: KARS 3 Install Question



rand49er
04-28-08, 05:12 PM
Finally got my KARS Stage 3 kit on yesterday. Had to elongate two of the holes to get it to match up with my car, but small potatoes for any Mod Hell enthusiasts. :bonkers:

Question is, for the two bolts with a pair of bushings on each on the differential support, the very last step says, "... tighten only enough to just begin to lower the front of the differential, what you are looking for here is to remove any looseness in the attaching bolts/nuts/bushing combo, without drawing the D.S. too low."

Heck, I can't tell! Does this look right? Are the two nylon insert nuts too tight?

Twitch
04-28-08, 06:07 PM
WOW you got that car way up. :bonkers:
Don't know anything about the KARS III, so I can't help you there.
I will, however, help myself :lildevil:
I was wondering if the specter bushings fit with the KARS spacers. If not,,,,and you removed them,,,,and need to unload them,,,,,:rolleyes:

But really, you need to go n do some burnouts n give us some feedback.

10 days and counting :bouncy:

ahahnu
04-28-08, 06:38 PM
Looks good. One time they installedit with thebushings between the two pieces. I think Doug's intention was for you to tighten it so it wouldn't move it. Just enough to where it normally rests.

rand49er
04-28-08, 07:13 PM
... I was wondering if the specter bushings fit with the KARS spacers. If not,,,,and you removed them,,,,and need to unload them,,,,,:rolleyes: ...Well, to be honest, I didn't install the KARS spacers ... I just left the Specter Werkes spacers in. They seem pretty solid, so I'll try it like this at least for now.

Burn outs? One of these days, maybe ... but if I grenade my diff, my wife will grenade my "boys" if you know what I mean. :(




Looks good. One time they installedit with thebushings between the two pieces. I think Doug's intention was for you to tighten it so it wouldn't move it. Just enough to where it normally rests.Yeah, but as I tighten it, I can't tell if I'm moving (i.e. tilting) the diff at all. I'd buy a beer to see anyone else's setup. :alchi: Post up a pic, and I'll post up a beer.

JonCR96Z
04-28-08, 07:52 PM
I tightened mine til there was no more slack then I went just a little further trying to get both sides even. Months later I went back and retorqued everything and in the process I crank a few more rounds on the pinion support (never hurts to have a little negative pinion angle). I didn't notice any difference either way.

rand49er
04-28-08, 08:07 PM
I tightened mine til there was no more slack then I went just a little further trying to get both sides even. Months later I went back and retorqued everything and in the process I crank a few more rounds on the pinion support (never hurts to have a little negative pinion angle). I didn't notice any difference either way.How far apart are those steel flanges on yours? Seems like I'll run out of threads before they'd touch.

JonCR96Z
04-28-08, 08:45 PM
Can't really say for sure, took the KARS off when I split the diff. Haven't put it back on, yet. Off memory they were probably 1/2"-3/4". I went pretty far when I retightened them, because I still had considerable wheel hop.

rand49er
04-28-08, 08:55 PM
Mine's gotta be at least an inch, maybe more, apart ... didn't think to measure, though. :banghead:

BTW, did you have the same hole alignment issue that I did with the far driver's side flange-to-frame attachment? Both holes were shifted to the rear too far by about an 1/8". A rat-tail file and 45 minutes of filing was all it took.

JonCR96Z
04-28-08, 09:21 PM
You're talking about the part that gets welded to the frame? Mine didn't have any holes in them. I estimated where they went had them welded, then drilled holes and used the included self tappers.

rand49er
04-28-08, 09:48 PM
You're talking about the part that gets welded to the frame? Mine didn't have any holes in them. I estimated where they went had them welded, then drilled holes and used the included self tappers.Yeah.

This pic is the passenger side, but there were already two holes in the frame with welded nuts behind. All I had to do was place the steel piece in position, mark where the holes were needed, and drill them. I haven't had them welded yet.

JonCR96Z
04-28-08, 10:52 PM
So you're saying that there are holes in the frame in the area behind where that plate is on the drivers side? Mine didn't have any holes there. Seems like I remember Doug saying that there was a difference between the years. Maybe that is the difference.

Jon

StealthV
04-28-08, 11:42 PM
Photo from about two years ago...

rand49er
04-29-08, 05:41 AM
So you're saying that there are holes in the frame in the area behind where that plate is on the drivers side? Mine didn't have any holes there. Seems like I remember Doug saying that there was a difference between the years. Maybe that is the difference.

JonDo you have an '04? I believe there are no holes in the '04s, and there are holes in the '05s ... at least that's what I recall someone saying.




Photo from about two years ago...That's a good view of it.

Rick, yours looks (looked ... RIP :crying:) to be a little bit less drawn together than mine. Hmm-m ... that's what I was worried about. Mine might be too tight.


(Nice to have a big archive of photos, isn't it?)


Thanks, guys. :thumbsup:

ewill3rd
04-29-08, 08:17 AM
The self tappers are made to go into the holes you drill into the subframe.
How many self tapping bolts did your kit come with?
Those plates need to be welded for proper support.
The issue is that the sheet metal there will start to fold if you don't spread the load out.
You don't really change the pinion angle by tightening the two bolts on the support, it really just firms up or loosens the "grip" the crossbar has on the pinion area so it doesn't torque up as badly when you get into it.
There is no real right or wrong on those two bolts, you put them where you want. I put them pretty snug on Trukk's car.

rand49er
04-29-08, 11:24 AM
The self tappers are made to go into the holes you drill into the subframe.
How many self tapping bolts did your kit come with?
Those plates need to be welded for proper support.
The issue is that the sheet metal there will start to fold if you don't spread the load out.
You don't really change the pinion angle by tightening the two bolts on the support, it really just firms up or loosens the "grip" the crossbar has on the pinion area so it doesn't torque up as badly when you get into it.
There is no real right or wrong on those two bolts, you put them where you want. I put them pretty snug on Trukk's car.I got one self tapper with my kit. I used it to create the threads for the other screws.

Hmm-m ... welding ... on my virgin V ... okay, if I have to. What if I don't get it done before Summit Point? Have to see who could do it between now and then.

ewill3rd
04-29-08, 09:22 PM
I don't think it will do any real damage, but I think the intent of the plates was to add strength.
While they do that just by being there, I think they do it better welded.
;)

rand49er
04-29-08, 09:44 PM
I don't think it will do any real damage, but I think the intent of the plates was to add strength.
While they do that just by being there, I think they do it better welded.
;)Gotcha. Thanks, Bill. :thumbsup:

BTW, drove around a bit in the V with the family today. My attempts to discern whether or not I'm experiencing increased drivetrain noise, road harshness, or whatever was absolutely dismal as my sensitivity to this sort of thing seems to be non-existent. However, in my mind, the car is becoming a beast. At least IT will be ready for Summit Point. :D

Twitch
04-30-08, 09:27 AM
Gotcha. Thanks, Bill. :thumbsup:

BTW, drove around a bit in the V with the family today. My attempts to discern whether or not I'm experiencing increased drivetrain noise, road harshness, or whatever was absolutely dismal as my sensitivity to this sort of thing seems to be non-existent. However, in my mind, the car is becoming a beast. At least IT will be ready for Summit Point. :D

If your not ready, I can take that maggied beast out for a few hot laps :rolleyes: