Everyone please read, I must solve this problem by tomorrow!!!!

Back again with more complaints about my 2000 Deville base with 114k on it.

So my car has always had a lumpy idle... But it wasn't severe or anything, and after all of your input I have figured out that my plenum needs to be replaced as there is a leak.

But... 2 days ago I gave my whole engine bay a nice workover, making it look brand spankin new... Spent 4 hours detailing everything under the hood.

I got in it, started it, drove it through 4 intersections that I had to stop and wait at, then got on the freeway... Everything was fine this whole time, nothing out of the ordinary...

Then I got off the freeway about 6 miles later, slowed down to sit at the red light in traffic, and as I got down to about 10 mph I noticed my engine felt really weird. By the time I was at a complete stop I thought I had blown my engine. :(

It was sputtering, kicking, shaking, lumping, SO badly that I could visually SEE my car moving, while sitting still. I made it home and shut her off. Took a look around and nothing that I can see. I cleared my codes, because my CEL is constantly on (Still dont know how to fix that damn rear temp sensor circuit code), and then took it around the block, making sure I made all right hand turns so I would never have to come to a complete stop, in fear that my car would shut off.

It didn't set a code, so I just parked it and figured maybe I got some water somewhere, and Id give it a day to evaporate and drain or whatever...

So this morning, I go get in my car, starts right up, idles great!

Awesome!!!! Or... So I thought...

5 miles up the road, I notice it is back again, full force. So it 100% has to do with being at running temp.

I pulled the whole little thingy that has the spark plug solenoids or whatever on it (the part bolted to the top of the head), and there was condensation on the little prongs that went down into the spark plug holes.

I think this might do something like this, but then again, temp shouldnt affect that, as it ran GREAT when it was cold...?!

Oh, and when it came back today, the check engine light came back on, and flashed a few times, then stayed on, so I pulled over, pulled the codes, and they were the stupid rear temp range code (which I believe actually set the CEL), a code the dealer said was a "misfire", and the other they said the couldnt tell be, but the code was U1000

Anyways, to get on with it... What could this be, knowing that it is severely temp sensitive?

Just a sec...lemme move this to the FWD deVille section....

well it may not be temp sensitive but rather occuring in closed loop mode, a flashing check engine light is a severe engine misfire, so lets start with the basics, you cleaned the engine bay so there was most likely water involved? id pull the coils off of the valve covers, blow the spark plug tubes (with plugs in) and any plug i could get my hands on out with air to dry em out, clean any contacts that look corroded, and cover all electrical contacs and the boots for the spark plugs with dielectric grease, start it up and run it to closed loop and see if that takes care of it, also when is the last time it got a tune up? also check your fuel pressure relay, pull the vacuum libe off and see if fuel leaks out of the nipple, if it does, replace it

U1000 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction

You can look up codes here: http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

Your symptoms sound similar to a crankshaft position sensor failure (search on CKP) although I do not recall CKPs being temperature sensitive.

I apologize if I posted it in the wrong section... I could have sworn I clicked on the Deville section, but maybe I wasn't paying enough attention. lol

Yes, there was water involved. The car is in the body shop getting my rear bumper fixed (stupid UPS truck). They should call me this afternoon, but it might be tomorrow, and let me know when I can pick it up. When I do, I will do this and see what happens...

What is closed and open look as it pertains to my car? I'm a bit confused about that...

Anyone?

Bump for a desperate guy in dire need of answers quickly before his roadtrip tomorrow and possibly selling/trading the car!!!!
: x

Make sure there's not any water in the plugs, wires, or anything else. I had a very small bit of water in the distributor in a 5.0 mustang, it would idle so rough and would start missing after4000. Once I dried it off the idle was smooth and remained smooth up to 6500.

Wow!
Got new plugs, cleaned up the 2 coil-pack things that bolt on the motor, then baked them in the oven for an hour at 220 degrees to make sure they are dry inside and out.

Got new plugs, took the rubber boots and pulled the springs out, cleaned them, degreased them, baked the springs, dried the clean boots, used boot grease on allll of the connections thoroughly and put it all back together... My car has never run this good!!!!!

It's amazing!!! lol

The hesitation is gone, rough idle is gone, lurching is gone!!!

I also cleaned the throttle body really well, and tested my FPR per instructions on here but no fuel came out... I did notice once I got the small vacuum boot off of the FPR though that it was nearly 2 pieces... So I taped the hell out of it with electrical tape and put it back on...

Man my car purrs now...

It's up for sale and now I don't want to sell it!!! haha

Thanks for the tips guys!

glad to see it was just water in the ignition compnents, water can reak havoc if it gets in them small places :P

Update:
After driving the car for a little bit, I noticed it was still acting up, but not like it was a few days ago. Just the usual lumpy idle and whatnot, on and off hesitation, and the Lean bank codes were still showing their faces.

Got a killer deal on the 8 intake manifold seals and the Plenum between the intake and the throttle body ($89 out the door for those PLUS a front sway bar link all from a Cadi dealer) yesterday, so I got all that done... The plenum, low and behold, had a 3/4" long ~8mm wide slit in it on the bottom side where you just could NOT see. I also found 2 vacuum leaks, so those will be fixed today. I will post tonight and let you guys know how it runs...

Now I have replaced nearly every "notorious" part on this damn car. Anyone wanna buy it for $5750? I can't afford this thing anymore lol

Now I have replaced nearly every "notorious" part on this damn car. Anyone wanna buy it for $5750? I can't afford this thing anymore lol

Interested in a 99 STS with a Timex valve train in trade? Takes a licking and keepson ticking... :rant2: