: Removing EGR on a'96 SLS

12-30-07, 05:39 PM
Can't figure out how to remove fuel rail (stainless steel recall) in order to remove the EGR valve. Can :shhh:anybody describe procedure?

12-30-07, 08:41 PM
Just follow the fuel rail and remove all the hold downs.

12-30-07, 09:55 PM
The hold downs are the same bolts that the nuts that hold the beauty cover thread into. They have a hex head about 20cm down from the end, so you will need a deep 10mm socket or an open, adjustable, or box wrench. A wrench is not a pain because they aren't so tight as to be a problem. One or two turns and you can hand thread them out. I'd really recommend a torque wrench, and you would best use one with a screwdriver style handle (can usually adjust to lower torque) and torque them down correctly. I believe spec is 9-14 in-lbs. If you can't handle that easily, just think of snug with a screwdriver, not tight. The manifold is made of thermoplastic (nylon #66, somewhat brittle) and is fairly easy to crack. I actually wonder how many "cracked" manifolds found during starter swaps are actually caused by mechanics not being careful or over tightening.

EDIT: Almost forgot... Have a set of the lower injector O Rings available! They are easy to break when removing and reinstalling, since lifting the fuel rail will pull them out, thereby allowing unthrottled and unmetered air into the engine. Needless to say, it will not run correctly. Use a bright light to watch each injector going back into place, and let the bolt tightening push them all the way in, alternating the flashlight between them.

12-31-07, 01:15 AM
Thank you Zorb 750 and Ranger. Just got this SLS and I got a P1406 code which says a bad EGR. Does it make sense to clean, or buy a replacement? Was told it cost a good buck to replace, but hate to do the labor for a never-ending sticky EGR valve.

12-31-07, 04:10 PM
Clean it. They rarely go bad. I think there is a tutorial in the Tech Tips section.

12-31-07, 11:46 PM
What happened to my post from this morning?!?!

I wrote a very detailed, very easy cleaning instruction! Will rewrite sometime in 2008.

01-01-08, 12:01 AM
I cleaned the EGR valve on my '97 once, and it never gave me a problem again. It's not that hard to do, so personally, I would clean it 3-4 times before I would buy a new one - I think they go for maybe around a couple hundred bucks

01-01-08, 12:56 AM
I will do the cleaning as soon as I get the new o-rings(good advice) to have for replacement. Always seem to break them when I move parts around on other repairs. And,tateos I really don't want to spend a couple of hundred bucks for nothing so clean it is!

01-01-08, 02:56 AM
Try cleaning first.
Pull the unit off and push in the round valve on the underside a bit. It will probably stick a little at the closed position. It will travel inward about a half an inch from being almost flush with the bottom of the flange. Push it about a quarter inch in from the bottom to see how badly it's sticking.

Put carburetor cleaner in a pan about 1/3 of an inch deep, put the EGR unit in there, flange down, connector up, let it soak like that for about 5 minutes.Take it out and use a stiff bristled brush (if wire, not too coarse a wire!) to clean the inside. Don't pour carb cleaner into the thing while it's upside down or spray it directly into the valve's body! Some carb cleaners will remove the insulation from the wires in the solenoid or position sensor causing shorting, incorrect operation, or false position readings. Using fine sandpaper or a good brush, push in the valve and clean where it engages. A round file works well, go around in circles without letting the file turn, and do not reciprocate the file (no in and out motion! Be careful not to score the valve bore!)

01-01-08, 05:09 PM
i just bent the tab up and out of the way on my 97 and my mom old 96

02-17-08, 02:14 PM
are you talking about the fuel line tab that is on the bolt for the egr?

02-17-08, 02:15 PM
im in the process of cleaning my dads 96 deville egr valve and dont want to mess anything up