Any thoughts on this one?

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp;?tracktype=usedcc&searchType=22&pageNumber=0&numResultsPerPage=250&largeNumResultsPerPage=0&sortorder=descending&sortfield=PRICE+descending&certifiedOnly=false&criteria=K-%7cE-ANY%7cM-_8_%7cH-%7cD-_69_%7cN-N%7cR-75%7cI-1%7cP-PRICE+descending%7cQ-descending%7cY-_2004-2003-2002_%7cX-popular%7cZ-61109&aff=national&paId=270539390&recnum=219&leadExists=true

Good? Bad? Warning signs?

Things to look for that are "must haves"?

Check out the suspension thoroughly. The struts are $$

Make sure the 100K service was done, that is $$

Check for coolant smell. The waterpump replacement is not a walk in the park on that motor.

My brother got 120K out of his last DTS before he decided to stop sinking money into it. Mainly the suspension work and crank shaft position sensors were what cost him the most.

The only thing I'd say you shouldn't get in an older car (one over 5 years old) is the moonroof. It's a useless option that causes very expensive problems. Also, that's kinda high mileage for an '02. (Most sources state "average" mileage as 12,000-15,000 per year.) Not that high mileage is a bad thing, but that the mostly "trouble-free" period is long gone. Big repairs aside, it could still dollar you to death with little things that pop up after 5-6 years (belts, hoses, gaskets, battery, rotors, alternator, water pump, etc..) Caddies are nice cars, but can be expensive to maintain.

I am always Leary of buying a high mileage car from a non dealer used car lot. It most certainly came through the auction. That may or may not be a bad thing, but I'd check it out real closely. Just my suspicious nature.

Maintenance/repairs are a reason I am seriously trying to weight it out, as I don't wanna get into a maint headache car that I need to depend on for another 100-150K, or more....

My FW needs front suspension rebuild (Ball Joints, and arm bushings, the rest is newer except the damper), tires (I DO wanna go Impala SS wheels....) rust fixing (unk $?), get my 3.42's back in there with the FW axle and my posi diff, exhaust, engine back if I can pull it (headers and 2.5" pipe with some Walker Dynomax 17749's), Maybe a HD2 TransGo Kit, and some other smaller things.

The biggest goal more than any is higher mpg, which is why I almost might go with the 3800 SC Ultra over the Cad (but the Cad's do have good prices, $/goodies... but if they are a headache, not worth it...) And the 3800's are a tough engine for longevity. And this one seems pretty well taken care of and garaged its whole life.

http://miami.en.craigslist.org/car/654310604.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MINT-CONDITION-BEAUTY-75K-MILES-GREAT-DRIVER-MUST-SEE_W0QQitemZ330229403373QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6149QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosti ng

;)


Do the late model Park Avenues have electronic struts as well or is it similar to the Grand Prix/Bonneville? That PAU you were talking about sounds nice.

Goodluck!
-Elias :thumbsup:

Yup, it says it has the electronic struts. The PA/LeSabre are on the Seville/Deville 1994-up "K" chassis. So they share all those cars have, as do the Aurora/Bonneville. The chassis was first on Cadillac in the 1994 Devilles, and in 1998 Buick picked it up and in 2000 Pontiac picked it up.

Autozone lists only the non-electronic for $75 each. Unless they are electronic. It didn't bouncy ride, it seemed fine, but seemed almost twitchy in the steering. Wasn't sure it was just weak bars. They might have been find. It is probably more kin to the soft "dynaride" Buick owners seem to like. I guess I can opt for Bonneville SSEI springs to beef things up a bit. Rear springs are pretty each to change, front, not too bad, but need to get some air tools to get the strut apart as well as a spring compressor.

Keep in mind that the S/C 3800's require premium. Naturally aspirated 3800's don't.

Keep in mind that the S/C 3800's require premium. Naturally aspirated 3800's don't.

I mentioned that to him. The normally aspirated 3800s make relatively good gas mileage, but the S/C loses a few mpg in the city and highway.

I can also tune the 3800 and remove that requirement... I can also make it run on E85 (if the fuel system supports it). Which is $2.699 a gallon and 105 octane, which a boosted 3800 would go bonkers over...

Get me some 45-60 lb injectors (have to do the math) and run it on the alky....

If I get a Deville, i will do the same to it for sure.... Just need to find injectors that work in there that are fat....

I can also tune the 3800 and remove that requirement... I can also make it run on E85 (if the fuel system supports it). Which is $2.699 a gallon and 105 octane, which a boosted 3800 would go bonkers over...

Get me some 45-60 lb injectors (have to do the math) and run it on the alky....

If I get a Deville, i will do the same to it for sure.... Just need to find injectors that work in there that are fat....

I knew you lost a few MPG running your FWB on E85, Did you ever get it tuned to make it get the same gas mileage as regular unleaded?

Unfortunately we dont have any E85 here else i might consider trying to set mine up.

No, but I got within 2-3 pretty consistently. My average is 18.5 to 19.5 for ALL tanks of gas sans the sub zero months, else they all seem to end up in there. And E85 I am at the 15.3 to 17.7 for ALL tanks of E85. So really, I am not doing too badly. And note that my FW is stone stock with LS6 injectors (which flow identical to stock, they are there because I was told they were larger, the are not, so I didn't wanna go in and remove them....) They will probably end up in my 454 Suburban soon enough.... :)