: How to install Nitrous the correct way! I need input



AJxtcman
04-21-08, 08:23 AM
We (Highline Cady and I) have been talking about a Nitrous kit for that DHS.

How do you go about doing that?

AJxtcman
04-21-08, 08:26 AM
This is the kit I think will look the best and fit the best.

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Images/1pcmafsystem.jpg

ATTENTION ALL 97-06 CORVETTE AND NEW GTO OWNERS! Check out the new trick NX MAF nitrous system for any single piece GM MAF vehicle. This includes 03' Camaro and Firebird and all 97' and up GM Pickups. The NX integrated solenoid nitrous system for the GM Single piece MAF is the state of the art in safe horsepower production. Compact, easy to install, machined from billet 6061 aluminum, integral lifetime warranty solenoids, complete plug and play wiring harness, TPAS module, and all necessary hardware for a complete installation. Fits all GM one piece MAF applications. 35-200 Horsepower

Installation Instructions (http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Instructions/1pcmaf.pdf)

*Factory Mass Air Meter not included


http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Images/NewProducts/1pcmaf.jpg

AJxtcman
04-21-08, 08:36 AM
Protection

http://www.zeitronix.com/order/Zt2kit150.jpg
Zt-2 Wideband Controller and Datalogging System
Cut your tuning time in half!
Includes the Zt-2 Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Meter, Wideband Oxygen Sensor, Sensor Harness, Signal Harness, PC Serial Cable, Datalogging Software, Installation Instructions and 2 pin EGT connector to retrofit your EGT probe. Made in the USA.

http://www.zeitronix.com/order/EGT130.jpg
Exhaust Gas Temperature Probe
Low mass, fast responsive EGT Probe.
You can use some other slow EGT probe but will it tell you the EGTs are raising before you melt the engine parts?
Includes 8' EGT probe extension harness to the Zt-2. 1/8 NPT thread.
Please note special K grade thermocouple extension wire is used. Made in the USA.


http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zavt/ZAVT300.jpg
ZAVT-1
Zeitronix Audio-Visual Warning and Trigger Box.

Loud 95dB audio buzzer with a bright red LED and a relay trigger signals the alarm.

APPLICATIONS


AFR too rich The alarm activates when too rich mixture is detected.

AFR too lean The alarm activates when too lean mixture is detected.

A combination of AFR too rich and AFR too lean alarms can be used to tune for a specific AFR window.

EGT too high The alarm activates when EGT exceeds a safe user selected level.

RPM too high Shift-light functionality with a bonus of audio alarm and a relay trigger.

TPS too high The alarm activates when TPS exceeds a selected level.

USER1 Input too high The alarm activated if a sensor connected to the USER1 input exceeds a selected level.

USER1 Input too low The alarm activated if a sensor connected to the USER1 input is lower than a selected level.

Relay trigger Open or close a relay circuit to activate or deactivate additional devices at a set warning level. Typically used to add a control to your boost setting, nitrous or alcohol injection and other devices capable of engine destruction.

stbtt
04-21-08, 09:47 AM
If you plan on going up any higher than 125 shot I would put a high volume fuel pump in. I have a dual 75 shots on mine, had good fuel till 5500-6000 then it would lean out. I quit using it till I take care of the fuel prob. I like the gas I have had it on almost all my vehicles even the forced inducted ones. I have the same setup that's on the cadi. that I had on my stock suburban. I had a dual setup on it that was running about 175 HP shot on both systems. It sure was fun seeing the faces on people in T/A, Vetts. that just got beat by a suburban.

eldorado1
04-21-08, 02:51 PM
If you want to do it right, you need a direct port setup. A dry system would be a second choice, but northstar injectors lock up when fuel pressure gets much more than 10psi above normal, so you would need aftermarket injectors if you went that route. A wet system should not be considered due to port reversion effects. You can get gas puddling in the intake, uneven fuel distribution, torched pistons.......... bad stuff.

Oh, get plugs 2 ranges colder than stock.

Highline Cady
04-22-08, 03:07 AM
Thanx for the input guys. It has become my goal to duck into the 13's sec 1/4 mile, and with AJ's help I think we'll get it done. I appreciate the lessons learned by those who have done this before and any information is greatly appreciated, don't want to melt pistons, we just put new ones in.

With all the research that we have been doing, I have a question about the plugs for anyone who may be able to answer. Some that I have discussed this setup with recommend using colder range plugs, but others have said not to. Anyone that can clear this up?

Thanks again
H

eldorado1
04-22-08, 11:21 AM
A stock northstar runs very hot plugs. This is to make sure your engine starts in Alaska, and burn off deposits after short drives. However, when you start adding power to the engine, the dynamics change and the spark plug runs hotter than they were designed to. If it is bad enough, the spark plug can start glowing and act like....... a glow plug. This means it can ignite the fuel mixture before the spark (preignition). This is NOT like detonation AT ALL. Detonation your PCM will pick up and retard timing (you might even hear it). Preignition you will NOT notice until all of a sudden your power drops and your car is blowing blue smoke. The blue smoke is from burning engine oil after you have holes in your pistons. Holy pistons are bad. Colder plugs are cheap engine insurance.

Highline Cady
04-22-08, 01:04 PM
Thanks, I understand. I was just curious why some would say you don't need to change out the plugs. You know if there was another theory out there that I never heard about. But thanks for the info Eldo 1, appreciated.

AJxtcman
04-22-08, 03:12 PM
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture016.jpg

stbtt
04-22-08, 03:14 PM
Don't forget to lower the gap on your plugs to around .032 - .035 you don't want to blow out the spark

eldorado1
04-22-08, 05:08 PM
Thanks, I understand. I was just curious why some would say you don't need to change out the plugs. You know if there was another theory out there that I never heard about. But thanks for the info Eldo 1, appreciated.


Because he, his friend, his mother, or someone else did it with stock plugs and theirs didn't blow up, so therefore no one needs colder plugs.

BTW, I'm running colder plugs with an otherwise stock engine.

Submariner409
04-22-08, 05:47 PM
What eldorado1 is saying is that a specific heat range in a spark plug is calculated for the majority of anticipated use of a given engine installation (?). When you begin fooling with engine power output it is very likely that the same plug heat range may not work as designed. If you spent a significant percentage of your time at highway speeds you could go to a colder heat range plug because the constant high rpm operation would allow the plug tip and insulator to heat up enough to keep the plug clean (the reason for heat range in the first place). A cold plug resists overheating at high rpm or high power fuel rates. A hot plug is good for low rpm and in-town operation because the thinner nose and insulator shell heats up rapidly and does not transfer as much heat from the plug to the cylinder head.

AJxtcman
04-22-08, 06:16 PM
What eldorado1 is saying is that a specific heat range in a spark plug is calculated for the majority of anticipated use of a given engine installation (?). When you begin fooling with engine power output it is very likely that the same plug heat range may not work as designed. If you spent a significant percentage of your time at highway speeds you could go to a colder heat range plug because the constant high rpm operation would allow the plug tip and insulator to heat up enough to keep the plug clean (the reason for heat range in the first place). A cold plug resists overheating at high rpm or high power fuel rates. A hot plug is good for low rpm and in-town operation because the thinner nose and insulator shell heats up rapidly and does not transfer as much heat from the plug to the cylinder head.


Because he, his friend, his mother, or someone else did it with stock plugs and theirs didn't blow up, so therefore no one needs colder plugs.

BTW, I'm running colder plugs with an otherwise stock engine.

SANT CLAUSE SAYS NO NEED TO CHANGE THE PLUGS!

If I am running 41-987 what is the next cooler plug? I am just asking

Remember we have protection so the plugs will be fine

Highline Cady
04-22-08, 06:58 PM
Thanks again guys, the couple that chimed in since last, we researched (the actual plugs not anything to do w/ Nitrous) today and it seems that things have changed since the last time I messed around with plugs, anyway I've learned that the research part of it is an ever changing and on going process. I appreciate all the info/opinions none-the-less. You can never have to much information.

eldorado1
04-22-08, 08:16 PM
SANT CLAUSE SAYS NO NEED TO CHANGE THE PLUGS!

If I am running 41-987 what is the next cooler plug? I am just asking

Remember we have protection so the plugs will be fine


What protection would that be? Please explain.

I only know NGK plugs. NGK's are OEM for some model northstars, I forget which. But stock is a 5 heat range, i.e. the TR55-IX (iridium model). 1 step colder is a TR6-IX, 2 steps colder is a TR7-IX (what I'm running). I think if you drop the IX it gives you the regular plugs. Iridiums will allow you to run without blowout because their tips are much finer than conventional plugs. It makes it easier for the spark to jump the gap. I'm sure they make platinums as well if you wanted to stay "stock" and save a bit of money. (The iridiums are about $8 a piece)

Highline Cady
04-22-08, 09:02 PM
We'll be monitoring EGT's and air/fuel ratios (wideband O2) and load/vacuum via the Map sensor, through a controller that we can look at through a laptop. We can wire in safety relays so that it shuts off fuel and nos instantaneously if something goes out of our predetermined specifications (A/F out of whack, EGT's to high ect).

Really don't know about the plugs though. Half the people say it's a must while the other half say it is not necessary on a "wet" system that we are using for our application. Either side holds their beliefs strongly. I do like the idea of the extra "insurance" however.

Anyway, once again, I appreciate all the input, none of it can hurt.

eldorado1
04-22-08, 10:19 PM
Wet system and stock plugs. Okay. Good luck. Monitor your EGT's carefully. :suspense:

Highline Cady
04-23-08, 01:51 AM
Actually Eldog, I won't be monitoring anything, we'll just set it up so that if certain limits are exceeded the go go juice won't work or will shut off immediately (spray and fuel). Take the responsibility completely out of my hands, probably a good thing.:D:D

AJxtcman
04-23-08, 08:17 AM
Protection

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zavt/ZAVT300.jpg
ZAVT-1
Zeitronix Audio-Visual Warning and Trigger Box.

Loud 95dB audio buzzer with a bright red LED and a relay trigger signals the alarm.

APPLICATIONS


AFR too rich The alarm activates when too rich mixture is detected.

AFR too lean The alarm activates when too lean mixture is detected.

A combination of AFR too rich and AFR too lean alarms can be used to tune for a specific AFR window.

EGT too high The alarm activates when EGT exceeds a safe user selected level.

RPM too high Shift-light functionality with a bonus of audio alarm and a relay trigger.

TPS too high The alarm activates when TPS exceeds a selected level.

USER1 Input too high The alarm activated if a sensor connected to the USER1 input exceeds a selected level.

USER1 Input too low The alarm activated if a sensor connected to the USER1 input is lower than a selected level.

Relay trigger Open or close a relay circuit to activate or deactivate additional devices at a set warning level. Typically used to add a control to your boost setting, nitrous or alcohol injection and other devices capable of engine destruction.


That would be it

AJxtcman
04-23-08, 08:21 AM
The start
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture008.jpg

The billet plate
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture009.jpg

The end cut off
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture011.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture012.jpg

Ground off all of the tabs and bumps
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture013.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture014.jpg

Assembled
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture016.jpg

AJxtcman
04-23-08, 08:29 AM
A wet system should not be considered due to port reversion effects. You can get gas puddling in the intake, uneven fuel distribution, torched pistons.......... bad stuff.


:hmm:
I was thinking about this from the start even before you mentioned this. This system is made for an LS1 and it has the same type of intake. :duck: I have my fingers crossed. We will see.

I had a conversation with Codewize about WOT and sucking up the oil in the bottom of the intake. Just think of oil the in the bottom of the intake and when you suck it up on WOT you could get a blue/black smoke cloud. :hmm: Yeah that means that you might not be cleaning carbon, just the oil out of the intake.

Hydro-lock anyone? Now I plan on spraying fuel into it:nono:

NHRATA01
04-23-08, 05:10 PM
:hmm:
I was thinking about this from the start even before you mentioned this. This system is made for an LS1 and it has the same type of intake. :duck: I have my fingers crossed. We will see.

I had a conversation with Codewize about WOT and sucking up the oil in the bottom of the intake. Just think of oil the in the bottom of the intake and when you suck it up on WOT you could get a blue/black smoke cloud. :hmm: Yeah that means that you might not be cleaning carbon, just the oil out of the intake.

Hydro-lock anyone? Now I plan on spraying fuel into it:nono:

I disagree, I would use a wet kit over a dry kit on the N*, this way you know your jetting will always be correct.

I run a similar plate type kit as what you have there, except the plate is between the TB and the intake manifold, not on the MAF. Those MAF systems work well, my only concern would be I can't recall off the top of my head where the MAF is in relation to the TB on an N* (sorry I'm still relatively new to the motor). You'd want it to be a fairly straight shot into the intake, not going around a bend. The closer to the intake the better, so the fuel won't fall out of the mixture. I really don't see any chance of puddling with a ~100 shot as long as you're spraying at at least 3000 rpms. Seen people put 200hp hits through an LS1 intake without puddling, and thats quite a bit more fuel.

So I'd also make sure you have a window and WOT switch. There's a few nice controllers that work pretty well and do both. You can tap into the TPS signal so you don't have to fiddle around with a mechanical switch. I used this controller in my setup: http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/catalog/product_details.asp?group=26&model=86&dept=11&product_id=964
Also has the option of gear lockout if you don't want to spray in first due to traction challenges. A fuel pressure safety switch is also a good idea and cheap insurance.

AJxtcman
05-01-08, 08:16 PM
New pics

MAF installed
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0371.jpg

Air Box
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0372.jpg

Mess of wires
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0373.jpg

Switches
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0374.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0376.jpg

The all important Tank 1 of 2 (they are both full)
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0377.jpg

AJxtcman
05-01-08, 08:20 PM
New pics



Air Box
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM0372.jpg



The Green wire is for another relay that will only allow the N2O in 2nd and 3rd gears:cool:

AJxtcman
05-01-08, 08:31 PM
So far I have about 20+ hours into it. Lot of work and planning. I think I had about 4 or 5 hours into just talking to Bert about it. Well talking Bert into dropping all this cash I should say.

You can talk someone into dropping their pants and bending over. If they aren't happy in the end it is no good.
Bert is already happy and he hasn't pushed the bottom yet. He is 100% confident in all the protection I have installed. I think the total dollar amount of the protection is getting close to the total of the N2O kit :histeric:

The N2O will only be applied at WOT, in 2nd and 3rd gears, with AFR no leaner that 12.8 to 1, and the EGT not over 850 C.
I may run that EGT a little cooler :hmm:

AJxtcman
05-01-08, 08:33 PM
BTW Bert the Purge Valve works great :thumbsup:

Highline Cady
05-01-08, 10:21 PM
SWEEEEET!!! I know that's your favorite part.

Looks good. To bad it's going to rain all weekend. Oh well, what was I expecting. Got to love it up here.

NHRATA01
05-01-08, 10:27 PM
Well, I really wouldn't bother with a relay for gear lockout, believe me buying a programmable controller is much easier from a wiring standpoint. Also wouldn't have spent the money for 2 bottles. With that sized shot one is fine for about 8 pases. However you really need a bottle warmer for running a wet kit. Consistent bottle pressure is key to maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio on a wet shot. If the pressure drops you are going to be way rich with the jetting. You'll also get more out of the bottle as it runs down.

Highline Cady
05-01-08, 10:31 PM
Oh and by the way AJ, a million thanx again for undertaking yet another project in the goal of creating the fastest N* powered, FWD Deville on the planet. Like how I said that, Marks can have the fastest Seville (STS), I just want the fastest Deville. Maybe we'll meet at a show someday and can have some fun with some Fords. Can't wait to start dialing her in, I'm getting anxious.

Highline Cady
05-01-08, 10:36 PM
Well, I really wouldn't bother with a relay for gear lockout, believe me buying a programmable controller is much easier from a wiring standpoint. Also wouldn't have spent the money for 2 bottles. With that sized shot one is fine for about 8 pases. However you really need a bottle warmer for running a wet kit. Consistent bottle pressure is key to maintaining the proper air/fuel ratio on a wet shot. If the pressure drops you are going to be way rich with the jetting. You'll also get more out of the bottle as it runs down.

Had an extra bottle laying around.

Thanks for the info though, maybe I'll look into a bottle warmer soon, it's just starting to nickel and dime me to death and it's not even out of the shop yet, nor have I settled up with AJ yet so I've already blown a bunch of $ and a bunch more to come I'm sure.

But I appreciate all the input and ideas that are expressed by those in the know, and look forward to posting some pretty impressive timeslips(for the car) soon, keep the info coming it is greatly appreciated.:bouncy:

NHRATA01
05-02-08, 12:26 PM
Cool well from one nitrous user (though on a bit more common platform!) to another, I wish you all the best! But trust me, it is a cheaper route, if it is done correctly, than going with any kind of forced induction setup. The MAF plate setup is nice and I think you'll like it.

Anyways hate to add another nickel and dime to your project though, but since you mentioned getting some slips with the spray on the car, you'll also need a blowdown tube for each bottle that exits outside the vehicle - tracks are pretty strict about looking for this during tech inspection. Since it's painful to drill holes in your baby, and even moreso when it's a Caddy, what you may be able to do is run some braided steel line from each bottle to a T, and then drill and mount a bulkhead somewhere down in the spare tire well that vents outside. Should be a little bit neater than drilling a pair of holes in the trunk floor for the tubes.

Highline Cady
05-02-08, 04:02 PM
Oh damn, forgot all about that. I'm sure I can sneak it by once or twice (I go to the track allot, they never even pop the hood) but the right way will be to vent it. I only have 1 bottle in the car at a time, the other is an extra, that way I won't be getting the shop all the time getting them filled.

Only 8 passes out of a 10 pound bottle though? Guess I'll find out soon. Hey what's a good price per pound anyway? I'm a bit of a Nitrous virgin you could say. Once again I appreciate all the info.:bouncy:

NHRATA01
05-02-08, 04:42 PM
Ah my mistake, I thought you had two bottles connected and teed in the car. Well, how much you use depends on the shot size. A 100hp shot uses about a pound per 1/4 mile pass I've found, so by about 8 passes the liquid level has dropped low enough that the bottle pressure won't keep up with the flow when the spray is activated, and you get some surging. A heater will help you get more out, because the bottle pressure will drop faster if it is not heated, and the bottle itself will chill when you are spraying. Warm it back up, and you can restore the bottle pressure quicker. And an FYI, a 300 watt heater will drain the battery in about 10 minutes if you leave it on...that's experience talking.

As for price, well if you find a good speed shop, you may be able to get it for around $3.50/lb. If you're unlucky or live in NY, or both, well I pay $5.50/lb when I fill. At least I did last year. Haven't made it out yet this year so I hope they didn't raise the prices. I used to drive 1 hour to CT to buy it for $3.50, but it's not worth the gas cost now at $4/gallon!

Highline Cady
05-02-08, 05:22 PM
Thanks, I thought $6 bucks a pound was a little steep. I'll have to look around more and find a better deal somewhere else. I'll chalk it up to a learning experience, but will never pay that again. Thanks for the info, how much is a bottle heater, I'll look them up later, just curious on your input.

By the way this is in WI, it should be cheaper here, don't you think?

AJxtcman
05-03-08, 01:58 AM
Can anyone see a simpler way to do this? One less relay
I want it to engage at WOT, 2nd and 3rd gears, and EGT under 850 c

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/2.jpg

Highline Cady
05-03-08, 02:42 AM
I'm out, suppose you already knew that. LOL

NHRATA01
05-03-08, 10:03 AM
Yes, buy a programmable nitrous controller that will act as the window and WOT switch, and has the option of offering 1st gear lockout. It will look for the tach to make 1 sweep to a certain rpm range before it will engage the nitrous. Then you don't have to monkey around with the second relay and wiring into the shift solenoid. Plus it will provide a window switch, which it looks like you don't have, and really should. Then just wire your EGT relay in series somewhere on the low current side.

Here's how I did it. Ignore the second stage: http://www.trickperformanceproducts.com/images/908WS_user_documentation___Trick_web_files/image052.jpg
I wired a fuel pressure safety switch in series on the yellow wire to pin 85. You could put your EGT switch in that location.

AJxtcman
05-03-08, 10:58 AM
Yes, buy a programmable nitrous controller that will act as the window and WOT switch, and has the option of offering 1st gear lockout. It will look for the tach to make 1 sweep to a certain rpm range before it will engage the nitrous. Then you don't have to monkey around with the second relay and wiring into the shift solenoid. Plus it will provide a window switch, which it looks like you don't have, and really should. Then just wire your EGT relay in series somewhere on the low current side.

Here's how I did it. Ignore the second stage: http://www.trickperformanceproducts.com/images/908WS_user_documentation___Trick_web_files/image052.jpg
I wired a fuel pressure safety switch in series on the yellow wire to pin 85. You could put your EGT switch in that location.

Bad thing is the EGT lock out box triggers the the wire to ground when in fault.

AJxtcman
05-04-08, 08:50 PM
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/1.jpg

Highline Cady
05-04-08, 09:40 PM
Sweeeeet!!!

blue_eldo
05-04-08, 10:19 PM
Highline and AJ, when and where are you going to the track?
I am in Milwaukee, on assignment, from now to the second week in June.
I would very much like to see the DHS do it's thing.
My background as a turbine controls engineer may be of some help as well.
I have an Innovate LN-1 to use if you want to do some data logging.

Highline Cady
05-04-08, 10:39 PM
Hopefully this weekend. The more the merrier. Figure we'll have to test and tune it yet, mostly at the track, just working on some of the safety devices. Best run w/out N.O.S. was a 14.6 down from a stock 16 flat. AJ's a wizard, hope we got enough magic to bust into the 13's, I know we have enough Nitrous.:thumbsup:

Highline Cady
05-04-08, 10:40 PM
Oh ya, it would be Great Lakes Dragway and thanks can never have to much help.

AJxtcman
05-05-08, 08:12 AM
Note: check fuel pump :cool:

Highline Cady
05-05-08, 01:56 PM
We need more pressure?

BlackCaddy87
05-07-08, 04:21 AM
How much nitrous do you plan on using? If you use a lot then maybe work on a tune to retard the timing a little...that or get some VERY good high octane gas to mix with it.

Try to get a video for us when your at the track :yup:

Highline Cady
05-07-08, 07:34 AM
It's already tuned. (Thanx AJ) Don't need to retard timing, and right now it's blowing 125 shot, and I'm going to the track as soon as it doesn't rain on a weekend. They are calling for rain this weekend maybe they'll be wrong, again. Already on second bottle!!! :D

AJxtcman
05-07-08, 02:57 PM
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM3592.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM3593.jpg

Highline Cady
05-07-08, 05:23 PM
Sweet!!! Looks great. I like those switches much better. One last detail to take care of. Oooo I'm excited. Tell Jodie we're cruising rain, sleet, or snow!!! LOL

BlackCaddy87
05-07-08, 06:12 PM
maybe invest in some drag radials:cool2:.

this is one very sexy cadillac!!!

Highline Cady
05-08-08, 12:20 AM
Oh thanks, man. Ya AJ and myself have already been tinkering with that idea. We have a little bit of test and fine tuning to do but first I have to get both bottles filled. :eek: Ya I know I'm using it everywhere. Having way to much fun with my new toy.

Planning on getting it to the track this weekend but I don't think mother nature is going to agree with that. I also have to hassle AJ to help me fine tune it a little before the track so I can really keep an eye out for anything that happens at the track. So far so good and we're blowing quite a fair amount through it, and a bunch of it (2 bottles already this week).:thumbsup:

AJxtcman
05-08-08, 08:28 AM
I called Santa and he was on the other line, so I had to play the email tag game. I asked him what I should have the EGT limit set at. He replied with a not so good answer and a lead in question. He said that it depends on the location of the sensor. Yeah! I replied that I was running 790 C without the N2O. He replied 1100 to 1200 will be safe. I have the EGT limit set at 800 or 850 and this is turning off the N2O. :duck: I want to be on the safe side. I am going to bump it to 1000 today. I am going to set a Lean limit of 12.6 to 1. This is a complex setting.

The Wideband module has the following inputs that can be installed.

RPM
Boost/Map Sensor
TPS
User 5V


The Alarm/Trigger box can turn the N2O off if the following occur.

AFR too rich - The alarm activates when too rich mixture is detected.
AFR too lean - The alarm activates when too lean mixture is detected.
EGT too high - The alarm activates when EGT exceeds a safe user selected level.
RPM too high - Shift-light functionality with a bonus of audio alarm and a relay trigger.
TPS too high - The alarm activates when TPS exceeds a selected level.
USER1 Input too high - The alarm activated if a sensor connected to the USER1 input exceeds a selected level.
USER1 Input too low - The alarm activated if a sensor connected to the USER1 input is lower than a selected level


I have the EGT handled, but I need a Lean setting and maybe a rich setting.
This is my plan for the lean setting for the 12.6 to 1
I plan on hooking up the USER 1 input to the N2O Solenoid 12V feed wire. I need to install a 11000 resistor in line. This gives me 5V on that wire.
The reason I need 2 inputs is because is you are cruising at 14.7 to 1 the Alarm will be going off. I only want the 12.6 to in affect with the N2O on.

We were playing around the other night. We had shut the bottle off and decide to show off the ability to smoke the tires. it was great until all the extra fuel about killed the engine. :histeric:
I was thinking I need a rich limit. We would use this if the bottle goes dry. No need to wash out a set of plugs.
I was thinking 10 to 1 with the N2O on for a rich limit.

This would give me an EGT limit, Rich limit, and a Lean limit :hmm: can't think of any thing else I need

NHRATA01
05-08-08, 03:15 PM
Keep an eye out, you may have a problem if it kicks off for being too lean. Wet systems tend to have a lean spike at activation (especially if it's a returnless system) because the intial opening of the fuel noid drains out the fuel rails and it takes a second for the fuel pump to restore the pressure. Shouldn't be as bad on a return style system, but on a returnless with the regulator back at the fuel pump it's a fact of life. You may have to adjust the sensitivity of your a/f alarm. Best bet is to throw it on a dyno with a wideband and see if you get a spike.

Highline Cady
05-20-08, 12:15 AM
Hey just thought I'd give an update. Probably going to upgrade the fuel pump try to minimize the lean spike at activation, also going to grab a bottle heater and a blow down tube for track use. Pretty much everything you have acknowledged NHRATA01 has come to fruition. Everything is looking fairly good on the datalogger, besides the initial lean spike, but all and all almost ready to get her to the track for some dialing in, might go up to 150 shot from 125. Looks like that will work best with a higher volume pump.

It does haul a** though, can't wait to get her dialed in perfect, she's close.

Any other useful tidbits NHRATA01?

And, of course, thanks again.

NHRATA01
05-20-08, 02:53 PM
Cool, well good luck with it.

The pump should help a little, but it may still be present. I've upgraded from factory to a walbro 255 with a hotwire kit so it pulls voltage directly off the altenator (to eliminate voltage drop across the factory harnesses), and I was still getting a small spike at activation of the 100 shot, somehwere around 15:1 for a brief moment before settling in around 11.5:1. You can try to further minimize it by running a shorter fuel line from the noid to the jet compared to the nitrous line. 900 psi of liquified gas will move a heck of alot quicker than 60 psi of fuel.

Highline Cady
05-21-08, 12:06 AM
Ya I figure the spike will always be there at engagement, on this particular setup, but I just want to make it less or a quicker spike. Otherwise much like yours it settles out fine. I don't engage it until it shifts into 2nd so I'm at 4200-4500 RPM's at engagement and that's the only spike, it's fine right after all the way through half of 3rd where I've been letting off at just over a hundred.

I did purchase a pressure activated bottle heater, a little more expensive but I figured what the hell at this point. It comes in tomorrow, I'll pick it up while I'm getting both bottles filled, again.:thumbsup: It is addictive!!! And just way to much fun!!!:2thumbs:

AJxtcman
05-21-08, 08:44 AM
We have seen 812C EGT without Nitrous.
Santa Clause told me I could run 1200C with no problem. This is related to the placement of the EGT. The Alarm Box setting won't go over 1000C. At 1000 we will be safe.

The lean setting is 12.6 with the Nitrous. This setting is a "Complex Setting" The alarm would be going off all the time because under normal conditions we are 14.7 to 1. I hooked up an input so that I get 5V on a input wire when the Nitrous in on.
I have a Complex setting of Leaner than 12.6 and the 5V Nitrous input. New problem. Lean spike. Then the alarm shut off the Nitrous and the car starts to Jerk Off.

The General sent us some cool tools to monitor Fuel Pressure in the last few years. We got a Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge. This has a Min/Max recording option (Similar to a Fluke DMM). The other tool is high dollar and I have not used it to monitor fuel pressure yet.
I am going to hook the Digital Gauge up to the Northstar with N2O and see how much it drops when we make a run without N2O. I may see a tip in drop, but I hope it shoots way up and never tappers off. Then I plan to make a few runs with the N2O. We enable the N2O only after shifting into 2nd and we have been WOT for a few seconds. If we get a drop in fuel pressure when the N2O engages or it tappers down I am going to install a BIG fuel pump.

Something as basic as fuel pressure/volume that can not be checked with a needle gauge because of the duration of the condition.

NHRATA01
05-21-08, 02:57 PM
If I hammer the gas without spraying, my fuel pressure will usually drop from about 65psi down to 60 for a brief moment, and then build back up. Does about the same on the spray with the initial hit, though I have a hard time watching the fuel pressure gauge and shift light at the same time.

Really its going to be a fact of life on a returnless setup, even with a big pump. Alot of folks will convert to a return line fuel rail to reduce the effect.

You could also go with a standalone fuel tank just for the nitrous, mounted in the engine bay if you can find some room under there. Then you can keep the small tank filled with race gas, and it will only be consumed when spraying. Just plumb it right to the fuel solenoid.

AJxtcman
05-21-08, 07:10 PM
If I hammer the gas without spraying, my fuel pressure will usually drop from about 65psi down to 60 for a brief moment, and then build back up. Does about the same on the spray with the initial hit, though I have a hard time watching the fuel pressure gauge and shift light at the same time.

Really its going to be a fact of life on a returnless setup, even with a big pump. Alot of folks will convert to a return line fuel rail to reduce the effect.

You could also go with a standalone fuel tank just for the nitrous, mounted in the engine bay if you can find some room under there. Then you can keep the small tank filled with race gas, and it will only be consumed when spraying. Just plumb it right to the fuel solenoid.

This is not a Returnless System

eldorado1
05-21-08, 08:47 PM
The fuel line needs to be short. If you ran it all over the engine bay, make it more direct shot. Solenoid to nozzle shouldn't be more than a foot max.

AJxtcman
05-21-08, 09:09 PM
The fuel line needs to be short. If you ran it all over the engine bay, make it more direct shot. Solenoid to nozzle shouldn't be more than a foot max.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/smilies/fight.gif

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Picture016.jpg

AJxtcman
05-22-08, 08:24 AM
Initial Lean spike on a Closed throttle to WOT from a dead stop (17.1)
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/17.jpg

The system goes a little lean on the 1-2 shift (13.6)
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/13.jpg

This is the Lean Spike form the Nitrous jet opening (13.1)
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/spike13.jpg

This is the Rich peak with the Nitrous on. (10.3) The bottle may have been getting weak
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/low10.jpg

NHRATA01
05-22-08, 03:56 PM
This is not a Returnless System

A late model Northstar isn't returnless? I'll have to go take a gander when I finally change my oil this weekend. Thought GM implemented it across the board on their engines by around '01/'02 for emissions purposes?

AJxtcman
05-23-08, 07:33 PM
The heater made the system go lean. I put a larger fuel jet in and turned up the fuel pressure 10%, but it still goes lean. I plan on dropping the fuel pressure 5% and making so more runs. The heater really helped getting consistent runs.

AJxtcman
05-25-08, 06:23 PM
This or http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/smilies/nos.gif This? http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/smilies/nxsmile.gif

AJxtcman
05-25-08, 07:58 PM
Jet Calculator (http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm)

AJxtcman
05-25-08, 08:29 PM
eC9w2alvIDI

AJxtcman
05-26-08, 01:52 PM
Snap Shot: N2O vs NO N2O

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/bert%20testing%20graphs%20after%20converter/0mph.jpg
.
.
.

80mph in 10.079 and 1.576 faster than it was when we ran a 14.7 1/4 mile without N2O
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/bert%20testing%20graphs%20after%20converter/80mph.jpg
.
.
.

102mph in 15.243 on N2O vs 92mph in 15.379 on motor :sneaky: That would be a 10 mph increase and .136 second quicker.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/bert%20testing%20graphs%20after%20converter/102vs92.jpg

Highline Cady
05-26-08, 10:55 PM
I love it!!! I know it's not track slips, but the differences off the info off of the data logs and tech2, w/ n.o.s. and without are astounding, obviously it's a whole different animal on the go-go juice. We'll get her down to the track soon, just been so crazy lately, but will get it down to show off a amazing time slip soon to come.:thumbsup:

AJxtcman
06-18-08, 04:01 PM
Grr :rant2:

AJxtcman
06-18-08, 08:38 PM
The System has been going lean for a few weeks and we have not run it at the track for that reason.

I Called Craig @ Nitrous Express and he told me that the rubber on the Fuel Solenoid Plunger could be swelling up. He asked me to check the color of the rubber and call him back. I removed the plunger and the seal looked fine to me. I called he back and told him it was tan in color. He asked me if the rubber was flush with the stainless steel. I replied No it is not. Hmm
The fuel swelled up the seal and has been making my lean condition. Craig sent me out a special replacement Fuel Solenoid.

NHRATA01
06-19-08, 11:01 PM
Well, I have heard reports of the ethanol in E10 wrecking the plunger gaskets on fuel noids. I think you may see quite a few more people toasting motors on spray now that E10 is pretty much country wide in its use. Supposedly NX was using a new gasket material, I think viton instead of rubber and has been for a couple of years. Was your kit new or used, I can't remember?

Highline Cady
06-20-08, 04:46 AM
Brand new. The fuel solenoid leaked when initially installed, so it's been suspect from the beginning. This crap gas finished it off? Apparently NX has a different better updated design for the crap gas, specify when you order, I guess. They're sending one. :thumbsup:

AJxtcman
06-20-08, 08:25 AM
Well, I have heard reports of the ethanol in E10 wrecking the plunger gaskets on fuel noids. I think you may see quite a few more people toasting motors on spray now that E10 is pretty much country wide in its use. Supposedly NX was using a new gasket material, I think viton instead of rubber and has been for a couple of years. Was your kit new or used, I can't remember?


Brand new. The fuel solenoid leaked when initially installed, so it's been suspect from the beginning. This crap gas finished it off? Apparently NX has a different better updated design for the crap gas, specify when you order, I guess. They're sending one. :thumbsup:

One more thing to add
Craig mentioned Winter and Summer blends.
Maybe we started with a Winter blend and the Summer blend killed it.

We have 3 different types of Data Loggers, so we will know if the Summer blend needs more fuel by weight.

AJxtcman
06-30-08, 09:47 AM
We are finally heading to the track.

We have had a few problems that developed after having the system on the car for a few weeks.
#1 the car was going lean after the Bottle heater was installed.:eek:
#2 Rain rain and more rain.
#3 My schedule

The lean condition may have been caused by a plunger in the fuel solenoid. The original plunger had a tan rubber insert in the end of it. The fuel in our area caused the rubber portion to swell out past the end of the metal portion. I was informed that the plunger travels about .030 of an inch and the rubber was out about .015". The new plunger NX sent me had a black rubber material and it is actually recesses in the metal portion

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/PLUNGER.jpg

AJxtcman
06-30-08, 10:06 AM
WE Need New Plugs Bert!

Highline Cady
07-01-08, 04:01 AM
So between AJ's schedule my schedule all the damn rain and the usual little problems that go along when trying to make a non V series N* fast we have not gotten down to the track yet. We will, but we are dealing with a few items that keep tripping the controller and shutting off the nitrous. So we have had some problems with gas eating up the fuel solenoid, NX was great sent out a re-designed replacement right away. That was an obvious problem, now fixed.

We still go lean sometimes, not always, just sometimes, and the controller does it's job shutting off the juice, and saving the motor. We are going to put in new plugs that are one range colder gapped smaller and pull the (I don't remember the jet #'s so you'll have to deal with this) 125hp nitrous jet in favor of a 100 nitrous jet but leave the 150hp fuel jet in it. If that solves the lean condition permanently, we then will probably upgrade the fuel pump, figure out a way to ramp up the fuel pressure from 49 to 55psi without locking up the injectors, throw in a 150hp nitrous jet and a 200hp fuel jet and see how the PCM likes those changes.

The goal is to get it running worry free first and then bumping the jets to the 150-200hp, but I plan on getting to the track Wednesday (barring another T-storm) but will probably only be pushing a 100 shot of juice and roughly the 150hp fuel jet. Right now we are running the 125hp nitrous jet and a 150hp fuel jet and ever since the bottle heater it sometimes goes lean, sometimes it runs like a raped ape, I mean really really flies!!!

Just have to get her more consistent before I can go out looking for a race. I can't have the controller shutting off the nitrous when I'm trying to run a mustang. LOL

AJxtcman
07-01-08, 02:18 PM
This must be stock.:lies:

RPM----Spark---Air Fuel Ratio (:1)
666 ----- 10 ----- 14.7
1924 ---- 19 ----- 12.8
3276 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
3357 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
4120 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
5246 ---- 21 ----- 12.8
6358 ---- -4 ----- 12.7
4615 ----- 6 ----- 12.8
4948 ----- 8 ----- 12.8
5304 ---- 13 ----- 12.8
5680 ---- 17 ----- 12.8
6038 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
6316 ---- 19 ----- 10.5
5455 ----- 7 ----- 10.5
4683 ----- 8 ----- 10.5
4800 ----- 9 ----- 10.5
4923 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5053 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5161 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5275 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5079 ---- 25 ----- 14.7
3299 ---- 22 ----- 14.7
3057 ---- 21 ----- 14.7
2936 ---- 21 ----- 14.7

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/VDR/Bert/VDR1.jpg

Highline Cady
07-03-08, 12:51 AM
Rain rain and more rain. Living in the Midwest this summer really blows. Yet another time the track was closed do to rain. We'll get it there yet, hopefully.

AJxtcman
07-06-08, 06:15 PM
WE Need New Plugs Bert!

I installed a shorter gap plug (.040) and one range cooler. That seemed to help with the lean condition. I installed a non platinum plug just to test them. I will need to install some platinum plugs for a LS1. That comes out as the same heat range as stock and the .040 gap.

AJxtcman
07-07-08, 08:25 AM
This is the new plugs one range colder and gapped to .040
This is 79 frames/ticks to complete the run. the IAT reading was 80 deg
This had NO N2O
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknocknoN2O79frames.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknocknoN2Orun179frames.jpg

This is spraying N2O
This was 10 minutes after the first run
This was 40 frames. Yes 1/2 of the top
This had less Knock Retard
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknock.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknock2N2O.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknock3.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknock4.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/7-4-08sparkknock5.jpg

AJxtcman
07-07-08, 03:03 PM
Hey guy's This is how fast this car is!
Both of these are framed out at 80 frames. They are ran up to 102 and 103, so about the same mph.

Maybe I need to work on the Data Collection rate and recording length, but it fly's. I am using some new software and I need to figure it out

NO N2O (the total recording length is 140 frames)
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/NoN2O80frame7-4-08.jpg


N2O RUN (the total recording length is 81 frames)
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/VDR/N2O80frames7-4-08.jpg

AJxtcman
07-08-08, 12:48 AM
Can we start a pool on what the fasted the car will run at the track?

I am in @ 12.98

Yeah a 4300+ car down the track in 12.9

This thing is FAST

I have a Stock 99 PCM in my Fiero and we left a light together. I saw his rear bumper. :eek:
Yeah I was starting in second :stirpot:

Now I can trick the Stock PCM and run a 12.58 in the Fiero. If I don't trick it, but still enable 1st gear starts I run a 13.3 to 13.6.

We were out on the test road and lined up. I gave Highline a jump by about a car. He almost drove away from me. I caught him and then me fuel cut kicked in at 90 mph for some odd reason. He blew by me. :stirpot:

SO!
anyone

AJxtcman
07-08-08, 11:35 PM
We actually ran the place we get N2O out of N2O.
I bet we ran over 25 10lbs bottles through it already

Highline Cady
07-09-08, 01:09 AM
We have used allot. Getting to the track tommorrow if it doesn't rain again, it's not supposed to.:thumbsup:

My guess: low to mid 13's? Find out tommorrow, barring weather, again

eldorado1
07-09-08, 12:39 PM
You'll probably trap around 102, but times will be 13.6 or so. I think you'll be traction limited. Depends on the track.

Consider switching to NGK Iridium plugs. I am running TR7-IX's which is a couple ranges colder than stock (pre 99 engine). I know I give AJ a lot of crap, but I don't want to see your car blow up because he's never worked with nitrous before. Much colder plugs are needed to prevent preignition. None of your gauges will detect preignition. Well, except for the EGT. You'll see it drop for a bit, but by then it will be too late because you'll be blowing oil smoke out your exhaust. The iridium plugs also have a finer tip which makes jumping the gap easier. Really useful for a stock ignition system.


Now I can trick the Stock PCM and run a 12.58 in the Fiero.

Drugs are bad, mmmkay.

AJxtcman
07-09-08, 05:38 PM
We wanted to try a shorter gaped plug. I thought that as long as we are testing plugs let try one range cooler.

Lyndon has stated that the Stock plugs are fine. He has a dyno and has played with N2O a lot.

The EGT's only go up about 50c on a full run over stock.

:sneaky: I say 12.89 to 12.99 :sneaky:

You can look at this over on the LS1TECH forum also.
I get some help from the Aussie LS1 guys also. BIG HELP on the? Yeah you know:hmm:

Nitrous Express LS1 MAF kit installed on (http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940197)

AJxtcman
07-10-08, 12:41 AM
You'll probably trap around 102, but times will be 13.6 or so. I think you'll be traction limited. Depends on the track.

Consider switching to NGK Iridium plugs. I am running TR7-IX's which is a couple ranges colder than stock (pre 99 engine). I know I give AJ a lot of crap, but I don't want to see your car blow up because he's never worked with nitrous before. Much colder plugs are needed to prevent preignition. None of your gauges will detect preignition. Well, except for the EGT. You'll see it drop for a bit, but by then it will be too late because you'll be blowing oil smoke out your exhaust. The iridium plugs also have a finer tip which makes jumping the gap easier. Really useful for a stock ignition system.



Drugs are bad, mmmkay.
Yeah we had traction problem. I Think the first run he hit 105 and I think a 14.9, but spun out of the hole.

So I let Highline play on a few more runs and then installed the 200hp jets. he had a 14.8. hmmmmmmmm WTF
I checked the bottle temp and PSI. I sent him out again and he hit 14.2. :histeric: we ran out of gas :histeric: That makes sense on the 13.8 on 200 hp jets vs 13.9 on 125 jets. He did not have any safety cut out problems

Highline Cady
07-10-08, 03:36 AM
No No No, 1st run was 13.959 @ 102.52, we did have traction problems Eldo. What was weird was that it was bad out of the hole (off the nitrous) also. I was flipping the switch in first after 4,000 rpm's and spinning the tires again, shifting at 6700 and spinning the tires again, which kinda surprised me (at the track), but then again, it didn't.

On the second run I tried to "feather" it out of the hole, to avoid tire spin, and did, until engagement, again. So not as much tire spin but it still hurt, and ran a 14.087 @ 101.99mph.

3rd run was the best but still traction limited, this time we lowered the front tires to 18psi and did a big smoky burn out. Still spun/wheel hopped of the line and spun again after the initial engagement of nitrous, and again on the shift, but ran a 13.883 @ 105.46. Then we were basically out of juice because of the purging/jet change and runs, but we didn't know it until after the jet change and on the next run figured it out 1/2 way down the track, that timeslip, a 14.2 @ 99.1 confirmed it.

(On a total side note: Have any of you ever been to a track where they didn't sell nitrous? Or is that common? It was annoying.:rant2:)

Well reached 2 out of the 3 goals. 1) To break into the 13's. 2) Break 100mph. 3) Bust a 13.5 or better. 2 for 3 ain't bad, it's baseball season. :thumbsup:

Here's #'s of her best run w/o nitrous, which was actually at the Midwest Cadillac Meet earlier this year, and then today's best run with the gas.

60' 2.259--------- 2.270
330 6.252--------- 6.164
1/8 9.509--------- 9.171
MPH 75.9---------- 82.9
1000 12.296-------- 11.737
1/4 14.659-------- 13.883
MPH 95.23--------- 105.46

She's got more in her, on a nicer day, on a nicer track, with less gas and more nitrous! :histeric:

I'll keep you guys posted, next time I'm bringing both bottles, and maybe some slicks! :cool:

Oh, and she ran great, both on the juice and on the way there and home. We've run it allot just could never get to the track, I'm going back Friday, but it's supposed to rain, surprise.

AJxtcman
07-10-08, 08:16 AM
We left for the track with 7/8+ of a tank of gas:stirpot:
WTF we all make mistakes.:stirpot:

Highline filled the tank of the DHS a couple of weeks or so ago, but the way things came up he was driving other car.
His sisters C5 came in for service. We had T-storms with possible hail warnings for a couple of day prior to that, so he had his truck. I had his truck and he needed a truck, so he had his moms T-blazer SS. He heard some snapping noise in it, so he had been driving it for about a week. Highline came back to Crest after a few years not working. The rumor is he was semi retired. Anyway I wasn't working and they had other techs on vacation, so he never got his moms SS looked at after a week.
Highline takes care of any problem that his families car have. Oil changes, squeaks and rattle, Tires and brake, Performance exhaust systems, I think he even fills the gas on his moms cars. He is a #1 type of son. :cool2:

Hey his is just a little goofy. He wants to go fast and NO RATTLES:histeric:
He gets that from his mom :thumbsup: She drive a C6 and a T-blazer SS

Oh yeah HighLine is in Sales at the dealer, so if you want that new or used Cadillac let him know. They sell to people all over the Midwest and Canada

NHRATA01
07-11-08, 04:41 PM
Don't do a smokey burnout on street tires, its just going to make them spin easier. And make sure you drive around the water box. Get some drag radials, and they'll help a ton with the traction. Wouldn't try slicks yet, you may frag the diff and it can get a bit hairy on the big end running a bias-ply/radial tire mix on the car, will be like skating on ice. Get some good drag radials, they'll help a ton with the traction and work well on auto cars.

Also run a copper plug on the spray, don't run platinum and definitely don't run iridium - they burn hotter so detonation is a bigger problem.

Highline Cady
07-14-08, 07:26 PM
Thanks again NHRATA, you've been a big help, she's finally dialed in good, now getting traction in a FWD is the next project. It never ends. And maybe my own refill station, seems like it'll be way cheaper.

AJxtcman
07-15-08, 09:47 AM
Jets we have
0.019
0.023
0.027
0.031
0.033
0.035
0.039
0.041
0.052
0.057
0.062
0.093

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Jets.jpg

Highline Cady
07-26-08, 08:44 PM
Just an update gentlemen. Running the 150 shot jets on the street, having way to much fun until the bottle runs empty.:crybaby:

We've run at least 20 bottles through it, got it down to the track once, and I've been driving allot lately. And have had no real problems since getting her dialed in on these jets. The filter got plugged up once, but since then, well... lets just say I've been having lots of fun. It truly is the most fun you can have with a bottle.:thumbsup: I have had NO ill effects, still a wonderful daily driver!!!

We are currently working on slicks and possibly a LSD before we get to the track again, but we'll get down there again. We'll run big jets and we will bust into the 12's this summer, period. It has become the mission of my summer. I'll keep you all updated.:yup:

AJxtcman
09-17-08, 03:07 PM
Did a little more fine tuning on this. :worship:
.

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.

.

.

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.
Well It didn't make it any faster, but it looks good

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM3766.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM3776.jpg

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/HPIM3781.jpg

AJxtcman
09-12-09, 06:19 PM
The last time at the track we ran 20 lbs of Nitrous through the engine at this setting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Jet3.jpg

The car is still driven almost daily.

The DHS Nitrous has been sidelined for the Mustang project

Submariner409
09-12-09, 08:01 PM
AJ, Better to tell our new members just what you're running at the track - a blanket set of specs, I want nitrous, and the "daily driver" wars will start again.........!!!!

...........and post the timeslip.

AJxtcman
09-13-09, 01:05 PM
AJ, Better to tell our new members just what you're running at the track - a blanket set of specs, I want nitrous, and the "daily driver" wars will start again.........!!!!

...........and post the timeslip.

Highline has his time slips.
it has been a year now, but I think they were in the 13.6 or 13.8 area

AJxtcman
09-13-09, 03:16 PM
This Data came from the Zeitronix Module not the PCM

This was the base run without N2O

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O1stgear13to1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O1stgear12.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O2ndgear12.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O2ndgear12-6to1.jpg

COT?
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O2ndgear10-6to1COT.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O2ndgear10-5to1COT6450.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/NoN2O3rdgearCOT10-5to1.jpg

AJxtcman
09-13-09, 03:23 PM
This Data came from the Zeitronix Module not the PCM
This run has N2O.
look for User 1 Input voltage going fron 0v to 5v when the N2O is on

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2O1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2O1stgear.jpg

Blip rich when the extra injector kicks in
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2Obliprich.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2OStabilize.jpg

COT again?
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2OCOT10.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2OCOT1016600.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Data-Log%20Compare/N2OCOT3rdgear.jpg

AJxtcman
09-13-09, 03:26 PM
And they were on the same road going the same direction and the same starting spot about 5 minutes apart from each other allowing for some cooling time.

AJxtcman
09-13-09, 03:31 PM
This must be stock.:lies:

RPM----Spark---Air Fuel Ratio (:1)
666 ----- 10 ----- 14.7
1924 ---- 19 ----- 12.8
3276 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
3357 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
4120 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
5246 ---- 21 ----- 12.8
6358 ---- -4 ----- 12.7
4615 ----- 6 ----- 12.8
4948 ----- 8 ----- 12.8
5304 ---- 13 ----- 12.8
5680 ---- 17 ----- 12.8
6038 ---- 18 ----- 12.8
6316 ---- 19 ----- 10.5
5455 ----- 7 ----- 10.5
4683 ----- 8 ----- 10.5
4800 ----- 9 ----- 10.5
4923 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5053 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5161 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5275 ---- 11 ----- 10.5
5079 ---- 25 ----- 14.7
3299 ---- 22 ----- 14.7
3057 ---- 21 ----- 14.7
2936 ---- 21 ----- 14.7

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/VDR/Bert/VDR1.jpg

As you can see the PCM changes the Target AFR for some type of protection. I would have to guess Cat Over temp (COT), but it could be piston protection also

AJxtcman
09-13-09, 03:54 PM
If you plan on going up any higher than 125 shot I would put a high volume fuel pump in. I have a dual 75 shots on mine, had good fuel till 5500-6000 then it would lean out. I quit using it till I take care of the fuel prob. I like the gas I have had it on almost all my vehicles even the forced inducted ones. I have the same setup that's on the cadi. that I had on my stock suburban. I had a dual setup on it that was running about 175 HP shot on both systems. It sure was fun seeing the faces on people in T/A, Vetts. that just got beat by a suburban.


Keep an eye out, you may have a problem if it kicks off for being too lean. Wet systems tend to have a lean spike at activation (especially if it's a returnless system) because the intial opening of the fuel noid drains out the fuel rails and it takes a second for the fuel pump to restore the pressure. Shouldn't be as bad on a return style system, but on a returnless with the regulator back at the fuel pump it's a fact of life. You may have to adjust the sensitivity of your a/f alarm. Best bet is to throw it on a dyno with a wideband and see if you get a spike.

Thanks for all the input you two gave us.
We had a lot of fun with the car

AJxtcman
03-28-10, 01:48 PM
The last time at the track we ran 20 lbs of Nitrous through the engine at this setting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd25/AJxtcman/Bert/N2O/Jet3.jpg

The car is still driven almost daily.

The DHS Nitrous has been sidelined for the Mustang project

Last time at the track when we blasted it down the track with the big jets the car started to leak oil. The oil leak came out of the RR corner of the case halves near the trans. This engine had pistons put in it and the engine was sealed with GM's TriBond epoxy sealer aka new grey sealer. So we cracked the sealer. The oil leak is very minor and isn't even dripping. It just gets a little damp on that corner. I have cleaned the oil off and rechecked it 2 weeks later and didn't see any signs of oil, but after 3000 miles we saw some minor residue.

Beware of springing a leak