Hey guys, i'm new to this board and have been reading a lot of the threads where similar problems have been discussed, however i'm having a hard time understanding a few of them. I'll start out by explaining my situation.

Problem 1... My car was having some intermittent startup issues before it completely decided to not crank over anymore but before all the intermittent problems occured, when it would crank, it sounded pretty weak. The solenoid engages because i hear it click. Now how exactly does this starting system work? When i enter the key i hear the security clear beep, then i try to crank and i hear the solenoid engage, does the starter have an additional relay as to tell it that it's ok to enable itself? or does the soloenoid do all the talking for it, sort to speak?

Attempts to troubleshoot/resolve problem one:
Used battery Cleaner at possitive battery side post and terminal. (Noticed corrosion)
Used a multimeter to obtain a voltage readout at battery. (Read 12.1volts)
Tried a jumpstart *i know, bad idea* (Did nothing, still same solenoid click.)

One day i was at the airport waiting for my parents with the car off and hazard lights on and i saw some white smoke come through the top of the steering wheel cylinder cover. I immediately shut the hazards off but i dont know if this has anything to do with it?


Problem 2:
Below 1,000 rpm my car at (Idle) seems to shake a lil not all of the time, but it's very annoying. ... During problem one, i had the hood up turned the key and it started, before failing of course and i heard a POP sound..kind of like a backfire.. could this be the Fuel Pressure Regulator? I will be constantly checking this thread for any advice/help one can provide.. Thanks, Jaime

Problem 1... My car was having some intermittent startup issues before it completely decided to not crank over anymore but before all the intermittent problems occured, when it would crank, it sounded pretty weak.
Have your battery load tested. It may have a dead cell and show 12v, but fall flat on its face when you put a load on it. Also check the cables. Sometimes the corrosion will work its way under the insulation.

One day i was at the airport waiting for my parents with the car off and hazard lights on and i saw some white smoke come through the top of the steering wheel cylinder cover. I immediately shut the hazards off but i dont know if this has anything to do with it?
That is grease burning off of the contacts. Usually nothing to be concerned about, but could be a sign that the turn signal switch or flasher is going bad.

Problem 2:
Below 1,000 rpm my car at (Idle) seems to shake a lil not all of the time, but it's very annoying. ... During problem one, i had the hood up turned the key and it started, before failing of course and i heard a POP sound..kind of like a backfire.. could this be the Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Could be. Tech Tips section will tell you how to check it.

Ranger, wouldn't the jump start allow it to kick over then?


I'm really stumped.... if it is corrosion how can i test voltage going to the solenoid without the intake manifold removal?

Years ago you could jump start a dead battery. Todays cars are so dependant on battery voltage that I am not positive it would start with a jump as you are still going through a dead battery or one with a dead cell. The sure way to check is to remove it completly if you are having a problem.

You can't test voltage at the solenoid without removing the manifold.Just look closely at the cables. You should be able to see if corrosion got under the insulation.

Get a new battery and cables, like ranger said, the corrosion probably got under the insulation. When you get a new a battery get the most expensive one you can afford, there are a ton of electronics on these cars.

Misfit and Ranger are 100% correct - the acid gets under the insulation on the positive terminal and causes corrosion. If in doubt, dip the positive terminals in a cup filled with water and baking soda and watch the fizzing as the acid is neutralized.

It COULD be the solenoid on the starter (under the intake manifold), but I really think it is either the battery or the cables or both.

Richard Moore
Fountain Hills, AZ

thanks guys, i'm going to replace the battery tomorrow morning, my car is outside and we're expecting approximately 2-3 inches of snow here in Chicago, this should be fun.. As far as the cables, i did notice some corrosion under the insulation.... Where can i find replacement cables, outside the stealership that is...?

You can get new cables at any auto store. They actually aren't that hard to fit if you just buy universal ones. I would consider the cables more important than the bat, a new battery won't do too much good if it can't push the power out.

Ok, thanks...I'm going to go to autozone and buy the universal cables. I'll keep you guys updated.

After you replace the cable, do a little exploratory surgery and slice open the insulation. Then peel it back to see what the cable itself looks like and just how much corrosion was in there.

Hey Ranger,


Thanks for the help man, i'm glad that there are people out there willing to lend a helping type to others who are not that car savvy, you guys hit the nail right on the head... I did the following:

Went to autozone and purchased some splice adapters for the battery cables, it comes in 8 inch approximate lenght wich is what i had to cut off exactly to reach the cables, i was almost SOL, i thought i had cut way too much...There was A LOT of corrosion in between the cables...as i said, about 8 inches....Hopefully this will help anyone with a bad cables, Solenoid clicking problems. total cost for tools and cables came out to approximately 50 bucks... Thanks guys..I owe you guys one, if you are ever in the chicago area drinks are on me... Jaime