: '05 cam swap



SS from the "Wood"
04-05-08, 06:51 PM
I'm looking for a good bump stick swap over my factory one... any suggestions? Would this mod require removal of engine or other mods?

peedeerooster
04-05-08, 08:27 PM
Look at the VRX3. I think that is the one I am going to do.

Naf
04-06-08, 02:47 AM
GT2-3 from LPE, i have seen some really good numbers off of it, and you can use it for FI as well later on if you choose to go that route...

trukk
04-06-08, 02:35 PM
It all depends on your goals.

I have a DD that will see track time on the road course. I wanted power, reliability and TQ under the curve to get the car out of the corners. With that in mind I got acustom cam spec'd:

224/228 .609/.588 111LSA +0 advance
Comp Cams XFI/XE-R lobes
3015R/3724R HR111LSA +0 advance (111 installed intake centerline)

I hope to have it installed this week. I'll post my before/after results.

-Chris

rand49er
04-06-08, 08:41 PM
Hey, Chris, are you doing anything with the springs and/or rocker arms, too, or staying with the stockers on that cam?

Before and after dyno? Sma-a-r-r-t!!! This is gonna be meaningful! :thumbsup:

JonCR96Z
04-06-08, 09:48 PM
I'm looking for a good bump stick swap over my factory one... any suggestions? Would this mod require removal of engine or other mods?

Custom grind is the way to go. Have it made with your goals in mind while maximizing the mods you have.

You'll have to remove the radiator and a/c condensor along with everything on the front of the engine. Not as hard as it may sound and there are plenty of write-ups on the net for such things.

Jon

trukk
04-07-08, 10:25 AM
Hey, Chris, are you doing anything with the springs and/or rocker arms, too, or staying with the stockers on that cam?

Before and after dyno? Sma-a-r-r-t!!! This is gonna be meaningful! :thumbsup:

Randy,

Part way down in this post, I detail all the parts I'm using.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-cts-v-series-forum-2004/136461-bolton-mods-cam-only-rwhp.html

And yes, I'm updrading everything that doesn't require the heads to come off.

-Chris

SS from the "Wood"
04-08-08, 05:33 PM
GT2-3 from LPE, i have seen some really good numbers off of it, and you can use it for FI as well later on if you choose to go that route...

I wonder if I'll have to replace any other valvetrain parts? What do you mean I can use it for FI later?

atdeneve
04-08-08, 06:15 PM
Later on down the road, if you decide to go forced induction, the cam is blower friendly. There probably isn't too much overlap in that cam.

SS from the "Wood"
04-08-08, 06:21 PM
OH... For sure!

Probably a good idea to upgrade springs while I'm at it to make way for the maggy!!!:worship:

HushH
04-08-08, 11:52 PM
Yeah, you'll definitely want to upgrade springs and rods. Trukk made a great post on this linked above.

benelliwang
04-09-08, 01:52 AM
With every cam swap, you must swap out the springs as stock springs can't handle the high lift and will break.
I've used stock push rods on my heads/cam vette for 3 years without issues. But I've seen people bend pushrods on stock cam too. Also make sure you have the correct base circle on the cam otherwise you may have to swap out the pushrods to correct length.
Strangely, I pooped a head gasket before so I am using ARP Head studs ever since. Maybe overkill on NA but I spray N2O on my car.
While you are in there, you might as well get a better oil pump and a better timing chain set up. But I was cheap and stayed with stock parts, no issue for 3 years of daily driving on a heads/cam car.
I've always used stock rocker arms as aftermarket ones are expansive and only free up a little HP.
I've done about 8 cam swaps in my life and it is pretty easy to do. Just watch out for dropped lifters.

Naf
04-09-08, 03:36 AM
Thunder racing has rods you stick in the heads to avoid the lifters from fallin...Very nice tool to have if you are doing cam swaps...

Ordered one for my friend, still waitin on the money to clear...

benelliwang
04-09-08, 04:51 AM
Thunder racing has rods you stick in the heads to avoid the lifters from fallin...Very nice tool to have if you are doing cam swaps...

Ordered one for my friend, still waitin on the money to clear...

You could of just use some wooden sticks, works well for me.

JonCR96Z
04-09-08, 03:09 PM
I've always used stock rocker arms as aftermarket ones are expensive and only free up a little HP.

HP is not the reason to run aftermarket rockers in an LS1. It's the piece of mind in knowing that your stock ones won't explode and throw needle bearings throughout the engine, because that does happen.

Jon

benelliwang
04-09-08, 03:20 PM
Puking needle bearings suck but I've had my original rocker arms since 97 (98 C5 made in 97) and no issues. It have gone through 65k miles which 40k miles of them are with heads/cam with 7k rpm rev limit. I may be luck, or this is are much rarer occurrence then internet portraits. I've seen 3 cases on the internet but never one here locally.

JonCR96Z
04-09-08, 03:30 PM
I would say that it probably mostly a big cam thing. Maybe even from improper valve train geometry. Either way it has happened before a probably will again. Just putting it out there.

trukk
04-09-08, 03:32 PM
HP is not the reason to run aftermarket rockers in an LS1. It's the piece of mind in knowing that your stock ones won't explode and throw needle bearings throughout the engine, because that does happen.

Jon

Jon,

Which rockers did you go with again?

Also what cam?

-Chris

JonCR96Z
04-09-08, 03:40 PM
yella terra-ultra lite and the cam was speced as this 230/234 .612”/.598” 111LSA +2 advance, but cam doctored at 232.53/236.24 0.615"/0.597" 111.64

Still just been waiting on some free time and garage space which by the way has just become available thanks to this get getting out of the way http://youtube.com/watch?v=P6oUKlbJhoo . Evidently drag cars take more than a few weeks to put together.

I'm considering putting in my clutch and having it re-dynoed tuned to lock my place once and for all as the 'bolt on king'. Then doing the head/cam swap.

trukk
04-09-08, 04:14 PM
yella terra-ultra lite and the cam was speced as this 230/234 .612”/.598” 111LSA +2 advance, but cam doctored at 232.53/236.24 0.615"/0.597" 111.64

Still just been waiting on some free time and garage space which by the way has just become available thanks to this get getting out of the way http://youtube.com/watch?v=P6oUKlbJhoo . Evidently drag cars take more than a few weeks to put together.

I'm considering putting in my clutch and having it re-dynoed tuned to lock my place once and for all as the 'bolt on king'. Then doing the head/cam swap.

LOL at bolt-on king :D

Are you going to be at summit? I'd like to see that OTR intake.

I'm also doing the YT ultralites.

My cam is a bit smaller. What lobes did you go with?

Here's my adcole, Comp was spot on with mine. 224/228 .610/.588 111+0

http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/4210/adcoleqg4.jpg

-Chris

JonCR96Z
04-09-08, 08:19 PM
Summit? What's that? Is there a dragstrip there? You might have to head down south to see the OTR. Who said that I'm gonna be showing it off anyway. I don't have my patent, yet. You might be working for 2c5s.

The ultra lites seem to be the way to go. Less weight on the nose to help prevent floating issues, though I've used the old style YTs before with no problem.

The lobes are XFI/XE-R. PatG said that it was common for Comp's roller cams to be ground a little bigger than they should be, but not to worry. I was more than happy to see a bigger number. My DCR is still high and the AFR should help me in keeping a strong low end.

Something else that I wanted to mention is that I spoke with Racetronix and ThunderRacing about a fuel pump and hot wire kit for the V. Thunder supposedly has the kit in stock for $249. I believe I said that I would let you or someone know about that when I found out, but I forgot.

Jon

trukk
04-09-08, 08:54 PM
Summit? What's that? Is there a dragstrip there? You might have to head down south to see the OTR. Who said that I'm gonna be showing it off anyway. I don't have my patent, yet. You might be working for 2c5s.

The ultra lites seem to be the way to go. Less weight on the nose to help prevent floating issues, though I've used the old style YTs before with no problem.

The lobes are XFI/XE-R. PatG said that it was common for Comp's roller cams to be ground a little bigger than they should be, but not to worry. I was more than happy to see a bigger number. My DCR is still high and the AFR should help me in keeping a strong low end.

Something else that I wanted to mention is that I spoke with Racetronix and ThunderRacing about a fuel pump and hot wire kit for the V. Thunder supposedly has the kit in stock for $249. I believe I said that I would let you or someone know about that when I found out, but I forgot.

Jon

LOL @ 2c5s reference. He was the originator yo :D

Mine is XFI/XE-R also.

I went with 42lb/hr injectors, I'm hoping that for the mods I'm doing that will be sufficient and the stock fuel pump can keep up. What do you think the cutoff is on when you'd need to go to a boosted stock system 450 rwhp? (assuming larger injectors).

-Chris

JonCR96Z
04-09-08, 09:50 PM
LOL @ 2c5s reference. He was the originator yo :D

Atleast that's what he says.

I don't think that you'll have any problem with your setup. Cam only LS6 shouldn't be pushing any limits. When you do the heads you may consider the hotwire kit even if you stick with the stock pump just for insurance.

I'm doing the SVO 30#s and bigger pump for the idea that smaller injector with more open time will help with fuel atomization and cooler intake charge.

Jon

trukk
04-10-08, 12:16 PM
Atleast that's what he says.

I don't think that you'll have any problem with your setup. Cam only LS6 shouldn't be pushing any limits. When you do the heads you may consider the hotwire kit even if you stick with the stock pump just for insurance.

I'm doing the SVO 30#s and bigger pump for the idea that smaller injector with more open time will help with fuel atomization and cooler intake charge.

Jon

He was the originator. You trust him right? I mean he never showed any pics.....:D

Good to know. I'm not sure how I feel about the 'boost-a-pump' idea. I'd rather just have a better pump in there, and overdriving my OEM one (that just seems like a recipe for disaster in a daily driver, I could be wrong though , WTF do I know.)

I was initially going to do red tops too, but a both of my local tuners and local installer steered me away to the Lucas 42 #ers. The seemed very concerned that once I went to heads, I'd start bumping the top of the red tops flow range. Either way, I'll let you know how they perform. I DEFINATELY will not run out of injector with these 42#ers. I had them flowed, and they are closer to 45 LBS.

-Chris

P.S. My car is FINALLY at the shop having the cam installed. I hope to have it back by Sunday.

-Chris

JonCR96Z
04-10-08, 02:48 PM
The hot wire kit isn't a "boost-a-pump". The boost-a-pump is more like an amp for the fuel pump. The hot wire kit is just new wiring that allows more constant voltage (tied into the alternator, instead of the battery) and better grounds. It's designed to help bigger aftermarket pumps get the power they need and can't get from the factory wiring. It probably won't help the stock pump much, but it's just more insurance.

JonCR96Z
04-10-08, 02:52 PM
http://www.racetronix.com/product/RX-F-LS1-GSS340M-FPK/F98-FPWHt.jpg

That's a pic of the F-body one. So you get an idea of what I'm talking about. You could make this yourself if you wanted to.

Jon