: Kars Kit and New Rear



ahahnu
02-07-08, 06:53 PM
Hi,

It's my turn to get a new rear. It was installed about two weeks ago,and I plan to change the fluid at 500, 1000, and 2000 miles. My main questions is what's the consensus to put on the Kars kit again? I can feel it being as sloppy as the last one and I want to sure it up asap. I do agree with what Doug has said that it probibly leads to them lasting longer instead of failing quickly. I just want to make sure it is broken in before I do so.

So what do you think, how long before I put it on? And should I just but the bottom part and not connect it to the differential for a while?

Twitch
02-07-08, 07:16 PM
NO WAY! If your diff went, then the Kars don't work. You should cut your loses, n sell it cheap. Try to find some local sucker, so you wont have to deal with shipping.


Hey,,,,I just realized I'm not to far from you. :angel:

peter simov
02-07-08, 09:02 PM
got 300 + sh pm me

ahahnu
02-07-08, 09:46 PM
NOT SELLING.

My first diff was replaced under 20,000 miles, my last one at 68,000.

Twitch
02-07-08, 10:07 PM
Vultures on this forum :devil:

rand49er
02-07-08, 11:33 PM
Similar (but different) situation here.

Got just over 3k on a new diff installed by dealer last June. Did maggie install right after that in July, bought KARS in October, it got cold in Nov, so it's still sitting in garage.

Still debating on whether to put KARS on or not. Specter bushings have helped ... maybe enough, since I have not experienced wheelhop (though never dump clutch). For me, it's between giving the diff more longevity versus the added noise level the KARS will create.

Like you, I'm thinking about changing the diff fluid (albeit not as often as you plan to, but soon). Are you going to put the GM stuff in, or are you doing the Royal Purple?

Seattle CTS-V
02-08-08, 02:12 AM
Just put the KARS on the car. I don't really understand your thought process of waiting?? KARS = less wheelhop = less likely to shake differential into a seizure. And I really think you're going waaaay overboard on your fluid-changing there...but if you've got the time.

rand49er
02-08-08, 08:20 AM
Just put the KARS on the car. I don't really understand your thought process of waiting?? KARS = less wheelhop = less likely to shake differential into a seizure. And I really think you're going waaaay overboard on your fluid-changing there...but if you've got the time.Assuming no other considerations (e.g. noise, being wa-a-ay too cold, etc), I have to agree completely ...

... except the mincing-of-words part. :histeric:

Flyboy
02-08-08, 10:18 AM
Randy, I just got my new diff. I've got about 500 miles on it. I just received my "care package" from Amsoil. I ordered the gear lube and the little 4 ounce bottles of friction reducer. Some guy here on the forum a while back said he's been using Amsoil (with their additive) with great results. I'm gonna' change the fluid this afternoon. (It's warm here, dammit). Sorry. I also just received the bushings from Specter. I have the BMR pinion support. Will the bushings help with the "dreaded clunk."? ? I don't dump the clutch either. Think spring. It will be warm there prolly by mid June.
Seriously, miss all you Michigan V guys.

Seattle CTS-V
02-08-08, 03:10 PM
The Specter bushings stiffen up the cradle to reduce the wheelhop, no? The BMR pinion support gets rid of the clunk. At least it did for me.

rand49er
02-08-08, 03:29 PM
... Seriously, miss all you Michigan V guys.:lies:

Actually, we miss you, too, Jimmy. You being gone and Ryan's lease having run out, it's tough to get anybody together around here. Warm there? Here, too ... close to 28 deg today! Single digits this weekend. :rant2:

Hey, can you post (or PM me if it's a secret :shhh:) details about your Amsoil? Also, are you using GM's additive or an Amsoil one?

ahahnu
02-08-08, 04:17 PM
Rand,

I do put the Royal Purple in as so advised and highly praised. Plus I have halfa bottle at the shop I go to waiting for me. I haveyet to really try to do it myself and need one of those pumps to do it. I'd rather just wat until it gets warmer to try and mess with it for the first time. (Also I came home from the Super Bowl to some water in the finished basement) I as well am trying to rate the noise issue. I always wonder if you get some real thin rubber to go between thebar attatchment and the subframe would help.

rand49er
02-08-08, 04:59 PM
Yeah, I need one of those pump things ... probably pick one up within the month. Really feel like I need to change that fluid ... plus, it's sorta like chicken soup: it can't hurt.

Did my headers when it was 40 deg (I was so-o dang excited! :bouncy:), did the maggie when it was low 90s (drank tons of H2O). Heck, that's a good portion of the fun ... the planning, then the install ... as long as there's no frostbite or dehydration, go for it!

Say, did you locate that water problem? Leaky pipe, or is it coming through the walls?

ahahnu
02-08-08, 06:32 PM
No. It poured really hard while I was away and my next door neighbor down the hill from me said she had standing water against her foundation. I had the ins guy out today and he couldn't explain it either. Where the sump pump is, the hole is completely dry, where as the French drains are all wet. I just think the frozen ground, rushing water, had a combo effect. Thanks for asking.

While I was in Phoenix I did go to Bondurant and look at all the Vs there. They have like 20. I also got to meet Adrian Grenier (Vince from Entourage). He was doing a promo with I think the President of Cadillac.

CTSV05
02-08-08, 07:42 PM
Put the kit back on after your 500 mile break in.

Twitch, kiss My ass!

ahahnu
02-08-08, 08:45 PM
Put the kit back on after your 500 mile break in.

Twitch, kiss My ass!


Now that was the info I was looking for! Thanks Doug.

trukk
02-11-08, 01:29 PM
Put the kit back on after your 500 mile break in.

Twitch, kiss My ass!

Love my KARS III !!!

With people going off warranty, the demand is really starting to go up. Hopefully you can start production again at one point Doug.

-Chris

P.S. Twitch was taking about everyone trying to buy up used KARS III's with his comment. He wasn't slamming you :D It was more of a comment on overhwelming demand for your product.

ahahnu
02-12-08, 01:31 PM
I just had the diff fluid changed and the kit put back on. The mechanic said the self tapping screw holes in the subframe have become stripped because of ecessive removal and reinstallation of the kars kit. He put an oversized bolt in, and has a washer between the flat part of the kit and the subframe. For some reason I remember Doug doing the same when first installed. Doug can you recall if that happened or if thats normal for everyone? Anyolne else want to chime in and help? Has this happened to you, putting the washer to sure it up and make it snug? Thanks.

ahahnu
02-12-08, 01:32 PM
Oh and I only had driven two miles, but the instant feel of traction and cornering is noticeable. I missed this. Doug make some more.

C66 Racing
02-16-08, 02:59 PM
Hey, can you post (or PM me if it's a secret :shhh:) details about your Amsoil? Also, are you using GM's additive or an Amsoil one?

Sorry for the slow response. Been on the road all week picking up my Corvette which was in the shop for a rebuild after a wreck.

The AMSOIL gear lube for the CTS-V is actually the same fluid I've been using in my 02 Z06 on the track for years:
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/SVGPB.htm)

This fluid comes with friction modifier already in it and adding extra additive is not normally needed. I have never used extra additive in my Z06 and have never experienced diff chatter. I added this fluid to my 06 CTS-V last summer and did not use extra additive. The CTS-V does not chatter either.

For some reason the C6 Corvette seems to be very prone to diff chatter for my C6 customers I do recommend adding one bottle of AMSOIL Slip-Lock Differential Additive (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/ADAPB.htm). For any diff that experiences diff chatter, this additive should correct it.

As an FYI, I had my factory diff fluid analyzed when I drained it out. Results weren't pretty:
2006 Cadillac CTS-V Used Oil Analysis Factory Fill Differential Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/TestResults/CTS-V%20Differential%20UOA.htm)

Ordering info is in my sig, or feel free to PM with any questions.
:cheers:

rand49er
02-16-08, 05:04 PM
Sorry for the slow response. Been on the road all week picking up my Corvette which was in the shop for a rebuild after a wreck.

The AMSOIL gear lube for the CTS-V is actually the same fluid I've been using in my 02 Z06 on the track for years:
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/SVGPB.htm)

This fluid comes with friction modifier already in it and adding extra additive is not normally needed. I have never used extra additive in my Z06 and have never experienced diff chatter. I added this fluid to my 06 CTS-V last summer and did not use extra additive. The CTS-V does not chatter either.

For some reason the C6 Corvette seems to be very prone to diff chatter for my C6 customers I do recommend adding one bottle of AMSOIL Slip-Lock Differential Additive (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/ADAPB.htm). For any diff that experiences diff chatter, this additive should correct it.

As an FYI, I had my factory diff fluid analyzed when I drained it out. Results weren't pretty:
2006 Cadillac CTS-V Used Oil Analysis Factory Fill Differential Fluid (http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/TestResults/CTS-V%20Differential%20UOA.htm)

Ordering info is in my sig, or feel free to PM with any questions.
:cheers:Thanks for the Amsoil info, but Flyboy already got it to me. Thought the stuff was going to be expensive, but was very surprised it's not at all. :thumbsup:

Say, got a ques on your "Results weren't pretty" comment re the diff fluid. What in particular were you referring to? I see the iron was more than double the "average" ... is that the main point? Gotta ask, though, where was the "average" derived from? Is it adjusted for the number of miles? (10,636 mi isn't very much on a diff and if the "average" is based on, say, 100k mi then that much iron seems not pretty!)

Thanks, again.

JBCTSV
02-17-08, 04:31 PM
Hey Guys, Is KARS still in business? I am thinking about the anti wheel hop kit and they do not seem to be selling it right now?

SkullV
02-17-08, 04:32 PM
Hey Guys, Is KARS still in business? I am thinking about the anti wheel hop kit and they do not seem to be selling it right now?

Nope, and the chances of getting one used are next to none!

heavymetals
02-17-08, 04:44 PM
A year from now there is gonna be a group buy on a factory part(s) package some enterprising vendor is gonna put together. :yup:

I bet it's a bolt on to. :sneaky:

rand49er
02-17-08, 06:34 PM
Hey Guys, Is KARS still in business? I am thinking about the anti wheel hop kit and they do not seem to be selling it right now?Naf said he's gonna make one out of aluminum.



:food-snacking:

JBCTSV
02-18-08, 10:37 AM
Thanks for the update.

C66 Racing
02-18-08, 01:57 PM
Say, got a ques on your "Results weren't pretty" comment re the diff fluid. What in particular were you referring to? I see the iron was more than double the "average" ... is that the main point? Gotta ask, though, where was the "average" derived from? Is it adjusted for the number of miles? (10,636 mi isn't very much on a diff and if the "average" is based on, say, 100k mi then that much iron seems not pretty!)

Thanks, again.

The averages come from the lab (Blackstone). If you look farther down on the page of my results, I pasted their comments (which I cut and pasted below for you). They stated that the average for their lab for samples from this diff is 29,000 miles, so 10k miles is about a third of what the averages are based on and the wear is much higher than average. I based my personal comments primarily on what Blackstone said in the comments section of the sample results:

"We normally expect to see high wear in factory fill differential sample, though these levels are a little excessive, even for that. Iron was the dominant metal and shows some serious wear at steel parts. Chrome, iron, and nickel are all alloys in steel, and should read well below average considering the short oil run. Universal averages show normal wear levels after about 29,000 miles oil use. Copper, lead, and tin show poor wearing bronze parts like a bushing. Suggest having this oil changed out if you haven't do so already and resample in 5,000 miles."
:cheers: