OK, I need some help with this one. I am driving along just fine when I come to a stop light. When I pull out of the light, I hear a small pop. About two miles later, the car stops pulling. The first thing I chexck is transmision fluid wich is about a pint and a half low. I fill that up, and still nothing. I can see the shifter cable moving the mechanism where the electronics are located at the top of the transmision. With the car in "N" I can push ti around. If I shift to drive or reverse, There is no moving it! I cant feel the transmission engage when moving the shifter. No current codes.

That "pop" meant something. Sounds internal from what you describe.

What do you mean when you say the car stops pulling? Does it stop accelerating, stop pulling to one side, what? When you put it into gear and give it gas after the pop, does the engine rev up or just groan?

It stopped accelerating. The engine will rev, but sounds like it is under a load.

Input but no output. Sounds like it is time for a visit to the tranny shop.

Could be a traction control problem. Traction control will limit the power of the engine if it thinks the wheels are slipping, thus making it sound as if it were under a load. This happens a lot when we dyno cars with traction control. If it thinks the wheels are slipping, it will just groan and not spin the tires.

When I got it home tonight after a 20 mile tow behind an S-10 Blazer I found what appears to be a vacum line next to the module plug that was loose. The line was split. I got it plugged in but not very well. It doesn't seem to make any difference. There are still no codes. I wonder if setting the DIC back to normal would make any difference? I have it set to show coolant temp and RPMs right now. It did not sound like there was any change in the engine sound when I shifted it tonight.

Disconnect the battery and let the car sit with no power overnight, just to reset all the computers and circuits. Repair that vacuum line (it may be used to tell engine load) and look for any other stray stuff under the hood. Try it again after it has sat for a few hours with no power.

That pop sound won't heal itself. It's time to call AAMCO Transmissions. beep beep.

I did notice the shifter lever is now out of sync. When I put it in gear, it appears to be 1/2 way over to the next selection.

how many miles are on it? that tranny of yours is probably gone, the 4t-60e transmission will run APPROX. a g-not for a BENCH build, so probably around 2 grand if u have the car towed there

lemme know if u decide to junk the old girl.... i need alot of parts :P

I'll let you know. I have had trannys go before, they always gave me a little warning. This one wasn't slipping or anything. The fluid is not burnt either. The body is a lttle rough, the interior is perfect and for 120000 the motor runs great. I am not sure what I am going to do yet.

Do you think it's just taking off in 2nd gear? Does it run ok in neutral? It could be a fuse. There is a fuse or two for the trans on the passenger side on the 93's, maybe 94 does too. They are pretty big so they might make a good pop when they pop.

It sounds to me like the rubber band broke.

It doesn't take off at all. It feels like the transmission is engageing the wheels, but not the engine.

It does sound serious to me. Before I would junk it, I would at least take the pan off it and look for something obviously out of place. An important bolt/screw may have fell out or the filter might have fell off or something. Good luck.

Ok... the tranny shifts through all the gears, right? Are you blowing out any smoke or losing fluid? It could be a lot of different things. Anything from a broken vacuum modulator to a busted converter to a snapped input shaft. Can you hook up a vacuum gauge and see if the tranny lines have any vacuum leaks.

If possible, take off the pan and filter and hopefully no metal in the pan. A reputable tranny shop can properly diagnose it better than we can. A popping sound is not good, but if the shifter indicator is now off, It could be something as simple as a linkage adjustment or a bad modulator.

It finally threw a code today. Torque convertor clutch engagement problem. That is what I thought, the transmision is not slipping, it's just not hooking up with the engine. I am trying to figure out where the vacum line originates that was loose. This may not mean anything, but the brake pedal was really hard for about 20 seconds when I started it today. After that it felt normal. I wonder if I have a vacum problem that is not letting the modulator work. Keep in mind that heard a pop, I didn't feel anything. I drove another 2 miles with no slippage or anything before the transmision disengaged.

sounds like you blew a vacuum hose, typically a trans doesnt DROP like that, usuaully it lets you know its ready to go, get yerself a can of carb cleaner and spray ALL of your vacuum lines, and listen for you rpms to change, locate, and Replace as needed.

Lithorian,
Anyone around your shop ever heard of one acting like this? Weather sucks in KY right now so I havent been able to do anything.

i havnt worked in that shop for a few months now, but here's where id start, 1:) how your driving habits? do you drive really hard? hard driving can wreck a tranny prematurely 2:) what is you vacuum at? should be at above 16 in. hg. if below suspect a vacuum leak, id check your vacuum modulator if this is the case 3:) whats the condition of your fluid? drop your pan and look for junk in the pan, save the old fluid just in case. 4:) your popping a Torque conveter code, your converter may be done. ill check my FSM when i get home tonight and see what else may cause your code. im at 150,000 and my tranny is JUST starting going out the door

That's not the TC. What your describing here is the torque management and abuse management kicking in.

Could be a traction control problem. Traction control will limit the power of the engine if it thinks the wheels are slipping, thus making it sound as if it were under a load. This happens a lot when we dyno cars with traction control. If it thinks the wheels are slipping, it will just groan and not spin the tires.

all right here we go.... FSM says: Condition, No Drive in Drive range - check oil leve, oil pressure, "A" Shift Solenoid or "TCC" (sounds like your problem), Foreward Servo assembly, 1/2 roller clutch, oil pump assembly, #3 Checkball, Torque converter, drive link assembly, input clutch assembly, input sprag and input sun gear assembly, input carrier and reaction carrier assembly, output shaft, foreward band assembly, parking pawl, final drive assembly or final drive sun gear shaft. in that order, i omitted things that obviuosly arent your pblem, but im willing to lay money its probably the "A" shift solenoid.

I suppose that's probably on the inside..........