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Radio quit working shows Code IRC U1000, please help.

11K views 28 replies 4 participants last post by  CadillacSTS42005 
#1 ·
2000 Caddy deville 55,000 miles never an issue with the radio and it decided to quit. Pulled the codes and it shows IRC U1000. Checked all the fuses and they are good to go. Disconnected the battery for 30 minutes. No help. When I turn on the ignition, I can turn on the radio and it will light up for three seconds and go dead only showing the time. Can the experts on Caddy.Com tell me what i need to do to get the radio working, please?
Could I swap out the cassette radio for a 2001 cassette/CD radio without any wiring or security issues?

Thanks,

Justin
 
#3 ·
Thank you for your reply. The last thing i wanted to do was carry the car to the dealership. I will pull all of the codes tomorrow and give you a report. I know enough about the new cars to be dangerous. You see I am so old I still have a set of feeler gages in my tool box. I taught auto mechanics back in the seventies when an ohm meter was high tech.
Thanks again for your help.

Justin
Charleston, SC
 
#4 ·
The only two codes current are........

IPM B0429

IRC U1000

No history shown on any codes. I ran the codes twice and cleared.
The radio will show power, no sound for three seconds then it goes off. Hit the on off, nothing. Turn the key off and back on, hit the on off it will power up for three seconds and then it goes off. No spaker static noise or any sound from the radio during that three seconds when it powers up. I can increase the volume and change the station during those three seconds but it makes no sound.

Thanks again for your help.

Justin,
Charleston, SC.
 
#7 ·
Justin, your radio is done, no matter how many times you ask. If you're going to pull the radio, pull it out and bring it in for repair and be done with it. I thought we went through this ad nauseam on another thread in ***************:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/126517-code-irc-u1000-no-power-stereo.html

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-deville-1985-2005-including-1985/126495-2000-caddy-radio-quit-help.html

Why are you bothering CadillacSTS2003 our resident Audio Advisor with simple stuff like this? Your radio is done, and needs repair or replacement. I only suggested coming over here if you were planning on upgrading the basic radio with Bose, CD changer, navigation, etc.

The radio could've been fixed and playing right now - not happening any other way.
 
#9 ·
I was trying to determine if the radio in fact needed replaced or the amp or both. Jim, I took your advice and posted on the Audio forum. I didn’t realize there was questions that could not be ask in fear of being a bother. I have always had polite professional help on this forum. I never thought a question would be beneath someone to answer. One of the objectives of forums is to educate those less knowledgeable and get professional advice not to be put down for asking a question. Share your knowledge not your attitude.
 
#11 ·
Sorry I haven't and it looks like it will be Monday before I can pull the radio to perform the test you suggested. Thank you for your suggestions on narrowing down the problem. What might be considered old hat to you is new technology to me. I have only worked on radios with a ground, hot wire and a fuse so forgive me for asking so many questions. Thank you for your help and understanding.

Best regards,

Justin
Charleston,SC
 
#12 ·
Attitude... what attitude??? I was pretty much the only one who responded to your multiple previous questions - in great detail I might add. This is really a simple issue that I thought was already answered. And come on, asking the same question of the Audio Advisor is kind of like asking a brain surgeon about the sniffles.

I know these vehicles can seem complicated, but just as you'd pull a radio from the older "ground, hot wire and a fuse" radio's you were familar with, this is basically the same thing. Auto mechanics has changed, yes, but not THAT much.

You've done everything right - pulled the codes, disconnected the battery... and you've still got no comm with the radio. I doubt the amp is the issue, since there aren't any U1000 codes on the amp. Deep down, I think you know the radio is done too... but it really shouldn't be a big expense. Try to find a radio shop that does flat rate. Besides, if the radio checks out, you'll only get hit with a diag charge.

I even gave you the potential issues of swapping radios, which you were considering. My main goal was helping you get this fixed as quickly, easily, and inexpensively as possible. That's why I've been insisting on repair of the existing radio.

You considered upgrading the radio, and I too am curious what options are with the existing harnesses, if any.

Good luck either way.
 
#13 ·
if the amp has gone bad think of it like an alt thats been so cooked it reverses polarity
with the amp cooked the hu powers on sends power and signal to the amp to turn on which the amp sends back as being shorted and shuts down the radio to prevent damage
could be amp or hu but as JJM said, im leaning towards radio replacement
the only thing i find EXTREAMLY odd is the fact you say you have an 00 with BOSE and all Bose radios from 98+ have had a single slot cd player, in 96-97 the BOSE radios only had cassette decks but in 98 that changed and all single slot cd players have external amps on Lacs....
as i said based on what you have told me, i would need that test to be completed before i can say amp or hu...
 
#14 ·
I pulled the radio. You are right it's a 3-5 minute job if you know what you are doing. Unfortunately I didn't. I was trying to pull half the dash when I noticed the clips holding in the radio. DUH!

It's not a Bose. This is a standard Delco with a cassette player. I assume the radio is toast. I located a single CD stereo out of a 2001 Deville, will this just plug in? Will the anti theft go off and prevent it from working? Can you recommend a simple single CD after market stereo that will clip in to replace mine?
Thanks for your help.

Best regards,
Justin
 
#17 ·
I hope I am not too late here,
you need to replace the amplifier.

When the car starts up, the radio looks for the amp, during this time you turn it on, it shows "home presets" or something then all of the sudden it goes to the clock, once this happens the radio will not turn again until the next key cycle where this will be repeated.
The radio cannot see the amplifier on the communication bus so it just gives up because it knows that without an amp it can't do anything.

The amplifier is behind the rear seat. I replace a lot of them for this concern. Sometimes a battery disconnect will fix it, sometimes not.

Oh but be sure to check the small connector with the big red and black wires before you condemn it. There are fuses that can blow that would take away power from the amp and cause the same symptoms.

Sorry I got here so late.
 
#20 ·
Well if EWill3rd says it's the amp, that's what it has to be. His analysis makes a lot sense too, plus he's got the wisdom guided by experience. My apologies.

The main reason I've been condemning the radio was I assumed Justin pulled the codes from the DIC, and if the amp was non responsive, it would've set at U1000 on the amp, since AMP codes are before IRC codes. But the AMP seems to pass, and IRC is instead coming up.

Of course, a Tech 2 scan would be ideal... then communication with the devices could truly be checked and various parameters commanded on the amp and radio from the tool. If a device can't be commanded with the Tech 2, then it's likely done - assuming proper power and wiring to the unit(s) of course. That's always the disadvantage with a DIC scan.

Between CadillacSTS2003 and EWill3rd, you've got THE top notch guys. Again, my apologies.
 
#22 ·
Can't believe you guys are so knowledgeable but in some cases that's how you put food on the table so it pays to know what you are doing, especially when you are doing flat rate. FYI, the local garages hourly rate here in Charleston is $85.00 per hour, dealer rate is $95.00. I will go to the dealer in a heartbeat. In most cases I will get a trained Cadillac tech who can diagnose the problem a lot quicker than the local corner garage. I also get a nationwide warranty. This from a guy that would never go to the dealer and pay dealer prices but the local garage has priced themselves out of business.

What you said makes sense and it's exactly what the radio is doing looking for the AMP when it can't find it she shuts down until the ignition is turned off and back on. Where is the amp, in the trunk or under the bench part of the rear seat? I have disconnected the battery from under the hood, let it set for thirty minutes and hooked it back up. Do I need to disconnect directly from the battery or will it accomplish the same under the hood? What's a fair price for an amp?
Thanks again for all of your help.

Best regards,
Justin
Charleston, SC
 
#26 ·
I have disconnected the battery from under the hood, let it set for thirty minutes and hooked it back up. Do I need to disconnect directly from the battery or will it accomplish the same under the hood? What's a fair price for an amp?
Thanks again for all of your help.

Best regards,
Justin
Charleston, SC
To answer my own question, Yes I needed to disconnect directly from the battery.
I pulled the rear seat bench, disconnected the battery before pulling the back of the seat. Just for S---& Giggles I reconnected the battery. Doing that reset the amp and the radio in now working. I should have disconnected the battery at the battery not just under the hood.
Thanks for all of your help. Sorry if I was a bother to anyone for what turned out to be a minor problem.

Best Regards,
Justin
Charleston, SC
 
#23 ·
A brand new Delco amp - GM #9387426 - goes for $430 list. Don't think you want to go that route. A good radio shop can repair amps also, or you might want to consider a boneyard for a used one, since I don't think there will TheftLock or programming issues with the amp (plug 'n play).

Please do the test CadillacSTS2003 recommends though - I'm dying to see what happens and what the radio does.

The amp is behind the rear seat back, towards the left. Can't miss it. After undoing the bolts on the seatback and seat belts (disable the SIR), you need to release 4 clips behind the seatback. I have a thin plastic scraper filed down smooth and wrapped with duct tape to prevent damaging the leather for this purpose... just slide the "home-made" tool down until you hit each clip and pull back.

Keep us posted how this works out... now I'm REALLY curious.
 
#25 ·
To access the amp I usually remove the rear seat back, it is on the left behind the seat as described above.
There should be a large red and black pair of wires on one end (depending on the year) as I stated before, make sure there is power and ground. I like to use a high current test lamp like an old high beam headlamp.
If it lights up you'll need to replace the amp.
You CAN access the amp by unhooking the 4 tabs accross the top of the back seat and tilting it forward, but, you have a lot more room and it is easier if you take the seat back out. No need to disconnect the seatbelts on the sides, but you do need to remove the 2 nuts that hold the anchors on for the buckles and the center seat belt. Then you can slide the outer belts around the seat. Removing the SIR fuse is a good idea. You can unhook the battery too, but remember before you test the power circuit that it is disconnected.

The amp is plug and play, a salvage one should work but match the part numbers. New ones are pricey.

When you reassemble it, make sure not to hook the seat down on top of your seat belts!
 
#27 ·
Justin,

Glad to hear it is working. You reset the logic in the amp, it may do it again someday.
Next time you'll know.
You are right you have to disconnect all the electrical. The audio system gets most power from the rear fuse block, not the front.
;)

Thanks for letting us know.
 
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