Please help, when car goes into drive the interior lights stay on. Also the locks do not lock when put into drive. The interior lights will shut off after car is turned off, after 10 minutes. After key turns engine off, whole system shuts off. There used to be a delay until the door is opened. Main concern is interior lights staying on while driving.

Go here, to the actual Fleetwood thread, and not here in the discussion lounge:

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1985-deville-fleetwood-1985/

moved
please post in the proper forum for your vehicle

Blown CCM fuse..... Just did one. I pulled the fuse and got just that condition.

Actually I had the same problem. Lights on while in drive. Locks not auto locking etc. Does your alarm go off when it is humid or rainy?

My problem was the lock cylinder retainer which has a two wire connnector. These are no longer available through the dealer, however, you can simply unhook the wire going to it and things will be.

A quick diagnosis: While the car is running, have someone shut all four doors, when the interior light goes out (after the offending door is shut) you'll find your problem.

Actually I had the same problem. Lights on while in drive. Locks not auto locking etc. Does your alarm go off when it is humid or rainy?

My problem was the lock cylinder retainer which has a two wire connnector. These are no longer available through the dealer, however, you can simply unhook the wire going to it and things will be.

A quick diagnosis: While the car is running, have someone shut all four doors, when the interior light goes out (after the offending door is shut) you'll find your problem.

Could you elaborate a little more on your solution. I am also confused on your diagnosis method. If the lights never go out why would the lights go off when the offending door is shut? My method was going to let the power saver eventually shut the lights off and then open doors to see which one DOES NOT turn the lights back on, the door wedges that work should turn them on, the broken one should leave the lights off... right?

N0DIH, where is this fuse you speak of, I would certainly hope this is my problem (easy solution), I have the same problems as the original poster.

It was either a loose connection or moisture/condensation shorting out the part. Slamming the door got rid of the problem.... then it would come back when (sometimes while driving or a door was shut OR there were damp conditions.) The lights should come on when the door was opened, that's not the issue. But for the lights to stay on with door closed, while the engine is running, that's where the problem exists

I went through all of the diagnostics in every system connected to the interior lights an the internittent alarm before coming across this


I suggested the "shutting of the door" method rather than pulling all of the door panels off and disconnecting the lock cylinder retainer.

The key is to have the car running, if the interior lights are on when the doors are closed, start with one door and work your way around..

The method allowed me to consistently tell which door to pull apart and disconnect the appropriate lock cylinder. If it didn't work, I would not have posted.

Bringing this back up...

My '95 has been in the shop for about a month now, being re-constructed after an accident. Today is wrap-up, with trim galore, etc. and I stopped by.

Also just found out when I did this that after repair with the new doors in place on one side, etc., they ran into the issue of the interior lights just staying on...and never turning off. Close all the doors, hit Lock, etc. and all the interior lights just stay on...apparently already killing a new battery, etc. when it wasn't noticed the first time and sat there all day and night recently.

I played with it today while it was still being assembled there, checked the doors, etc. and the lights come on as usual when a door is opened, are on when you close the door, stay on when I hit lock on the remote...and then sat there on still, all doors closed, for about 10 minutes.

That's apparently what the issue is now, as I was told too, that they stay on for about 10 minutes after everything is closed, locked, etc.

The shop guys couldn't figure it out, but were thinking fuse, relay, etc....what's that CCM fuse mentioned by N0DIH?

Interior light relay maybe?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1027415,parttype,3520

Really no clue about what all controls the interior lights, especially as far as doors coming off and when back on the lights glow first all day and then 10 extra minutes.

Sorry! I missed the question. The CCM fuse is in the block in the interior of the car on the left side of the dash. Me thinks it is the second to upper row, and 2nd or 3rd row from the rear of the car.

He was having some odd current draw while the car sat for a week and I traced it to that, so I yanked fuse and got that odd condition. Put fuse back, all was ok.

Could you elaborate a little more on your solution. I am also confused on your diagnosis method. If the lights never go out why would the lights go off when the offending door is shut? My method was going to let the power saver eventually shut the lights off and then open doors to see which one DOES NOT turn the lights back on, the door wedges that work should turn them on, the broken one should leave the lights off... right?

N0DIH, where is this fuse you speak of, I would certainly hope this is my problem (easy solution), I have the same problems as the original poster.

Hmm...I just yanked my D/Int Light fuse and killed my never off lights for now.

They think it might be something with the door removal/install and/or some tiny difference in something, but it's weird. Basically only go off, in my case, when the battery drain saver kicks in at 10 minutes, and kills all.

AFAIK there are only 2 ways to turn dome lights on:
1. Door Open
2. CCM(?) turning them on (you know the module that controls the stuff like lights and such)
3. Headlight control switch turns them on

The dome lights are always hot, +12v as long as the power control is left on (the 10 min timer), and the door switches ground the other side of the ckt turning the dome lights on.

Yeah, which is odd. Doors are all closed, etc., but the lights simply just stay on until the battery saver kicks everything off at 10 minutes.

Pulling the fuse still has them killed for now, and I put it back in to see if anything reset, but they just came back on and stayed for the 10 minutes again.

Essentially, the 2 passenger's side doors were off at different times and replaced by 2 '96 doors (don't think there is a difference, but never know), and after that was done and the wiring reconnected, it started. We've been looking at the service manual, etc. too, and will keep investigating. Very weird.

Are they on when the car is running and not running? In D and in P?

Yes, they're always on. Car off, and just having opened and closed the doors, they stay on until the 10 minutes (or there about) of the power kill.

Car on, driving, etc., they just stay on permanently--it was a fun drive home last night, with a bit of an interior show amongst the dark for everyone passing.

I pulled that D/Int Light fuse, so they don't ever come on, and at the same time--not sure if this also happened before or after--there's no Retained Accessory Power anymore either, when it say was on Run and then turned off without any doors opened. The second it's to off, so to is everything else like radio, etc. that used to kept going--maybe that's just tied in with the light's fuse?

Bringing this back up...

My '95 has been in the shop for about a month now, being re-constructed after an accident. Today is wrap-up, with trim galore, etc. and I stopped by.

Also just found out when I did this that after repair with the new doors in place on one side, etc., they ran into the issue of the interior lights just staying on...and never turning off. Close all the doors, hit Lock, etc. and all the interior lights just stay on...apparently already killing a new battery, etc. when it wasn't noticed the first time and sat there all day and night recently.

I played with it today while it was still being assembled there, checked the doors, etc. and the lights come on as usual when a door is opened, are on when you close the door, stay on when I hit lock on the remote...and then sat there on still, all doors closed, for about 10 minutes.

That's apparently what the issue is now, as I was told too, that they stay on for about 10 minutes after everything is closed, locked, etc.

The shop guys couldn't figure it out, but were thinking fuse, relay, etc....what's that CCM fuse mentioned by N0DIH?

See now you are experiencing EXACTLY what I am. The reason its shuts off after 10 minutes is due to a safety feature on the car that prevents them from draining the battery. I do not believe the problem is the fuse, but rather the actual door latch mechanisms themselves (on the door). I haven't had the opportunity to toy with it because mine has been in storage, but this is what I plan on doing to troubleshoot....

With all doors closed let the backup timer shut the lights off after 10 minutes and then open a door to see if the lights come back on. If the lights come back on then the door switch works because it has reset the backup timer and gone back into "normal" mode. If the lights remain off then that switch is bad... still do this for all doors, there may be more than one bad switch, experiment should take whatever the backup timer is set at X4.

Now if that experiment fails to yield results then I am going to try the reverse method of that... With all doors initially opened, let the backup timer kick the lights off and then systematically CLOSE the doors and find out which (good) ones reset the system...

If both experiments fail... its a fuse or wiring issue, more likely the fuse.

Yes, same thing, as I further described in subsequent posts--the battery saver just cuts everything off at 10 minutes.

Trying with all doors open, let the timer kick all off, and then go from there could be worthwhile.

Definitely think it has to be something screwed with a latch on those 2 new doors, which were from a '96, and that something just is not working with the latch systems/light switches on that side.

I at least, I think, have it narrowed down to those 2, which were the ones changed in my case.

Try out the experiment and let us know if it works! I don't admit GM errors often but this door latch system is a GM engineering FLAW. They should have carried over the push button system to these Cadillacs. However I will give GM credit as they are usually the first to attempt new and outlandish approaches to many aspects of their vehicles, some fail and some become superior... that is innovation! This system is one of their failures as it has become a common problem in these cars.

On the lock cylinder retainer, pull the plug that is attached.

On the lock cylinder retainer, pull the plug that is attached.

For trouble-shooting?

For trouble-shooting?

Yes, for what?

We've been perusing the service manual for a while, to see what's on what circuit, etc. and also see what the latches consist of.

On the other note...after thinking about it, I don't really see how the open door experiment will work. Doors open, the lights will still only go off when the power saver kicks in, so once that happens and I just close one, it will be power saver mode again until the lights go off with still more/another open. Won't really show anything...unless I'm not thinking correctly of how something actually functions.

On the other note...after thinking about it, I don't really see how the open door experiment will work. Doors open, the lights will still only go off when the power saver kicks in, so once that happens and I just close one, it will be power saver mode again until the lights go off with still more/another open. Won't really show anything...unless I'm not thinking correctly of how something actually functions.

Exactly... the bad door switch WILL NOT RESET the power saver because it doesn't work the good switches should reset the power saver... it is a little confusing.

For trouble-shooting?

YES!!! You've got nothing to lose at this point. The problem still exists right?
I ran into this problem all last summer, did the CCM diagnosis, still bought a new CCM (as a spare, since GM has a tendency to discontinue these items when needed) Problem still not solved. One day I slammed shut the passenger side door, the problem disappeared temporarily. I had the door panel apart, and after bumping into a couple of wires while the engine was running, I found the lock cylinder retainer connector to be the problem (hence my suggestion of slamming the door, it must loosen up moisture) It appears that the plug for this retainer is vertical and retains water and will corrode. When humid conditions exist in the door or if rain gets in below the window, or the humidity condenses at night and gets in the terminal and grounds it out causing the alarm to go off when the doors are locked at night.
The shop manual specifies tests for the CCM. If the test comes up with no failure, then the problem exists somewhere else. In looking at diagnosing other parts of the courtesy light system in the shop manual, it mentions mechanical failure and corrosion. The mini wedge switches are no longer available. Variations of it are still used in newer GM cars (but will not work with the 96 that I have) Also, there did not appear to much, if any corrosion on these two terminals on the mini wedge switch. You can pull the plugs and clean the terminals, if needed. In my previous post, I mentioned slamming the door to see which door the problem exists in as opposed to pulling the door panel. If the car is running, the CCM will disable the theft deterrent system, but the courtesy lights will be on as if the door is open.

If you pull both front door panels, get some dielectric grease on the two mini wedge switch connectors after cleaning the terminals (again, if needed) and while you are at it just disconnect the lock cylinder retainer plugs (you have to clean them anyways) Now shut your doors and start the car, are the lights off? This is about a 45 minute job for each door. Also, check your rear rollers for the window regulator, if they are oval, they will fail and cause window problems.

The lock cylinder retainer listed for about $25.00 it is no longer available. Since mine has been diconnected, my alarm does not go off at night, I do not have the courtesy lights on while driving and my retained accessory power works as opposed to shutting off with the ignition.

Were those doors you bought for the repair sitting outside? That could be the source of the moisture.. or even when the body shop put the car outside with the windows down. Goodluck!

LOL I never knew the door locks were supposed to lock when I go into drive, I have no trouble with the lights but are my locks suppose to auto lock, 94 fleetwood???

If so, what is the fix for just that?

thanks.

The locks lock in rive and (if applied) the parking brake releases.
Put it in park and the doors unlock

Mine must not work then, I never knew it was supposed to, has been that way sense I got the car lol.

Whats the fix.

body control computer handles that right?

Good information elk9300`...that should be useful.

In my case specifically, the doors used came off a '96 and I think sat out for a few days, but were covered.

The front door and it's latches were just directly bolted on, but the rear door shell & window components were used and then the old/original plate with latch & handle riveted to the inside transferred over from my old back door, because the inside door handle was removed from the new door.

I have the plate with latch, pulls, lock, etc. taken off the new door, which we've been looking at to figure out how the setup works.

Will try and get the door panel back off of one or both doors (easy), and play with things more from there as soon as I can, with the wires and latches.

body control computer handles that right?

N0DIH Yes the bodycontrol computer or CCM as its called in the Factory Service manual controls the lock in drive and release of the parking brake (the brake to shift light is also controlled by this) I know that my 96 controls this. You may want to check your owners manual to double check for previous years to see if the car locks when put into drive then run through the CCM tests as listed in the FSM. My CCM checked out fine and was not the culprit for the interior lights on while the engine was running and doors shut.
I believe the FSM has the diagram for the mini wedge switch/latch assembly. It is a little tricky to figure out, but not impossible. This is a discontinued part for our Cadillacs, even though non compatible variations still exist in newer GM cars. I don't think this is susceptable to failure unkess is has been damaged. If you have a spare, keep it, just in case. Before plugging in, use some dielectric grease.

The rears are way different than the front. I think that that there are 3 circuits and a ground for each of the front doors and 2 circuits and a gound for each of the rear doors.

So Cadydaddy: check your owners manual first to make sure that the doors lock and parking brake releases for your model year then run through the CCM test.

For Caddy cruiser. There are arms that "hook on" to various levers for the door lock mechanism. Make sure the latch/mini wedge switch assemblies are clean where the electrical connectors pug in first. I know that on the frons there is a long silver piece that runs alon the length of the door that needs to be removed before getting to the latch. The latch then is un bolted at the door edge where there are 3 fasteners. I am familiar wit hthe fronts than I am with the rear.You may need to reference the FSM for proper assembly. In any case, if your door panels are off, still check for that oval shaped "roller" in the rear of the window track assembly. Change it to a round one. It is only a couple dollars at the GM dealer and is listed on the Impala SS forum
Good luck and Merry Christmas/Happy New Year to all

BTW. Has anybody tried pulling the doorlock retainers plugs on the front doors?

Im having the same problem with my interior lights. My doors also stopped locking when I put the car in drive. When Im driving if i push the brake my doors will look. What could this be??

YES!!! You've got nothing to lose at this point. The problem still exists right?
I ran into this problem all last summer, did the CCM diagnosis, still bought a new CCM (as a spare, since GM has a tendency to discontinue these items when needed) Problem still not solved. One day I slammed shut the passenger side door, the problem disappeared temporarily. I had the door panel apart, and after bumping into a couple of wires while the engine was running, I found the lock cylinder retainer connector to be the problem (hence my suggestion of slamming the door, it must loosen up moisture) It appears that the plug for this retainer is vertical and retains water and will corrode. When humid conditions exist in the door or if rain gets in below the window, or the humidity condenses at night and gets in the terminal and grounds it out causing the alarm to go off when the doors are locked at night.
The shop manual specifies tests for the CCM. If the test comes up with no failure, then the problem exists somewhere else. In looking at diagnosing other parts of the courtesy light system in the shop manual, it mentions mechanical failure and corrosion. The mini wedge switches are no longer available. Variations of it are still used in newer GM cars (but will not work with the 96 that I have) Also, there did not appear to much, if any corrosion on these two terminals on the mini wedge switch. You can pull the plugs and clean the terminals, if needed. In my previous post, I mentioned slamming the door to see which door the problem exists in as opposed to pulling the door panel. If the car is running, the CCM will disable the theft deterrent system, but the courtesy lights will be on as if the door is open.

If you pull both front door panels, get some dielectric grease on the two mini wedge switch connectors after cleaning the terminals (again, if needed) and while you are at it just disconnect the lock cylinder retainer plugs (you have to clean them anyways) Now shut your doors and start the car, are the lights off? This is about a 45 minute job for each door. Also, check your rear rollers for the window regulator, if they are oval, they will fail and cause window problems.

The lock cylinder retainer listed for about $25.00 it is no longer available. Since mine has been diconnected, my alarm does not go off at night, I do not have the courtesy lights on while driving and my retained accessory power works as opposed to shutting off with the ignition.

my dome lights are doing the exact same thing and my alarm will go off suddenly. it is getting horrible!!! i'm having to jump my battery alot. If I remove the door panel and unplug the lock cylinder retainer plugs and leave them unplug will this solve the problem???? what will be affected by keepng this plug unplugged? were exactly is this plug at behind the panel? is this in all four doors? I have a 94 FWB
thanx

The item that I unplugged is the wiring connected to the lock cylinder (front doors). How I found it was when I shut the front passenger side door and the problem went away (temporarily). When it rained, the connector must have shorted and my alarm would go off again, then the lights would go on when in drive. It has been almost a year and no problems. I haven't noticed any problems. My alarm system does work, just not going off at random. I think that this is some type of redundant switch for the alarm controls.

I've still had NO time to play with this since getting the car back in December, and after 4 months of no interior lights, I think it will be odd if and when I get things corrected, hah. I think what bothered me more, since pulling the fuse, is loosing the retained accessory power.

I'm thinking front door, since the latch, etc. on that one was all directly from the '96 parts car and my back door just used the shell and they transferred over my existing door's latch assembly.

Have to try the lock cylinder wire and then check out the switches...if I ever get around to it. Big if, but possible.