: North* oil pan removal ELDO ETC



Jagboy69
05-24-04, 12:34 AM
Greetings, I have come across a wierd oil leak on my north*... It is not coming from the case so thats good news.. It is coming from the pan.. I removed all the pan bolts and sealed them with permatex thread sealant.... AND IT WORKED!!!!
BUt I have one bolt that you all know what I talking about.. How can I get that bolt out to seal it also?? I am being told by the dealer that it is NOT possible to remove the pan from the car unless the tranny comes out and the exhaust is dropped out of the way... Any ideas for this one??
many thanks.. Jason

Anthony Cipriano
05-25-04, 03:53 PM
The oil pan wont come off in the car. You have to pull the engine or transmission to remove the oil pan. The exhaust cross-under pipe goes between the engine and transmission and cannot be removed to allow the oil pan to come out unless the engine is out of the car or the trans is dropped clear of the car.

Jagboy69
05-25-04, 07:24 PM
Thanks for the reply... .This is pretty much what I was thinking...
Too bad cadillac wasnt thinking when they designed this:hmm:

Anthony Cipriano
05-25-04, 10:26 PM
Packaging a transverse DOHC 32 valve V8 with a heavy duty automatic transmission in a front wheel drive Cadillac surely required a lot of thinking. Most things work pretty well based on 12 years of production with them. The inability to remove the oil pan was likely an unfortunate compromise that had to be made to make the whole package work. Every design and product is a series of compromises and you hit on one of them in the FWD Cadillacs. Look at the bright side, it rarely needs to come off despite what you read online.

Jagboy69
05-25-04, 10:41 PM
I have sealed all my pan bolts with permatex thread sealant and it has stopped 95% of the oil leaks.... But there is that one Bastard bolt up in a corner that I cant get to.... thats the one that is leaking naturally:banghead:

growe3
05-25-04, 11:31 PM
I have sealed all my pan bolts with permatex thread sealant and it has stopped 95% of the oil leaks.... But there is that one Bastard bolt up in a corner that I cant get to.... thats the one that is leaking naturally:banghead:Use a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension about 8" long, and a 10 mm flex socket (not a flexible adapter) and you can get it.

-George

Jagboy69
05-26-04, 04:02 PM
George.. I got that bolt out... Next to the 10mm bolt is a larger 12-13mm bolt I cant get on.... this is the bolt that is leaking... (figures) got a clever plan to remove this one???:hmm:

growe3
05-27-04, 02:21 AM
George.. I got that bolt out... Next to the 10mm bolt is a larger 12-13mm bolt I cant get on.... this is the bolt that is leaking... (figures) got a clever plan to remove this one???:hmm:
I am not sure which bolt you are talking about, all of the oil pan bolts are tightened with a 10 mm socket. Can you describe this bolt location a little better?

-George

Jagboy69
05-27-04, 02:32 AM
Hey George... The bolt I am describing sits right next to one of the 10mm oil pan bolts... except it has a larger head... If memory serves me correctly it is on the aft side of the pan and sits in the recess.... It is next to the oil pan bolt that needs quarter drive stuff to get onto... hope this helps///
thanks..
Jason

growe3
05-27-04, 09:52 AM
Hi Jason,
There are 13 oil pan bolts, and they are all 6 mm diameter bolts with 10 mm hex head. If you have one of these that is larger it is not original, and as you know space is tight. Someone may have had the engine out in the past and stripped out the hole and screwed in a larger bolt to compensate. If that is the case I don't know if you will have room to remove an oversize bolt.

It may be that someone has used a 1/4" (6.4 mm) diameter bolt, in place of the original 6 mm diameter diameter bolt. Try using a 7/16" flex socket; again use a 1/4" drive ratchet to keep tool size to a minimum.

-George

jgr7
05-27-04, 10:48 AM
I'll have to look again ,but I too have at least 1 bolt in the same location with a larger head, and I know my engine has never been out or worked on.

Jeff

dallas5957
09-05-04, 07:14 PM
The bolt is a 15mm and is factory.

It looks to be a through bolt and is threaded into the crossover pipe bracket and that where I'm at.

Any ideas on how to get the bolt out? In the manuals and Alldata stated to remove the crossover pipe prior to engine removal.

Can this bracket be cut out and not replaced?

Or is it required to insure no exhaust leaks?

The reason going through this is I have a bad rod bearing

growe3
09-05-04, 07:27 PM
The bolt is a 15mm and is factory.

It looks to be a through bolt and is threaded into the crossover pipe bracket and that where I'm at.

Any ideas on how to get the bolt out? In the manuals and Alldata stated to remove the crossover pipe prior to engine removal.

Can this bracket be cut out and not replaced?

Or is it required to insure no exhaust leaks?

The reason going through this is I have a bad rod bearing

Not exactly sure what you are doing, but whether you are removing the engine from the top or the bottom, you leave the crossover exhaust pipe in place. After the engine is out you can remove it as required.

The exhaust flanges at the firewall will both need to be unbolted, prior to engine removal.

-George

dallas5957
09-05-04, 07:33 PM
Another post had stated you could remove the oil pan without the engine being removed and I gave up on that plan and I will be pulling the engine from the bottom.

On 93-94 the crossover runs all the way to the converter making top removal impossible with the crossover in place.

growe3
09-05-04, 07:49 PM
Another post had stated you could remove the oil pan without the engine being removed and I gave up on that plan and I will be pulling the engine from the bottom.

On 93-94 the crossover runs all the way to the converter making top removal impossible with the crossover in place.

If you are saying that you cannot remove the engine from the top, you are incorrect.

If you are saying that the crossover pipe runs all the way to the catalytic converter you are inncorrect. The crossover exhaust (from the front bank) stops at the firewall along with the exhaust flange from the rear bank.

I have done the complete headgasket repairs on both of my 93' STS's by removing the engines from both cars, from the top.

As noted you cannot remove the oil pan while the engine is in the car.

If you are going to undertake these repairs, the factory service manuals are an absolute must. These cars have many different techniques that make them unique. Trying to do major repairs without the proper service manuals is usually a diasaster. You will save money by purchasing a set, and not damaging your car/engine with the wrong knowledge.

There have been several people offering these sets for sale recently. Mine set cost $90 new and were worth every penny in saved time diagnosing and correctly repairing my car.

No flame intended here, just trying to make a correction.

-George