: Electric Choke Hot Wire

05-12-04, 07:09 PM
I'm going to be installing a Edelbrock 1411 carb with an electric choke on my 69 Caddy hearse with a 472. My question is that it calls for a constant 12 volt source for the electric choke with the ignition on. Any suggestions on the best and easiest source to hook this lead to? Another question is how do the vacuum lines match up? If you go to the link I've provided there is a diagram (Fig. 2) that shows where to hook up the vacuum lines. I've got the power brake booster figured out, got the PCV, the ones I'm not sure of are the Timed vacuum port, EGR port, and carb bowl vent/recovery system. What goes to those. I'm sure the vacuum from my dist. goes to one. Which one? Timed Vacuum port I'm guessing but not sure. Also there is a vacuum line that was on the back of my old Q-jet and went to the tranny. Where does this one go? What about the vac line coming from my old A.I.R. unit. I suspect this isn't doing all that much and can be plugged off but once again not sure. I don't remove the A.I.R. unit (smog pump) because it is also the tensioner for the belt. The carb is on order and should be here Friday morning. Got everything cleaned up and ready to go but just wanted to get a jump start (that's punny) on the hook up procedure so when it gets here I can bolt her on with no problems. I've read in a few other threads of people that have installed these so if you could help I would greatly appreciate it. here's the link to the install instructions and diagram http://edelbrock.r-catalog.com/ImgVD/EDE/1400_Inst.pdf I know when you click on the link at the top it says the 1400 model 600 CFM carb but I'm installing the 1411 model 750 CFM carb. When you click on the install instructions for the 1411 those pop up. Must be the same install procedure for both. Thanks.

05-12-04, 11:44 PM
Ok that carb is a bit differen't from the 750. The large port in front in the center is for PCV, there is a hole for another large port in the back (could be blocked off or have a port sticking out) goes for the brake booster, and there are the two in front. I believe the right side is for non emission cars and on the left is for emission cars. That's what the book said if i remember correctly. Anyways use one of those and block off the other and T off a hose so you can plug in your distributor and tranny vacumm lines. A good lead for the positive for the choke is the positive terminal on the coil. Put it there.

05-13-04, 12:09 AM
Hey sasquatch, I removed my smog pump because it was locked up. I ran a belt from the crank to the waterpump no tensioner, its a bitch to get on but its working fine . If you do this make sure to take the coil wire of when you are having someone bump the motor over this will save a couple of fingers. I pluged the line with an old spark plug. One day I will make it look a little better , maybe a BILLIT SPARK PLUG .HA HA :coolgleam

05-13-04, 12:17 AM
I used the positive side of the kickdown switch for the choke. Its right there, +12v, and my switch didnt work anyway. With the small front vacuum ports, one is ported, one is constant. hook the constant one up tot he trans, the ported up to the distributor. also feel free to bypass that vacuum switch located on the drivers side head.

05-13-04, 05:32 AM
Ok we're getting closer. Can't hook the positive lead for the choke to the coil. In the diagram next to Fig 2 it clearly states to not hook it to alt. or coil. I was told by a local custom car builder this morning the same thing that MMNineInchNails said. Use the port front right looking at the carb or diagram there of. T it off and run 1 to the distributor and 1 to the tranny. Dave what do you think? Kickdown switch is a good idea but I still want it to work. I think I'll splice into the line somehow. That way I'll still have my kickdown.

05-13-04, 06:29 PM
Why does it say not to put it on the positive side of the coil? It works perfect and it wont drain the battery because it only works when the car is on or at accessorys.

05-13-04, 09:01 PM
What about the dash pot. Did you reinstall it? Any idea on the torque for the bolts that hold the adapter plate to the manifold? What about the torque for the nuts holdin the carb to the adapter plate? Directions just say to not over tighten.

05-15-04, 12:02 AM
Dash pot got ditched. The reason it says not to put it on the positive side of the coil, is factory, the coil does not get 12 volts. it goes through a ballast resistor, or resistor wire. The two wires from the switch are +12v and to the trans solenoid. There have been discussions on kickdowns before, you should be able to get some good advice by looking for that thread. To decide on the trans line, see what it is connected to now. Ported vacuum is only active when the throttle blades are opened. See if you get constant vacuum going to your trans. If so, put it on the non-ported side, and the distributor on the ported side. there is a valve which is located on the drivers side head with 3 hoses: ported from carb, constant manifold, and to distributor. Eliminate the manifold vacuum hose, and go right from the ported vacuum port on the carb to the distributor.

05-15-04, 06:53 AM
Hey Dave, I'm not sure what you mean when you say it is located on the head. I did trace the vacuum line from the manifold to a valve mounted on the firewall. There it has the manifold vac line coming in, and 2 lines coming out that go through the firewall drivers side and into the car. Then there is one coming out from the same hole in the fire wall and runs along the firewall to the passengers side and hooks into a big vac pot it looks like. Not sure what this does but I'm going to look it up in my shop manual. I tried the teeing of the egr port to the dist. and tranny. The tranny doesn't shift properly now. I beleive the modulator isn't getting the proper vacuum. I'm going to try it the way you suggested and see what happens. I'm also having trouble with the car "dieseling" or running on after turning the key off. Could this be part of my vac problem as well or does the carb need adjusting. As far as the install went, everything was pretty smooth no real problems. The hearse does have a lot better pickup but as I said it really winds out the gears before shifting. Don't think I'll ever get it to burn the tires but that's not what I'm after. Besides the gearing is probably set up for hauling as it is a hearse. Took your advice on the choke and hooked into the kickdown wire. When you posted that your kickdown was not working anyways did you mean that the switch was bad or that it wouldn't work with this carb. I had to remove mine because it was in the way of the throttle moving freely. Dash pot is gone. Thanks for your suggestions and advice it's very helpful and I really appreciate it.

05-15-04, 12:44 PM
The trans should not be on ported. For the advance, When I said manifold vacuum, I should have said a constant vacuum source. I think it did come off the carb somewhere, but it was not ported. I believe it might have been split off the secondaries dashpot line, along with the AIR pump. Now as for what to do with the air pump.... What I did with mine was pull the hose off that went to the heads, and scavenged the vacuum line for something else. It goes to the anti-backfire valve, which diverts the air to the atmosphere under high vacuum (IIRC). Wouldn't recommend leaving it disconnected. I thought it would divert to atmosphere all the time w/o vacuum, and was rewarded with a popped muffler. When I axed the AIR pump Line, I had one port on the carb to the trans, one to the distributor. Worked perfectly.