: Self Install Headers......ahhahaha yea right!



AlmostAV
03-20-08, 05:52 PM
So Ive done some pretty mild installs (springs, coilovers, nitrous, exhast etc)
But trying to install the Kooks is near impossible for me. I have a few questions....

1. How the hell do you get the Spark Plug wires out? I tried for the life of me (and my hands are relatively small) to get the leverage to yank these out is impossible.
2. I cannot loosen the bolts from the cats to the exhaust, no leverage, they wouldnt budge.
3. I cannot access the front o2 sensors for the life of me. How did any of you get a tool, and your hands down there to do so?
4. I cannot locate the steering shaft bolt

Yes I have seen the faq - which doesnt really explain how to get the spark plug wires out. Do you even have to remove them? Or could I take the stock exhaust manifolds off, then remove them?

Im worried I wont be able to do this install, and cannot afford 500 for a mechanic to install them.

Are there any V owners in South Georgia, or North Florida that could help with this process. Beer and food would be on me, plus any other goodies we may need :shhh:

SkullV
03-20-08, 05:58 PM
You just have to pull really hard....if you are gonna get new wires just tug on the wires until they come loose, otherwise go to autozone and rent a spark plug boot puller (its free) Spray some PB penetrator on EVERYTHING wait an hour then spray it again right before you loosten them. You need a crowsfoot o2 sensor tool to get the front 02's out.

heavymetals
03-20-08, 05:58 PM
If you can't pull a sparkplug wire free, I wouldn't go any further.

Yes, you will have to remove them.

Don't yank, but gradually pull hard.

The passenger rear (#7) is a bitch.

You may have to remove the battery and prepare for about 15 minutes of total exasperatiion trying to reinstall the dipstick.

SkullV
03-20-08, 06:03 PM
You may have to remove the battery and prepare for about 15 minutes of total exasperatiion trying to reinstall the dipstick.

Dipstick takes about 30 seconds. Just look where it comes out from before you pull it and it will take you about 30 seconds to put it back by guiding it with a LONG screwdriver! I never thought about removing the battery that would have made things MUCH easier!

AlmostAV
03-20-08, 06:04 PM
If you can't pull a sparkplug wire free, I wouldn't go any further.

Why is that? Everything else seems really straightforward. I didnt realize there was a tool to pull these out. I wish the Faq had mentioned that. Regardless, I put it all back together, and Im gonna try again tomorrow once I get the right equipment.

heavymetals
03-20-08, 06:08 PM
You don't need a special tool.

Just some GRUNT.

(keep some bandages nearby when you scrape the crap out of your knuckles when it lets go)

You need to remove the sparkplugs also.

Use penetrating oil on the catbolts and 02 sensor.

You may need to use a pipe wrench or Vise grips on that sucker to get it free.

Also, I suggest that you get them loose while the headers are still on the car as it is a real adventure in Mod Hell trying to remove the 02's once the headers are off the car.

SkullV
03-20-08, 06:11 PM
Why is that? Everything else seems really straightforward. I didnt realize there was a tool to pull these out. I wish the Faq had mentioned that. Regardless, I put it all back together, and Im gonna try again tomorrow once I get the right equipment.

It took me about 6 hours to install. I did have a LITTLE help from my friend who is an ASE certified Ford tech...but he was HAMMERED of the beer I promised him for helping...so help was minimal....

The Tony Show
03-20-08, 06:16 PM
I agree with Heavy on this one- get somebody to install them for you. Without the proper assistance you're probably going to break a spark plug, lose the dipstick hole, Munson up a gasket....something.

Install shouldn't be $500- find an independent garage run by some good ole' boys and they should do it for $200 tops.

NormV
03-20-08, 06:26 PM
Lol! I am laughing with you as I just finished my 1 3/4" install.

What are you mating the headers too exhaust wise?

You'll need a tall set of jack stands(Mallett doesn't use a lifts!), can of PBlaster for the rusty exhaust bolts and a breaker bar, triple layer cardboard from China(this stuff is the best on a 40F garage floor), and some long skinny screw drivers. Some type of mechanics gloves will help if you have Palmolive hands like mine.

I unattached the metal bracket for the coil packs first(after disconnecting the battery) and gently twist and pull each plug wire off leaving it attached to the sparkplug. Then remove the oil dip stick bolt and remove the dipstick and tube(when reinstalling the dipstick tube it is best to not have the dipstick sticking out as you'll never get it in by yourself without a 2nd set of eyes). Passenger side is the tightest in removing and reinstalling plug wires. Grasp as close to the sparkplug and pull out in a circlular motion. Be very gentle if your not changing plugs as they will break. If your foun sparkplugs too it is easiest to take them out before dropping the stock header down as the are easy to break. I left mine in and did not break any through the whole process.

I would PBlast the exhaust bolts the night before or at least a few hours you attempt to remove. Use a breaker bar to break them loose.

For the 02 sensors I reach in with the easiest hand to get in there and pull on the tab holding the connection and use the long flat head screw driver to separate them. I installed used headers and did not have 02 extensions so I took the 02 sensors off their mounting area on the engine. Made it easier over all.

The steering column has two bolts, remove them both and you'll see how the shaft slides.

The headers slide right in when installing but you may have to raise one side of the car to remove stock header as they are long. As I mentioned I kept sparkplugs in and used a hydralic jack underneath the stock header to hold it while I was removing the header bolts.

Norm

thebigjimsho
07-20-08, 01:41 AM
I'm planning to spend my spare time this week to install the B&B headers Rick is sending me. With no deadline, I should keep the stress level low.

Since my V has 53k miles on it, think I should replace the plugs? And what are the thoughts on Cool Socks? New wires? Any tips?

Naf
07-20-08, 05:39 AM
I'm planning to spend my spare time this week to install the B&B headers Rick is sending me. With no deadline, I should keep the stress level low.

Since my V has 53k miles on it, think I should replace the plugs? And what are the thoughts on Cool Socks? New wires? Any tips?

YUP YUP YUP!!!!!

DEI Boot covers i got Black
Moroso Ultra 40s
Bosch Fusions

Hand them over to the dealer and let them reck their hands and install the little buggers...

Trust me # 7 and # 8 are serious pains to get to and insure proper fitment...I tried to do the wire set only and man i scratched my hands bad...

Hell do it durin a major service and they cant wack you for the extra charges...

rand49er
07-20-08, 07:06 AM
Bigjim, those plugs are suppose to go 100K+. With unleaded fuel, I'd bet they're still in pretty good shape. Same for the wires. Personally, I wouldn't do either. That said, if you've got extra bucks laying around, now would be a good time due to having them out anyway. Regardless, be sure to use antiseize on everything.

Cool socks are another thing ... that I'd do. Not being stressed for time will allow you to carefully button up all the wires and harnesses as you go.

As has been said, getting those spark plug boots back on a couple of those plugs is a PITA. I could barely hold the boot while straining to pop them back on. Difficult to get the necessary leverage.

Bandaids? Make sure you have a bunch of them. My forearms looked like I'd had them in a blender for a few hours when I got done.

Be careful with that dipstick tube and enjoy the sound! Good luck! :thumbsup:

NormV
07-20-08, 08:24 AM
I'm planning to spend my spare time this week to install the B&B headers Rick is sending me. With no deadline, I should keep the stress level low.

Since my V has 53k miles on it, think I should replace the plugs? And what are the thoughts on Cool Socks? New wires? Any tips?

Plugs should be fine. You might want to pull them, regap, and retorque. I wouldn't waste money on the boots as you can turn the spark plug wire slightly to avoid manifold contact. Four track days and about 15K miles with no problems using the old stock manifolds gaskets. I would buy a pair of mechanics gloves to protect your "Palmolive" hands, Jim. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bEkq7JCbik

Norm

CTSV_Rob
07-20-08, 03:08 PM
I know I'm probably going to get flamed for this but I really liked the ARP studs even though they were a bit pricey. Made it much easier to install the headers because you need to fish them in from the bottom to install them.

With the Studs in you can slide the gaskets onto the studs and then from the bottom you can easily work them up into the engine compartment and slide them onto the studs. Then you just go back to the top and tighten the nuts down.

If you do go this way be careful not to drop the nuts. Hard to find those 12 pointers and if you do they will be expensive. I dropped one and it took me about 20 minutes to find it. Worst part of the installation for me. :D

CTSV_Rob
07-20-08, 03:10 PM
Oh yeah, and I found a cool spark plug wire puller at Napa. Makes it a lot easier to get the boots off of the spark plug for the first time. When you put them back on I would recommend a little Dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boot to keep them from vulcanizing to the plug again.

thebigjimsho
07-21-08, 10:58 PM
I know I'm probably going to get flamed for this but I really liked the ARP studs even though they were a bit pricey. Made it much easier to install the headers because you need to fish them in from the bottom to install them.

With the Studs in you can slide the gaskets onto the studs and then from the bottom you can easily work them up into the engine compartment and slide them onto the studs. Then you just go back to the top and tighten the nuts down.

If you do go this way be careful not to drop the nuts. Hard to find those 12 pointers and if you do they will be expensive. I dropped one and it took me about 20 minutes to find it. Worst part of the installation for me. :DJust ordered the stud kit and wire boots from Jegs. Just got to see if Rick can get me a tune this week...

StealthV
07-21-08, 11:18 PM
Traveling on business this week. Will be home all next week and then gone again for two weeks so the window is only open for a short bit.

Both headers have extra wideband O2 ports and I think only one has a plug - Either get another stainless plug or use an old lawnmower sparkplug. :)

Gut that cat.

:)

thebigjimsho
07-22-08, 01:34 AM
Where can I get a stainless plug locally?

SkullV
07-22-08, 01:39 AM
Where can I get a stainless plug locally?

Any exhaust shop should have plugs. Every time they get new cats in they have plugs in them. Usually the shops keep the plugs and are willing to part with them for free.

JonCR96Z
07-22-08, 03:09 AM
Since my V has 53k miles on it, think I should replace the plugs? And what are the thoughts on Cool Socks? New wires? Any tips?


Just ordered the stud kit and wire boots from Jegs. Just got to see if Rick can get me a tune this week...

The stud kit makes it much easier. Though my passenger side header didn't want to fit to well with them in place, took some muscle.

It won't hurt to replace the plugs, get the NGK TR55(GP) from Advance. Cool socks aren't needed plugs don't get that close to the headers if installed properly.

If you get new wire just get new wires from the dealer. Are the factory wires red? Someone said the LS2 wires were better so I went to the chevy dealership and told them I needed wires for a newer Vette. They were red and I can't remember what color the stock ones were. I had bought some Taylor wires and they were too long and the boots kept coming off. Needless to say the LS2 wires were much better. They snapped in place better and were the right length.

Jon

ewill3rd
07-22-08, 06:53 AM
Take the coil assemblies off.
The plug wires, I use loooooooooong needle nose pliers to grab the metal sleeve on the boot, then lever against the head and they'll pop off. GM used to make a "pickle fork" tool that worked great, now I don't know where to get one.
Remove the dipstick tube.
You can do it without removing the plugs but you have to be very careful or you'll crack them or break them off.
Leave the O2 sensors right where they are until you get the cats off. Just unhook the electrical connections and take the cats out.

In fact, I usually leave the cats attached to the headers when they come out. It is nightmarish to try to remove the flange bolts without impact tools and even then you need the right setup and a really good gun to break them loose.
I put a bungee accross the bottom to hold the headers up in place while I put the bolts in, lining up the gasket and headers is a pain, you could stud them if you want.

Use "blue" (medium strength) loctite on the bolts and torque to 18 lb. ft. if you have a torque wrench. Start from the middle and work your way out when tightening.
Clearance under the car is good if you can get some, jackstands all the way around (if you have them) and creeper would be helpful.

Make sure you have some GM gaskets to use, the ones in the kit will take a while to leak, but they will.

NormV
07-22-08, 10:25 AM
...In fact, I usually leave the cats attached to the headers when they come out. It is nightmarish to try to remove the flange bolts without impact tools and even then you need the right setup and a really good gun to break them loose...


If you don't have an impact a can of PBlaster and a breaker bar with on O2 sensor rented from the autoparts work well. :)

Norm

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 12:35 AM
Yesterday, I got the coils, wires, plugs and some of the header bolts off. it's the little things, like trying to get at a hard spot, that add up on time. Spent this afternoon taking off the exhaust, finishing the teardown and removal of the factory headers and installing the replacement UUC.

Tomorrow I'll be trying to get everything installed. Glad now that I got the ARP studs. I also got NGK TR5ix Iridium plugs.

Forearms are sore and bruised. Knuckles are scraped. Fingers are swollen. Tempers are flared. I just want it done. Then I need Rick to send back my PCM. He sent me resonator pipes to install but my B&B X-pipe already has them. Think I should install those cones B&B sent with the exhausts to cut down on drone now that headers w/out cats are going on?

JonCR96Z
07-30-08, 01:05 AM
Write up with pics?

StealthV
07-30-08, 01:06 AM
Just say no to cones.

You're already B&B tone deaf below 20 Hz, headers won't matter. :)

StealthV
07-30-08, 01:08 AM
Write up with pics?

Yep.

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 01:13 AM
Write up with pics?Rick's is fine on the FAQ.

Except steps as disconnecting the front O2 sensors seem sooo easy in a picture. When it takes an hour to disconnect the O2s to get the headers out, it feels like those pictures are taunting you.

I would not have the patience to take pics as I went so kudos to Rick for doing it already...

StealthV
07-30-08, 01:20 AM
And they are the exact same headers. :)

Unplugging O2 sensors is easy after you've done them many times.

Stock, headers, stock, headers, stock < All in under 3 years.

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 01:25 AM
And they are the exact same headers. :)

Unplugging O2 sensors is easy after you've done them many times.

Stock, headers, stock, headers, stock < All in under 3 years.True. I had gasket problems on my SHO and I had to change the plugs maybe 7-8 times before figuring out the problem. The rear banks were a PITA but it became a 1/2 hour piece of cake after a few times...

JonCR96Z
07-30-08, 01:26 AM
And they are the exact same headers. :)

Unplugging O2 sensors is easy after you've done them many times.

Stock, headers, stock, headers, stock < All in under 3 years.

He should do one and then you guys can compare.

The Tony Show
07-30-08, 09:36 AM
Skip the cones Jim- my exhaust actually drones less after the Kooks install.

JonCR96Z
07-30-08, 11:43 AM
:dronecones:

CTSV_Rob
07-30-08, 11:45 AM
No Cones on my B&B with Headers and it sounds great, no drone for me. I do have the resonator instead of the X-pipe though.

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 12:49 PM
I don't know why I didn't order the Percy's gaskets when I got the studs but I didn't. Should I use the original gaskets or what I think or the B&B graphite gaskets? Or should I do some phone work and find some better ones?

The Tony Show
07-30-08, 12:55 PM
Order a set of OEM gaskets from a Dealer- they're dirt cheap, and seal better than either of the Percy's I tried. Smear some Copper gasket compound on them and torque down from the center out at 18 ft/lbs.

The Tony Show
07-30-08, 12:57 PM
Also be sure that the gaskets are installed right side up- the bolt holes look like they could only line up one way, but it's actually possible to install them upside down and still have the holes all line up.

Not that I would do something like that, but I heard that it's possible. From, like.......a guy I know. Or something.

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 01:23 PM
I've got to pick up my check from the office and there's a Chevy dealer nearby and they've got a set. Copper gasket compound, eh? Is that at any auto parts store or hardware store?

rand49er
07-30-08, 01:38 PM
... Forearms are sore and bruised. Knuckles are scraped. Fingers are swollen. ...Sounds like me when I was finished.

Your arms a bigger than mine, and you're only at the halfway point ... wait till you get done! :helpless:

The Tony Show
07-30-08, 01:43 PM
I've got to pick up my check from the office and there's a Chevy dealer nearby and they've got a set. Copper gasket compound, eh? Is that at any auto parts store or hardware store?

I had my Parts dept get me some delivered, so I'm not sure. Most likely available at Carquest, NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.

CTSV_510
07-30-08, 01:53 PM
I've got to pick up my check from the office and there's a Chevy dealer nearby and they've got a set. Copper gasket compound, eh? Is that at any auto parts store or hardware store?

Who doesn't use direct deposit these days??

JonCR96Z
07-30-08, 01:55 PM
Who doesn't use direct deposit these days??

The company I work for says its too much trouble. :crying2:

CTSV_510
07-30-08, 02:03 PM
The company I work for says its too much trouble. :crying2:

Tell them to call me, I'll hook them up. I'm the operations manager and a partner at my company. All we do is payroll processing, including direct deposit.

Civardi
07-30-08, 02:36 PM
I work for a bank and I dont think they give any other option.

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 02:52 PM
Well, I am my own little Corp. Although, I think it's still available. I don't know, I like the feeling of having a check in hand, or cash money, and depositing it myself. Besides, I'm never in a hurry to get the money anyway...

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 05:59 PM
I had my Parts dept get me some delivered, so I'm not sure. Most likely available at Carquest, NAPA, Pep Boys, etc.I'm assuming you're talking about Ultra-Copper High Temp RTV Silicone...I bought some even though I figured I already had it...

The Tony Show
07-30-08, 06:14 PM
It's actually called "Copper gasket compound"- it comes in a little tin with a brush applicator inside the cap, just like the purple PVC pipe joint glue. I don't know if silicone will hold up to the heat.

StealthV
07-30-08, 06:21 PM
You should be fine with new stock gaskets, studs and anal multi-checking of the torque from center out of the flanges.

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 06:23 PM
OK! At least I have this stuff now. For whatever. Got the PCM today. Thanks Rick!

thebigjimsho
07-30-08, 11:58 PM
How close can the spark plug boot and metal shield get to the header? A couple are close. The boot covers I got were too long and I need to get shorter ones. But I'd like to drive this beast in the meantime.

I just have the battery, dipstick, exhaust and PCM to get back together. Add an oil change and hopefully I'll be rollin' tonight...

JonCR96Z
07-31-08, 12:03 AM
You can trash the shields if you want, but I'd say 1/4" or more should be good. If your gonna get new ones anyway then who cares if it melts 'em a little.

JonCR96Z
07-31-08, 12:04 AM
What wires are you using?

thebigjimsho
07-31-08, 06:06 AM
It has been accomplished. I actually got it done around 4 this morning. I don't know how many total hours it took but I'd guess around 10. It's really the stuff that takes patience that doubles the time.

Stuff like reaching the back of the bay to get off the wires and plugs, reinstalling the exhaust, reinstalling the dipstick that just sap up the day.

What surprised me was how easy it was to put everything back together. Taking things apart with the big, bulky stock headers was difficult because of the lack of space. With the B&B headers, it was easy to bolt on with the stud kit, the O2 sensors were easy to reattach and plugs were easier to reinstall as well.

Taking out the battery doesn't give you a ton of extra leverage because of the brackets but it is a lot less claustrophobic with it out. Something that would be of monumental help is if you could prop the hood back and take out the hood strut. That strut out of the way would've been a big help.

Make sure you check things thoroughly before starting. I didn't do enough research on gaskets and had to get a set today. The ones I had were the graphite ones but I should've had the OEM or Percy's at the ready. And make sure your spark plugs are good. I got a set of NGK TR5ix and 2 had broken tips. So I had to reuse the Delcos on the rear bank of cylinders. With the clearance of the new headers, I should be able to change the plugs from underneath. And I also failed to check if I had bolts to connect the headers to the B&B catback. That took some time to find.

Overall, the job wasn't too difficult and one that many can handle if they have some experience at mechanics. But I didn't like a lot of it. And I wish I worked the past couple days and made more than enough money to cover the cost of a professional to do it. But I feel very good in doing it myself now that it's done.

And the V sounds great. And it leaps off the line. I really like the sound. And it's actually not too loud at all. Basically what I've got is B&B 1 3/4" headers with gutted cats and a B&B X-pipe with resonator pipes. It has a great rumble without the shreaking bark of say...Kooks and Corsa.

Of course, as soon as I was buttoning up the V, it started raining so I don't have a good foot into it yet...

thebigjimsho
07-31-08, 06:09 AM
What wires are you using?I reused what I had...

rand49er
07-31-08, 07:53 AM
It does indeed "feel good" to do it yourself.

Congrats, bigjim!!! :highfive:

The Tony Show
07-31-08, 09:13 AM
It's aliiiiiiiiiivvvvvvvvvve!!!!!!

Congrats on the completion, Jim! Consider the light scarring on your forearms and knuckles "modding merit badges". :D

CTSV_510
07-31-08, 11:49 AM
Nice work Jim. I suckered out and paid a shop to install mine.

Post back when you've had time to lay that foot down!

smoothq
07-31-08, 12:22 PM
ya great job, It does feel good to get it done yourself plus you know that tightend every bolt on your job and you know its done right. Sometimes you can have a hard time trusting somebody to do your work.

thebigjimsho
07-31-08, 01:30 PM
Thanks guys! Yeah, I do have peace of mind knowing header issues and what to look for. It took me a few extra minutes to get the courage to start it up and once I did, I was really proud.

Like I said before, I feel good. I just don't want to do it again...

rand49er
07-31-08, 01:47 PM
... I just don't want to do it again...Funny you should feel the way I did ... and still do!

When I realized I'd have to take one side off to install the UUC flywheel, the flywheel went up for sale. :cool:

smoothq
07-31-08, 04:53 PM
I tried looking everywhere and no luck on finding any pictures on a step by step install on the headers. Maybe someone can send me a link. It would be much appreciated.

StealthV
07-31-08, 06:36 PM
Linkaroo (http://www.stealthv.com/headers.htm)

CTSV_Rob
07-31-08, 10:05 PM
Good job Jim. I will need to put my stockers back on if I cannot find someone to "smog" it for me with the NON CARB OE headers.


Funny you should feel the way I did ... and still do!

When I realized I'd have to take one side off to install the UUC flywheel, the flywheel went up for sale. :cool:
If you're afraid to pull off a header you shouldn't even think about pulling the transmission. The header removal is by far the easiest part of that swap and I did it with both removed.

If you plan to keep the V1 you must get a lightened flywheel. I may say I wouldn't install another myself but I would have a shop do it :D

Sounds like a good job for the dealer to try and salvage some of my warranty. I am thinking about a stronger clutch so the UUC at some point will be coming out.

UnsafeAtAnySpd
08-01-08, 11:17 PM
I just started my Kooks install earlier this evening. No joke on the spark plug boots being hard. Granted my car has 76k and I doubt they've ever been changed or anything. Anyway, I guess I'm now getting new wires too. Broke one (had to give up on pulling just on the boots themselves. Even still, I've only managed to get two off. Ugh...wish me luck...

The worst thing is the my Talon is sitting next to my V in the garage with it's hood up. I swear the plugs and wires on it are mocking me...
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg149/UnsafeAtAnySpd/052.jpg

CTSV_510
08-01-08, 11:32 PM
You're supposed to make sure you have cadillacforums.com on your computer if you ever get it in a picture. :doh:

UnsafeAtAnySpd
08-01-08, 11:43 PM
You're supposed to make sure you have cadillacforums.com on your computer if you ever get it in a picture. :doh:

LOL. Oh damn. I didn't even notice the computer in the picture. Good thing it wasn't some crazy wierd pr0n or something. :alchi:

Edit: Didn't know there was a word filter. Cool. Pics isn't pics btw.

thebigjimsho
08-03-08, 09:40 PM
Well, I certainly have had time to get into it. I love how I can get "ignant" with everyone now checking out the Caddy. People sometimes would notice my B&B catback. Everyone stares at the V now. The best is the old ladies in a V6 CTS looking puzzled at the V, not really knowing why mine sounds like it does...

As for power, it definitely leaps off the line now. Midrange power also seems very good. I just wonder if the power increase tails off near redline. It's hard to notice extra power under high rpms. But it's still pretty new to me so I need to do more evaluations...

JonCR96Z
08-03-08, 11:39 PM
If anything you should have more power up top than down low. Better exhaust usually also helps carry the power a little farther in the rpms. Have you ever dynoed the car?

rand49er
08-04-08, 06:24 AM
If anything you should have more power up top than down low. Better exhaust usually also helps carry the power a little farther in the rpms. ...:yeah:

thebigjimsho
08-04-08, 11:02 PM
I checked the header bolts again tonight. Started it up and checked all around. Looks like I do indeed have a leak at the flange between the headers and catback. I'll have to get under there and finagle that.

thebigjimsho
08-14-08, 01:21 PM
I replaced those 2 rear plugs and addressed a leak at the catback connector and have got a few thousand miles on the V. Runs great and does indeed pull all the way to redline. And I just noticed the shift light Rick programs in. I love it!

heavymetals
08-14-08, 06:32 PM
I checked the header bolts again tonight. Started it up and checked all around. Looks like I do indeed have a leak at the flange between the headers and catback. I'll have to get under there and finagle that.

I just got done cleaning my car from working at a job site in San Diego.

Looked down and I am missing one of my nice ARP stainless 12 point (header mounting) nuts and the washer also (of course!).
:banghead:

The rub here is that I put a dab of glue on the stud tip and nut to prevent that (guess that didn't work on that one!).

DOH!

The others are fine and still there.

Anyone else need replacements (I bought another set!) let me know.

The K&N air filter was DIRTY as hell also.

UnsafeAtAnySpd
08-26-08, 11:06 PM
I forgot to post a follow up. I did end up finishing my install once the plugs and wires came in. I hate to make butt dyno claims, but it does seem to pull harder. It does sound quite badass too IMO.

Another problem I ran into along the way was removing one of the rear O2s. I soaked that thing in liquid wrench while I was waiting for the wires. I still couldn't get it off. The other three came off fine. I eventually gave up on it and just pulled one off of my parts car. That was handy! :)

This gives somewhat of an idea what the finished product sounds like:
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg149/UnsafeAtAnySpd/th_e3d3e0cb.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg149/UnsafeAtAnySpd/?action=view&current=e3d3e0cb.pbr)