Just happened once so far. The electronic trunk puller thing that normally pulls the trunk closed did not rise like it normally does. Then, after I pressed the switch a few times, it worked normally. Would I be able to close the trunk without that electronic puller working? If so, would i just slam the trunk down? thanks

Closing the trunk provides ground to the motor when the "up" limit switch is closed, i.e. after you open the trunk, and it reaches the top of its travel. Having had problems with those units in the past, I've disabled mine by simply:
Removing the plastic covering (4 plastic thread-on fasteners in my case) and pulling the wire harness up, then touching a screwdriver to the outside of the striker and the body. (I found this out by accident!) There might be a spark, too, so move the blade quickly. The unit should cycle down, then up. If you push the "down" switch when it gets to the bottom of its travel, it will stop until you let go. It's best to touch the screwdriver to the outside edge of the striker, which will allow it to move against the screwdriver blade. Once the motor starts to run, you needn't hold the blade in place. It should go all the way down, then come back up in one cycle.
The trick is to watch it the first few times, noting the position of the limit switches. This will give you an idea of how to time it...then, push the "down" swtich, and disconnect the trunk motor wiring harness while the striker has reached the bottom of its travel.
You might also have to let the "up" switch engage, then pull the harness (quickly) just as it's on its way back up. This will save you having to slam the trunk every time. Though you'll still have to exert a bit of force, it's worth mentioning that the whole assembly is made of plastic, so letting the striker come back up a bit is also a way to keep from cracking the plastic base. Too far and the trunk's water seal will be compromised (you can tell by "sighting" the lines between the fender and the trunk lid.) If that happens, you'll have to shell out for a new motor assembly, without which you'll have to tie the trunk closed...and they ain't cheap.
You can now simply leave the harness disconnected.
...Pulling the "trunk" fuse also disables the trunk release, so this method is a bit of a compromise.
You can also:
Disconnect the (-) terminal from the battery, then open the trunk, remove the plastic cover as described, and simply pull the harness. Test-close the trunk lid first, though; if it closes OK for you after that, you're done...
These units all seem to fail eventually, so disabling it while it's still working might be benefical.
If you want it to keep working, without disabling it, try spraying some contact cleaner into the switches. If you disable it, closing the trunk with at least one hand on the centerline using a pushing motion (i.e., push down gently after the trunk closes for a second) should keep you from ever having to worry about it. If you ever sell the car, you can just re-connect it and it will still be working for the next owner.
If the motor burns out, (had it happen!) there's also a way to set the striker plate by hand...

thank you for the very detailed response. I will keep it handy when the puller goes!! Now, all I have to do is fix my window that wont go up!!:banghead: