: Quickly replenish all the fluids in you car cheaply and easily



behind-bars
12-10-07, 03:53 PM
OK... I am going to preface this by saying that I know their is a correct procedure for all fluid maintenance. But what am about to suggest will work in a pinch, or if something prohibits you from using the "proper" method.

I bought a pump similar to this (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292136&cp=2568443.2568455.2629358.2631132&parentPage=family) at Wal-Mart for around $7. It isnt the best piece of equipment but it was the best I could do without waiting for a online order.
It has a long skinny tube that fits down the dipstick hole which will come in handy.

ENGINE OIL
I pumped out 4qts of oil and changed the filter then refilled the oil with fresh. I probably could have pumped out a bit more but I didnt have a container big enough to capture it all. I really wanted to do a oil change since it was a "new to me" car whose oil looked more like tar and was probably overfilled by atleast 1qt. I figure I got enough out for now and will change it again before 3000 miles anyway just to clean it up some.

The process wasnt too bad once the oil was warm since it pumps easier then when cool. I captured it straight into a empty coolant jug which has measurements on it so I know how much came out, thus about how much to replace. That isnt as critical for the oil since the dipstick makes it easy to tell how much to add. However the measurements come in handy with the next tip. Capacity on the 4.9 is about 5qts, I think I had closer to 6 in it though from the previous owner.

TRANSMISSION FLUID
On the 4.9 the Transmission capacity is 6qts. I quickly pumped out 4 quarts through the dipstick into a empty coolant bottle. I then used a funnel to refill 4 quarts. Again I didnt get all the old fluid out due to lack of space to store it, but atleast I have a majority of fresh fluid. I really didnt want to get all the fluid out at once because I heard that it can be bad for a transmission to go from bad, burnt fluid to totally clean. The process took about 15 minutes and cost me $9 for 4qts of fluid. I got cheap fluid since I plan to do it again in a few months anyway. The transmission fluid looks just like the engine oil, dark and smelled. The new fluid should be a welcome addition :bouncy: The "drawback" with the transmission is that I couldnt change the filter. However the new fluid should be beneficial and I plan to get a larger container and capture as much as possible then use better fluid to refill itin a few months once this fluid is dirtied from cleaning.

POWER STEERING
Just like the other just pop the cap off the power steering fluid reservoir and pump out what you can into a measured container, then add fresh fluid in its place.

COOLANT
I also tried to use it to pump coolant out of the radiator, but found the built in drain to be easier in my case, The drain was clogged which was what I originally bought the pump for. But after a few flushes the drain started working properly.


Again I know the above isnt the best methods to replace the respective fluids, But I was really wanting to get the majority of all the old fluids out. If I took a picture of the oil , transmission fluid , and power steering fluids next to each other you would not be able to tell the difference between the 3. Replacing all 3 fluids took less then 1 hour and cost me less then 30 Dollars for the pump and all the fluids. I can do this twice for about 60 Dollars and come out way ahead since shops charge about $50 to drain and replace transmission fluid, plus about 25-30 for a oil change. The main benefit of the pump is that it can all be done from the top and doesn't require the car to be lifted to remove the drain bolts.

Submariner409
12-10-07, 10:56 PM
If your engine oil "looked like tar" you would be well advised to quickly do a proper oil and filter change with the currently recommended oil for your engine, drive the snot out of it for a week and change it all again.

behind-bars
12-10-07, 11:29 PM
If your engine oil "looked like tar" you would be well advised to quickly do a proper oil and filter change with the currently recommended oil for your engine, drive the snot out of it for a week and change it all again.

Yeah, I plan to do another change real soon, this time making sure to get ALL the oil that I can out. I changed filters when I pumped it out, but just grabbed one of the cheaper filters. When i first test drove the car they said they just added oil to it, well after I got it home and checked the oil it was way past the fill mark so I know it had too much in it :helpless: The new oil is dark again so I know the next few oil changes will need to have short intervals to get it cleaned up. I dont mind changing the oil more frequently if I do it myself since the cost savings adds up. Cant believe I changed my own oil for just over $10 when most places now charge atleast $25 and usually short you a quart.

I plan to do a proper change on all the fluids eventually, but knew I needed to do something in the meantime and thats where the pump really made it easy.

Submariner409
12-11-07, 11:03 AM
I know the dipstick pump idea works: MANY MerCruiser GM marine engine packages actually have a threaded dipstick tube which accomodates a garden hose female connector. The dipstick tube goes all the way to the bottom of the oil pan. You pull the dipstick on a warm engine, hook the connector hose to your drill pump or vacuum tank, and 2 minutes later ALL the oil is out. Filters generally hang from an adaptor on the front or side of the engine, connected by high pressure hoses. Sure makes it easy to do oil/filter work, because there is usually NO way to get under the engine.

There are other variations, including a properly threaded hose barb instead of a drain plug, which is then Aeroquip hosed to a ball valve with hose fittings. Hook up the suction hose, open the valve, pump.

EcSTSatic
12-11-07, 04:34 PM
I used the exact same tool when I changed the gear oil in my TurboCoupe 5spd box. It worked great.
I'm all for letting gravity do the work whenever possible so that "sediment" is more likely to be removed.
As you said BB, this is not the correct way to change oil or trans fluid but it is better than nothing.

SkullV
12-18-07, 07:08 PM
If your engine oil "looked like tar" you would be well advised to quickly do a proper oil and filter change with the currently recommended oil for your engine, drive the snot out of it for a week and change it all again.

Add a quart of ATF to your old crankcase oil, run it for 10 min, change the oil. ATF is basically the same exact thing as commercial oil system cleaner. We used to use it all the time at the service shop that I worked at.

N0DIH
12-22-07, 01:00 AM
If excessively sludgy, drain all oil and refill with trans fluid, drive gently for a few miles, and then change oil and filter. Works wonders.