: B&B Headers for DDriver...Yes or NO Help

03-01-08, 01:37 PM
I have read every header thread. I think I want headers but don't want issues with leaks, cooked wires and brake lines. Do I get them Jet Hott Coated? How many did their own install? I have access to a lift and help. Also this is a daily driver. I need to occaisonally bring clients in my car. I have the B&B 2.5 touring and would switch out the resonator for the 3" Res and HF Cats. I also don't want to loose too much midrange and only enjoy it at redline. Will I instantly notice the power difference? Volant and StealthV Tune are only other mods. I don't have alot of time to keep tinkering with it once it gets done, so what Head/Header gaskets does everyone like. Thanks for the info, sorry so long.

Please give me a Yes or No and any thoughts or experiences.

03-01-08, 01:54 PM
did my own
no cooked wires
good clearance w/ steering shaft and spark plugs
no coating
will need new stealthv tune for headers
special heavymetals gaskets w/ orange rtv
very loud
install writeup in FAQ

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03-01-08, 02:10 PM
I am about to install Kooks headers on my daily driver. I have the magnaflow cat-back, but I am also not worried so much about the noise. I will be using Percy's Dead-Soft gaskets for the header flange and the collector flange.

03-01-08, 02:24 PM
I have a few copper gaskets left.

PM me.

A lot of pennies gave their lives for these!

03-01-08, 02:28 PM
what kind of gaskets does kooks come with? Do I need to get copper or after market gaskets?

03-01-08, 08:56 PM
According to Luke, even kooks admits that their gaskets are flimsy. I have had really good experience with the Percy's gaskets that I described earlier.

03-01-08, 09:16 PM
Here is my BB header and exhaust experience.
1. Headers would not clear steering rack and had to be dented to fit. I am not the only one.
2. Use Heavymetals copper gaskets with sealer to get good seal on collectors and rear exhaust joints if you have BB exhaust.
3. Use LS1 factory exhaust manifold gaskets
4. Use Taylor 10.4 mm wires look and work good.
5. Make sure the brake lines are relocated as mine rubbed through and I had to have the hard brake lines replaced.
6. BB catback, resonitator and added 2 - 3" inline mufflers i got off ebay.
7. Welded all slip clamp joints in BB exhaust
8. Dyno, Predator, or stealthv tune for headers. I did the predator and went to their message board and one of the moderators did a custom tune for me.

I now have a leak free system that barely drones at 1500 rpm.

03-01-08, 10:17 PM
Since I am getting some pm's here is the info:

The gaskets are machined from 1/8 inch thick solid copper.


You can re-use by applying the "Harley method " by heating them red hot on a stove and then dunking in water.

Makes them soft again as it is the heat cycles from the exhaust that makes them "harden".

I found that using these and PERMATEX high temp copper silicone sealant makes a pretty leakfree setup.

You will not blow out the gasket.

03-01-08, 10:28 PM
Installed Headers Myself, No leaks, no hammering they cleared perfectly,

Used the gaskets and the studs in the faq (Studs work good an d look awesome).

Tune is a must, I was happy with Ricks. (StealthV)

Resonator with the High flow cats sounds sweet.

Good luck you will not regret the installation!

03-01-08, 11:21 PM
Got mine installed at a local shop for $350 CDN including taxes. No issues over 3000kms so far and I have to get a tune. I bought my TPIS Headers with highflow cats from ebay for $850 shipped. As far as I know there i no power loss off the line and mid-range/Redline power is just nuts. One issue you may have is u might not be able to put the power to the wheels...lol...wheel hop will kill u...too much power man

but then again, I have cold air intake, headers, highflow cats and magnaflow exhaust with x-pipe

03-01-08, 11:26 PM
You need a maggie Rob....:thepan:

03-01-08, 11:33 PM
I know, holding out for the Gen 6.

Just got 4 system orders (at work) so If I can get Blown Chevy to reply it may happen soon.

03-01-08, 11:58 PM
I think the ceramic coating is a great idea but I would not reccomend Jet Hot - I've had my corvette headers coated twice by them and both times it's burned almost immediately.

03-02-08, 01:48 AM
I talked to his buddy Jeff and the indications are the only hangup is the adapter for the 90 mm throttle body.

I know someone has one for evaluation, so something is/was being done.

I will bug Jeff again next week if I remember.

03-02-08, 02:30 AM
Thanks Heavy, I appreciate it.

Going to bed now, I will be meeting Ernie at Infineon tomorrow morning.

03-02-08, 09:18 AM
Read/used Rick's B&B install in FAQ.
Did install all myself (~10 hrs including 1-2 hrs looking for dipstick tube hole).
Used Kooks gaskets.
Used stock exh man studs.
Did not get coating (wish I had); wires are all pulled out of the way.
Like to get plug wire sox for added security.
Have no interference with steering.
Have no leaks.
Have Rick's tune.

IMHO, whether you Kooks or B&B or even SW or TPIS, you MAY encounter some glitch along the way ... hopefully not. But, with hi-flo cats, you will really like the sound, and your customers won't mind (unless they're really old people, they sit in the back, you have an X-pipe, and go on a 500 mi road trip :D).

03-03-08, 10:36 AM
I've had headers on my car (kooks 1.75") for over ayear (about 25k miles). I go mine Jet Hot Coated, and had cool sox in the wires. I did burn one wire (passenger front wire). For whatever reason that wire is very close, or touches that particular primary. I do have a littlebit of blow by at the mainifold connection points. I have had no other real issues.

If I had it to do over again:

1) I'd still get Kooks. I think their design is very good.
2) I would not use the kooks gaskets, I'd use something else.
3) I would probabaly get some header studs. Inevitably there will be other issue up front that will require the headers to be loosened/removed (i.e. motor mounts, etc.). With studs, you just loosen the nuts, and let them hang. They also provide a bit better clamping force.
4) I'd run the headers by a machine shop to validate that the flanges are 100% dead even.
5) I would absolutely positively get them coated. They throw off a LOT of heat. Any way you can mitigate that is a good idea.
6) I would absoluttely also get Koolsox for your plug wires.
7) I would put some insulation around key wires/brake lines/started motor. Lunarx posted a bit ago about how to do this.
8) Swap out the spark plugs with some long lide plugs during the install. I wnet with NGK Iridiums. While it's not F-Body hard to swap the plugs, it is not something I'd want to do all that often. Might as well kill two birds with one stone.

Keep in mind that if you go the extra lengths to keep the system leak free and mitigate the heat they throw off, you will be MUCH better off in the long run. Finally, keep in mind that headers let you hear a lot more of the valve noise, beacause they are much thinner than the cast iron OEM's. Driving with the windows down, next to a jersey wall, you will hear a 'sewing machine' sound.


03-03-08, 10:22 PM
Thanks for all the "hints" this is one mod that I want to do, but don't want to be sorry. Not only do I need the headers and the HF cats but a 3" resonator too. Not just a few hundo for me. Any other ideas and experiences would help me and of course others looking into headers. What kind of header gaskets other than Percy dead soft are worth it? What about head stud brands?

03-03-08, 11:07 PM
May be in the market for an Escalade for the wifey by the end of the year.
I'm going to have to wait on the B&B headers until I clear that or until Rob get's bored with his set-up and offers some hand me downs! JK

Besides, my mechanic is gone, and I have no one to bail me out if I make a mistake.

03-03-08, 11:49 PM
Felpro makes a good gasket also.