: '08 EXT Motor Oil



jason1214
04-29-08, 02:26 AM
I was wondering if it would be ok to use a 10W-30W motor oil that is NOT a synthetic in this vehicle. It says in the manual to use GM approved GM4718M only in the engine ?

Any thoughts as it says the warranty would be voided if a non synthetic motor oil is used.

hcvone
04-29-08, 07:21 AM
I believe that all 08' Caddies come with Mobil 1, why would you want to put anything less in terms of quality in your 60k truck when you can get Mobil 1 dirt cheap at places like Walmart. Could your warranty be voided for not using Mobil 1, probably yes, but I don't think that would ever happen. I don't use Mobil 1, but if I was not connected with Amsoil I probably would use it.

TSS
04-29-08, 11:37 AM
I was wondering if it would be ok to use a 10W-30W motor oil that is NOT a synthetic in this vehicle. It says in the manual to use GM approved GM4718M only in the engine ?

Any thoughts as it says the warranty would be voided if a non synthetic motor oil is used.

The 07s did not come with synthetic from the factory and no engine changes occurred 07 to 08, so yes it would be ok. But, it would be a resaon to perhaps have a warrantee claim denied, though I seriously doubt it. As Carl indicated, why not just go with Mobil1 or another synthetic. I changed mine out ASAP in my 07 to Mobil1. The price difference is minimized by less frequent oil changes.

GM-4-LIFE
04-29-08, 12:35 PM
With gas prices the way they are, I am going to switch from Mobil 1 5w30 to Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30. I suggest going to a thinner viscosity rather than going thicker. Thicker motor oils don't flow as well during cold starts and the thicker the oil, the more fuel your engine will consume.

Mobil 1 0w30 advanced fuel economy meets the GM4718M designation and is available in the 5 quart jugs at Wal-Mart CHEAP! With crude oil going up everyday, conventional oil will soon be almost as expensive as the synthetic Mobil 1. After seeing the "green" label on the 0w30 Mobil 1 and reading that it meets GM4718M standards, I am making the switch on my next oil change. Anything will help in our gas guzzling 6.2L engines!

I agree with what hcvone states. Why take a chance in your $60K vehicle? If GM can void your warranty and get away with it, they will. Trust me on that one. I was a victim of that and I didn't do anything wrong. You have to fight them in court and who wants to pay for a big long drawn out legal battle with GM?

Stick with Mobil 1. It is factory fill on the 2008 and up Escalade. Stick with the 5w30 or go with the 0w30.

Here is the link announcing that all 2008 and up Cadillacs will be factory filled with Mobil 1:

http://www.businesswire.com/portal/site/exxonmobil/index.jsp?epi-content=GENERIC&newsId=20070207006229&ndmHsc=v2*A1104584400000*B1170977883000*C410249159 9000*DgroupByDate*J2*N1001106&newsLang=en&beanID=2030803304&viewID=news_view

Here is the link on Mobil's website listing all the vehicles that are factory filled with Mobil 1 including all 2008 and up Cadillacs:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Synthetics/Manufacturers_Choice.aspx

Hope this helps!

SG

hcvone
04-29-08, 01:49 PM
I run Amsoil 0-30 in all my cars, even the Euro cars and have for about 5 years now. :)

scroitoru
04-29-08, 02:29 PM
is the 0w 30 going to be a real difference in mpgs?!

medlines
04-29-08, 02:55 PM
you know this is my second oil change and I use Mobile 1 oil and filter. and I have merely 9000 miles on the Truck.
I change the oil as soon as the DIC says so.
So am I doing wrong or no ?

GM-4-LIFE
04-29-08, 03:33 PM
hcvone,

You are a smart man! 0w30 is a very good viscosity to run, especially in GM vehicles.

scroitoru,

It can't hurt! If anything, it will help the engine on cold start-ups on those cold mornings which will protect the critical engine parts that thicker oils take longer to flow to. The additional MPG will just be an added benefit.

medlines,

You are doing exactly what you are supposed to be doing. Keep it up!

SG

hcvone
04-29-08, 04:58 PM
I am in some cold areas in upstate NY, so the 0-30 can only help there too. :)

DaveH28
04-29-08, 09:32 PM
If the factory calls for synthetic, use synthetic -- that's the bottom line. If it says it right in the owner's manual, it can't get much clearer than that!

I don't know why GM didn't run synthetic oil in the 07s.. Yes it's the same 6.2 engine both years.. and yes every other Caddy (except the DTS, which now also does and also has no engine differences) came with Synthetic from the factory from 2004+, so I don't know what took them so long to put the syn oil in..

GM did a similar deal with the LT1s and LS1s from the Vettes/Camaros, etc.. If you bought a vette or an SS/WS6 you got the synthetic oil, but a Z28 with the same displacement engine got regular oil.. yes I know the others had more power but the internals were pretty much the same.. it was basically the same engine.. They should have all had synthetic..

These new trucks are no different.. they are high horsepower, high compression, large displacement V8s.. you should do everything you can to protect your investment.. Especially with GM telling you via the oil life system that you can run almost 10k miles between oil changes.. On regular oil that is ridiculous.. on synthetic, it's "acceptable" -- I run the mobil 1 and don't go more than 5k.. It's cheap insurance..

Sorry for the rant!

GM-4-LIFE
04-29-08, 11:45 PM
If the factory calls for synthetic, use synthetic -- that's the bottom line. If it says it right in the owner's manual, it can't get much clearer than that!

I don't know why GM didn't run synthetic oil in the 07s.. Yes it's the same 6.2 engine both years.. and yes every other Caddy (except the DTS, which now also does and also has no engine differences) came with Synthetic from the factory from 2004+, so I don't know what took them so long to put the syn oil in..

GM did a similar deal with the LT1s and LS1s from the Vettes/Camaros, etc.. If you bought a vette or an SS/WS6 you got the synthetic oil, but a Z28 with the same displacement engine got regular oil.. yes I know the others had more power but the internals were pretty much the same.. it was basically the same engine.. They should have all had synthetic..

These new trucks are no different.. they are high horsepower, high compression, large displacement V8s.. you should do everything you can to protect your investment.. Especially with GM telling you via the oil life system that you can run almost 10k miles between oil changes.. On regular oil that is ridiculous.. on synthetic, it's "acceptable" -- I run the mobil 1 and don't go more than 5k.. It's cheap insurance..

Sorry for the rant!

I agree with you 100%! I switched my 2007 Escalade over to Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 oil filter on it's first oil change and that allowed me to go a long time/miles between oil changes. My last interval was almost 13,000 miles!

If the vehicle was factory filled with synthetic oil, run synthetic oil. If your vehicle came factory filled with conventional oil and you value your engine and look at it as a long term investment, I would strongly recommend switching to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1. It can only help!

SG

SG

scroitoru
04-30-08, 09:51 AM
regarding the 0W and 10W. while it helps to have the 0W in cold climates, or seasons, it is not so good for the engine in hot climates or seasons. the fluidity matters, so it's good to be less viscous in cold, but it's better to be more viscous in hot temperatures. so it's al relative.
and this is why, I believe, GM came with the middle formula 5W 30, which i sgood for both, but not the best.
so if one wants, they could use 0W in winter, and switch to 10 W or higher in summer.
But at no cost, and at no point one should use NON-SYNTHETIC. Use ONLY synth. No questions about this...And buy the oil and filter it yourself as the dealer adds like 100% markup from a retail price ?!?!?!!?

TSS
04-30-08, 10:48 AM
so it's al relative.
and this is why, I believe, GM came with the middle formula 5W 30, which i sgood for both, but not the best.


That makes sense, :yup:

GM-4-LIFE
04-30-08, 11:19 AM
regarding the 0W and 10W. while it helps to have the 0W in cold climates, or seasons, it is not so good for the engine in hot climates or seasons. the fluidity matters, so it's good to be less viscous in cold, but it's better to be more viscous in hot temperatures. so it's al relative.
and this is why, I believe, GM came with the middle formula 5W 30, which i sgood for both, but not the best.
so if one wants, they could use 0W in winter, and switch to 10 W or higher in summer.
But at no cost, and at no point one should use NON-SYNTHETIC. Use ONLY synth. No questions about this...And buy the oil and filter it yourself as the dealer adds like 100% markup from a retail price ?!?!?!!?

After reading all the documentation on Mobil 1, the protection is exactly the same in cold weather and hot weather. It doesn't matter if it is winter or summer as Mobil 1 protects in the coldest of weathers and the hottest of weathers found around the world. If you run 0w30 or 20w50 Mobil 1, the protection is exactly the same. Mobil 1 doesn't breakdown like conventional oil does. If you are talking about conventional oil, I would agree with your statement, but in regards to running synthetic oil, it doesn't matter what viscosity you run. You can run Mobil 1 0w30 all year long and it protects your engine exactly the same as Mobil 1 5w30, 10w30 and 20w50. With gas prices going sky high, I will be sticking to Mobil 1 0w30 from my next oil change on. If you look at the product data sheets on Mobil 1 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, they all have the same protection data at extreme low temperatures and at extreme high temperatures. The only difference with running the 0w30 is better protection on cold starts and having the added benefit of conserving fuel due to the low friction found in a thinner oil like 0w30.

SG

hcvone
04-30-08, 12:36 PM
As said the 0-30 I use (Amsoil signature series) gives greater protection than standard 20-50 motor oil, and better protection than any synthetic 10-30. I had a problem when the 0-30 came out, the zero number scares people, it did me too, then I saw it tested in front of me, and have been a believer ever since then. :)

GM-4-LIFE
04-30-08, 12:44 PM
As said the 0-30 I use (Amsoil signature series) gives greater protection than standard 20-50 motor oil, and better protection than any synthetic 10-30. I had a problem when the 0-30 came out, the zero number scares people, it did me too, then I saw it tested in front of me, and have been a believer ever since then. :)

hcvone,

When the 0w30 was initially released, it scared me a bit too. I thought it would be too thin to run, but after seeing the product data sheets for all grades of synthetic oils, it was clear that the 0w30 synthetic offers the best protection no matter what the weather combined with the best in low friction and the best in fuel economy.

SG

C66 Racing
05-03-08, 02:28 PM
regarding the 0W and 10W. while it helps to have the 0W in cold climates, or seasons, it is not so good for the engine in hot climates or seasons. the fluidity matters, so it's good to be less viscous in cold, but it's better to be more viscous in hot temperatures. so it's al relative.
and this is why, I believe, GM came with the middle formula 5W 30, which i sgood for both, but not the best.


This is a little over simplified. To really determine which oil is more or less viscous, you must go to the product data sheet for the actual oil in question. The reason is that these specifications are ranges, not specific viscosities. For example, a 30 grade oil (whether 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30) must have a cSt viscosity in the range of 9.30 to 12.49 at 100C (212F).

The first number in a multi-viscosity oil's grade is a measure of it's viscosity at 40C (100F). Note that this is actually pretty warm. Though the first number is smaller (0, 5 or 10 vs 30), the viscosity of the oil is actually much higher at 100F than it is at 212F. This leads to the perception that 0w30 is "thinner" than 5w30 or 10w30 which isn't necessarily true. At 100C (212F), a 0w30, 5w30 and 10w30 all must have a viscosity in the range of 9.30-12.49. A 0w30 could actually be blended to have a higher or lower viscosity than a 5w30 or 10w30 at 212F.

To demonstrate the differences, according to Mobil 1's website the viscosity of their 5w30 is 64.8 at 40C and 11.3 at 100C (note the drop in viscosity by a factor of about 6 as the oil heats up from 40C to 100C). Their 0w30 comes in at 63.1 and 11.0 respectively. Note that both are in middle of the 30 grade range when at normal operating temp, but that the 0w30 does in fact have a slightly lower viscosity at both 40C and 100C than does their 5w30. Now to really confuse things... Mobil 1 lists the viscosity of their 10w30 as 62.0 and 10.0 respectively. Again, this shows that it is in the 30 grade band at 212F, but near the bottom, and interestingly, lower than that of both their 0w30 and 5w30. Go figure.

There really isn't that much difference between a 0w30 and a 5w30 other than a 0w30 will usually have a much lower pour point. For example, the AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 Carl uses has a pour point of -60F. Mobil 1 5w30 has a pour point of -48F. For those in really cold climates, this should help minimize wear while the oil is cold.
:cheers:

hcvone
05-05-08, 08:31 AM
This is a little over simplified. To really determine which oil is more or less viscous, you must go to the product data sheet for the actual oil in question. The reason is that these specifications are ranges, not specific viscosities. For example, a 30 grade oil (whether 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30) must have a cSt viscosity in the range of 9.30 to 12.49 at 100C (212F).

The first number in a multi-viscosity oil's grade is a measure of it's viscosity at 40C (100F). Note that this is actually pretty warm. Though the first number is smaller (0, 5 or 10 vs 30), the viscosity of the oil is actually much higher at 100F than it is at 212F. This leads to the perception that 0w30 is "thinner" than 5w30 or 10w30 which isn't necessarily true. At 100C (212F), a 0w30, 5w30 and 10w30 all must have a viscosity in the range of 9.30-12.49. A 0w30 could actually be blended to have a higher or lower viscosity than a 5w30 or 10w30 at 212F.

To demonstrate the differences, according to Mobil 1's website the viscosity of their 5w30 is 64.8 at 40C and 11.3 at 100C (note the drop in viscosity by a factor of about 6 as the oil heats up from 40C to 100C). Their 0w30 comes in at 63.1 and 11.0 respectively. Note that both are in middle of the 30 grade range when at normal operating temp, but that the 0w30 does in fact have a slightly lower viscosity at both 40C and 100C than does their 5w30. Now to really confuse things... Mobil 1 lists the viscosity of their 10w30 as 62.0 and 10.0 respectively. Again, this shows that it is in the 30 grade band at 212F, but near the bottom, and interestingly, lower than that of both their 0w30 and 5w30. Go figure.

There really isn't that much difference between a 0w30 and a 5w30 other than a 0w30 will usually have a much lower pour point. For example, the AMSOIL Signature Series 0w30 Carl uses has a pour point of -60F. Mobil 1 5w30 has a pour point of -48F. For those in really cold climates, this should help minimize wear while the oil is cold.
:cheers:

I have seen 47 below (NY state record) , it didn't matter nothing was starting up that day. ;)

C66 Racing
05-06-08, 01:03 AM
I have seen 47 below (NY state record) , it didn't matter nothing was starting up that day. ;)


Man that is cold. I drove through Montana last winter and saw -17F and that was bad enough. I'm more a fan of the warmer climates myself. :lol:

hcvone
05-06-08, 07:44 AM
Man that is cold. I drove through Montana last winter and saw -17F and that was bad enough. I'm more a fan of the warmer climates myself. :lol:

I really like the cold, but much under 20 below is just too cold. ;)