Can someone share with me the location of the stock Bose audio amplifier in the 08 CTS with NAV?

For bonus points - I'm planning to add an aftermarket subwoofer/amp combo to replace the stock Bose 10" sub and would like to know if the stock headunit sends separate analog signals for each channel to the amp (that I could tap into) or am I forced to use a Line Output Converter post-Bose amp instead? If the amp does have analog inputs, does anyone know the color code of the subwoofer channel + and - wires?

Thanks for your help!

I forgot where it was located. I had the stock system w/o NAV, but at first they made me get a line converter, but it turned out that that was the cause of the distortion I was hearing because that device was defective. But, I found out that for my amp I didn't need a line converter, because my amp had a "high input" switch on it which could take up to 9 Volts. The only thing you might consider however is an equalizer because these stock head units are NOT the best thing in the world and have some serious dips & peaks in different ranges. But most of these things are not noticeable to 99.9% of consumers.

I'm thinking about adding an amp and was just about to order a LOC in order to hook up a sub, is there any other information anyone can provide here or another thread that addressed the aftermarket issues? please let me know, thanks.

dom

You DO NOT want to use a Line Output Converter off of the Bose amp. If you grab the subwoofer output from there, you will be disappointed with the results.

I have been doing my research on this one.

The best solution is an Alpine Imprint PXE-H650 ($399). Removes all factory processing from the signal and re-equalizes automatically using a microphone, provides front, rear, and sub outputs. Very slick.

Second best, a JL Audio CL441dsp Cleansweep ($299)?. Purpose-built for "add-a-sub" applications. Also gives you additional outputs for front and rear. Not quite as impressed with this as the Alpine, but 100x better sound quality than a LOC.

NGiardina is correct about using the LOC post BOSE amp because at that point the signal is already mangled by the BOSE amp and DSP conversions.

However, the JL Audio, Alpine, or even the MTX Re-Q all expect to you to no longer use the BOSE Amp/DSP at all and run *only* all aftermarket amplifiers for all channels in your system (not just the Subwoofer in the rear deck). If you do this, you will most likely be required to replace all the BOSE speakers as well because they use atypical resistances (non 4-Ohm) which aftermarket amplifiers are not generally designed to deal with. I simply want to add a subwoofer to replace the existing Bose powered subwoofer but it does not meet my sonic expectations.

I am looking to find if the audio signals from the headunit are passed to the Bose AMP/DSP in analog form, and if so, what the location and color code of the wires passing those signals to the amp/dsp might be so that I can tap into them PRIOR to the Bose AMP mangling the signal to the subwoofer.

NGiardina is correct about using the LOC post BOSE amp because at that point the signal is already mangled by the BOSE amp and DSP conversions.

However, the JL Audio, Alpine, or even the MTX Re-Q all expect to you to no longer use the BOSE Amp/DSP at all and run *only* all aftermarket amplifiers for all channels in your system (not just the Subwoofer in the rear deck). If you do this, you will most likely be required to replace all the BOSE speakers as well because they use atypical resistances (non 4-Ohm) which aftermarket amplifiers are not generally designed to deal with. I simply want to add a subwoofer to replace the existing Bose powered subwoofer but it does not meet my sonic expectations.

I am looking to find if the audio signals from the headunit are passed to the Bose AMP/DSP in analog form, and if so, what the location and color code of the wires passing those signals to the amp/dsp might be so that I can tap into them PRIOR to the Bose AMP mangling the signal to the subwoofer.

You are correct about the nightmare of using Bose speakers with aftermarket amps, however, you are incorrect about the way the processors install. Just don't use the full capabilit of the unit, only use it for your subs. We have done this numerous times as the best solution for lackluster bass response while maintaining factory components.

I feel way off-topic anyway, sorry about that.

Answering my own question:

Bose Amp is located in the Driver's side trunk trim panel opposite the battery. It's bolted to the side of the trunk and has BOSE stamped in the metal housing. There are 4 separate harnesses connected: 1 is Input, other 3 are output.

The AMP wiring harness' output pinouts are as such:

PIN COLOR FUNCTION
1 Yellow LR Door
2 Light Grn RF Dash
3 Violet RF Dash
4 Yellow LF Dash
5 Black LF Dash
6 Tan RR Deck
7 Red RR Deck
8 Green ----
9 Brown LR Door
10 Blue RR Door
11 Light Blue RR Door
12 Yellow Center
13 Light Blue Center
14 Tan LR Deck
15 White LR Deck
16 --- ----
17 Red Constant 12V+
18 Green RF Door
19 Grey LF Door
20 Tan LF Door
21 Black Chassis Ground -
22 Light Green RF Door
23 Light Grn/Black Subwoofer
24 Blue/White Subwoofer

I do not know the input pins/colors as of yet.

Wow. Good work.