:hmm: I'm the guy looking for a 472 short block because of a spun bearing in my 13,000 mile rebuild.

I have found a company on line, Rock Auto, which will supply me with any big block Caddy long block I want for a decent price. Now my question is since I already have a basically new 472 with an edelbrock intake and 500 exhaust manifolds, which long block engine should I purchase. Considering the cost of fuel I feel it should be a low compression one that uses regular gas. Other than the intake and exhaust manifolds, I'll probably put an RV cam in the new long block before I install it. Probably one from Comp cam or Edelbrock.

I have a friend in the gas business who told me to try and stay away from 92 octane. He says most of it is stale because almost no is purchasing 92 octane at the present price.

This motor will be installed in a '46 Caddy model 61 coupe and is used for traveling to street rod events across the country. I call it my long distance cruiser. It is equipped with a stock Caddy turbo 400 and a 9 inch Ford rear with 2:76 gears. Almost all of the present 13,000 miles on the 472 which was in the car is highway mileage.

Using the experience of the forum, what do you feel is my best choice. Remember, I'm not interested in performance other than be able to drive between 65 and 75 MPH on the highway and pass a tractor trailer or two.

Did you spin a rod bearing or a main? Regardless, it sounds like someone didn't check their clearances.
Whoever is giving you info on gas should reconsider his statement. There are several newer cars that run on the high octane fuel. Most cars with a turbo have to have higher octane. Most stations only have 2 tanks and the 89 octane is a blend of the two.
I'd go with the 472 short block. If you want to lower your compression, get a set of 500 heads. If you want to go with the 472 heads, you'll need a set of recessed pistons, which will cost you almost as much as the 500 heads.

My opinion for your engine.

1971-72 500. It will run opn regular gas, give plenty of power and tuned right can be fairly economical to run.

The stock 71-73 cam is of a fairly aggressive grind to begin with.

The only differances between the 472 and 500 in these years is the crank and pistons. The blocks are the same, as are the heads, exhaust manifolds (which are also very efficient) and intake manifolds.

The 71-73 engines use dished pistons with smaller combustion chambers to yeild an 8.5:1 compression ratio. 1973 went with EGR and much reduced power outputs. But that won't matter for your short block.

Mike

I might be crazy, but I found a 76 Deville with a 500 with only 31,000 miles on it. It has set outside with not much use the past ten years. The exterior was pretty shot, but the interior other than the dash is almost perfect. It started right up and seems to run perfect. It was still licensed and I drove it home. The gentleman who owned it recently passed away and his family sold it to me to settle the estate. Besides using my Edelbrock intake, any other changes I should make to make the 500 run more efficient in my 46. How about a mild cam. As I mentioned before, I want a cruiser not a hot rod.:cookoo:

I wouldn't worry about the compression much. I just put 17 gallons of 94 octane into my '70 at 4.35/gallon to the tune of $74. Going all the way down to 87 octane would have saved a whopping five bucks ($4.05/g). I suppose it depends on your personal budget, but with regular over $4, the extra cost for the higher octane really isn't that much, percentage-wise. The way I see it, high octane gas is more affordable than ever! Plus, higher octane gives more power, better throttle response and better efficiency, everything else being equal. Plus, I just love being to surprise people that my car came with a high compression BIG block - stock.

If it was me all I would do is get a CLOYES Part # 3139 timing gear and chain and change the plastic one that most likely is cracked with parts broke off... they were made with plastic over the teeth on the cam gear to run quiet... you will find pieces in your oil pan stuck to the oil pick-up...clean that up... the cloyes cam gear has 3 keys... -4 degrees, straight up and + 4 degrees... if you are running the stock cam it would be best to set it up on the + 4 degree ket slot...cloyes makes a cheaper set-up, I will only use the best one... If you going to take the intake off.. if thats off , take the rockerarms off and change the valve stem oil seals... by now those thing are gone.. I'll bet none are still in one piece.. that should do it...today all over the road motor oil has reduced or no additives that are needed for a flat tappet cam.. so get a additive or use VR1 oil.. thats Valvoline racing oil... can be got at NAPA... I like 20-50...