: 1990 Brougham 307 V8



MadCaddie69
06-10-08, 08:51 PM
Hello, everybody! It' been a while since I've been on. Well, here's the update. After 6 months, I have somebody through a friend that is working on my car. He picked it up last Saturday. H's gonna check the 307 to find out why it won't start. I hope he does. It might be a fuel pump, bad ignition coil, timing, etc. If it all works out, I'll have my baby back. Can't wait!!

MadCaddie69
06-24-08, 08:04 PM
Update: It was the timing chain! All this time AND money! What the flip?!!

N0DIH
07-07-08, 03:02 PM
Chain or cam gear? Not that those ever would fail.....

MadCaddie69
08-05-08, 07:29 PM
From what the guy said, pretty much the whole thing. He says it was pretty worn. It happens. BTW, how have you been, dude?

N0DIH
08-09-08, 04:21 PM
I am doing good, been out of town some, busy with work (got a new computer system that is giving us fits) and just not having as much time as I want to for "play"....

I pulled the original timing set of out of my 307 @ 150K and it looked like new. I guess my dad's driving and 2.14's does wonders for that. I honestly think the roller cam engines helped make them live a lot longer, that is one weak spot in Olds, the cam is forced into the block with the lifter taper and once the cam wears, the cam walks around and will wipe the distrib gear and the timing set will get beat on and the fiberglass one will start chipping teeth.

The 85-up 307's and diesel 350's don't have the issue when they went to rollers....

theme106
08-11-08, 11:41 AM
hey wats up i just got into this n i have some wat of the same problem my 93 fleetwood was running good until recent ly but now it will only stay on for a few minuets and then turn off and sometimes has problems tarting do u think it might be the same problem i have done this to it changed spark plugs and sparkplug wires, changed distributor cap and coil checked the timing to make sure the fireing order was correct but still nothing im starting to think that its getting worse as time goes on ..HELP me out here im fresh outta ideas

MadCaddie69
08-13-08, 03:30 PM
hey wats up i just got into this n i have some wat of the same problem my 93 fleetwood was running good until recent ly but now it will only stay on for a few minuets and then turn off and sometimes has problems tarting do u think it might be the same problem i have done this to it changed spark plugs and sparkplug wires, changed distributor cap and coil checked the timing to make sure the fireing order was correct but still nothing im starting to think that its getting worse as time goes on ..HELP me out here im fresh outta ideas

Hmmmm......... I think your fuel line may need to be cleaned out. MY mom's DTS does that sometimes too. Buy a can of Seafoam engine treatment. Remove the vacuum line. Pour half of the Seafoam treatment in a cup. Start your engine. Let the vacuum line suck the Seafoam from the cup. Then pour the rest of it in your oil reserve. Turn your car off for 5 minutes. Then start it up and rev it to 3000 rpm. Keep it that way for about 5 to 10 minutes. The dirt comes out of the exhaust. Then Voila!! You're good. Try that first and see what happens..

MadCaddie69
08-25-08, 10:22 PM
So the timing chain was replaced, but the car still won't start. This is ridiculous! All this time, I've been waiting for the day that my pride and joy would be resurrected but I'm not getting nothing. Some say the carburetor might be cooked. When I turned the ignition, gas would spit out of it as an escape. However, I had it completely rebuilt. So that can't be the case. Anybody have a clue to what might need to be done?

theme106
08-26-08, 02:04 PM
try wat happend with mine might be the fule pump that might be the reason for the gas but im just guessing at this point any help is good help i guess

cadillac_al
08-27-08, 02:00 PM
Gas shooting out of carb? Sounds like the distributer could be off a tooth or 180 off. So your mechanic gave the car back to you not running?

MadCaddie69
08-27-08, 06:00 PM
try wat happend with mine might be the fule pump that might be the reason for the gas but im just guessing at this point any help is good help i guess

I'll have him check the fuel pump. The timing chain was definitely wornout! The car hasn't been running for a year.

MadCaddie69
08-27-08, 06:04 PM
Gas shooting out of carb? Sounds like the distributer could be off a tooth or 180 off. So your mechanic gave the car back to you not running?

No, he's still got the car. He said he'll fiddle with the distributor to make sure it's in correctly. We'll see what happen. I miss my car so bad. I have absolutely no desire of gettin rid of it!

N0DIH
08-30-08, 12:57 PM
If dizzy was dropped in backwards, swap all the plug wires across from each other.

MadCaddie69
09-23-08, 06:18 PM
If dizzy was dropped in backwards, swap all the plug wires across from each other.

Some dude told me that he had the same problem with a Caprice. He changed his timing chain and the car still wouldn't start. Come to find out, his ECM fuse was blown. He said he changed it and it started right up! Do you think I can try that?

N0DIH
09-23-08, 06:57 PM
If blown, the carb'd 307 won't stop running, it will run pig rich, but won't stop running. If the HEI fuse, yes, it will stop running. But ECM fuse it will go rich and fixed to base timing (10 degrees or so)

Oh, and IIRC on the 307, the dizzy turns the opposite way as a Chevy, so make sure the wires are going around the same.

http://www.oldsmobility.com/tuneup.htm

The rotor turns CCW, and the wires should be 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 going also CCW. Chevy it is CW and the rotor turns CW.

This is from the side of the cam the dist gear sits.

Easy way to check. Pull #1 plug, pull cap off. Stick finger in the plug hole lightly, have someone bump over engine till you feel compression, note where rotor is pointing, that is where #1 is.

MadCaddie69
09-24-08, 10:56 PM
If blown, the carb'd 307 won't stop running, it will run pig rich, but won't stop running. If the HEI fuse, yes, it will stop running. But ECM fuse it will go rich and fixed to base timing (10 degrees or so)

Oh, and IIRC on the 307, the dizzy turns the opposite way as a Chevy, so make sure the wires are going around the same.

http://www.oldsmobility.com/tuneup.htm

The rotor turns CCW, and the wires should be 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 going also CCW. Chevy it is CW and the rotor turns CW.

This is from the side of the cam the dist gear sits.

Easy way to check. Pull #1 plug, pull cap off. Stick finger in the plug hole lightly, have someone bump over engine till you feel compression, note where rotor is pointing, that is where #1 is.

Yeah. We did that. We bumped it, checked over the plug wires, and everything. The old timing chain was definitely worn out. However, when I tried to start the car the first time, I saw a big spark come from the distributor. Any clues? If anything, after what you wrote, I'm thinking the HEI fuse must've blown. Other than that, it should have started. At least I would think so. I'm going over there tomorrow to check it out.

N0DIH
09-24-08, 11:58 PM
I have had on 2 instances the ignition module pop when the fuel system crapped on me (fuel pump once and float other). Makes NO sense, but that is what it was.

Are you getting ANY spark?
1. To get spark on a HEI you need the coil to have power (ensure the BAT lead to the cap has +12v when ignition is on.
2. The reluctor or pickup coil needs to be working. IIRC, you can check it with a meter on voltage scale, pretty low settings, and crank engine (or some other way to spin the rotor). It should go up and down, might work on AC scale better. Same purpose as the points have on the older engines.

You need fuel, spark and spark at right time. IIRC you can physically remove the ECM and it will run.


Yeah. We did that. We bumped it, checked over the plug wires, and everything. The old timing chain was definitely worn out. However, when I tried to start the car the first time, I saw a big spark come from the distributor. Any clues? If anything, after what you wrote, I'm thinking the HEI fuse must've blown. Other than that, it should have started. At least I would think so. I'm going over there tomorrow to check it out.

MadCaddie69
10-04-08, 02:15 PM
I have had on 2 instances the ignition module pop when the fuel system crapped on me (fuel pump once and float other). Makes NO sense, but that is what it was.

Are you getting ANY spark?
1. To get spark on a HEI you need the coil to have power (ensure the BAT lead to the cap has +12v when ignition is on.
2. The reluctor or pickup coil needs to be working. IIRC, you can check it with a meter on voltage scale, pretty low settings, and crank engine (or some other way to spin the rotor). It should go up and down, might work on AC scale better. Same purpose as the points have on the older engines.

You need fuel, spark and spark at right time. IIRC you can physically remove the ECM and it will run.

Ok. Check this out. The car is getting spark, fuel, and compression. So why won't it start? Probably doue to the fact that the gas in the car is watered down after sitting in the tank for over a year. So I'm thinking drain the gas out, adding octane booster in the tank with some fresh 93 octane. What do you think?

N0DIH
10-04-08, 02:25 PM
I have had gas sit for 2-3 years and do fine. Unless it gets contaminated with water, it should be fine.

Try this, be very careful, but run it on carb cleaner to start. Gumout is wonderful stuff.

Also, timing, if too far off will be a bear to start, if impossible. Bump over to TDC, (compression stroke on #1) pull cap and verify rotor is pointing directly AT #1. It should be IIRC 10 degrees off (base timing). If pointing somewhere else, that is your issue. I wouldn't mess with the fuel just yet unless you suspect contaminated.

Pull the plugs and verify they are not wet enough they won't start. Flooded engines won't start well either. WOT and cranking is clear flood mode (yes even on a Q-Jet!) but it will start once it can, so be careful not to overrev it once it starts.

Is spark hot? Nice and blue, not yellow and weak?

MadCaddie69
10-28-08, 11:41 AM
I have had gas sit for 2-3 years and do fine. Unless it gets contaminated with water, it should be fine.

Try this, be very careful, but run it on carb cleaner to start. Gumout is wonderful stuff.

Also, timing, if too far off will be a bear to start, if impossible. Bump over to TDC, (compression stroke on #1) pull cap and verify rotor is pointing directly AT #1. It should be IIRC 10 degrees off (base timing). If pointing somewhere else, that is your issue. I wouldn't mess with the fuel just yet unless you suspect contaminated.

Pull the plugs and verify they are not wet enough they won't start. Flooded engines won't start well either. WOT and cranking is clear flood mode (yes even on a Q-Jet!) but it will start once it can, so be careful not to overrev it once it starts.

Is spark hot? Nice and blue, not yellow and weak?

It's the carburetor. It's clogged up.