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So I got my broken exhaust bolts fixed

2K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  cadydaddy 
#1 ·
I had a horrible exhaust leak, and I swear a marked drop in power, and I took it to my mechanic and turns out 5 of the bolts were broke and 3 had to be drilled out, one, the pass. side rear one was really bad I guess. re threaded.

It is whisper quiet now again and has its power back. $300 does not seem out of line for how long it took and how hard it looked to do!

Found out why my steering is loose to, I guess I need these items for the car........

Idler arm, pitman arm, and center link. that should tighten up the steering id say lol.

also has a lil rear wheel cly leak I want to take care of. and other then that its tip top.
 
#4 ·
Yes...maybe you missed that it's a VERY (well, almost every one of them gets it) common with the '94-96 LT1's (and maybe other years with different models that used the engine). A side effect of either improper grade bolts, them being too long, torqued too much, or...it's never been 100% nailed down.

cadydaddy - GREAT. This is a common thing, and one that gives people plenty of headaches with trying to figure out how best to fix it. Now that yours has been, WOOF, issue eliminated...and cheaply;)
 
#5 ·
This morning my LOW COOLANT light was on, so after work I added distilled water and it was indeed close to half a gallon low.

well I toped it off and the stupid light is staying on!!

I have checked it and its still full but light is still on, is there a way to rid myself of this light?

Batt disconnect? or is there a way like there is for the change oil light, pressing gas 3 times?

HELP lol I hate lights.
 
#6 ·
Never mind LT1, super common problem on the L05 version too. Especially the front of the left bank.
 
#7 ·
Mine has a couple broken, once warmed up it is fine. My 96 Suburban 350 had one broke too. $300? Where's your mech! Mine, second to most rear left side, and front left. That rear one is the one that needs to be addressed....

As for low coolant light, the sensor is in the side resovoir. If the ball/float thingie got stuck, you might need to tap it physically. Very easy to pull the tank off if you need to work on it, loosen the 2 bolts towards the front of the car and remove the rear one and it comes right up. As long as the cap stays on, it won't leak.
 
#8 ·
Yep, like NODIH states, your float is likely stuck, and it is also a very common problem with the LT1 cars. The best fix that I have found (works every time for me) is to make sure the reservoir is full, then cap it. Have the car running (note the light is on). Make a fist, and hit the reservoir HARD with the side (fleshy part) of your fist. You may have to pound on it a few times. Don't worry about hurting the car - you will hurt your hand first. After you have had fun fixing your car by smacking it, go check the instruments... your light will be out.:cool2:
 
#9 ·
You should get better gas mileage now too.

Just get a wrench and tap the coolant reservoir, your light will go off :thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
To be honest I am not sure where my mechanic got them, but he said It wont do that again.
As for the price, yeah he is super cheap and has always gave everyone I know and anyone else realy, a Great deal on stuff.

He did the heater core in my old 95 mustang for like 325 and its a 1000 dollar job at the dealer because the dash has to come out!!!

I will Mike Tyson my radiator resivor and get back to everyone on that haha.

Thanks all.
 
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