: Baffle Plat.. Bad design in older N*

05-10-04, 12:48 PM
Got the my 93 STS back from the dealership...my first dealings with the service dept and I was very pleased...and surprised...

The mechanic told me the baffle plate is the sorce of my oil leak and that it is a bad design in the older Northstars....he even showed me a 98 or 99 that has a small leak starting.

He made a comment that at some point in time they will all leak. Seemed a bold statement to me...And there is nothing maintenance wise you can do to prevent it from happening.

Question... is this true and if it gets fixed what are the odds it will leak again?

I was told min 25 hours of labor at 58.00 per hour plus parts would be looking at close to 2,500.

Does anyone know of any corrective measures to slow it down at the least?

Does all this ring true?


05-10-04, 03:32 PM
I would agree at least partially with the statement.

I have two 93 STS's and while they both seeped some from the oil manifold, it was more of an annoyance then any real fluid loss. The oil was seeping down the bolt threads then spreading all over.

If you want to try fixing it your self, you might try the following.

Remove a couple of oil pan bolts. Spray the bolt holes with a little spray brake cleaner to flush any oil out of the bolt holes. Wait a couple of minutes and repeat. Allow to dry a few minutes.

Spray the bolts with the spray brake cleaner allow to dry.

You can now coat the bolts with silicone sealer or my preference is plumbers pipe dope brushed on each bolt.

Using a 1/4" drive with a 10 mm socket, and a 10 mm flex socket, will help prevent you from overtightening the bolts. Screw the bolts back in and tighten snug. Do not overtighten. The oil manifold has a silicone seal on both sides of the aluminum plate and any extra tightening is wasted and can strip the bolt hole.

Proceed with the next couple of bolts until all of the bolts and bolt holes have been treated. Let the car set overnight (12 hrs or so) before starting the engine to give the sealer time to set and/or cure.

This will stop most seepage that I have seen.

05-11-04, 09:06 AM
Well I asked them at the shop about cleaning it up and RTVing it or doing anything in order to slow it down and they said I cany reach all the bolts unless the tranny is pulled....I can do some stuff but thats WAY past my level...

Thanks for the reply George will check into it hopefully it works to a degree...my leak is running about 1 to 1.5 q a week or so and the dam smell and smoke is getting old really quick.....

05-12-04, 08:18 AM
Using a 1/4" ratchet with a 6" extension and a 10 mm socket you can get almost all of them with ease. A 10 mm flex socket will make the job easier.

For a couple, it is necessary to remove the four bolts and plate that connect the engine and transaxle. Not a problem removing and replacing these bolts and plate; they are not under any load.

For the three bolts beneath the front cover end, use a 10 mm end wrench. It may help to the slightly raise the engine for clearance here. No need to remove any mounts, just raise about 3/8" to 1/2".

All in all not hard, just a little tedious as you need to be throrough on the cleaning process.

Removing the oil pan is another story, for that the transaxle and engine must be separated.