01-08, 09:35 PM
There is an adjuster on the cable, it could have broken or not been latched properly.

Lu Scola
07-02-08, 07:09 PM
Today has been a battle with the place I got the transmission from. Our mechanics said the trans is bad, they the trans place say no its your transfer case. We put the scanner on it and it has 0's across the board. I forgot exactly what it said. Slip something. We put the scanner on it in drive and hit the gas and the scanner read the rpm's and it showed gears but was zerod out. So I called the trans place back and they said to pull a transline by the radiator. There is NOOOO transmission fluid pumping out. I called again and told them that and they said we will have to call you back. No contact has been made back to me, I hope they dont jerk me around. They are trying to slip out of there 101 day warranty and stick me with this transmission that does not work properly. WTF!!!