In the past I've learned a lot on this forum, helped me fix up a '97 STS to very nice condition.

New problem:

very low refriderant, AC compressor off.

I've read some threads about this in the past, but can't find them anymore. Anyone care to explain the latest on this issue?

Can I replenish the refriderant with a kit? I thought there were two "sides" to the refriderant lines, and that there were some important things to avoid / get right.

I believe this is the first low refriderant problem the car has ever had.

means theres no refrigerant so to keep the compressor from seizing and throwing the belt it shuts it down
you have a leak somewhere as the refrigerant doesnt just dissapate
take it to have a leak test done...

You could get a charge kit at a big parts store, but as 2003 says, R134a doesn't just disappear. There may something more going on, but if this is the first time you've noticed the problem, have it professionally recharged. Yes, there is a high and low pressure side to the system, and you have to connect to the intake (low) side and charge gas only, no liquid. If you try to recharge it yourself there's always the possibility of an overcharge which can cause damage you don't want or need. A good Mom & Pop shop can do the job cheaper than some others.

I hate to disagree with My friend, Sub, but it is not uncommon to have to top off an 11 year old system (assuming it was not done recently). I would not hesitate to add a can of R134a. You can buy a kit at Walmart or such. You will have to clear the Low Refrigerant DTC first. The service ports are idiot proof (different sizes). I have always added the refrigerant as a liquid (can upside down). I find that it takes forever to do it as a gas. Just my $0.02

I hate to disagree with my friend, Sub, but it is not uncommon to have to top off an 11 year old system (assuming it was not done recently). I would not hesitate to add a can of R134a. You can buy a kit at Walmart or such. You will have to clear the Low Refrigerant DTC first. The service ports are idiot proof (different sizes). I have always added the refrigerant as a liquid (can upside down). I find that it takes forever to do it as a gas. Just my $0.02

Would not hurt to add gas first to drop pressure in can before turning it over. I usually add a lil bits of liquid and check the guage then add more till its OK. The recharge kit with the built in guage works well to tell you when you are cooling again. There is a leak and if you add and its throws the code again soon servicing will be the best route.

New compressor -- $1400

(with mine anyway...as I was driving it home from buying it on ebay...)

The main reason I said to charge (or top off) with gas vs liquid is to prevent the casual diy person, who probably doesn't have a refrigeration gauge set, from "slugging " the compressor with liquid refrigerant on a low pressure startup. As we all know, liquids are not compressible, so a freon slug will very likely cause mechanical damage.

A clever way to charge gas fairly quickly is to immerse the freon can in a saucepan of hot water. The temperature increase raises the pressure and boiloff rate yet still charges only gas.

Better safe than sorry.......my .02 :)

means theres no refrigerant so to keep the compressor from seizing and throwing the belt it shuts it down
you have a leak somewhere as the refrigerant doesnt just dissapate
take it to have a leak test done...

gee if that really worked on my 95 ETC my compressor would be alive:halo:

Stay away from those recharge kits.

First, often times you're not getting pure R-134a. but a combination of R-134a, leak sealer, seal conditioner, oil (usually the incorrect type), booster refrigerant, and who knows what the heck else.

Second, you cannot properly charge with simply a low side (suction) gauge - you need to monitor the discharge pressure.

Third, the system uses exactly 32.00 oz of R-134a, so the existing refrigerant should be recovered, and the correct charge weighed in.

Fourth, when you lose refrigerant, you usually use oil. I don't think the '97 used the Mitsubishi scroll, so you probably have the HD-6 or HR-6 compressor, so you'll need to add back some PAG-150 oil, or you risk running the compressor dry. Simply topping off without adding oil is a good way to seize up your compressor... and a firewall forward replacement of all A/C components... compressor, condenser, accumulator, and OT, plus a complete flush of everything else, lines, evaporator, etc.

Did your fan controls also stop working due to low refrigerant? I just replaced engines in the same year and model. I had to open the AC system to do all the work. Now the blower motor will not start. Does the computer shut down the blower motor with refrigerant lose?
Joe

Does the computer shut down the blower motor with refrigerant lose?
Nope.

2000 El Dawg ESC with just over 70,000 miles - yup low mileage, but my father-in-law owned the car for its first four years and didn't drive it. Anyway, as of today - air compressor GONE! 70,000 miles! Are you kidding me? I love my Eldorado, but the car is a wallet thinner. I'm in the shop every three months - and not just for oil changes. Sigh....

What usually happens (I speak through experience '97 ETC) is the front motor mount goes, the motor rocks, and that puts stress on the manifold/hose and a leak occurs. By this time, the compressor is pretty well worn and is throwing trash. What you probably need is a system flush, new compressor, manifold/hose, orifice tube, and condenser. The condenser is recommended because some of the compressor trash ends up clogging up some of the condenser tubes.

It's a pretty big job

i JUST REPLACE EVERYTHING FIREWALL FORWARD ON 94 DEVILLE. iNCLUDING A LOW PRESSURE SWITCH. nOW GET A AO12 CODE AND HAVE TO JUMP THE COMPRESSOR RELAY TO RUN THE CMPRESSOR. nICE AND COLD THEN BUT REDNECK TO OPEN HOOD AND PULL JUMPER WIRE IN TOWN.