: Here it goes folk's,jumping in with both feet.



dan708
05-10-04, 01:31 PM
As I mentioned in an earlier post that I didn't have the time to do a full detail on my 87 Deville,I've decided,hell with it I'm going to make time. :)
I do however have a few question's that maybe you good folks could help me with. :hmm:

# 1 I'm going to start off with a good wash with Dawn soap then clay bar,now after I clay bar, do I,(or can I wash again with the Dawn)? Or move on to step # 2?
# 2 After the Clay bar job I want to apply a swirl remover/polish with an orbital,
which pad should I use for this process, cloth or foam?
# 3 After the polish /swirl remover is done, then I want to apply a good wax job(by orbital once again).Which pad is best for this job? cloth or foam?
I know alot of people have mentioned Zaino for the wax job,Is anything else comparable?? Meguirar's Medallion, Zymol,etc.etc.
# 4 I then want to concentrate on the plastic trim around the car,w/a product suitable for that job.
# 5 On the chrome parts,and also the wire hub caps (original) i plan on put on some good Metal(chrome polish).
Sorry, i got ahead of myself, for the vinal top,I have read in this forum that some people suggest Mop and Glow.
Now do you reccomend using this as a cleaner, and sealer?
Or do I use a vinal top cleaner first,then the Mop and Glow afterwards?
Also the car was undercoated,and the wheel weel undercoating has turned a Brownish,Blackish,Grey,is there anyway to give this a cleaner look? Armor All,etc.etc.
Or should I just get a few can's of undercoating and re-apply hoping that it will give it a cleaner blacker look(inside the wheel well's).
I think that's it,I should have no problem's w/the interior,
Lexol,cleaner,then conditioner for the seats,
Good shampooing of the carpeting,
Might try out the,Mirror Glaze & Rubber Cleaner /Coditioner 40 by Meguiar's for the dash and weather stripping.
Sorry for such a long post,I just want to make sure I have everything right before I undertake this job,(going to make it a 2 dayer) Outside 1 day, Inside the next.
I live in South east Michigan and I have Murray's,Pep Boys,and Auto Zone around here for me to get my materials,

If I have missed anything, or you can recommend some products that may,be better than the one's I mentioned,or you have some tip's to share that would help make this a smoother job, please feel free to let me know :)
Thanks again folk's
Dan

RBraczyk
05-10-04, 01:34 PM
You don't get any better products than mothers california gold. Swear by it.

Slick V
05-10-04, 09:16 PM
I cant help out to much with anything other then the vinyl top and possably the wheelwells. For the wheelwells, spray them down with simplegreen, let them set, then rinse, if that doesnt clean them up or darkin em, then your more then likly going to need to respray them. I dont know if youll want to follow this for the top, ive never talked to anyone who has even heard of this tecnique. Most of the build up on vinyl tops is a type of mold, normal washing wont get rid of it, this is what I have found to work best.
1st you wet the top with water.
2nd spray simplegreen (with about a 10part water to 1part solution mixture) on the top and scrub it with those green scrub pads, do this in sections and rinse.
3rd spray the top with bleach while it is still wet, let set for about 1 or 2 min. then rinse off and wash the car.

Ill recomend that this prosess is done in the shade. I have done this with both white and blue vinyl tops, made them both look new. If there is sunfade then you will need to get your top redyed. This is my advice so take it for what it is.

Subguy
05-11-04, 12:32 AM
Dan, I did real detailing in my youth and I still maintain a car that looks wet at all times.....you have alot of info i hope I can hit most but answer me first. Do you have any local detail shops that you know? There are professional products I can steer you too. How much money do you want to spend on chemicals, keep in mind they will last for many uses? What color is your car? Also you did say you lived in Michigan correct? When you run your hand across the top , hood and trunk does it feel slick or rough? How long has it been since the car had its last polish? What color is the vinyl top? Do you already own an orbital? Dan I can help just need to know this stuff.........alot of this is preference to products but there are definetly products I have had better experience than others? Lol ...I also own no stock or work for any car care companies:helpless: I will tell you I live in the harsh Florida sun and it is a constant battle to keep certain color vehicles from fading and peeling clear coat......be happy to help

dan708
05-11-04, 02:27 AM
Thank's for the reply's folk's.
Subguy,
I have found a couple detail shop's in my area, price's ranging from $135-$200 for both interior and exterior detailing.
The $200 quote included Clay bar.
If I was to do it myself I was thinking about dumping around $100 + on materials,(roughly),clay bar,polish,wax,baby diapers,polishing cloth's orbital pad's,etc.etc..Like you said in your post it should last for quite a few use's.
The car is white w/white vinal top,continental kit on back,Grey plastic trim on bumpers,wire hubcaps,white leather interior,black dash,and carpeting.(wish i new how to post a pic of the car) any help?
The paint does feel a lttle rough,that's why I decided on going the clay bar route,
I hate to admit it,but,the last wax and polish job it had was last August!! :crying2:
I also can get an orbital from my bro,with no problem,he use's it for his boat.
Hope that was enough info,if you need to know anymore let me know!
And thanks again.
Dan



Slick V I'll give the Simple Green a shot foe the wheel well's but I'm not to sure about the bleach part,but thanks for the tip bro!


RB,is the Mother's Gold a wax???

Subguy
05-11-04, 09:02 AM
The reason I asked about the detail shops is sometimes they will sell you some of the products...alot of the shops use Kar Kem products etc.......clay is the best way to to go to remove the grainy feel.....i use a product called Wet Coat to polish I do not paste wax, this is only my preference. The wet coat doesn't "bead like everyone like to see...it causes the water to "sheet", on the sides it beads. It has to be applied and then removed but should be allowed to "cure" at least 24 hours before washing it again......on the the flat sufaces you could apply twice if you wanted....using the orbital may be the easiest way to apply the polish, but not necessary I use my hands........if I am in a hurry I will use an orbital......do one section at a time..ie half of the trunk lid and then wipe with dry towel...thin coats....if you carry a toothbrush with you you can get the polish out of the little cracks and off the moldings while you are doing it so it doesnt leave that white haze. There is a professional product called wheel brite which is awesome for wire wheels as long as there is no coating on them....you spray it on the rims, if they are real dirty,using gloves and a sponge you can wipe the spokes,that may not be necessary, but immediately hose off, only do one wheel at a time and dont put on hot brakes. Interior.....scrub your leather with mild soap and water and constantly change rinse water...use a towel or sponge to scrub......there are good leather cleaners.....but generally soap and water are great same as your skin. While seats a re still damp apply leather conditioner...you willl use less product that way......Lexol is one of my favorites......apply thinly and give time to pentrate then buff the seats to remove the excess product if you leave residue it can feel sticky so wipe well....for your moldings many places sell a clear rubbber dressing(the detailers)............keep in mind good detail shops use good products which are real expensive sometimes they will split gallons etc.....send me e-mail for more if you have specifics