: Engine Removal



srinne
02-25-08, 03:44 PM
Okay. I bought a 1998 Cadillac Catera with 89,000 miles for $600.00 about two weeks ago. It has been sitting in someone's driveway for 1.5 years without running. It was thought to have a blown head gasket.

Last weekend I drove it (it still drives...but very rough) into our small garage/shop. I plan on taking out the engine and either rebuilding it or putting in a 3.2L engine (CTS w/top end from catera).

I will try to take pictures so everyone can see how I am pulling the engine. I am going step by step with a GM repair manual. I'll try to post the directions from the manaul...my favorite step is #47..."remove automatic transmission". It sounds pretty easy:hmm:

Warez
02-25-08, 08:02 PM
Are you removing it from the top or from the bottom?

srinne
02-26-08, 09:13 AM
I will be removing it from the top. Here are some pictures of the progress so far.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3062.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3059.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3051.jpg

srinne
02-26-08, 09:17 AM
I did have trouble with diconnecting the "quick connects" on the fire wall....It was hard to reach. I ended up breaking off both "quick connect" plastic tabs. It would have been easier if I removed the cabin pollin filter first...I took a picture of it after the pollen filter was removed (and the access panel removed).
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3054.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3066.jpg

srinne
02-26-08, 09:25 AM
Hey Boris, (or anyone else that has removed an engine)
I am following the directions in the GM repair manual (1998)...Do I really need to remove the transmission? I'm hopeful that I can just unbolt it from the engine and not acutally drop it out. (it looks heavy for one person and no trans jack)

srinne
02-26-08, 09:38 AM
Sorry, I have one more question...

I broke off the two vaccum lines that plug into these holes...Do I have buy the whole black thing or can I just buy the black box? (what does it do anyway?)

srinne
03-15-08, 02:56 PM
I should have removed the transmission first....it would have been a lot easier.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3069.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3075.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3084.jpg

srinne
03-15-08, 02:57 PM
I put the engine on a stand and took a closer look at it.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3078.jpg

srinne
03-15-08, 03:00 PM
I decided to just rebuild this engine...it looks to be in pretty good shape. There was a lot of moisture towards the rear of the engine. There were leaks in the usuall spots (oil cooler, crossover, and rear coolant pipe)

Here is my helper!
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3081.jpg

srinne
03-15-08, 03:03 PM
I purchased a ton of gaskets from rockauto...later to find that I probably wont be using all of them. I started to dismantle the engine. I removed the whole top end and then I took the pass. side head off and the gasket looked clean. I also removed the oil cooler and prep for install.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3091.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3094.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3099.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3100.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3103.jpg

srinne
03-15-08, 03:05 PM
I wasn't sure on what RTV to use in this location. I ended up buying the mega blue stuff becuase it can come incontact with coolant and handle very high temps. After I installed it, I read that I should have bought the mega black RTV. (or GM part # 12345997)

I think it will hold? Does anyone have input on this?

srinne
03-15-08, 03:08 PM
Next, I started to work on the other side of the engine. I removed the driver's side head and inspected the head gasket. I noted that the gasket was damaged towards the rear of the engine. I suspect that it was damaged from the outside-in. In other words, I think the leaks from the crossover and oilcooler caused this damage.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3089.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3104.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3107.jpg

srinne
03-15-08, 03:11 PM
All cleaned up! I used the green scotch pads to clean and scrub the gasket surfaces. It worked very good but it did get green crumbs all over the engine.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3108.jpg

Also, I removed the thermostat. What a stupid design...you have to buy the entire thing to replace it. (pipe, t-stat, o-ring, etc)

srinne
03-15-08, 03:13 PM
In the last picture, you can also see how I bent the oil cooler lines. I wouldn't recommend doing this. It was a little easier for me because the engine was out of the car, but it is still a pita. I tried to remove the entire oil cooler lines, but I didn't have any crowfoot sockets...it was too tight of a place to get a wrench into.

srinne
03-15-08, 03:15 PM
Last night, I turned the engine over and replaced the oil pan gaskets. They were not leaking but I figured now would be a better time to do it. I bought the entire lower end conversion gasket set from rockauto. The only thing I used in this kit was the oil pan gaskets...does anyone want to buy the rest of them?
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3113.jpg
I also cleaned the bottom of the engine a little.

loddyjr2
03-17-08, 04:37 PM
Man I would have went with the 3.2. I got mine from LA put it in, in a weekend so much more torque. She runs so much better it really puts you in your seat now. I paid $1600 for a brand new engine from GM that was suppose to go into the 02 catera. I can give you the guys info if you want he bought about 100 of them when they dicided not to make the car in 02. Anyway I love the car now only have a few minor issues. Let me know how it went my total project cost me about 2100 with me installing it myself.

srinne
03-18-08, 11:36 AM
We debated using a 2003 CTS engine with 40K miles on it. The junk yard would have taken $850 for it....we thought that for half this price we could rebuild this engine. (I might have buyers' remorse after I get it installed)

Warez
03-19-08, 06:46 PM
Man I would have went with the 3.2. I got mine from LA put it in, in a weekend so much more torque. She runs so much better it really puts you in your seat now. I paid $1600 for a brand new engine from GM that was suppose to go into the 02 catera. I can give you the guys info if you want he bought about 100 of them when they dicided not to make the car in 02. Anyway I love the car now only have a few minor issues. Let me know how it went my total project cost me about 2100 with me installing it myself.

Was it from the seller on eBay?

I've seen a dyno either by you or some other owner who also did the 3.2 swap; oddly the power was identical to my 3.0 and also to another owner on this board with his 3.0. All power ratings were in the 18x RWHP range.

Warez
03-19-08, 06:49 PM
@shrine

Great thread!


Was it difficult to reach the bolts on the trans bell housing? Or any other issues with tight clearances for that matter?

srinne
03-19-08, 07:20 PM
The trans bolts were actually pretty easy to get to...if the car is lifted high enough. Laying your back, I can put both hands up and around the transmission (like I'm giving it a hug). There was plenty of room to move both hands around. (the cats/down pipes were removed).

Warez, I got your PM but I can't respond yet because I don't have 30 posts. I will take some high res pictures of the empty engine bay and post them this weekend.

In the mean time...here is one other picture that I have on my computer (it is low res)
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3087.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:51 AM
I put the driver's side head on:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3115.jpg

And then I installed the coil bracket and coil:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3116.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:52 AM
Next was the installation of the driver's side exhaust manifold:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3117.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:52 AM
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3119.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:53 AM
I also put the exhaust side cam back in and put new bearings on both cams (also, the t-stat is now installed):
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3120.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:55 AM
Next was getting ready for the Pass. Side of the engine:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3121.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:56 AM
putting the clean-up head back on, and using a bar to torque down the new head bolts:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3122.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:57 AM
I installed the exhaust side cam and put in new cam bearings/seal for this side too:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3124.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 10:59 AM
I assume that this is to vent the crankcase...the metal on this peice is very cheap. I checked it for cracks and didn't see any, so I put new RTV and installed it.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3126.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3125.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3127.jpg

srinne
03-21-08, 11:01 AM
Next was to install the exhaust manifold and heat shield:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3128.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3129.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3130.jpg

CateraMV6
03-21-08, 02:23 PM
Was it from the seller on eBay?

I've seen a dyno either by you or some other owner who also did the 3.2 swap; oddly the power was identical to my 3.0 and also to another owner on this board with his 3.0. All power ratings were in the 18x RWHP range.

I put mine through a dyno... 90K miles on it, 01 Sport with the longer newer intake manifold style... it put down 195RWHP@6500RPM and kept climbing, never dropped, also 205TQ@3600RPM and its just a 3.0L with the Steinmetz Exhaust and a KN filter and a synthetic lube...

That was on a roller dyno...

srinne
03-22-08, 11:34 AM
Next was the coolant intake tube (rear of engine):
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3131.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3132.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 11:35 AM
Yesterday, I got the timing belt ready to install:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3133.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3134.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 11:43 AM
I rented the timing tool belt kit from Tom Hunsaker (AutoTech Unlimted Dayton, Ohio). I only needed to rent it for a week, so this was the best price I could find. Besides the great price, they have also been great to deal with!

I purchased the timing belt, tensionors, and new bracket from rock auto. I've purchased a lot from rock auto...it made me start to think: This forum should put a GM parts list together. If anyone has a GM parts number PDF file, could you please email it to me. I'm looking for the labeled diagrams of the entire car and the GM parts numbers.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3135.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 11:51 AM
I installed the all the pulleys and then the belt. Before I removed the heads; I didn't put the crank at 60 before top dead center (BTDC). This made it very difficult to get the engine in the right position to time it. I ended up moving the crank very slow until it reached the proper timing marks--and then I moved each cam very slow until they lined up. I hope I didn't bend a valve doing this, I could see the cams move a little when the piston would come up and touch them. ( I think they are okay )

CAUTION: to whom ever does this in the future....make sure your crank is at 60 BTDC first!

http://www.gates.com/common/images/Gates/ezlit/interfer2.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3138.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 11:53 AM
Here are the timing marks:
(Since I have a 98 catera, I used the white lines on the belt)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3141.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3139.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3140.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 11:55 AM
Today, I have to make sure the tension is done right....anyone have any tips on this? (I'm going to follow the directions that cam with the belt, but any other helpful tips would be greatly appreciated)

frank moran
03-22-08, 03:14 PM
Today, I have to make sure the tension is done right....anyone have any tips on this? (I'm going to follow the directions that cam with the belt, but any other helpful tips would be greatly appreciated)

I have done it a few times, follow the instructions with the belt, it gets confusing. Keep this in mind, the tensioner is just that, the other two idlers are also tensioners but there role is to also move the cams left and right to get the correct setting when you put in your checking tool.....cams 1&2 you use the idler in the middle its attached to the tensioner ....cams 3-4 use the idler on the lower right....
some pointers.. cams 1-2 align to the left turn the idler CC, vice versa if they align to the right.....
3-4 (On the right side of the engine) if they align to the Left turn the lower idler CC vice versa if the align to the right.

START this process with 3 and 4.... do one at a time. You will have to roll it over a number of times...some fyi the 60 deg ref is a point where all pistons are down and won't hit the valves.... also you could have loosend up the cam hold down bolts letting the cams lift up.. I know you had the seals in etc....also did you put the cam caps down in the correct order???
if I can help let me know..frank

srinne
03-22-08, 09:55 PM
Frank, when I bolted the Cam Caps in, I put the right cap in the right spot. (they were labeled with numbers on the exhaust side of the Cap) But I didn't torque them in any certain order? I placed them in their proper spots, and then slightly turned each CamCap Bolt...working my way around the entire Camshaft until all the bolts were snug (but only tightening a little bit before going to the next bolt). Was I suppose to tighten a certain one first?

srinne
03-22-08, 09:58 PM
I got the belt aligned today. After reading Frank's advise, and then reading the directions again...it started to make more since. Here is a picture while adjusting Cam-3 and Cam-4:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3158.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 09:59 PM
Next was to adjust the top/middle pulley to get the correct alignment on Cam-1 and Cam-2.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3160.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 10:00 PM
I didn't have the special sized wrench so I used this set-up to adjust the belt:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3152.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 10:06 PM
A minimal difference in the belt tension will change the alignment--I couldn't have not done this right without this tool:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3161.jpg
You NEED all of these tools to do this job! (the special wrench would have made it easier, but not necessary)

srinne
03-22-08, 10:07 PM
I then put the timing cover back on:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3171.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 10:17 PM
After the timing belt was done. I decided to start working on the coolant bridge. After inspecting and cleaning up the bridge; I can understand why it leaks so often. There are too many connections in this area--top many possible areas for leaks. The banjo bolts (or what ever they are called) that hold the bridge on have a metal flange ring with seal on both the top and bottom of the bridge.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3166.jpg



I talked with the dealership earlier in the week about buying a seal kit for this area. They told me that I had to buy the entire coolant bridge with new seals. It was way too expensive, so I tried to make my own. I used some o-rings and cleaned the metal rings. Here you can see the old seal on the left and the new o-ring/metal seal on the right. (I'll let everyone know if this hold up after driving the car)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3163.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3162.jpg

srinne
03-22-08, 10:26 PM
Here it is installed:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3168.jpg

the size of the o-rings I used was R-10 (four of them...two on each side)

srinne
03-22-08, 10:30 PM
I bought a new Crankshaft Position Sensor and installed it along with a new oil filter.

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3170.jpg

CateraMV6
03-23-08, 03:23 AM
wow wait a second did this engine come with that type of oil filter or did you change something on it... because mine has aluminum cup and a small paper filter that locks in it... yours looks like the regular kind... I wonder which style filter is better... a lot of the exotic or more expensive cars seem to use the paper and cup style filters...

ariza034
03-23-08, 03:35 AM
catera uses two kind of filters the paper one that you are talking about and the normal filter... all i know the paper one is more expencive

frank moran
03-23-08, 01:14 PM
You did it correctly.. especially noting that the caps are marked, that was my point. Did you put some sealer under the front cam caps where the seal is mounted?just a dab where the cap mates to the head. The timing marks should line up even after many crank turns, the painted marks on the belt are the only things that should move. If there not aligning you may have to make a couple of more tweeks, your correct the right spanner would make it easier, the GM Kent Moore tool is the best for this job..$ I'm sure you did all this with the number one cyl. going to TDC?? just a double check comment.



Frank, when I bolted the Cam Caps in, I put the right cap in the right spot. (they were labeled with numbers on the exhaust side of the Cap) But I didn't torque them in any certain order? I placed them in their proper spots, and then slightly turned each CamCap Bolt...working my way around the entire Camshaft until all the bolts were snug (but only tightening a little bit before going to the next bolt). Was I suppose to tighten a certain one first?

srinne
03-23-08, 05:59 PM
CateraMV6...this is the oil filter that came with the car. I thought I read somewhere that you can buy some parts and change the paper filter to the regular filter (I tried to search for it, but I didn't have any luck)

Frank: I did put a dap of loc-tite towards the front of the first cam cap. When I torqued the cap down I could see it squeeze out a little. I noticed it ran out of the front of the cap; I was worried that it would run towards the rear of the cap and seal off the oil passage. (I looked very close and the sealant didn't go that far back)

Frank: I did make sure that it was the number 1 cyl. was at Top Dead Center. I knew that I would keep having nightmares of getting it all timed and then noticing that it was 180 degrees off. (or using the number 4 cyl instead of number 1 cyl) I made sure It was perfect before I put the timing cover back on!

frank moran
03-23-08, 07:58 PM
Sounds like you have it all under control, yes this engine will give you some nightmares, you don't screw up but once with cam timing on an interference engine. You say the first cam cap , I assume you did it for all 4 caps, if not you should do it, this is recommended to avoid any leaks. Another tip, I would put the serp belt tensioner on loosly with the front bolt, the bolt towards the rear, part of the wire harness is fastened to it, this can be a pita. While your wrestling with this, take a rubber band and hold the bolt in place while your hanging the harness on it, a 15mm deep well works well here. In my opinion this is not a real easy engine to work on once it's in the chassis.


=srinne;1456584]CateraMV6...this is the oil filter that came with the car. I thought I read somewhere that you can buy some parts and change the paper filter to the regular filter (I tried to search for it, but I didn't have any luck)

Frank: I did put a dap of loc-tite towards the front of the first cam cap. When I torqued the cap down I could see it squeeze out a little. I noticed it ran out of the front of the cap; I was worried that it would run towards the rear of the cap and seal off the oil passage. (I looked very close and the sealant didn't go that far back)

Frank: I did make sure that it was the number 1 cyl. was at Top Dead Center. I knew that I would keep having nightmares of getting it all timed and then noticing that it was 180 degrees off. (or using the number 4 cyl instead of number 1 cyl) I made sure It was perfect before I put the timing cover back on![/QUOTE]

srinne
03-23-08, 09:59 PM
Frank, I only put loc-tite on the front edge of the first cam-cap. I looked at the rest of the cam-caps and didn't see any residue from old loc-tite. There was a tunnel around them that helps oil get to the cam; I didn't want to seal this up.

I already installed the cam covers. I did put rtv on the front and rear of each cam cover before I installed them. Let me know if I should take off the cam covers and put loc-tite on the cam-caps.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3173.jpg

srinne
03-23-08, 10:01 PM
Here is the intake manifold installed:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3174.jpg

I found it easier to put the bolts in the manifold and then set it into place....the bolts are somewhat hard to get to if you try to put them in later.

srinne
03-23-08, 10:04 PM
I cleaned up the intake plenium and bolted this down to the manifold:

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3175.jpg

Here you can see one reason why most mechanics do not like to work on these engines. Here is a picture of the back side of the plenium. Look at all the coolant lines, wires, etc....I haven't even installed the wiring harness yet. (and this what it looks like out of the engine bay)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3176.jpg

frank moran
03-24-08, 09:18 AM
You wont want to hear this especially with engine all dressed out, but, I think you should put the sealer on the caps, the GM manual also recommends this. You dont cover the entire cap but the front section that the front seal will be encased in. You wont block any oil flow. If you dont, you may have a leak and ruin your belt job and have to do it again with the engine in the car.....you can reuse all your seals etc. Also use some non hardening formagasket, the old Permatx non hardning sealer. Also on the cam cover gaskets put a dab of rtv in each corner wherever the gasket has a 90 degree bend, its the corners where these things leak, eg at the rear of the cover gasket where it drops down into the head, the half moon portion corners... ..


Frank, I only put loc-tite on the front edge of the first cam-cap. I looked at the rest of the cam-caps and didn't see any residue from old loc-tite. There was a tunnel around them that helps oil get to the cam; I didn't want to seal this up.

I already installed the cam covers. I did put rtv on the front and rear of each cam cover before I installed them. Let me know if I should take off the cam covers and put loc-tite on the cam-caps.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/DSCN3173.jpg

srinne
03-24-08, 09:54 AM
Hey Frank, Just to make sure....I did put loc-tite in the blue areas (if you look hard enough you can see a slight amount of blue loc-tite dripping out in one of the circles. However, I did not put loctite in the yellow areas. Should I take it apart and put loc-tite in the yellow areas too? (I'm not sure how this area would cause it to leak oil??)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/camcap2.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/camcap.jpg

frank moran
03-24-08, 11:09 AM
Just in the area you have in blue, the front cam caps , however you need to do it on all 4 caps, front ones only ....where the cam seal is ...if you have already put them down with locktite that will do, otherwise use the non hardening Permatex...


Hey Frank, Just to make sure....I did put loc-tite in the blue areas (if you look hard enough you can see a slight amount of blue loc-tite dripping out in one of the circles. However, I did not put loctite in the yellow areas. Should I take it apart and put loc-tite in the yellow areas too? (I'm not sure how this area would cause it to leak oil??)

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/camcap2.jpg

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w141/scottrinne/camcap.jpg

srinne
03-24-08, 11:34 AM
Okay, you scared me....I did put sealant in all four front cam-caps when I put the new bearing/seals in. (I thought you meant "all four caps" for each camshaft)

srinne
03-24-08, 03:00 PM
I stopped by the autoparts store over my lunch break. I picked up some new spark plugs:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/prod_images/display/gpower.jpg

They were not the cheapest and not the most expensive...I think I paid under three dollars for each one. Has anyone had a bad experience with these? Also, all of the other brand name spark plugs said to gap at .040" and all the ngk spark plugs say to gap at .060". What should be the proper gap?

Logandiagnostic
03-25-08, 01:30 PM
It's strange to us too...

Only the Kent Moore J-42069 kit comes with the 30mm wrench. You gotta have it.

It can be done with the channel locks....but...much smoother job if you have the wrench.

All the other kits (snap on, baum as4145) the wrench is a 'associated tool.' In other words..another $58 bucks.

A Craftmans 30mm doesnt quite cut it. You need a deep 30mm offset wrench.

Our rental kits come with the 30mm wrench.

Great pictures!

Logan Diagnostic LLC
www.ledfix.com
www.airbagcrash.com
www.logandieselusa.com

Logandiagnostic
03-26-08, 02:02 AM
I should also add...

After the new belt is in..you need to rotate the crank 2-3 times to set the belt.

After 2-3 turns the proper tensioner adjustment 'mark' will often drop off requiring a readjustment.

This engine is out of the car. Pretty easy to recheck. In a FWD Saturn or Saab, the channelock pliers would be dead in the water.

I attached a pic of a 2003 Saturn VUE timing belt under way...much tighter conditions.

Logan Diagnostic LLC
www.ledfix.com
www.airbagcrash.com
www.logandieselusa.com

srinne
03-26-08, 09:30 AM
I should also add...

After the new belt is in..you need to rotate the crank 2-3 times to set the belt.

After 2-3 turns the proper tensioner adjustment 'mark' will often drop off requiring a readjustment.

This engine is out of the car. Pretty easy to recheck. In a FWD Saturn or Saab, the channelock pliers would be dead in the water.

I attached a pic of a 2003 Saturn VUE timing belt under way...much tighter conditions.

Logan Diagnostic LLC


I strongly agree with the special wrench:

If your engine is in the car--you would have a very hard time with channellocks. It was slightly difficult to hold it steady and tighten the inside nut--this was with the engine out! It took a couple times on each tensioner to get it right...because the channelocks would move each time. I wouldn't do it this way if your engine is still in your car!

68topls
04-06-08, 12:46 AM
i'm in a similar situation as you. I have a 98 with a blown engine. I would like to swap a 3.2 or 3.6 engine from a cts into the car instead of replacing with another 3.0. The first post you mention you were going to do a 3.2 swap with the 3.0 top end. Can you explain this swap? I assume it's straight forward and you just change the heads, intake, and throttle body.....is that correct?

srinne
04-07-08, 03:52 PM
i'm in a similar situation as you. I have a 98 with a blown engine. I would like to swap a 3.2 or 3.6 engine from a cts into the car instead of replacing with another 3.0. The first post you mention you were going to do a 3.2 swap with the 3.0 top end. Can you explain this swap? I assume it's straight forward and you just change the heads, intake, and throttle body.....is that correct?

The 3.2L block is almost identicle...I think the heads are pretty close too (same?). The main reason is the throttle body. I think cadillac changed that in 1999 (there for, you would have to use your 1998 ECM)

I don't know for sure, but I would assume the exhaust manifolds would need to swapped too.



The 3.6 swap could be done, but you would probably need the transmission that came from the CTS and the computer. (it would be a wiring nightmare) If you were going to do that, I would swap a 3800SC or a small block chevy instead--greater potential in the future (and the same amount of work)

Warez
04-08-08, 02:44 AM
i'm in a similar situation as you. I have a 98 with a blown engine. I would like to swap a 3.2 or 3.6 engine from a cts into the car instead of replacing with another 3.0. The first post you mention you were going to do a 3.2 swap with the 3.0 top end. Can you explain this swap? I assume it's straight forward and you just change the heads, intake, and throttle body.....is that correct?

The 3.6 is a completely different engine that shares nothing in common with the 3.0 and 3.2.

ijoe
05-13-08, 01:28 PM
Man I would have went with the 3.2. I got mine from LA put it in, in a weekend so much more torque. She runs so much better it really puts you in your seat now. I paid $1600 for a brand new engine from GM that was suppose to go into the 02 catera. I can give you the guys info if you want he bought about 100 of them when they dicided not to make the car in 02. Anyway I love the car now only have a few minor issues. Let me know how it went my total project cost me about 2100 with me installing it myself.
How much trouble was the 3.2 to put in? What parts did you have to chane and was the wiring the same ? Thanks for any help Joe

tateos
05-16-08, 11:40 PM
You wrote:

All cleaned up! I used the green scotch pads to clean and scrub the gasket surfaces. It worked very good but it did get green crumbs all over the engine.

Better look here:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/27507-scotchbrite-never.html

tateos
05-16-08, 11:53 PM
Excellent photo essay!

I just finished a head gasket repair job on a Northstar, and I gotta say setting the cam timing was SO easy compared to this engine - no special tools required - just have the crank and idler pulley line up like an old school V-8, and then put the chains on any which way, with the timing marks on each of the 4 cam drive gears straight up at 12:00 in relation to the cylinder head surface. I DID need a couple special tools for other aspects of the job, but I am surprised to see that overall, the Northstar actually looks simpler and easier to work on.

I'm not trying to criticize your engine - I'm just sayin'...

deere-acres
12-02-09, 09:46 PM
was this easier to pull the engine out the top, or would it be simpler to drop the subframe and the whole mess at once?

HoffmansCaddi
04-30-10, 07:37 PM
Did this car ever run again?

xanax06
06-14-10, 09:02 PM
SRINNE.
What happened? Inquiring minds wanna know.
Did the Scotchbrite ruin the engine?

elbrown4183
12-20-10, 12:43 AM
Well...Check this out. I have a 98 Catera. By the way. Even in its sickly, neglected condition, it drives wonderfully. It does need some engine work because the boner that owned it before did not care for it. I am intrigued by the idea of the 3.2 SWAP.

What engine is being mentioned? Are you saying I can pull my 3.0, and drop in a 3.2 slotted for the defunct 2002 Catera?

I would be interested in this. Please advise.

-Eric