I have a dilema with my caddy:

I recently tried to go on a trip and the temp gauge started creeping up and only seems to do that on a hill. Driving around town it is fine. Took it in and after a couple of flushes, they said that it is most likely the rad that is clogged or plugged.

A short solution, they took the thermostat out and said I will most likely need a new rad.

Any ideas and what should it cost to replace the radiator (new or recond)?

Help!

Depends on the shop. The radiator requires a bit of disconnecting and moving of parts, pipes, fans and wiring. It's pretty labor intensive. Make sure the thermostat gets replaced: your engine is designed to run at around 206 degrees. 12 o'clock on the gauge.

Have the shop do a test for exhaust gas in the coolant.

Find a radiator online or at a local parts house. That will give you an idea of that price, BUT, a shop will charge list, not online price, and if you take them your new radiator, their labor will make up the difference.........

I think you need a second opinion, I have no idea how they could tell the radiator was bad by looking at the thermostat. Here's what you can do.

Have the system pressure tested to rule out any external leaks.

Tell them to check the purge line to make sure it isn't clogged or just search the forum for how.

Usually overheating up a hill is one of the early signs of a failing headgasket. BEFORE you go down the expensive road of replacing the rad,thermostat,water pump, and every thing else in the system, get a cylinder leak test to completely rule out a headgasket. Exhaust gas tests are good, but they aren't always accurate in the early stages of hg failure, especially if you have recently flushed the coolant

Just ordered one not 30 minutes ago from these people. Very nice and helpful.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=1586+9838+4294967269+6887

Bill

Check out this thread from the deville section.

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/133393-help-my-mechanic-stumped.html

The head gasket was just done about 3 months ago and has been running fine.



I think you need a second opinion, I have no idea how they could tell the radiator was bad by looking at the thermostat. Here's what you can do.

Have the system pressure tested to rule out any external leaks.

Tell them to check the purge line to make sure it isn't clogged or just search the forum for how.

Usually overheating up a hill is one of the early signs of a failing headgasket. BEFORE you go down the expensive road of replacing the rad,thermostat,water pump, and every thing else in the system, get a cylinder leak test to completely rule out a headgasket. Exhaust gas tests are good, but they aren't always accurate in the early stages of hg failure, especially if you have recently flushed the coolant

they should not have removed the thermostat under any condition and let you drive around on it. I wonder if they put the bars leak in and if so if they put the full pellets in or ground them up first (this helps the waterpump chew them up and you won't get 'chunking'). Also, I wonder if they properly bled the coolant system, it's actually a bit harder to do than you might expect and can take quite a while, I've found it can take 5 min w/the cap off at idle to get to temp, and another 2-5 minutes of gentle reving as per the FSM to get ALL the air out, in fact the last time I bled the system it took 10 or more minutes even though the FSM made it seem like after the first set of bubbles or two you're done, you most likely are not. I had a 3rd and decidely huge release a few minutes after the first 2, after this it was good. I too had minor fluctuations prior to this...

Would it be best to take to a rad shop or the dealer to have the radiator looked at properly?

Thanks!


they should not have removed the thermostat under any condition and let you drive around on it. I wonder if they put the bars leak in and if so if they put the full pellets in or ground them up first (this helps the waterpump chew them up and you won't get 'chunking'). Also, I wonder if they properly bled the coolant system, it's actually a bit harder to do than you might expect and can take quite a while, I've found it can take 5 min w/the cap off at idle to get to temp, and another 2-5 minutes of gentle reving as per the FSM to get ALL the air out, in fact the last time I bled the system it took 10 or more minutes even though the FSM made it seem like after the first set of bubbles or two you're done, you most likely are not. I had a 3rd and decidely huge release a few minutes after the first 2, after this it was good. I too had minor fluctuations prior to this...

I would try a dealer, they know northstars much better than most independent shops. Interesting about the hg's did you have the block timeserted? And have both hg's done?

The head gasket was just done about 3 months ago and has been running fine.


This would make me want to test it for headgasket failure even more. A lot of times the head bolts will pull out causing the headgaskets to leak again. Have it tested. If it was done so recently the work is probably under warrantee and that would make it cheaper than replacing the rad.

This would make me want to test it for headgasket failure even more. A lot of times the head bolts will pull out causing the headgaskets to leak again. Have it tested. If it was done so recently the work is probably under warrantee and that would make it cheaper than replacing the rad.

Yes listen to him kelona!

It would seem that the radiator has packed it in and I was quoted $200 plus 2.2 hours of labour to install. Total Cost is $439.00 including taxes. Went to the Auto wreckers and was quoted $125.00 for a used one with 148K on it.

Does this sound right?

Thanks

wow $239 to install? <==Why I love the fact that I can do it myself..... The prices and time seem right. It is a tricky bugger to r&r. You have to remove a lot of other stuff to get it out.

You did get it tested for headgaskets I'm assuming?

Buy a new one - especially since the head gaskets went